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Is the bead still easily letting air under it? Have you tried carefully seating it asking the entire rim before blasting?
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Jun 18, 2021 15:29
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The battery cover fell off my stages crank arm power meter. I emailed stages to see if they have replacements but in the mean time does anyone have any ideas for getting the battery pressed in hard enough to work? I put some electrical tape across the back but since the battery doesn’t sit flush it didn’t hold it in tight enough. Perhaps I could wrap the tape all the way around the crank and put something under it to hold the battery down?
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Jun 19, 2021 17:22
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Dren posted:The battery cover fell off my stages crank arm power meter. I emailed stages to see if they have replacements but in the mean time does anyone have any ideas for getting the battery pressed in hard enough to work? I put some electrical tape across the back but since the battery doesn’t sit flush it didn’t hold it in tight enough. Perhaps I could wrap the tape all the way around the crank and put something under it to hold the battery down? some cardboard cut to size for the tape to push on
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Jun 19, 2021 18:23
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Cleaned my drivetrain today, went to put the bike on the trainer, noticed a small bolt drop out when doing it, then my derailleur fell off by the hanger! Looks like I need a new hanger as the threads seem a little stripped on one of the holes. Is the wheels mfg 176 equivalent to a trek 315464? The more I look at it, the more I think it’s been built with the wrong bolts. Should these bolts go further in (eg should they be longer)? There’s no point me buying a new hanger if it’ll strip the threads again! 
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Jun 19, 2021 18:51
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Dren posted:The battery cover fell off my stages crank arm power meter. I emailed stages to see if they have replacements but in the mean time does anyone have any ideas for getting the battery pressed in hard enough to work? I put some electrical tape across the back but since the battery doesn’t sit flush it didn’t hold it in tight enough. Perhaps I could wrap the tape all the way around the crank and put something under it to hold the battery down? I got a replacement cover for my Stages power meter from eBay for a few quid. You want to make sure that the inside doesn't get wet.
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Jun 19, 2021 21:25
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Pantsmaster Bill posted:Cleaned my drivetrain today, went to put the bike on the trainer, noticed a small bolt drop out when doing it, then my derailleur fell off by the hanger! The rule of thumb is the depth of the thread should be one and a half times the diameter of the bolt. It is doubtful that they paid extra to get bolts exactly the depth of the frame. The wheel axle should take the load and the two small bolts only align the hanger, It is possible the quick release wasn't tight enough. For peace of mind, you could buy longer bolts and cut them to length, either way I would use some Loctite on them.
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Jun 19, 2021 21:37
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Those bolts just hold and align the derailleur when the wheel is off, they look fine.
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Jun 20, 2021 05:01
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guaranteed beer money, or the low chance for more beer money? easy pick 100%
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Jun 20, 2021 05:15
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Hey guys, so I'm ressurecting my spare ancient Decathlon hybrid for a friend. Simple question. It's got a 38mm tyre and tube on the front wheel, and the tread is completely knackered. I've got a spare 700 x 32 tyre in V. good condition. Putting a 32 on it (with a 32 tube as well obvs.)is going to be fine? Not to small for the wheel to fit properly or cause other issues with the tube. Thx.
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Jun 20, 2021 12:18
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My right pedal just fell off, leaving the shaft behind in the crank. Most disturbing. They’re Shimano Deore XT PD-T8000 pedals, meant to be long lasting touring pedals - only had them a year or two. I thought they were meant to be sealed units. Can this be fixed, or do I need a new set of pedals? Not sure if anything actually snapped off or not.    wooger fucked around with this message at 14:33 on Jun 20, 2021 |
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Jun 20, 2021 14:28
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wooger posted:My right pedal just fell off, leaving the shaft behind in the crank. Most disturbing. No idea, but keep me posted- I've had the same pedals for about 2.5 years now, abused them through thousands of miles of nasty mud and gravel and they still spin perfectly. I keep recommending them to my friends who go through a set of Crank Bros pedals a year but maybe I shouldn't!
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Jun 20, 2021 14:43
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It looks like the locknut probably came off, take a look at this park tool video, they show the whole spindle taken apart at ~3 minutes. I'd unscrew the part that's still in the pedal body and if all the parts are still there, just put it back together with some new grease. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVmSrsnVUGI
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Jun 20, 2021 14:43
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Deptfordx posted:Hey guys, so I'm ressurecting my spare ancient Decathlon hybrid for a friend. You’ll need to measure the inner width of the wheel to be 100% sure. It’ll likely be fine unless your hybrid wheel has an uncommonly wide inner width. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0202/9884/t/11/assets/Dropbar_Tire_Rim_Compatibility.jpg?1438
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Jun 20, 2021 16:20
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FireTora posted:It looks like the locknut probably came off, take a look at this park tool video, they show the whole spindle taken apart at ~3 minutes. I'd unscrew the part that's still in the pedal body and if all the parts are still there, just put it back together with some new grease. Thanks, that video makes sense, but doesn’t explain how the whole pedal body fell off in the street. And I’m not sure there’s anything else left in the pedal body to re-attach other than grease. Will have a poke around.
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Jun 20, 2021 19:24
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wooger posted:Thanks, that video makes sense, but doesn’t explain how the whole pedal body fell off in the street. And I’m not sure there’s anything else left in the pedal body to re-attach other than grease. Will have a poke around. The little nut that he's tightening in the thumbnail is the lock nut that holds the assembly together. It's screwed onto the axle. If those 2 nuts came undone the bearing 'sleeve' can come right off and that is what is screwed into the pedal body. That ring that is still on your axle is probably the seal that the grease is pushing through in the video.
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Jun 20, 2021 19:35
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This morning my rear gears started going crazy, and then two seconds later the chain snapped. Here's the damage:  It looks like a piece of string somehow found its way into the lower jockey wheel, which then seized. The rear derailleur is now very bent out of alignment. So this is not repairable, right? I need a new rear derailleur, and do I also need a new hanger? I've not worked on this area of the bike before. This is an 8 speed bike, which originally had Shimano 2300 shifters. It seems that there are no 8 speed road derailleurs at all on market. Would a mountain bike part (eg. https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-acera-m360-rear-mech-78-speed) work?
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Jun 22, 2021 12:37
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Mountain will work. Nobody has a Claris rear mech available?
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Jun 22, 2021 13:12
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Pretty sure the hanger needs replacing too.
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Jun 22, 2021 14:11
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If I had to move a bike that dirty, I'd find a way off too. 
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Jun 22, 2021 15:39
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If you change your chain and not that old cassette, it'll skip under load, you need to do both at the same time.
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Jun 22, 2021 15:59
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SimonSays posted:If you change your chain and not that old cassette, it'll skip under load, you need to do both at the same time. Not if you have been changing your chain before it wears down too much. I've got over 10,000 miles on the cassette and chainrings and have gone thru 3 sets of chains. I use the Park tool and change the chain as soon as possible when it gets to 0.5" on the indicator.
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Jun 22, 2021 16:03
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VideoGameVet posted:Not if you have been changing your chain before it wears down too much. I've got over 10,000 miles on the cassette and chainrings and have gone thru 3 sets of chains. Sure but that cassette doesn't look fresh and you change and clean your chains more that anyone else here
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Jun 22, 2021 16:33
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SimonSays posted:Sure but that cassette doesn't look fresh and you change and clean your chains more that anyone else here I'm still new to bikes, but what about that cassette doesn't look fresh? To me, it looks like a black cassette (can they even come in black?) but doesn't look worn.
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Jun 22, 2021 17:33
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poemdexter posted:I'm still new to bikes, but what about that cassette doesn't look fresh? To me, it looks like a black cassette (can they even come in black?) but doesn't look worn. It's honestly just hard/impossible to tell from that picture. It's just a reasonable assumption that the chain and cassette are both worn because it's an 8speed commuter bike that looks like it's lived a hard life.
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Jun 22, 2021 17:45
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bicievino posted:It's honestly just hard/impossible to tell from that picture. 100% agree it's lived a good, hard life.
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Jun 22, 2021 17:50
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SimonSays posted:Sure but that cassette doesn't look fresh and you change and clean your chains more that anyone else here I do clean the chain, but I also get a few 1000 miles per chain because there are 3-chain lengths on the Recumbent. And I run SuperSecret chain stuff which apparently is as good as they say it is. At least in terms of quietness and apparent low friction (crank spin test). Also it helps that I ride in San Diego and Orange Counties, California.
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Jun 22, 2021 17:53
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I'm having issues with phantom shifts (not sure how else to describe it, it shifts without input from me) on the cassette on my road bike - I'm not sure what's going on here, but if I apply pressure to the pedals, it will often just jump to a smaller cog. It has been disgusting and dirty and rainy and humid here so the bike is very dirty - will a clean and lube of the drive train help out here, or is this rear derailleur thing I should take to the shop. The bike is relatively new (bought in January), so I still am within my window of free adjustments.
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Jun 22, 2021 21:20
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Sab0921 posted:I'm having issues with phantom shifts (not sure how else to describe it, it shifts without input from me) on the cassette on my road bike - I'm not sure what's going on here, but if I apply pressure to the pedals, it will often just jump to a smaller cog. The cable has stretched, as is expected from new cables, and you just need it adjusted.
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Jun 22, 2021 21:40
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Yeah just head back to the bike shop to get it tuned, that's normal. If you wanna do it yourself check park tool, as always: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkZxPIZ1ngY
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Jun 22, 2021 22:05
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To add, do not let them sell you anything during your 'free adjustment'.
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Jun 22, 2021 22:42
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Thanks all
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Jun 22, 2021 23:51
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Looking for some advice: New bike - Shimano Deore (MT500) brakes on RT54 rotors. Things were fine for the first 50-100 kilometers, no super technical riding, pavement and light trail. Gave the bike a wash, just water, no soap or other chemicals - let it air dry. Ever since, it's been doing the brake-scream. Noticed that the brake was rubbing very lightly. I started by trying the quick alignment: loosen the caliber bolts, brake, re-tighten. No change. I tried resetting the pistons - insert screwdriver between the pads, twist - no change. I've attempted the slightly modified version: the above, but with some paper folded around the rotor. It helped with the rubbing - but upon application, the scream is still there. I'm a little baffled at possible causes at this point - for brand-new brakes, is it plausible that they need to be resurfaced already?
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Jun 25, 2021 18:02
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Might be minor contamination from the cleaning solution you used. Pull the pads out wipe em down with a clean paper towel clean the rotors with isopropyl alcohol and reassemble. Edit: something like Swiss stop disc brake silencer spray might also work but in practice this stuff is kinda meh. If that doesn't work your choices might be to replace the pads and maybe rotors, or live with it. My semi metallic pads infused with road salt on my commuter make amazingly terrible sounds but at least I don't need a bell. EvilJoven fucked around with this message at 18:13 on Jun 25, 2021 |
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Jun 25, 2021 18:09
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EvilJoven posted:Might be minor contamination from the cleaning solution you used. Pull the pads out wipe em down with a clean paper towel clean the rotors with isopropyl alcohol and reassemble. I'll have to hit it with some isopropyl this weekend and see if that helps - thanks for the suggestion - I've been fearing that the next step is to hunt down a centerlock wrench and actually yank the rotor off and hit it with some sandpaper. That or just live with it for the like 5 weeks it'll take to get it into a shop for service.
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Jun 25, 2021 18:30
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Cuntpunch posted:I'll have to hit it with some isopropyl this weekend and see if that helps - thanks for the suggestion - I've been fearing that the next step is to hunt down a centerlock wrench and actually yank the rotor off and hit it with some sandpaper. That or just live with it for the like 5 weeks it'll take to get it into a shop for service. you don't need to take the rotor off to sand paper it down, just get a small piece and scrub both sides of the braking area lightly. you're not really taking off a bunch of material or doing anything crazy just roughing up the surface enough to help bed the pads and rotor in again. I'd do the whole thing...take out the pads, clean with iso alcohol, clean the rotor with iso alcohol, then scuff up both the pads and the rotor with some sandpaper then re-assemble and re-bed the pads
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Jun 25, 2021 19:03
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Levitate posted:you don't need to take the rotor off to sand paper it down, just get a small piece and scrub both sides of the braking area lightly. That makes sense, in a few quick teach-myself-via-Youtube videos, the approach to properly resurfacing stuff seemed to normally be to do a full disassembly - pull the pads, pull the rotor, work on them separately and then re-assemble. That's super helpful to know that the rotor stuff can be done in-situ! And while I'm laying flat and exposing my sheer ignorance - what in the *gently caress* is the toothed plastic sickle tool that seems to crop up in a pair with a brush? I don't even know the name for it. Cuntpunch fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Jun 25, 2021 |
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Jun 25, 2021 20:31
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My method has always been to spray the pads liberally with alcohol. Sand them down on a flat surface while still wet. A sidewalk honestly works really well for this. Spray with iso again to remove and sand paper or sidewalk dust. Then rub the pads together until they form a light paste. Install them with that light paste, it helps bed in the rotor.
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Jun 25, 2021 20:41
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Cuntpunch posted:And while I'm laying flat and exposing my sheer ignorance - what in the *gently caress* is the toothed plastic sickle tool that seems to crop up in a pair with a brush? I don't even know the name for it. Cassette cleaning brush. Every brand has one. https://www.amazon.com/Muc-Off-204-Claw-Brush/dp/B0045ZWU8Q
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Jun 25, 2021 20:47
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kimbo305 posted:Cassette cleaning brush. Every brand has one. I get the brush part, it's the teeth-that-don't-fit-anything that I don't quite understand.
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Jun 25, 2021 20:52
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The teeth fit inside 8psd cogs and rings. They are also sometimes useful for dirt in and around bottom brackets.
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Jun 25, 2021 20:58
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