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Ola posted:A very overconfident T and H, with obvious consequences. Plan ahead! Toddler-rear end kerning on display here
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Jan 21, 2021 17:19
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meatpimp posted:If I can get it cheap, maybe. It wouldn't be the dumbest thing I've ever bought... It sold for $1200. But I passed, I don't need another project right now.
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Jan 22, 2021 12:47
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EVERYWHERE 
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Steakandchips posted:How do you lot move poo poo around?
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Jan 22, 2021 17:20
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 Man-and-van basically makes half of Britain's economy go around.
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Jan 22, 2021 20:45
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Vans, although objectively the best four wheeled vehicles, make somewhat less sense in countries where it doesn't rain all the time.
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Jan 22, 2021 22:38
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Ola posted:A very overconfident T and H, with obvious consequences. Plan ahead! 2016 in a nutshell. Elector_Nerdlingen posted:Vans, although objectively the best four wheeled vehicles, make somewhat less sense in countries where it doesn't rain all the time. Minivans with sunroofs, on the other hand, are always appropriate. Especially camper conversions.
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Jan 22, 2021 23:11
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Coydog posted:2016 in a nutshell. A minivan converted to a camper makes you public enemy number 1 here btw. Just driving around the country splashing feces wherever you want, bins at the park overflowing with your garbage etc
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Jan 23, 2021 04:14
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I'm light on the exact details but my brother's 1980-something Harley FXR is still leaking oil after he replace a bunch of seals and he think there may be a crack in the block. Is there any cheap way to repair that, even just temporarily, or is he looking at a new engine?
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Jan 23, 2021 17:17
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MomJeans420 posted:I'm light on the exact details but my brother's 1980-something Harley FXR is still leaking oil after he replace a bunch of seals and he think there may be a crack in the block. Is there any cheap way to repair that, even just temporarily, or is he looking at a new engine? It's possible to repair, but it's usually very obvious. Tell him to give it a thorough degreasing and identify the leak first. Is he using synthetic oil? My bike developed a leak with synthetic and it seemed to screw the seals. With new seals, clean surfaces and regular 10W40 is was tight again.
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Jan 23, 2021 17:38
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Slavvy posted:A minivan converted to a camper makes you public enemy number 1 here btw. I'm proud to be an american where at least I know I'm free [to splash feces wherever I want] Car/RV/Popup campers can be total animals over here too, and it's an effort to find somewhere away from them. We pack it in and pack it out, and it's really no different than car camping except you don't have to set up a tent. What is the socially acceptable vehicle for camping in NZ (outside of backpacking)?
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Jan 23, 2021 18:23
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Coydog posted:I'm proud to be an american where at least I know I'm free [to splash feces wherever I want] A clapped out camry wagon and a tent, while full scale RV's/campers are generally for leadbrain boomers who want to go to concentration camp for fun. There have been multiple half-assed laws passed on an attempt to get the poo vans under control and now the problem has taken care of itself because the so called 'freedom' campers are pretty much entirely marketed to international tourists on a budget and, thus, all those companies are gloriously burning in hell right now. MomJeans420 posted:I'm light on the exact details but my brother's 1980-something Harley FXR is still leaking oil after he replace a bunch of seals and he think there may be a crack in the block. Is there any cheap way to repair that, even just temporarily, or is he looking at a new engine? 1. Not enough details 2. Like any presumably normal person, he is assuming the seals he fitted went in properly and are doing their job - this is a mistake, sometimes it takes 2-3 attempts on those old beasts, sometimes the seals that are meant to work don't, sometimes things have been modified and so on, never assume you've done everything right and the problem is the bike 3. Harley cases don't generally crack (I don't even see how that's possible tbh cause no part of the case can touch the ground in a crash) because they're made of a tough alloy quite different to japanese bikes; any leaks are almost always the result of PO damage or improper assembly, especially around the primary-crank case join area, but usually this stuff can be rectified by skilled welding/application of steel putty, but who the gently caress knows because 4. there's nowhere near enough details, you're asking how long is a piece of string Slavvy fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Jan 23, 2021 |
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Jan 23, 2021 19:52
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That's wild, as a clapped out camry and a tent also doesn't have a bathroom on board. But now I know not to import my van when I come up with millions of dollars to move to NZ.
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Jan 23, 2021 23:13
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Ola posted:It's possible to repair, but it's usually very obvious. Tell him to give it a thorough degreasing and identify the leak first. Is he using synthetic oil? My bike developed a leak with synthetic and it seemed to screw the seals. With new seals, clean surfaces and regular 10W40 is was tight again. Slavvy posted:1. Not enough details I have more details! "I do think it's cracked next to oil passage. Apparently quality varied, but still not sure why it cracked. Was at a shop and showed them pics. They agreed and said it wasn't least common spot. They can weld crack bout have to take motor apart and clean area first. Since my rebuild is low mileage, thinks he can take a lot out together, inspect and put back together." I guess if he's really lucky those are casting marks.  
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Jan 25, 2021 19:23
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MomJeans420 posted:I have more details! That sucks. If it were a dirt bike I would say just put some Jbweld on it as the repair sounds very expensive.
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Jan 25, 2021 19:29
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MomJeans420 posted:I have more details! Hahaha textbook, your mate is the PO. That happened because he bolted the gearbox and engine together before bolting the primary on. You're supposed to leave everything loose, bolt the primary case tight and only THEN do the engine mounts and engine to gearbox bolts, otherwise everything gets cocked up and something has to give way when the world's biggest vibrator starts up. Being a dry sump motor I would vee that out with an angle grinder and weld/jbweld it from the outside, you really only need to take poo poo apart if you care about the powder coat.
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Jan 25, 2021 19:34
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JB weld sounds like the answer, we'll see how "proper" he wants it fixed
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Jan 25, 2021 20:59
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Jam a rag in it
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Jan 25, 2021 21:25
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Rolling oil change, no need to keep track of mileage.
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Jan 25, 2021 23:05
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Try to somehow divert it to your chain and it's an OEM scottoiler.
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Jan 25, 2021 23:11
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The FXR is belt drive, so I don't think oiling it is a great idea I actually don't know anything about belt drives, but I'm assuming you don't oil them
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Jan 26, 2021 01:22
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Unless you love living on the EDGE
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Jan 26, 2021 01:45
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Martytoof posted:Try to somehow divert it to your chain and it's an OEM scottoiler. That’s original design on a lot of chain driven bikes from their invention up through the 40s or 50s, I think.
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Jan 26, 2021 05:11
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:That’s original design on a lot of chain driven bikes from their invention up through the 40s or 50s, I think. Yep, they usually had total loss systems wherein the normal course of affairs was having a 'dripper' that would let a small amount of oil constantly dribble into the crank case, carefully adjusted so the flow of new oil equates the amount being lost to burn. Then you tee off a few lines from there and maybe have one going the heads to sprinkle the exposed valvegear, maybe another one to dribble some on the chain, maybe even another for the exposed chain primary.* *: this is based on old american garbage, I don't know how Italians or Brits built their garbage, but I know the Germans generally tried to keep the oil on the inside right from the start.
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Jan 26, 2021 05:21
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Finger Prince posted:Rent a motorbike trailer from Uhaul. Get the next size up, much more stable.
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Jan 27, 2021 01:32
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Got an oddball question. Looking at buying an XT 350 off a dude. No title, just a bill of sale. I'm under the impression I can register it as an OHV, then apply for a title, then get it plated. I'm in CO, which requires a previous title or registration to get a title and then a plate. Does that sound like a feasible path to riding a mullet machine down to my local grocery store without the cops hassling me?
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Jan 30, 2021 05:16
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bengy81 posted:Got an oddball question. I’m also in Colorado and I’ve never had to wait more than a couple weeks until a titled mid displacement 90s dual sport came up on Craigslist, so you might want to hold out. But yeah that’s my understanding. There are a couple threads about it on ADVRider, and at least one guy in southern Colorado found a New Mexico loophole for his DR350 that worked out.
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Jan 30, 2021 05:57
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:I’m also in Colorado and I’ve never had to wait more than a couple weeks until a titled mid displacement 90s dual sport came up on Craigslist, so you might want to hold out. I think I'm gonna hold off on that XT. The more I think about it, the more of a hassle it becomes. Between my work schedule and COVID stuff, I'm looking at not getting a plate until close to summer, which is less than ideal. It's a cool bike though.
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Jan 30, 2021 06:38
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“Spring” is right around the corner here in CO so the market will pick up some more. Like you said, not really worth the hassle unless its a rare collectors item.
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Jan 30, 2021 13:56
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The rule of thumb is; If it's easy or possible to title a "missing title" vehicle, they would have done it.
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Jan 30, 2021 17:05
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Bike: 2004 Honda 599 (CB600F), naked and carb'd, water cooled. Problem: poor fuel economy and strong rich exhaust smell in cold and wet weather. Example: yesterday was in the low 40s (F) and stronger-than-usual rain for the Pacific Northwest. Got high 30s, low 40s MPG instead of the usual 45. Stop and go city riding lets the bike almost get up to usual temp. No problems if it's cold but not wet. Also, warming the bike up seems to take another minute or two longer than it used to. I've also had the engine get so cold it shuts off when you pull the clutch in, but that was mid 30s, pouring rain and going downhill for miles. Is there an actual problem here or is this the nature of naked, carb'd bikes? I try not to ride much in these conditions 'cause it isn't as much fun as staying dry but  .My thoughts are it's possible the thermostat is stuck open a little bit. Any way to test this aside from visual inspection? Is this the right path to go down?
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Feb 7, 2021 21:33
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2007 Daytona 675, ~25k miles, oil last changed in December and my miles have been minimal since then (one track day, one canyon ride, random rides around town). I've never had transmission issues, but tonight I was coming back from my friend's place and while the bike felt perfect on the freeway, as soon as I pulled off the freeway I can't shift into second. If the bike is moving I can shift from first then get stuck in neutral, trying to shift back to first makes a bad sound and it won't go in. If I pull over and come to a stop I can then shift without any issue into first and it feels fine. Start riding and try to shift into second, same thing happens again. Full chain of events is I was coming down the hill on the freeway at a decent speed, then took my fairly sharp and full of tar snakes offramp (posted sign is 15mph). I wasn't braking particularly hard but I was only using engine braking until third gear, but I wasn't downshifting rough or anything like that (I was even using my clutch). The offramp ends at a stop sign, I clicked all the down to first with no issues, but once I started going I couldn't get in to second. It was dark and I was running late to meet my wife so I haven't checked anything on the bike yet, but is this almost guaranteed to be a transmission issue? I was hoping it could be something with the shift linkage, but I don't think that makes sense if I can shift into neutral then back into first without any issues.
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Feb 8, 2021 08:41
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If you're lucky it's something to do with the selector star and you might be able to fix it by whipping the side cover off. But otherwise yeah it's engine out time, should've bought a Honda.
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Feb 8, 2021 09:56
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If I'm replacing my brake caliper seals, is it worth clamping the hose to try and keep some fluid in the reservoir, or should I just let it all drain out since the fluid is due for replacement anyway?
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Feb 8, 2021 10:41
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It's a full flush anyway. Take the opportunity to see if there is any crud down in the reservoir too. I've had tons of silt like stuff in reservoirs for older bikes, especially ones with rubber hose>metal pipe>rubber hose. What good was changing the fluid when the movement of the bubbles upwards brought corrosion from the metal pipe up..
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Feb 8, 2021 11:07
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Renaissance Robot posted:If I'm replacing my brake caliper seals, is it worth clamping the hose to try and keep some fluid in the reservoir, or should I just let it all drain out since the fluid is due for replacement anyway? Supradog posted:It's a full flush anyway. Take the opportunity to see if there is any crud down in the reservoir too. I've had tons of silt like stuff in reservoirs for older bikes, especially ones with rubber hose>metal pipe>rubber hose. What good was changing the fluid when the movement of the bubbles upwards brought corrosion from the metal pipe up.. In theory this is true. In practice you clamp off the hose because it's a thousand times easier to bleed the system when only the caliper is dry than when everything is dry. How I normally tackle this situation: suck out the reservoir contents through the top, wipe/clean out all the gunk, refill with fresh fluid, clamp the hose and do caliper stuff, refit then just bleed it through till the reservoir is nearly empty so you know all the old stuff is well and truly gone, then top up again. No needless air in the system, no dragging crap through a refreshed caliper.
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Feb 8, 2021 18:34
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Slavvy posted:If you're lucky it's something to do with the selector star and you might be able to fix it by whipping the side cover off. But otherwise yeah it's engine out time, should've bought a Honda. Now that I have daylight and time to look at it, I think I just won the lottery. I'm assuming there is supposed to be a nut on the other side of this? I guess the only possible fix for this is to buy a quickshifter.  *edit* My brain is feeling especially slow this morning but it looks like #7 is what I need? 
MomJeans420 fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Feb 8, 2021 |
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Feb 8, 2021 19:55
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Yeeeeep that’ll do it
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Feb 8, 2021 19:56
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MomJeans420 posted:Now that I have daylight and time to look at it, I think I just won the lottery. I'm assuming there is supposed to be a nut on the other side of this? I guess the only possible fix for this is to buy a quickshifter. 4, no? Or 9 if you want the whole assembly?
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Feb 8, 2021 20:07
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MomJeans420 posted:Now that I have daylight and time to look at it, I think I just won the lottery. I'm assuming there is supposed to be a nut on the other side of this? I guess the only possible fix for this is to buy a quickshifter. Lol this is like the most typical 600 owner thing ever. Take this chance to actually carefully check the rest of the bike and you'll find loads of other stuff that needs greasing, is about to fall off or hopelessly out of adjustment.
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Feb 8, 2021 20:10
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Finger Prince posted:4, no? Or 9 if you want the whole assembly? I thought the same thing but that's a seal, so I think it has to be 7. I don't know why my brain is having so much trouble with that parts diagram this morning. Slavvy posted:Lol this is like the most typical 600 owner thing ever. That's actually been on my list of things to do, but I was waiting until I had my project bike off the stands and that's kind of stalled right now. I did at least have a shop give it an inspection when I had it in for new tires in December, but that's not the same as checking all the bolts yourself.
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Feb 8, 2021 20:29
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