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Blackhawk posted:I couldn't see a mountaineering thread so I figured this would be the most appropriate place to post about alpine climbing. More of this! You've got a good eye for photos. alnilam posted:That's so cool! I've always wanted to try some light mountaineering, don't wanna do anything crazy just some easy (relatively speaking) but slightly technical ones. I just need to find an experienced group to teach me and then find a weekend away from the toddler Where are you based geographically? You need to find that group and pick up those guileful mountain skills so you can keep up with your kid in a few years time. Mountaineering content: A friend got me into trail running through lockdown and I'm now repaying the favour... sort of. We climbed something called the Cyfrwy arete a couple of weeks ago which is about 5.2 in American money. Moving together with a 20m scrambling rope, a few cams, a handful of wires and sling or two. It's a dreamy way to cover mountain terrain. 
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Jun 15, 2021 23:05
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Endjinneer posted:More of this! You've got a good eye for photos. I moved to the Willamette valley in Oregon last year so I'm definitely in a better place to learn than i used to be (western PA) I backpack, i climb, i feel like I'm well positioned to do okay at it, I'm just not gonna attempt without people who know their poo poo
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Jun 15, 2021 23:30
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alnilam posted:I moved to the Willamette valley in Oregon last year so I'm definitely in a better place to learn than i used to be (western PA) I did a 10 day guided mountaineering course about 8 years ago now which was great as an introduction but I've hardly done it since until now. The roadblocks for me were: A) Getting the gear, it's pretty expensive to get into because it's basically everything needed for trad climbing + winter hiking + a bunch more very specific gear B) You need people of comparable skill to go with C) It's very weather/condition dependent and seasonal That said now that I've accumulated enough gear, have some people I can go with and live reasonably close to some mountains there's nothing really in my way any more. It's quite different to when I used to go outdoor sport climbing fairly regularly, you spend a lot more time hiking in/out to your objective, spend a lot of time moving in the dark (either morning or night) and have to think a lot more about the conditions and how they're likely to change throughout the day.
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Jun 16, 2021 00:05
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Endjinneer posted:More of this! You've got a good eye for photos. Simulclimbing easy terrain is SO MUCH FUN.
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Jun 16, 2021 01:53
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It does look like crazy fun. I need to try that. Just the word simulclimbing is awesome. The more I climb and the harder I climb, the more I find I want to climb easy stuff in a great location all day since type 2 fun is good and all, but laid back fun is good too.
KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 12:37 on Jun 16, 2021 |
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Jun 16, 2021 12:23
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alnilam posted:I moved to the Willamette valley in Oregon last year so I'm definitely in a better place to learn than i used to be (western PA) These people might be helpful? https://aacbackyard.org/oregonsection Clubs can be a powerful force for good. The worst that'll happen is you'll meet some weirdos. The best that can happen is they will subsidise training for you, give you cheap accommodation and literally give you money to go on climbing trips.
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Jun 16, 2021 21:26
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Went outside for the first time this morning (just some super easy TR since neither of us had been outside before) we wanted to work on some stuff closer to our limit, but I had to get to work. Here's a photo of the first outdoor climb I've ever done: 
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Jun 17, 2021 18:22
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Slimy Hog posted:Went outside for the first time this morning (just some super easy TR since neither of us had been outside before) we wanted to work on some stuff closer to our limit, but I had to get to work. Nice! Looks like a fun climb
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Jun 17, 2021 18:47
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Slimy Hog posted:Went outside for the first time this morning (just some super easy TR since neither of us had been outside before) we wanted to work on some stuff closer to our limit, but I had to get to work. way to go.
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Jun 17, 2021 19:20
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Thinking of getting some Scarpa Vapor Vs for my second shoe after trying on a few different pairs today. Does anybody have them or have strong opinions on them?
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Jun 18, 2021 03:58
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:Thinking of getting some Scarpa Vapor Vs for my second shoe after trying on a few different pairs today. Does anybody have them or have strong opinions on them? I have a pair. Seem pretty good. They are in the rotation with muira vs, tc pro, tanaya tanta. I mostly use the vapors for easy to moderate outside climbing but might make them into my gym shoes at the tanta's are 2 resoles in and probably not worth a 3rd.
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Jun 18, 2021 05:16
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My main gym opened a 4th location in my city. It's an outdoor bouldering gym. That's a really fun concept. Very few things are as chill as gym climbing outdoor in the sun with a nice breeze. It's even justifiable to climb shirtless without being a douche! This is all glorious. Vapor V talk : I found them ok, but they are super stiff. Would be cool for small chips routes and such. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Jun 19, 2021 |
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Jun 19, 2021 01:10
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I have Vapor laces and love em. Had the Vs before. My big dumb wide foot fits perfectly in the laced version and I can tighten it up just right.
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Jun 19, 2021 02:30
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KingColliwog posted:My main gym opened a 4th location in my city. It's an outdoor bouldering gym. That's a really fun concept. Very few things are as chill as gym climbing outdoor in the sun with a nice breeze. It's even justifiable to climb shirtless without being a douche! This is all glorious. god i wish we had this
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Jun 19, 2021 22:41
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Verviticus posted:god i wish we had this same
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Jun 19, 2021 23:16
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I really liked everything about the Vapor Vs except the toe box but otherwise they seemed like good shoes.
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Jun 19, 2021 23:39
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Sometimes I wonder how my city of 500k can justify all of their expenses! I haven't had the chance to go later in the day, but they have a fire pit and that is probably pretty fun too. Just to add insult to injury here's a little clip to show what it looks like (and my perfect dad bod) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYhKkbu7hbw KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Jun 19, 2021 |
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Jun 19, 2021 23:40
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I decided on La Sportiva Miuras instead after trying them, Instincts, and Vapors in a smaller size. My stupid high instep wouldn't even let me get into Instincts.. I went to the gym and played around on the spray wall today to see how well my ankle would hold up and took some falls without pain, but some pivoting on foot holds was a bit weird feeling. Being on the wall feels pretty great in these shoes, except for some pain in my toes pushing up against the inside of the shoe. I managed to wear them for about 45 minutes before they had to come off... It's a far cry from my comfy Scarpa Helix pair which I could wear forever but I feel so much more precise already I got them at MEC so if they don't break in as well as I hope I'll just return them. bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Jun 20, 2021 |
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Jun 20, 2021 00:46
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:I decided on La Sportiva Miuras instead after trying them, Instincts, and Vapors in a smaller size. My stupid high instep wouldn't even let me get into Instincts.. I went to the gym and played around on the spray wall today to see how well my ankle would hold up and took some falls without pain, but some pivoting on foot holds was a bit weird feeling. Miuras become more comfortable once you break them in, which for me takes about five or six sessions (I've gone through a few pairs). I can wear them for a full session now (90+ minutes) as long as I don't walk around the gym too much.
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Jun 20, 2021 03:08
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Would a class 2 or 3 mountain in winter be a good intro to mountaineering? I have loads and loads of backpacking experience but have never done any technical work outside of some work-related rappelling courses and occasional rock climbing.
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Jun 20, 2021 06:56
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bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m posted:I decided on La Sportiva Miuras instead after trying them, Instincts, and Vapors in a smaller size. My stupid high instep wouldn't even let me get into Instincts.. I went to the gym and played around on the spray wall today to see how well my ankle would hold up and took some falls without pain, but some pivoting on foot holds was a bit weird feeling. i did the exact same thing, went from helixes to muiras and i couldnt handle them. i think my toes are too wide, so i ended up with these https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5044-822/Finale-Rock-Shoes they're basically helixes in that they feel like running shoes, but they actually have some rubber on the heel so you can heel hook things without agony
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Jun 20, 2021 20:58
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For me it's moreso that my middle and index toes are longer than my big toe, so they press on the roof of the shoe since they are curled up, which I think should be alright as the toe box expands a bit to fit my foot.
bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Jun 20, 2021 |
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Jun 20, 2021 22:15
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Woof Blitzer posted:Would a class 2 or 3 mountain in winter be a good intro to mountaineering? I have loads and loads of backpacking experience but have never done any technical work outside of some work-related rappelling courses and occasional rock climbing. Depends on how winter-y the winters are near you. Some winter travel is extremely complex and dangerous, requiring tons of extra experience, gear, and education (particularly regarding avalanche). Some winter travel is just a little colder than summer with shorter daylight hours. Next to impossible to generalize.
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Jun 20, 2021 22:40
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Feet also shrink over time as your cram them into smaller and smaller sizes, some pain isnt bad in shoes as long as you dont plan on wearing them for hours together
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Jun 20, 2021 23:28
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gohuskies posted:Depends on how winter-y the winters are near you. Some winter travel is extremely complex and dangerous, requiring tons of extra experience, gear, and education (particularly regarding avalanche). Some winter travel is just a little colder than summer with shorter daylight hours. Next to impossible to generalize. Sierra Nevada range around Sequoia. The one I scouted has a 900ft prominence. https://www.peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=2763
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Jun 20, 2021 23:47
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Woof Blitzer posted:Sierra Nevada range around Sequoia. The one I scouted has a 900ft prominence. Looks like Crampon, Ice Axe, and Avalanche Training to me.
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Jun 21, 2021 01:01
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After talking a bit with climbing friends about what type of pain I get and when with these new shoes, I decided to return them and try out Vapor Vs instead Also MEC apparently is getting rid of their return policy and it's becoming 30 days instead so I never really have a reason to shop there again bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Jun 21, 2021 |
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Jun 21, 2021 22:10
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Any climbers have good advice about tennis elbow?
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Jun 24, 2021 02:17
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Mezzanon posted:Any climbers have good advice about tennis elbow? YES. I've dealt with it on and off over the years. You're training too hard for your current tendon strength, it is 100% an overuse injury and you need to learn to recognize the warning signs before it gets bad. Now assuming you're already dealing with it the best rehab I've found is to get a Therabar (I have the teal one) and to do the exercises that they recommend for it. In the meantime you need to avoid any sort of climbing that antagonizes it. For me that means I need to switch to climbing exclusively juggy overhung stuff below my grade and make sure I don't chicken wing if I get tired.
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Jun 24, 2021 02:38
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Ive had golfers elbow in my left arm. I had to take a couple months off and now I climb with a little elbow brace for it that seems to help.
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Jun 24, 2021 02:42
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Mons Hubris posted:I’ve had golfer’s elbow in my left arm. I had to take a couple months off and now I climb with a little elbow brace for it that seems to help. Yeah if it's bad there's a brace you can get that's basically an elastic strap with a hard puck on it. The puck sits just before the tendon attachment point and takes some stress off the attachment point, which can help with recovery. I used one of those the first time I had such issues, along with the therabar. It definitely helps, but it's not a magic pill or anything.
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Jun 24, 2021 02:48
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Theres a release exercise you can do which also helps, its basically pressing into the inflamed tendon for a while (I used to do this before buying a massage gun, which takes all the effort out) https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MibGm_T62AI
Ubiquitus fucked around with this message at 04:41 on Jun 24, 2021 |
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Jun 24, 2021 04:11
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armorer posted:YES. I've dealt with it on and off over the years. You're training too hard for your current tendon strength, it is 100% an overuse injury and you need to learn to recognize the warning signs before it gets bad. Im lucky enough that Im not going through it right now, but I do remember it from the last time I was climbing and I wanted to take some preventative steps if I could. Using the therabar is a great plan, thanks for reminding me!
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Jun 24, 2021 08:36
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Mezzanon posted:I’m lucky enough that I’m not going through it right now, but I do remember it from the last time I was climbing and I wanted to take some preventative steps if I could. Using the therabar is a great plan, thanks for reminding me! I forgot to mention that regularly doing pushups (or dips, tricep exersize really) is also a good preventative measure. I took to doing 3 sets of 10 after every climbing session a few years back and haven't had elbow pain nearly as bad as the first time ever since then.
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Jun 24, 2021 10:52
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I didn't realize that a shoe resole takes a month or two; I guess I need to go buy a 2nd pair of shoes
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Jun 24, 2021 19:08
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After a month and a half of not climbing, I feel bad at climbing now. I was always bad at climbing, but now moreso. And my fingers feel delicate. And my big toe hurts from new shoes.
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Jun 24, 2021 20:53
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Mezzanon posted:Im lucky enough that Im not going through it right now, but I do remember it from the last time I was climbing and I wanted to take some preventative steps if I could. Using the therabar is a great plan, thanks for reminding me! Use a therabar regularly. Do antagonist exercise training Check nerve glides and such to make sure you don't simply have nerve entrapment which can give similar symptoms. If climbing aggravates it stop and take a day of rest. Real complete rest for more than a couple weeks isn't going to do much for you, it'll just come back as soon as you start climbing again. You mostly need to get stronger, but make sure you don't aggravate it. The climbing doctor has a good rehab program that you can get from climbing beta for pretty cheap. Dave Mcleod also has a bunch of good info on the subject. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Jun 25, 2021 |
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Jun 24, 2021 22:06
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When y'all say therabar, if I google that I get something called the Tyler Twist - is that what you mean?
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Jun 24, 2021 23:58
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alnilam posted:When y'all say therabar, if I google that I get something called the Tyler Twist - is that what you mean? Yeah, the tyler twist is one of the exercise you do on the therabar. Depending on your problem (medial or lateral epicondylitis) you could want to do the reverse tyler twist. There are other exercises you can do with it, but that's the big one. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Jun 25, 2021 |
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Jun 25, 2021 00:33
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I have been increasing the number of dips and other tricep exercises, so Im glad to hear thats a step in the right direction (I also lost 35 pounds, which has honestly been great for climbing)
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Jun 25, 2021 03:32
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