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Anyone have a specific website they like for appliance parts? Specifically need a control board for Whirlpool Duet dryer, P/N W10111606. My local parts house is closed til Monday and I'd rather just have something ordered than wait until then to see if they have one or not.
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May 1, 2021 16:18
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| # ? Apr 30, 2024 05:49 |
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Ebay always worth a look.
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May 1, 2021 16:24
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gently caress this thread, the water line to my icemaker is leaking into the bottom of the freezer.
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May 1, 2021 18:05
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falz posted:Ebay always worth a look. Good call, found one from what looks like a good seller. Now I get to hang out at my in-laws house this afternoon to dry clothes.
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May 1, 2021 18:23
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tetrapyloctomy posted:gently caress this thread, the water line to my icemaker is leaking into the bottom of the freezer.
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May 1, 2021 18:47
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tetrapyloctomy posted:gently caress this thread, the water line to my icemaker is leaking into the bottom of the freezer. You're saying that you need to go a little into the future?
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May 1, 2021 20:20
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falz posted:That sounds like more of the internals of the freezer than the water line, unless it's leaking where they connect on the back. It is the internals somewhere. I intended "the water feed to the icemaker" but my shorthand was too ambiguous. Regardless, there's a glacier on the bottom on the freezer, so I can either shut off the water supply entirely and hope the cheap saddle valve in the basement ceiling doesn't leak, or I can keep getting ice in the freezer but have to chip off the bottom.
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May 1, 2021 20:50
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tetrapyloctomy posted:It is the internals somewhere. I intended "the water feed to the icemaker" but my shorthand was too ambiguous. Regardless, there's a glacier on the bottom on the freezer, so I can either shut off the water supply entirely and hope the cheap saddle valve in the basement ceiling doesn't leak, or I can keep getting ice in the freezer but have to chip off the bottom. This sounds more like a frozen condensation drain. I had to disassemble my freezer and pour boiling water in with a shop vac in the drip tray. Its also why my fridge is on its last strike
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May 1, 2021 21:13
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Deviant posted:This sounds more like a frozen condensation drain. I had to disassemble my freezer and pour boiling water in with a shop vac in the drip tray. Its also why my fridge is on its last strike I'll look into it. Our fridge isn't even that old. I think the one that came with the house failed seven years ago.
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May 1, 2021 22:10
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You know, all I wanted to do was replace the old plywood deck flooring with some composite boards. Ugh
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May 1, 2021 22:13
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And this is how I ended up spending 3k on a concrete patio in my backyard.. I'll just replace some of the boards on the first level. I'll just replace the rotted joists ... Maybe I'll do pavers.. maybe I'll replace both with concrete.
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May 1, 2021 23:25
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Final Blog Entry posted:Anyone have a specific website they like for appliance parts? Specifically need a control board for Whirlpool Duet dryer, P/N W10111606. My local parts house is closed til Monday and I'd rather just have something ordered than wait until then to see if they have one or not. RepairClinic.com
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May 2, 2021 00:05
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Crosspost from plumbing thread I live in a 1924 construction house. When the house was built it was common to have cast iron pipes that were tied into the sewer that were connected to the downspouts. This isn't to code any more, so the downspouts just go to the ground now. What I am left with are some cast iron pipes in the basement that go through the brick foundation to the outside. Ideally I'd like to cut and cap the pipes inside. What is the best way to do this? What is the best fitting to use to cap them? Imgur gallery of the pipes below. There are two larger ones (4"?) and a smaller one (2"). We have some masons repointing the brick, and I'm hoping if I can get this sorted before they are done they can patch the inside as well. https://imgur.com/a/lyTlIfe
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May 2, 2021 00:45
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ErikTheRed posted:You know, all I wanted to do was replace the old plywood deck flooring with some composite boards. Ugh Is the slab damaged or is it just gross as hell?
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May 2, 2021 02:19
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Just moved into our newly purchased house. The bathroom was remodeled back in 2010ish. Anyone have any idea what's going on with my gross looking bathroom walls?    (lol, caulking???) Not sure if the photos convey how grubby they look. A dry cleaning sponge doesn't do much. This is the only room in the house like this, and is also the only bathroom. We thought it was smoke damage, or maybe soot from candles, but now we think the walls used to be gray, and the previous owners intended to paint them white, but hosed it up.  The bathroom vanity is hosed too. This door was ripped off and the cabinet hinge is bent, other pieces of the vanity hardware look rusted and lovely. If the hinge were replaced, it still can't be screwed in without repairing damage to where it mounts. The particle board is grubby, bubbled in spots, stained. The granite counter top and tiled backsplash seem fine though.  loling at this dirty rear end ceiling and old dusty nutone fan. Can't tell if it's from the 60s or if it's had a rough ten years since the remodel. What do I do about these gross walls? How can I salvage a bathroom vanity with an acceptable sink/countertop but trash particle board cabinetry that's been damaged? Why did I buy a house?
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May 2, 2021 03:36
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To my non-expert eyes that looks like a lovely paint job. If it doesn't smell like smoke (get your nose up in it) and there isn't other evidence of water damage then clean it with tsp and call that the primer coat. Buy good paint and good tools and it will look great. Edit: Looked at it on a laptop and I feel better about my opinion. Someone either painted over a darker color with a super thin paint job and called it close enough ("I don't know why they're trying to rip me off with that $65/gallon stuff, this $20/gallon HGTV says it's high quality right here on the label!") or someone put up new walls and poorly sealed them so the paint sucked into the drywall. That first coat of primer is for the drywall, not you. Either way, if you're going to paint this yourself it's time to spend about $200 on tools for painting. High quality brushes in various sizes and shapes, a high quality roller handle, a cheap broom handle from the broom aisle, roller tray, a fat stack of plastic tray liners, 3 pack of rollers, and one of those fancy plastic cups. On your third trip go ahead and grab one of those gallon size pour assist things that clips onto the size of the can. Every trip ask for a stir stick. Wash your brushes thoroughly with running water when you're done for the day, wrap rollers and brushes tightly in a plastic shopping bag (remember those?) to take breaks. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 04:04 on May 2, 2021 |
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May 2, 2021 03:39
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csammis posted:Is the slab damaged or is it just gross as hell? Just gross. There was a skull from some small animal and bunch of poop too.
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May 2, 2021 03:39
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the holy poopacy posted:Connected thermostat/fridge makes some degree of sense. If the heat goes out in the middle of winter and you're not home it's really, really good to know so that you can do something about it. Same thing with the AC during the summer, to a lesser extent. Fridge is less critical but still good to know if you need to toss/try to salvage your food because it died. When you return--if the quarter is at the bottom of the glass, maybe don't eat the frozen shrimp.
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May 2, 2021 03:45
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Crosspost from plumbing thread Fernco caps should do what you need. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fernco-2-in-PVC-DWV-Flexible-Cap-PQC-102/100372303 SKU# 100372303
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May 2, 2021 03:53
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I have words for whoever installed 200 feet of drip line buried 12-18 inches underground in a single run around the perimeter of my backyard. Very angry words. Never send polyurethane tubing to do a real pipe's job.
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May 2, 2021 06:06
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Previous owner improvements that were so close to being great. Maybe worth fixing, maybe not. Any creative thoughts? 1.  The modern composite decking is great! But why does the front deck need to be at such a steep forward incline that it induces vertigo? (The back porch fortunately isn't like this.) And is this possibly fixable without paying for an all-new deck since this one is only like 4 or 5 years old? (You can see how the neighbors' old deck is slope-corrected in the top of the photo.) 2.  This shed seems well-constructed! But that ramp has quite the footprint considering the small back yard. The shed does house a snowblower (ideal place for it) so steps aren't an immediate answer. Is there some crazy ($$$?) way to like sink the shed to have a level entrance like the garage does? Any insight into why it might have been built this way? (Perhaps to avoid water / something intrinsic to wood vs stone construction? I obviously don't know too much about this stuff!)
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May 2, 2021 17:16
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admiraldennis posted:
Sinking your
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May 2, 2021 17:24
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Went to get paint samples from Sherwin-Williams yesterday and no store in the entirety of SoCal has them. Apparently their factory is in Texas and after the big freeze every pipe there burst. They've routed what little manufacturing capability they have into the most popular paints they make and have nothing to spare. They said they hope to ramp up quick enough before their backstock is emptied.
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May 2, 2021 17:25
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FCKGW posted:Went to get paint samples from Sherwin-Williams yesterday and no store in the entirety of SoCal has them. Apparently their factory is in Texas and after the big freeze every pipe there burst. They've routed what little manufacturing capability they have into the most popular paints they make and have nothing to spare. They said they hope to ramp up quick enough before their backstock is emptied. The problem isn't an SW plant in Texas, it's raw materials manufacturers/refiners in Texas who got all hosed up from the freeze and supply manufacturers across the paint industry and related categories like caulks and sealants. It's going to be a mess for a while.
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May 2, 2021 20:24
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gay_crimes posted:Just moved into our newly purchased house. The bathroom was remodeled back in 2010ish.
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May 2, 2021 22:12
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It looks like there are a handful of places to order kitchen cabinets online that are shipped unassembled. Anyone have any luck or recommendations for one over the others? Or just a general recommendation to avoid entirely?Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I think it's mostly a lovely paint job, but up in the corners in looks like there might be some mildew too. Easy enough to clean up with some bleachwater and they make a spray that supposedly makes a barrier of some sort to prevent it. My bathroom exhaust fan is apparently inadequate and I get some mildew on the ceiling above my shower sometimes. We repainted our bathroom ceiling with mold/mildew-resistant paint a few years ago, and haven't had any since then. Whenever we redo that bathroom I intend to put one of those timer switches in it to let the fan run a while longer than it does now after showers, but the paint has been a good solution in lieu of more ventilation.
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May 2, 2021 22:59
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Can you just remove the ramp, and put it in the shed? Seems like you only really need the ramp to be there before a snowfall.
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May 2, 2021 23:32
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FCKGW posted:Went to get paint samples from Sherwin-Williams yesterday and no store in the entirety of SoCal has them. Apparently their factory is in Texas and after the big freeze every pipe there burst. They've routed what little manufacturing capability they have into the most popular paints they make and have nothing to spare. They said they hope to ramp up quick enough before their backstock is emptied. There was also an explosion at a paint plant that's a supplier to a bunch of the big brands.
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May 2, 2021 23:35
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Blowjob Overtime posted:It looks like there are a handful of places to order kitchen cabinets online that are shipped unassembled. Anyone have any luck or recommendations for one over the others? Or just a general recommendation to avoid entirely? Do you *need* them to be unassembled? We ordered from cabinets.com and are very happy with how they came out. Every cabinet came in it's own box, and the delivery guy put them in our garage. Getting everything to line up fully with unassembled cabinets sounds pretty tedious, and I doubt it'll be as solid as something factory assembled.
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May 2, 2021 23:37
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Hey, anyone have any idea why a towel rod would be entombed in the wall of my home? I was planning to mount a new medicine cabinet inside a wall to replace the lovely one that was mounted on the outside of the wall. So I cut a small hole to see what I was dealing with.  First, I found some existing framing that's really weird. But when I stuck a hand up under that double-2x4 there, I found that the lower one is actually like a 2x2, and behind it, balanced on the stud, is a square towel rod. It couldn't have gotten there by accident; Pinned in the middle above and below, and at the ends by the studs in the wall, the only way to remove it was to cut away the 2x4. In addition, I found another 2x4 mounted above my hole, and another 2x2 mounted further down in the wall, about at the height of the countertop of the sink. Here, the vertical stud hasn't been removed, it was just notched to insert the 2x2.  I have no loving clue what was here. The framed area is too small for a medicine cabinet, and I don't know what else you'd inset in a bathroom wall like this. Why a towel rod????????
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May 3, 2021 01:46
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admiraldennis posted:Previous owner improvements that were so close to being great. Maybe worth fixing, maybe not. It was built wrong, full stop. admiraldennis posted:2. That shed wasn't built there. It was dropped off the back of a truck. Since it has no foundation, just a skid, putting it in a hole will just rot it out. I really don't see why you need such a gentle slope to get a snowblower in and out unless you have mobility issues that should probably be preventing you from operating a snowblower.
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May 3, 2021 02:28
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Thanks. The shed explanation makes sense. I don't know why the ramp is so long. Thinking I'll replace it with a much shorter ramp, or maybe it's viable to use a lightweight portable metal ramp that I can bust out only when I actually need it. The deck I suppose I'll just need to get re-done. It's so dumb.
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May 3, 2021 02:59
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I mean, the deck needs to be pitched away from the house, so that much is right. It just looks like babys first try and they screwed up the slope calculation. How one would continue on anyway once that became obvious is a mystery to me.
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May 3, 2021 03:01
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FCKGW posted:Went to get paint samples from Sherwin-Williams yesterday and no store in the entirety of SoCal has them. Apparently their factory is in Texas and after the big freeze every pipe there burst. They've routed what little manufacturing capability they have into the most popular paints they make and have nothing to spare. They said they hope to ramp up quick enough before their backstock is emptied. Did you look into Samplize? Ordered a bunch of samples from them recently and they shipped fast. Similar price, and no mess.
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May 3, 2021 03:24
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devicenull posted:Do you *need* them to be unassembled? We ordered from cabinets.com and are very happy with how they came out. Every cabinet came in it's own box, and the delivery guy put them in our garage. No, not a need for unassembled. It's just cheaper and seems less likely to be damaged. Based on Ikea experience, getting them all put together well and level is a fear of mine, so if there are benefits to shipping assembled I'm 100% open to that.
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May 3, 2021 03:36
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I think it's mostly a lovely paint job, but up in the corners in looks like there might be some mildew too. Easy enough to clean up with some bleachwater and they make a spray that supposedly makes a barrier of some sort to prevent it. My bathroom exhaust fan is apparently inadequate and I get some mildew on the ceiling above my shower sometimes. Blowjob Overtime posted:It looks like there are a handful of places to order kitchen cabinets online that are shipped unassembled. Anyone have any luck or recommendations for one over the others? Or just a general recommendation to avoid entirely? Good call out, looks like a combo of bad white paint over gray, and mildew! I've been able to scrub a lot of it off with bleach and water, but there was a surprising amount higher up on the tile in the shower. was particularly gross around this window, wiped up a bunch of gray/black mildew once I had the bleach applied  I took off the janky towel rod mount and this is also looking gross.  I'm worried about water damage but none of the walls/floors are mushy, they're all solid. It seems like a humid room that the previous owners didn't clean well. The plumbing hardware is a bit rusted as is some of the vanity hardware, and the vanity particleboard is peeling and seems damaged from humidity. Any tips for making this room less mildew prone? I've been running the fan for a long while after showers and popping the tiny window open, but it doesn't seem like enough. This is the first bathroom I've had in a while that didn't have an ac register vent (I'm in TX). I'm having AC work done, would it be worthwhile to get ducts ran to this room? Should I look into a dehumidifier?
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May 3, 2021 04:24
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gay_crimes posted:Any tips for making this room less mildew prone? I've been running the fan for a long while after showers and popping the tiny window open, but it doesn't seem like enough. This is the first bathroom I've had in a while that didn't have an ac register vent (I'm in TX). I'm having AC work done, would it be worthwhile to get ducts ran to this room? Should I look into a dehumidifier? TX may not have a shitload of blown insulation sitting on top of the existing fan. Do you have good access to replace it? Even if it's with the exact same lovely Nutone model, if it's old it may not be pulling much air.
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May 3, 2021 04:33
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Make sure the fan works. Install a fan timer or a fan that is humidity activated. Either there is no fan/it's inadequate or the last owners did not turn it on for long enough after showers. Blowjob Overtime posted:TX may not have a shitload of blown insulation sitting on top of the existing fan. Any decent inspector should have immediately seen that there was no proper vent for the fan. It should NOT be affected by insulation over it because it should be getting piped to a proper roof vent. Of course any number of things could have gone wrong to get us to here.
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May 3, 2021 04:34
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Thanks, I'll look at replacing the fan, I have access to it
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May 3, 2021 04:36
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Motronic posted:Make sure the fan works. Install a fan timer or a fan that is humidity activated. The insulation bit was just for ease of replacement. Our upper floor bathroom fan in MN was a pain in the rear end because of so much blown-in insulation sitting on top of it in the attic fell down replacing it. Best case I'm imagining an old fan that's just not running well and can be swapped out relatively easily.
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May 3, 2021 04:39
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