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I know Engenius has a 4x4 Wifi 6 AP with a 2.5g port. I've had it on my radar for when I finally switch off of my AC Lite, but I don't think my Brocade switches have the ability to negotiate anything other than 1g/10g on their SFP+ ports.
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Jan 25, 2021 00:02
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Hi network gurus, I need your help. I have a home office downstairs that gets poor wifi signal and I'd really like to be able to have a wired connection. I've tried wifi extenders but that just made the connection too slow. PoE won't work because the downstairs is on a separate fuse box. I can't run cable through the walls (rental) and we can't really move the router downstairs, as we'd then have poor connection upstairs, where we spend most of our time. I learned about MoCA and it seems like the best solution. I have a coax outlet in the office and I had a tech activate it last week, so I know it's working. I bought a pair of Actiontec ECB6250 adapters and followed the instructions setting them up but was plagued by a series of problems. The set up looks like this:  Upstairs is the main cable TV box and a Hitron CGNM-2250 cable model router, provided by the ISP. I don't have a three-way splitter, so I had to use two sets of splitters upstairs to pass cable to the tv and router. The existing splitters are fairly new. Not pictured is an amplifier(?) plugged into one of the other coax outlets in the house. The adapters paired with each other with no problems, but when I tried to connect my PC, I have no internet connection. I'm clearly part of the network and can access the router's settings at 192.168.0.1 Then my PC stopped being able to connect to the WiFi, then wifi dropped for other devices in the house. I tried plugging my laptop in and got an internet connection with excellent speed, but then it disconnected and wouldn't reconnect. I tried asking my ISP for advice, but they've never heard of MoCA adapters and were less than helpful. They did say that there should be no special DNS settings; if it were just a long ethernet cable it should just be plug and play. Has anyone had similar issues? I don't want to inadvertently muck up the connections for everything else. I'm really disappointed as I thought I'd hit upon a good solution.
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Jan 25, 2021 00:28
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Ruckus has the R650 which has a 2.5Gbps uplink port, and the R850 which has a 5Gbps uplink.
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Jan 25, 2021 00:41
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Grumio, I use MoCa but I've never seen anything like that. It's very weird that using MoCa would keep devices from connecting to WiFi. Do they connect and complain they can't access the internet, or fail to connect altogether?
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Jan 25, 2021 05:20
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Zorak of Michigan posted:Grumio, I use MoCa but I've never seen anything like that. It's very weird that using MoCa would keep devices from connecting to WiFi. Do they connect and complain they can't access the internet, or fail to connect altogether? They'd connect, but had no internet access. It worked for the laptop for ~5 minutes before losing connection and then failing to reestablish. The ethernet connection also had the same name as the WiFi SSID, which seems strange.
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Jan 25, 2021 07:08
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Grumio posted:They'd connect, but had no internet access. It worked for the laptop for ~5 minutes before losing connection and then failing to reestablish. The ethernet connection also had the same name as the WiFi SSID, which seems strange. Hmmm. I'd wager something is causing a broadcast storm or there's an accidental loop somewhere (the laptop connecting then disconnecting is similar to an issue we had with our network recently - it was a loop or storm). Looking at the diagram, could you switch the adapter and wifi/router positions in the chain and see what happens?
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Jan 25, 2021 17:02
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Grumio did you install a filter on your incoming cable connection?
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Jan 25, 2021 17:29
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BonoMan posted:Hmmm. I'd wager something is causing a broadcast storm or there's an accidental loop somewhere (the laptop connecting then disconnecting is similar to an issue we had with our network recently - it was a loop or storm). Looking at the diagram, could you switch the adapter and wifi/router positions in the chain and see what happens? I'll try this, or buy a three-way splitter and try that withoutclass posted:Grumio did you install a filter on your incoming cable connection? When the tech activated the downstairs outlet, I looked and there's already a filter on the incoming connection. Do I need a different kind?
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Jan 25, 2021 17:54
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Grumio posted:When the tech activated the downstairs outlet, I looked and there's already a filter on the incoming connection. Do I need a different kind? I'm not sure, it's been awhile since I had any MoCA going on. Of particular interest may be this amazon comment I found https://smile.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R3B2OLY6B2LT9T/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B079LY8CPF Amazon" posted:
Maybe this applies to you? You could probably contact the ISP and they would have info on what type of filters you may need too. Edit: fixed typo withoutclass fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Jan 25, 2021 |
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Jan 25, 2021 18:01
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I hadn't heard that DOCSIS 3.1 interfered with MoCa, that's a good tip. My own thought is to give your splitters the side eye. They might be reducing the signal so much that your modem isn't getting a good connection to the ISP. I'm with Bonoman. Swapping the modem and adapter is a good suggestion.
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Jan 25, 2021 20:39
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Is Cat8 cabling a real thing? I need to run a cable about 50’ total along a baseboard up a wall and then back around to the other side of that same wall. I’m seeing flat sided Cat8 cabling available on Amazon that looks like it might be nice for this sort of thing but I have no personal experience with it. Would I be better off with regular old tubular Cat6 and a few T25 staples to keep it in place?
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Jan 26, 2021 05:35
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It's a real thing but so is flat cat6/cat6a. Check out Monoprice slimrun.
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Jan 26, 2021 06:00
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Happy Pizza Guy posted:Is Cat8 cabling a real thing? I need to run a cable about 50’ total along a baseboard up a wall and then back around to the other side of that same wall. I’m seeing flat sided Cat8 cabling available on Amazon that looks like it might be nice for this sort of thing but I have no personal experience with it. The flat cat6 cables I pump in here come with appropriate staples right in the bag. 100ft run and terminate it into a barrel connector or clip the ends and punch it into a keystone. Unless you are literally wrapping it around your Van de Graaf generator and then a 20 year old audibly buzzing fluorescent light ballast don't worry about the hype, especially not at 16 meter run lengths. (out of 100m.)
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Jan 26, 2021 06:06
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I just upgraded home service to 1Gbps. Spectrum sent me a new modem and it works ok. I measured ~850Mbps when connected directly to the model via ethernet. We use Orbi RBR50 mesh for wifi, and once i connect the Orbi, speed through that device is more like ~80Mbps. I've measured this both connected wirelessly to the Orbi as well as a wired connection to the Orbi. I've used the Netgear app, but the only thing I can see to do is to update the devices to the latest firmware, which I've done. I don't have much IT knowledge at all. Hopefully this is a dumb question easily solved?
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Jan 26, 2021 22:00
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Proust Malone posted:I just upgraded home service to 1Gbps. Spectrum sent me a new modem and it works ok. I measured ~850Mbps when connected directly to the model via ethernet. We use Orbi RBR50 mesh for wifi, and once i connect the Orbi, speed through that device is more like ~80Mbps. I've measured this both connected wirelessly to the Orbi as well as a wired connection to the Orbi. I've used the Netgear app, but the only thing I can see to do is to update the devices to the latest firmware, which I've done. If you're getting poo poo wired speeds, something is certainly not right. Is the unit that Spectrum gave you a modem only (only has one ethernet port out), or is it a combo modem/router (4+ ethernet ports)? Do you have another cable you could use to connect the Orbi to the unit? ~80Mbps wired sounds a lot like it's negotiating down to a 100Mbps link, rather than the 1Gb it should be.
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Jan 26, 2021 22:48
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DrDork posted:If you're getting poo poo wired speeds, something is certainly not right. Is the unit that Spectrum gave you a modem only (only has one ethernet port out), or is it a combo modem/router (4+ ethernet ports)? Single Ethernet port out. I followed your suggestion and replaced the cable connecting the modem to the router and got a significant improvement. I’m now getting ~200Mbps both on the wired connection as well as wirelessly. Still significantly slower than the 850 I got coming straight out of the cable modem. To limit variables i replaced the cable with the same one I used when I was going straight from the modem. Anything else I should try?
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Jan 27, 2021 01:25
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Proust Malone posted:Anything else I should try? A change like that makes me think either a bad cable (do you have two known-good ones so you can mark that off the list when doing a wired setup?), or a bad/failing port on the Orbi. Does it change if you use a different port on it? Maybe see if you can look at the port with a flashlight and see if there are any bent pins or dust/crud on them?
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Jan 27, 2021 01:54
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Rexxed posted:You want what's called a wireless access point. Repeaters or bridges aren't quite the right thing. The thread is pretty fond of the Ubiquiti unifi WAPs. You may only need one but possibly two depending on the size of your house. I'm fond of the Ubiquiti UniFi AC Lite for being like $70-80 and good quality. The NanoHD is also good. If you have crazy thick walls or something they make some "one in each room" style ones but it's likely overkill for your situation. Thanks for this BTW. Bought a cheapo TPlink 2.4Ghz WAP and it works. Get approx 80mbs in the same room (and 50 downstairs from it) which is fine for my needs. I ended up not going with a wall mount, the one I got looks more like a small router with a single ethernet port. Nowhere close to the 450mbps it advertises, but that's OK.... but absolutely miles better than the lovely wireless extension thing I was using before. I tried the wifi analyzer and it's on a good channel, so I'll probably just leave it as is. https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-450Mb...11&rps=1&sr=8-9 e: I noticed there is a fairly recent firmware update for it. I'll try that and see what it does. ee: Maybe a bit? Doing ~92mbs now on the desktop which is about 8' away from the antenna of the wap. slidebite fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Jan 27, 2021 |
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Jan 27, 2021 05:37
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I think I am using the exact same one, bought it for like 10$ from Amazon warehouse and works great for my sunroom, mainly for a roku tv and cell phones, so don't needs anything crazy.
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Jan 27, 2021 06:12
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Comcast's Jan 5th date for my Gigabit Pro fiber install quickly became Feb 5th. I'm not quite holding out hope that this new date will be hit but I'm preparing regardless. In related news, I had to manually set 1G speeds on SFP+ ports on my US-16-XG to get 1G links up, both between it and my EdgeRouter and it and my USW-16-POE. I had to do this over the Serial port since it couldn't be adopted without those links. Now it fails to adopt with an error, perhaps from the manual changes...? My current EdgeRouter has an SFP+ that I'm using for LAN now (formerly @1G on my USW-16-POE, which auto-negotiates fine). In my new setup, a 10G SFP+ from my Supermicro pfsense box will connect to the USW-16-POE, with (ideally) 2x bonded SFP+ uplinks to the 16-POE for all the gigabit hosts in the house. A few 10G hosts and an XG-6POE upstairs will also connect to the 16-XG. I'd like to get this all set up so that I can just swap the LAN SFP+ from my (RCN-->EdgeRouter) router to my (Comcast-->pfsense) router on install day, but now things are complicated!
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Jan 27, 2021 06:34
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For the Ubiquiti EdgeRouters, is it still recommended to stay away from the 2.0.x versions, or have they fixed things?
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Jan 27, 2021 13:04
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2.0.9 seems to have fixed a lot of things.
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Jan 27, 2021 15:04
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smax posted:2.0.9 seems to have fixed a lot of things. i might finally upgrade it. i have stayed on the last 1.x forever.
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Jan 27, 2021 16:22
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derk posted:i might finally upgrade it. i have stayed on the last 1.x forever. I’ve ran 2.0.9 on my ER-4 and an ERLite-3 for a while now. Been running solid without issue.
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Jan 28, 2021 01:55
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Yeah, I went up to 2.x finally on my ER-4 and it even took along all the NextDNS and other custom configs I had with no issues. Pleasantly surprised. Started to use the hardware bonding offload for a LACP linkup to my switch as well, working OK.
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Jan 28, 2021 04:00
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I’m not at all sure where to ask this, but: are there IP desk phones that I can connect simultaneously to a google voice account and a Microsoft teams account?
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Jan 28, 2021 04:46
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Can someone recommend a psu that will provide enough power to an edgerouter x that I can power an AP through it? Manual says it probably wont be enough with the bundled adapter. I'm looking at an Unifi 6 lite.
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Jan 28, 2021 19:06
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codo27 posted:Can someone recommend a psu that will provide enough power to an edgerouter x that I can power an AP through it? Manual says it probably wont be enough with the bundled adapter. I'm looking at an Unifi 6 lite. Website says the 6 lite requires 802.3af or passive 48v. Edgerouter X is 24v on pass thru. You can go with edgerouter X + non-6 lite and use the included power injector with the ap to power both. Cyks fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Jan 28, 2021 |
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Jan 28, 2021 21:52
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The house my friends bought has networking lines run through it and just needs proper termination in the basement as well as jacks and plates for half of the runs throughout the house. The electrician that did the renos seems to have just used whatever was in the truck because a third of the drops are Cat6 and the rest are Cat5e. How much of a pain is this going to be for getting a patch panel, can I just get one that's rated for one or the other and be done with it? Cat6 would obviously be preferred, but I found someone selling a Cat5e one locally for $20CAD with all the mounting hardware that seems like a good deal. 1Gbps throughout the house is probably more than enough for them right now, the switch they'll be using is an HP ProCurve 1410 I got for a song.
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Jan 29, 2021 07:17
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It will cost more but get a keystone patch panel and jacks instead of a punch down type. Get a panel with excess slots, they can come in handy in the future. There are more than just Ethernet keystones, and you’ll want to use those on the wall plate side too. You can also get 2-3u mini racks that mount on the wall or wherever for this kind of setup, you don’t need a full rack unless there are Plans.
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Jan 29, 2021 11:47
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Cat5 is more than enough for must uses. Most computers don't need that sort of speed, even if the WAN link could accommodate it. A high-end SSD caps out at 550 MBps write speed (which is 4.4 Gbps) so the only use case I could think of for a desktop would be to download and install a game at very high speed (your router will most likely be the bottleneck at this point, 4.4 Gbps of traffic is a lot for a consumer grade firewall to inspect). The one thing that could improve Cat5 somewhat would be using shielded cables so they are less susceptible to white noise and such. So for Cat6 (10Gbps) there's really not much of a use case, except if you need a link to aggregate speed. For instance if you have a high performance NAS somewhere, it might make sense to connect it using 10Gbps Ethernet so, if the read speed is high enough, several clients (say, 3) could fully use their 1 Gbps link to connect to the NAS while not impacting each other (the total throughput being 3 Gbps in this example). This is really like any tier 2 network, where your aggregation switches are lower speed than the core switches. I don't think there's any benefit to connect a Cat6 to a 1 Gbps NIC. It's not going to be more reliable than a Cat5 because the IEEE has made sure that Cat5 can deliver 1 Gbps reliably. Anything above is overkill.
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Jan 29, 2021 11:51
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devmd01 posted:It will cost more but get a keystone patch panel and jacks instead of a punch down type. Get a panel with excess slots, they can come in handy in the future. There are more than just Ethernet keystones, and you’ll want to use those on the wall plate side too. I knew this was an option but I was hoping to avoid it for the additional cost involved, since I'm in Canada and don't have as many options to get stuff, and I'm also trying to go the used route whenever possible since a lot of places around here don't sell to "consumers". A mini rack was the ideal course of action but unfortunately whoever did the wiring didn't leave enough room to do an easy job of it, and if there are no studs to conveniently mount a mini rack to the wall it's going to make the job more annoying. This is the area I'm working with, I'm assuming the electrician figured that terminating the drops and connecting them directly to whatever would be good enough and I hate him so.  Other than just hanging the switch on the wood board and directly connecting the drops there's the option of vertical patch panels, but those usually only have 12 ports and the patch cables to the switch would be even more of an ugly mess. In any case it's gonna suck if a mini rack can't be set up somewhere in that back corner. Furism posted:Cat5 is more than enough for must uses. Yeah, 1Gbps is going to be plenty. I was more concerned about physical compatibility issues with punching Cat6 cables into a Cat5e patch panel or vice versa. Probably the most demanding thing they'll be using their network for other than wireless APs, streaming and WFH is a light-duty NAS.
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Jan 29, 2021 12:20
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Coxswain Balls posted:I knew this was an option but I was hoping to avoid it for the additional cost involved, since I'm in Canada and don't have as many options to get stuff, and I'm also trying to go the used route whenever possible since a lot of places around here don't sell to "consumers". A mini rack was the ideal course of action but unfortunately whoever did the wiring didn't leave enough room to do an easy job of it, and if there are no studs to conveniently mount a mini rack to the wall it's going to make the job more annoying. This is the area I'm working with, I'm assuming the electrician figured that terminating the drops and connecting them directly to whatever would be good enough and I hate him so. Not sure about the punchdowns in patch panels but cat6 is definitely thicker conductors. One time I tried to put cat5 modular ends on cat6 and they do not go in correctly. I'd second the keystone jacks and a plate for them to make your own patch panel for ease of punching stuff down before you clip it in.
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Jan 29, 2021 12:24
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For cable ends I know that Cat6 have their own connectors where the wires are staggered instead of being a flat eight wires across because of the thicker gauge. It sounds like a keystone jack panel is going to be the way to go, and I can also do up the coax drops nicely while I'm at it even though it's not being used right now. God, I hope we can get a mini rack in there. Can anyone suggest a Canadian site or supplier I should be looking at that sells to the public, or with minimal hoops for my "consulting business"?
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Jan 29, 2021 12:35
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Cyks posted:Website says the 6 lite requires 802.3af or passive 48v. Edgerouter X is 24v on pass thru. Triple the price to jump up to the edgerouter POE, so I guess I'll just use an injector
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Jan 29, 2021 12:36
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codo27 posted:Triple the price to jump up to the edgerouter POE, so I guess I'll just use an injector You can get a cheapo poe switch from netgear for a lot less or one of the unifi poe switches, but yes. Also the unifi poe injector for the 6-lite is the U-POE-AF, which is OOS everywhere. You can get a different name brand on Amazon for around $20. So a total of $30 more (and using two power plugs) if you want the 6 over the non. Regarding patch panels: You can get a cat 6 punch down patch panel for pretty drat cheap and attaching it to a wood panel like that is trivially easy. No need to make it an elaborate design or unnecessary costs. Unless you are watching cable, who cares if you have coax cables included. Something like https://www.amazon.ca/Mofangtech-Fo...=2u+wall&sr=8-3 + https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-107...tch+pane&sr=8-7 Cyks fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Jan 29, 2021 |
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Jan 29, 2021 14:07
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^^^ the Monoprice keystone panels have a 1 star average on Monoprice.comCoxswain Balls posted:Can anyone suggest a Canadian site or supplier I should be looking at that sells to the public, or with minimal hoops for my "consulting business"? https://www.amazon.ca/Cable-Matters-50-Pack-Keystone-Punch-Down/dp/B00KCX6WDE/ 50 pack https://www.amazon.ca/Cable-Matters-25-Pack-Keystone-Punch-Down/dp/B004D5PFGW/ 25 pack https://www.amazon.ca/Cable-Matters-Mount-24-Port-Keystone/dp/B0072JVT02/ keystone panel https://www.amazon.ca/Cable-Matters-10-Pack-Profile-Keystone/dp/B074HHDJWT/ face plates - they sell 1/3/4 as well. https://www.amazon.ca/StarTech-com-19-Inch-Vertical-Equipment-RK219WALLV/dp/B001YI0V7O/ What I'd do for racking -- enough for the patch panel and a 1u switch. Given the picture I'd be tempted to mount it sideways so the ports don't face upwards and it sheds dust better. Cable Matters makes good stuff. e: bonus rack ears: https://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Procurve-1410-16G-Rack-Ears-Mounting-Bracket-Kit-5066-0622-/303648682463 KS fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Jan 29, 2021 |
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Jan 29, 2021 15:15
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Amazon's delivery contractor here is famously bad which is one of the reasons I'd prefer someone else like Monoprice. Too bad the last time I checked it would have been cost prohibitive to get the larger stuff shipped, which is a shame because otherwise I'd just do it all through them. Edit: I wonder how much of this stuff Digikey carries, they're just across the border and it was $8 same day delivery with UPS the last time I did a big order with them. Coxswain Balls fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Jan 29, 2021 |
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Jan 29, 2021 15:26
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I've got a Netgear Orbi setup - RBR50 and one RBS50. It works fine and dandy, no complaints. I got a text from Comcast saying I was at 90% of my 1.2TB data cap that they've so lovingly imposed. I'm still on a contract with them until September so I can't just switch without shelling out. Is there some way that I can track data consumption by device (MAC ID, hostname, etc.) so I can see what's hitting the hardest and work on it if possible? The Orbi console doesn't seem to include that feature, and I'd rather not flash them for fear of bricking. I'm OK with installing some kind of firewall device between the modem and router if it's not too expensive and easy enough to work with.
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Jan 29, 2021 16:58
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I'm on AT&T Gigabit internet, meaning that I have to use their provided router. It's a Pace 5268ac, and it's pretty bad. The wifi on it was awful, which I solved by getting two ubiquiti access points. I'm getting tired of the router itself being terrible to configure (I run some servers at home), and occasionally being slow for DNS resolution. I recently set up pi-hole, and learned that you cannot configure a separate internal DNS server for the ATT router's DHCP, meaning that I can't have devices automatically use pi-hole for DNS resolution. I'm inclined now to get my own router, put it behind the AT&T one and put it in the DMZ just have double-NAT. What routers should I be looking at for gigabit routing? I don't need wi-fi, my wireless solution is very well sorted. I'm already running a Uni-Fi controller on a server at home, but have heard less than stellar things about Ubiquiti routers. I was planning on getting a Mikrotik RB4011, but it looks like that can't route at line speed. For a simple, wired router that can route gigabit at line speed, what am I looking at? Or should I be getting a managed switch and setting up a router-on-a-stick config using a linux server as a router instead to route at gigabit speeds?
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Jan 29, 2021 17:25
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