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wooger posted:This (EPC Reports) are still required, still near worthless. They last 10 years now. To give some perspective to our overseas friends on how useless these are: My flat in a solid-walled, converted Victorian mystery building with single-glazed sash windows and ceiling heating (warm air sinks right?) has a 'B' rating. Our electricity bill at least doubles in the winter months just trying to keep the place comfortable.
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Mar 10, 2021 23:59
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Rexxed posted:3d print the house. I'm looking forward to when this is practical (yes, I know it's been done in a limited fashion.) Also looking forward to printer failures creating some awesome abstract sculptures.
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Mar 10, 2021 23:59
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Darchangel posted:I'm looking forward to when this is practical (yes, I know it's been done in a limited fashion.) Also looking forward to printer failures creating some awesome abstract sculptures. And then people having to live in them anyway. Probably still better than the estate homes you see articles about the awful build quality on.
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Mar 11, 2021 10:16
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jammyozzy posted:To give some perspective to our overseas friends on how useless these are: My flat in a solid-walled, converted Victorian mystery building with single-glazed sash windows and ceiling heating (warm air sinks right?) has a 'B' rating. Our electricity bill at least doubles in the winter months just trying to keep the place comfortable. You have electric heating? In the ceiling - some kind of forced air...? Surely criminal in such an old place, I never see anywhere without radiators or underfloor.
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Mar 11, 2021 19:35
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When altering an internal non-load-bearing wall, e.g. adding a door, what's the general rule for adding studs etc, doubling up? Is it mostly compressive force we're dealing with?
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Mar 11, 2021 20:43
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Jaded Burnout posted:When altering an internal non-load-bearing wall, e.g. adding a door, what's the general rule for adding studs etc, doubling up? Is it mostly compressive force we're dealing with? A googlin' suggests I'll be fine with doubled up studs.
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Mar 12, 2021 15:18
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"Excited" to find that the studs in this particular wall are cut 2410mm long, so I have to buy 3000mm lengths instead of 2400. Or shim 10mm on each or something. Is that safe?
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Mar 12, 2021 17:13
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You’d usually want a wood surface on top of the door opening to nail frame and trim to. Because it’s not load bearing a cross stud would be enough as opposed to a proper header. Something like this: https://www.pjfitz.com/diy/door-installation/how-to-frame-a-door/
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Mar 12, 2021 21:16
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iv46vi posted:You’d usually want a wood surface on top of the door opening to nail frame and trim to. Because it’s not load bearing a cross stud would be enough as opposed to a proper header. Yes that's true. But I will need at least one full height stud to frame out one side of the door. Effectively I have the left hand king stud already in the right place, but I'll be removing most of two bays and the left over stud to the right will be too far over. Also the manual I have tackles these without jack studs, just fixing straight into the two kings.
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Mar 12, 2021 22:46
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Why are you changing where a door goes?
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Mar 12, 2021 23:54
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Here is a wall where I would like a door to be.  Here is a door where I would like a wall to be.  The reasons are basically efficient use of space in the bathroom. And before people get all antsy, it's not a load bearing wall. First up let's remove this wack-rear end door lining that the builder was too lazy to do properly.    Need to find the joists underneath for fixing the new sole plate to. To the archives! Looks like the joist just to the right of the brick wall is the one we'll be using.  Hopefully no underfloor right next to it? Dang.   Will have to be careful. Looking at the existing lovely framing against that nib wall.   This faint line on the floor is I reckon the builder's mark for where the joist is.  Stud finder agrees.  OK so here's the bays I'm (mostly) removing.  Measured and sketched up the (rather large) patch to cut out.  I was literally about to turn on the OMT when I realised I'd marked up the wrong two bays. I'm going to pin that on early morning brain. Moved one bay over and did it again, then hashed out the area I'll be cutting so I don't make a mistake. Also added marks for tabs I want to leave behind in case the boarding isn't attached firmly enough.   First cut.   Looks good, let's keep going.  Not perfect but it doesn't have to be.    Seems solid enough, so cut the tabs and remaining areas covered by timbers from the outside.   Mark up the to-be cripple stud. Bottom mark is the plasterboard line. Middle mark is the top of the stud that's staying attached to the boards. Top mark is where the new header goes.   Also marked other cuts and went at them with a recip saw.   The sole plate was an absolute bastard to cut for some reason. Not even a nails issue!   Cleaned up this extra plaster (forgot to get an "after" photo).  Moved into place. Please excuse the lovely fixings, I could barely swing a hammer at this point so it's just enough to keep everything stable and aligned until I can come back to it.  New rough framing will go here.  Doorway.    Wall ready for filler and painting. It was owed a final coat anyway.  
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Mar 17, 2021 15:23
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So the piece of wall you cut out to make the new doorway fits nicely into the space of the old doorway you want to close up? That's really neat.
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Mar 17, 2021 16:35
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Just Winging It posted:So the piece of wall you cut out to make the new doorway fits nicely into the space of the old doorway you want to close up? That's really neat. Only because I measured to make it so. But yeah the door openings are close enough of a standard and have enough wiggle room that I may not have to increase the hole any (though it may need to be a touch taller).
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Mar 17, 2021 17:18
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The ol' real life cut and paste. Nice!
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Mar 17, 2021 17:43
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I've seen this before... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S328nyn8Dc8
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Mar 17, 2021 17:59
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Yep that's about right. Except my photos of Diana are already headless.
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Mar 17, 2021 18:30
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It's tidy and all but really not on to not sledgehammer through the bit you're taking out. Or better still run through it.
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Mar 17, 2021 23:00
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If you plan on doing any significant amount of drywall work, get yourself a rotozip. For example, in that doorway you'd just have shoved it through the wall near one of the sides, moved it to the side until you hit the stud, and just followed the stud all the way down. It really comes in handy when you've got a bunch of boxes/vents in a wall. This video describes it way better: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dPFi0Dvui-I&t=58s
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Mar 18, 2021 00:28
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devicenull posted:If you plan on doing any significant amount of drywall work, get yourself a rotozip. For example, in that doorway you'd just have shoved it through the wall near one of the sides, moved it to the side until you hit the stud, and just followed the stud all the way down. That's pretty much what I did with the multitool. Not quite as easy as that thing looks, but cuts through plaster fast as anything, so I'm not sure the cost would be worth it.
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Mar 18, 2021 00:37
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the multitool will cut into things on its edge I guess, whereas thats basically just a drill. Interesting certainly but would it not work just using a drill already plunged through the plasterboard?
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Mar 18, 2021 01:17
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NotJustANumber99 posted:the multitool will cut into things on its edge I guess, whereas thats basically just a drill. Interesting certainly but would it not work just using a drill already plunged through the plasterboard?
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Mar 18, 2021 01:27
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NotJustANumber99 posted:the multitool will cut into things on its edge I guess, whereas thats basically just a drill. Interesting certainly but would it not work just using a drill already plunged through the plasterboard? I think the only difference is the bit - the rotozip bits cut on the very tip, but then there's a 1/4 inch part or so that's just smooth steel, so you don't manage to mangle the box you're cutting around.
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Mar 18, 2021 01:51
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NotJustANumber99 posted:the multitool will cut into things on its edge I guess Not very well, though it depends on the blade, they're really all about plunge cutting. That said, you can tilt the tool at an angle and run it along a line/joist/stud.
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Mar 18, 2021 14:54
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Rotozips seem to be more of a US thing than UK. because we generally skim everywhere neatness around sockets is less of a concern. That said my major bug bear is bad plastering around light sockets.
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Mar 18, 2021 15:00
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CancerCakes posted:Rotozips seem to be more of a US thing than UK. because we generally skim everywhere neatness around sockets is less of a concern. In my case everything was skimmed first and then all sockets/boxes cut out, so neatness was I guess about the same concern, i.e. as much leeway as the cover for the socket gives.
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Mar 18, 2021 15:26
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please tell me that once the wall was cut you burst through it like a wrestler making a dramatic entrance
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Mar 18, 2021 16:29
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ChickenOfTomorrow posted:please tell me that once the wall was cut you burst through it like a wrestler making a dramatic entrance That would've been rad but no I wanted it intact. I did help the sole plate along with some steel toe boots though.
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Mar 18, 2021 16:49
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Some tidying up to do.      The last one particularly annoying because the blade is jammed in my recip for some reason and the one in there is useless for cutting that angle, so I had to do it by hand. Cut the new header deliberately a couple mm too long so it can wedge into place.  I hate nails. I hate putting them in, taking them out, buying them, storing them. gently caress nails.  Put in these braces, slightly for structure but mostly as something to more firmly attach the plasterboard to.   Putting screws through the sole plate into the floor was the most tense part, but I don't see any leaks so I didn't hit a pipe. Intended to use construction adhesive to attach the plasterboard but the stuff I have has gone off and is garbo, so I'll need to come back with some screws.  Just got a bit of plasterboard trimming to do and one jack stud left then I can put the lining back.
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Mar 20, 2021 15:49
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With 4 months notice of an early/mid April date and regular chasing for the last 5 weeks, the landscaper has finally set some actual dates, and the best they can do is 27th of April "subject to potential supplier shortages". I won't be going with them for the final landscaping after the builders have been in.
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Mar 26, 2021 19:25
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Need to trim back this raggedy edge to make room for the door lining. Cut along it, then taped so I could cut the ends without it falling and smashing, because I'll reuse this piece to fill a gap on the wall.  Time to break out the packers.  Lining wedged in place and held at the top.   Given how it looked in the other doorway, no surprise how out of square it is.  Lots of packing to square it up. Will probably need to redo this slightly, but for now it's good enough.   And there we go; adequate. 
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Apr 6, 2021 15:32
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Looks good! I really never thought about the difficulty in framing doors so they're square and level until I saw some youtube renovation stuff and renovation threads here on SA. I guess it's the kind of thing you take for granted until you have to fix it or do it.
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Apr 7, 2021 01:03
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Making *anything* square and level takes more effort than most realize, and still fewer actually put said effort into it.
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Apr 7, 2021 21:28
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First workshop quote is in.quote:We are pleased to tender for your garden workshop as to your drawings and specifications.
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Apr 8, 2021 14:19
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Jaded Burnout posted:60k quote 
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Apr 8, 2021 15:26
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HAHA that is a nuts, probably not including VAT What the gently caress steels are you having? Do they mean catnic lintels? Just dig the trenches your self, supervise the pour then find a brickie to throw up the structure in a week. You could probably do it for 6K, then roof it yourself (you've got the gear already). Andy (Gosforth Handyman on youtube) is literally doing this now, check out his most recent videos.
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Apr 8, 2021 15:30
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CancerCakes posted:HAHA that is a nuts, probably not including VAT Yeah tell me about it. I'm having the guy round tomorrow to go over it all in detail. But I ain't payin' that. £30k+VAT all-in I would accept, but 60 is way up. CancerCakes posted:What the gently caress steels are you having? Do they mean catnic lintels? No, there will be lintels but there's also a full-length ridge beam and two windposts. CancerCakes posted:Just dig the trenches your self, supervise the pour then find a brickie to throw up the structure in a week. You could probably do it for 6K, then roof it yourself (you've got the gear already). I'm giving it serious thought. CancerCakes posted:Andy (Gosforth Handyman on youtube) is literally doing this now, check out his most recent videos. Thanks for the pointer. I also coincidentally found this guy when I was looking at what beam & block was all about, and it seems to hit a lot of the same features that I'd need to do. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIDgcXIMND4
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Apr 8, 2021 18:07
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look you've seen what skimping can end up with so far, pay the money. Maybe give him a bit more.
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Apr 9, 2021 00:26
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He will have priced it on a £ per m2 on his normal rate based on extensions in the area. The value of an extension job is far higher because it raises the house price a lot, and the builder can essentially take a cut of the price increase rather than going to the bother to actually calculate the cost to him of labour and materials, plus his time, plus his profit. That works with extensions, because everyone is doing it on mortgages anyway. Good luck getting him to budge on price, builders are really busy at the moment and if he doesn't get his £3k a week profit from you he will get it on the extension round the corner. If you want to ACTUALLY know what the cost is, send the plans to an estimating service like HBXL, that will tell you what the mat costs are, and I think they do a per diem labour cost estimate.
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Apr 9, 2021 01:13
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Had the builder round, and after some discussion came to the conclusion that I've been once again caught right in that valley between "shed" and "bungalow", similar to the issues I had with a lot of the building regulations. The structural engineer has to follow either the building regulations or BSI standards (which are stricter) in order to be in compliance with their insurance, and because of the history of construction in the UK, there's nothing in the regs about stick-framed structures other than this:  Which, tldr, says "We've heard tell of these 'timber houses' and I'm sure they're well and good but we do things with brick here". There *are* a couple of British Standards / EU documents for timber construction, but they're paywalled. So when I originally suggested to the seng that I was open to either blockwork or stick framing (and had drawn assuming blockwork because that's what I was familiar with), it's perhaps no surprise that he opted for blockwork. Long story short, the design is way overbuilt (as some of you pointed out, though it is definitely more than just a shed in terms of structural requirements) and that's where the surprise 2x cost has come from. After further discussion and me rechecking the permitted development rules, I think I can get away with a flat roof after all, which also reduces costs. I felt like the guy was also inclined to bullshit a little when discussion went out of his area of expertise (seemed to suggest that it was going to be very expensive to run a single 4" waste pipe about 50m (it's not) so I'm going to pull back the spec a lot and try to keep it just to a) footings & foundation, b) main structure, c) weather-tightening. He already structures his agreements in the way I'd prefer, i.e. upfront payment for (and delivery of) all materials, then a payment when the foundation is done, then another when weather tight, and a final completion payment. He reckons about 3 weeks if done by stick construction (6 for block). We did also discuss SIP but will probably forego it this time.
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Apr 9, 2021 16:25
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Sounds positive anyway, good job. Are you going fully flat roof or monopitch?
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Apr 9, 2021 17:27
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