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JFC. I spent way too long looking for this piece of poo poo. I was moving poo poo around, looking under furniture, etc. I literally picked up the frame and shook it, and it didn't come out of there.
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Jun 10, 2021 06:18
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VideoGameVet posted:I've given up on Semi-Metallic disc brake pads and gone back to organic pads. But you’ll miss the symphony when you brake in the wet.
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Jun 10, 2021 10:23
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highme posted:Aren’t rotors on the list of hard to acquire parts these days? There isn't enough steel to make certain bike parts this year. It's been weird.
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Jun 10, 2021 13:22
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SimonSays posted:There isn't enough steel to make certain bike parts this year. It's been weird. Just make more stuff out of carbon fiber 
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Jun 10, 2021 14:52
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Safety Dance posted:Just make more stuff out of carbon fiber I am actually considering buying a carbon fiber chainring...
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Jun 10, 2021 20:23
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SimonSays posted:There isn't enough steel to make certain bike parts this year. It's been weird. Was kinda my point. I know there are shortages of lots of wear items in lots of different industries (had to wait 3 weeks to get 4 standard rear end bolts from the factory to repair our washing machine) but wasn't sure if rotors were one of the specific bike parts that were hard to get. If they are, I'm much more inclined to not use pads that wear them out quicker. When I had my bike in the shop in January they tried to upsell me on new rotors "If we can find them", but that's my only data point really. Speaking of rotors, gonna take this chance to ask a question that I've been meaning to ask re centerlock/6-bolt compatibility. Does it matter to the caliper which interface the wheel/rotor uses? IE can I run 6-bolts on my bike that has centerlock currently, provided they're the correct diameter? highme fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Jun 10, 2021 |
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Jun 10, 2021 20:48
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Pretty sure the caliper won't care provided your hub has the right mounts.
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Jun 10, 2021 23:00
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TobinHatesYou posted:Presuming you've done the lovely napkin math WRT overall cost savings of longer lasting metallic pads vs longer lasting rotors? $10 for organic pads from REI. ($20 for the pair) Rotors? About $30 a pop. But also I can swap pads (BB7’s) in about 10 minutes. Also they are quieter. Part of my issue is that any ride from where I live involves fast descents with traffic lights and/or stop signs and this is on a recumbent that has hit 50+ MPH on these descents (I tend to keep it under 40 for sanity), and I’m between 215 and 220 lbs nowadays. When I had rim brakes on a similar bike I’d crack rims every 1500 miles or so from the heat stress.
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Jun 11, 2021 01:21
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Anyone have some good tips on how to remove stock grips on a flat bar bicycle? The park tools video says use an air compressor which isn't super helpful, I just want to pull them off and replace with something cooler.
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Jun 11, 2021 01:42
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highme posted:Speaking of rotors, gonna take this chance to ask a question that I've been meaning to ask re centerlock/6-bolt compatibility. Does it matter to the caliper which interface the wheel/rotor uses? IE can I run 6-bolts on my bike that has centerlock currently, provided they're the correct diameter? All disc hubs have the same target rotor offset, except for some early fat bike standards. That said, chances are you'll need to tweak the caliper position a bit to fix some rubbing.
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Jun 11, 2021 01:43
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Sab0921 posted:Anyone have some good tips on how to remove stock grips on a flat bar bicycle? If you have rubber slip-on type grips, squirt a little bit of rubbing alcohol between the grip and the handlebar. Soapy water might also work.
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Jun 11, 2021 01:58
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skul-gun posted:If you have rubber slip-on type grips, squirt a little bit of rubbing alcohol between the grip and the handlebar. Soapy water might also work. This worked! Thanks!
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Jun 11, 2021 02:26
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My brother-in-law and his wife is moving away so they are giving a whole bunch of stuff away. My wife decided to take the washer, the drier, and a hardtail mountain bike... Now i have 4 bikes (nominally 3 because one is a POS)
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Jun 11, 2021 03:10
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If you posted in the right thread, does that mean the HT needs fixing?
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Jun 11, 2021 03:26
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awww gently caress, i meant to post that in the general thread but i may be posting in here trying to fix up the HT.
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Jun 11, 2021 03:44
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Sab0921 posted:Anyone have some good tips on how to remove stock grips on a flat bar bicycle? The air compressor trick is to either wedge the nozzle between the grip and the bar, or if there's a little hole in the end of a sealed grip put the nozzle in there and blow the other one right off. If that doesn't work there's also taking a box cutter and slicing the grip and then throwing it in the trash where slide on grips belong.
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Jun 11, 2021 04:21
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EvilJoven posted:The air compressor trick is to either wedge the nozzle between the grip and the bar, or if there's a little hole in the end of a sealed grip put the nozzle in there and blow the other one right off. The air compressor trick isn't helpful for people who don't own one is what they were getting at.
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Jun 11, 2021 04:50
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EvilJoven posted:The air compressor trick is to either wedge the nozzle between the grip and the bar, or if there's a little hole in the end of a sealed grip put the nozzle in there and blow the other one right off.  I run these on my DH bike and they made a bigger difference to hand comfort than fork upgrades and padded gloves. I'll never run any other grips. Because there is no wasted diameter for a plastic sleeve like you get with even the ODI rogue grips, the amount of cushioning you get is insane. I love them so much.
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Jun 11, 2021 05:21
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ElMaligno posted:Now i have 4 bikes (nominally 3 because one is a POS) I'm currently at 7 so don't feel too bad!
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Jun 11, 2021 14:34
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EvilJoven posted:The air compressor trick is to either wedge the nozzle between the grip and the bar, or if there's a little hole in the end of a sealed grip put the nozzle in there and blow the other one right off. If you don't have an air compressor you can carefully slide a screwdriver under the grip. Once it's under there, spray some rubbing alcohol inside. You can also insert the screwdriver in stages, spraying alcohol in periodically as you go deeper. Once that is done, it slides off easy peasy. To install without a compressor, you can try rubbing alcohol, although it sometimes takes a few days to dry. Another method is to put 4-5 zip ties inside the grip. Slide it on with the zip ties, then use some pliers to pull the zip ties out.
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Jun 11, 2021 14:57
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eSporks posted:Another method is to put 4-5 zip ties inside the grip. Slide it on with the zip ties, then use some pliers to pull the zip ties out. I've done it with one zip tie dipped in dish soap, working it slowly around the underside, and wiggling the grip to spread it around. You have to clean up quite a bit, especially if you're trying to reuse the grips right away.
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Jun 11, 2021 15:07
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eSporks posted:Don't listen to this ignorance. I don't know why anyone would opt to have the majority of their grip be hard plastic. Lock ons are for lazy people. Ergon grips are all use a bolt to go on/off. So they are for lazy people? You’re just be lovely and dumb in a different way. Congratulations!
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Jun 11, 2021 15:51
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Aside from either not tightening them enough or ham fisting the bolts to the point of stripping them lock on grips are dead simple secure and fast. I've seen slip on grips stretch out too much during install resulting in them becoming immediately unsuable (moreso with cheap ones when putting them on with the compressor), lose grip and slip off at inopportune times, or get stuck completely resulting in the complete destruction of the grip when it needs to be removed. I've never tried the Ourys, maybe they're good to the point of being worth it, but my experience points to lock on grips being vastly superior.
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Jun 11, 2021 16:39
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vikingstrike posted:Ergon grips are all use a bolt to go on/off. So they are for lazy people? You’re just be lovely and dumb in a different way. Congratulations! He's not totally wrong, I (a person with alcohol and an air compressor) like Ergon because I'm lazy. Maybe re-brand lazy as "easy" on this one, we might be saying the same thing.
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Jun 11, 2021 16:44
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Grip glue and safety wire is your friend
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Jun 11, 2021 17:21
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Use whatever grips you like, I was just matching Joven's tone. Lock ons are easier to put on, but that's not a good reason to claim regular grips need to be thrown in the trash. It's a tradeoff.
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Jun 11, 2021 23:15
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I got brooks grips for the aesthetics. No other reason, they are lock on, so I guess I'll defend that position to the death - the slide on grippers must pay for their crimes.
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Jun 11, 2021 23:18
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I have a thru axle (stock endurace) setup. I took rear wheel off for the first time (to use bike on kickr). Easy! Putting the wheel back on?... not so much. Anyways... finally got it back on. The disc is now rubbing against left side pad enough to halt a good spin in ~5-10 seconds. I've tried taking the wheel off a bit and reseating several times (applying downward etc). Same thing, no apparent wobbling or loose parts. I did gently caress up earlier and used the brake accidentally when the wheel was off (was getting on the kickr for first time... bad instinct) <- that's a no no, right? Could that've caused alignment issues? I choose to believe I just am not aligning stuff properly but it seems I might need to adjust the pads?
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Jun 12, 2021 03:19
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Yeah you hosed it up. Take the wheel back off and use a plastic tire lever to push the brake pads back on each side then reinstall and with the bike the right way up squeeze the lever fully a few times and it'll recenter the pads.
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Jun 12, 2021 03:28
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I've had luck loosening the brake bolts, holding down the lever (with the wheel in place) and then retightening the bolts. After that, I let go of the lever. I'm down to hear why that's the wrong thing to do though.
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Jun 12, 2021 04:35
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I've had luck loosening the brake bolts, holding down the lever (with the wheel in place) and then retightening the bolts. After that, I let go of the lever. that's how I always do it too. Never had to remove the wheel but also never had them far out of whack. Squeeze the lever and retighten while holding if it wasn't clear.
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Jun 12, 2021 04:43
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I've had luck loosening the brake bolts, holding down the lever (with the wheel in place) and then retightening the bolts. After that, I let go of the lever. If the pads have moved in farther than intended because the rotor wasn't there, when you replace the rotor you get less clearance than intended. Not always a bad thing but you might get weird pad wear.
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Jun 12, 2021 04:43
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I've had luck loosening the brake bolts, holding down the lever (with the wheel in place) and then retightening the bolts. After that, I let go of the lever. It’s not wrong and is usually good enough to get it right or get you in a good starting point to tweak by hand.
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Jun 12, 2021 05:42
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I've had luck loosening the brake bolts, holding down the lever (with the wheel in place) and then retightening the bolts. After that, I let go of the lever.
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Jun 12, 2021 07:45
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I got sent a card of 12 speed Eagle master links instead of 12 speed road/AXS links. They look the same from what I can see without opening the pack but the SRAM site says they’re different. Anyone know what the actual difference is?
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Jun 12, 2021 10:21
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All 3 workshops I've spent time in use hairspray for fitting rubber grips https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0xC9ekyWmQESab0921 posted:I got brooks grips for the aesthetics. No other reason, they are lock on, so I guess I'll defend that position to the death - the slide on grippers must pay for their crimes. I just got some Selle Italia Eterna grips that look similar to some of the Brooks ones. They're quite badly designed: the grips themselves and metal end caps need to be bolted on separately (2 different allen key sizes, ofc.) The end caps are held on by the end of the bolt pushing against, and bending, a tiny metal shim, which pushes against the handlebar. Just seems overengineered and unnecessarily fiddly, especially if you need to remove/reinstall them.
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Jun 12, 2021 12:42
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I my experience, hairspray can work quick, but it breaks down over time and turns into a lubricant. I prefer dry with zip ties, a compressor, or alcohol. Depending on grip type, the alcohol might take longer to dry than hair spray, but it lasts longer. The higher % the better. I've swapped the same set of grips as many as 5 times with no impact on reusability.
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Jun 12, 2021 14:40
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:I got sent a card of 12 speed Eagle master links instead of 12 speed road/AXS links. They look the same from what I can see without opening the pack but the SRAM site says they’re different. Anyone know what the actual difference is? The plates are definitely a different shape and definitely not the same width.
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Jun 12, 2021 19:54
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Anyone here have experience of 8 speed Miche Primato cassettes on Campagnolo exadrive hubs? It's the only new cassette you can buy for them. I think the lockring is loosening when I ride it and it ends up feeling like I have a chain skipping on worn cassette. Both are new. The Miche lockring was trash so I'm using the original campy one and tightening it to the tight as hell spec of 50nm. I haven't tried locktite yet.
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Jun 14, 2021 19:32
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Havana Affair posted:Anyone here have experience of 8 speed Miche Primato cassettes on Campagnolo exadrive hubs? It's the only new cassette you can buy for them. I think the lockring is loosening when I ride it and it ends up feeling like I have a chain skipping on worn cassette. Both are new. The Miche lockring was trash so I'm using the original campy one and tightening it to the tight as hell spec of 50nm. I haven't tried locktite yet. I've used the 9spd Miche cassette with no issues, fwiw.
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Jun 14, 2021 19:37
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