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Jim Silly-Balls posted:My friend…… Now you need to top it with one of the smaller single clamp ones
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Jun 19, 2021 21:29
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Steakandchips posted:My Honda CBF125 2014 could do 100kph after about 10 minutes on the flat. I was constantly being overtaken on that thing. If there is no headwind and I get a good tuck going my Bantam tops out just a hair over 40 mph.
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Jun 19, 2021 21:36
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Slavvy posted:My cbr125 could do an indicated 130 after considerable delay but that was a water cooled supersport with a full fat 13hp powerhouse Severely disappointed in my lawn tractor that has more horsepower but can’t get to 130. At least not yet 
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Jun 20, 2021 23:34
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Martytoof posted:Severely disappointed in my lawn tractor that has more horsepower but can’t get to 130. Exhibit A: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3P1p6vF_CY Exhibit B: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZukqQw5Xlo
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Jun 20, 2021 23:38
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Found an oil leak coming from ~somewhere~ towards the back of the engine. What I'm going to do about it: absolutely nothing. I'm 90% certain it's just the drive sprocket seal weeping a bit while it's running, it doesn't appear to be leaking at all when the engine is cold.
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Jun 21, 2021 14:40
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A thing was brought home after a 1000km/600mile round trip. Yeah, the sidecar will be painted.  The positioning of the struts on the side car frame was as hoped, pretty good. The sidecar frame was originally for some variant of royal enfield, so it has an extra 5th strut hat's not that adjustable. The grey one, see that its only pivot able forward and backward, not in angle towards the bike. I'll see if that can be modified a bit, but it's not strictly needed.  The rear arms looks workable too. There are good mount points to the frame for both the lower and higher strut, using either clamps in the kit, or existing bolt holes for the foot rests.  I'll grab a universal mount kit to have some strut lengths to play with, frame clamps and the proper castellated nuts + security holed bolts for both quick disconnect + secure mounting. 
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Jun 21, 2021 21:28
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It never ends does it? I took the GS and Oldwing out on Saturday. The oldwing apparently is not charging, which I found out when I killed the engine at a long wait for a one way construction light, and it wouldn't crank after. Luckily I could pop start it. The battery is a Napa Gold and only a year old so it should not be the problem. Time to get out the Fluke... The GS announced that the front brake master cylinder needed a rebuild when I backed it out and the lever was slow to release. It's not leaking and seems to work fine, but I believe this is a sign that the seals are falling apart internally. Stupid rebuild kits are 2x the price of a Goldwing rebuild kit. I could get a complete generic ebay master cylinder and lever for half the price of the kit; it's tempting but asking the airhead experts would probably cause a riot due to "not OEM".
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Jun 22, 2021 06:45
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It seems like generic exhaust rubber strapping is as thin on the ground here as Robertson screws everywhere else, so I got an innertube and cut a strip out to sandwich in between the metal strap and the rubber. Even that added too much to the diameter, so instead I took the old rubber inside, washed off the thin film of dirt that had built up under it, scuffed it a bit with some sandpaper, and reinstalled. And that seems to be holding firmly. I also replaced the two rubber bearings that the strap bolts to, so it doesn't wobble around as much, as well as all the springs holding the exhaust tubing together. Some of the new springs were a tad loose, so I tweaked the loops they hook onto with a pliers. May have to write somewhere to remind myself to get a few 75mm springs instead of 80 if I ever need to.
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Jun 23, 2021 04:40
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New bike day! Picked it up from my dads, rode it 1km to my house, let it have a nap trying to ride it down the wet clay embankment to the back of the house. … now I gotta work out how to get it out.
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Jun 23, 2021 09:32
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Aw it's just pining for the tarmac
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Jun 23, 2021 16:54
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Thought I would post a quick update on my Magna! Got the new starter in and installed and it works! Spins very fast and starts right up! Went on a short shakedown ride to get gas and test my new handlebars. They make the bike feel very different. More aggressive somehow. I was riding like a hooligan! They're a bit too short to feel just right, so I got a pair of risers and am gonna install those today and see how it feels.
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Jun 24, 2021 15:55
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gileadexile posted:Thought I would post a quick update on my Magna!  How does it sound?
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Jun 25, 2021 13:25
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Gorson posted:
https://youtu.be/C4htxpbuA10 That was a tunnel run I did this past January. If anyone cares, I guess I can do a startup video tomorrow.
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Jun 26, 2021 03:58
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AnnoyBot posted:Goldwing charging stuff After a full charge, I put a meter on it and the voltage went up when revving and down when the headlight was on. So it's charging, but somehow doesn't have the juice to maintain with the headlight on any more. The electric pump draws about 15w, so that might be pushing it over the edge. Also halfway through the ride the gas gauge dropped from full-ish to empty, which is odd. As I said before- it's always something.
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Jun 26, 2021 04:37
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What are the voltage numbers you saw? You might have one stator coil down, it's worth testing the stator. The gas gauge might be a symptom of your battery going flat as you ride. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Jun 26, 2021 |
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Jun 26, 2021 04:42
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 81' C70 passport update. Tires are on order along with a new chain and rear sprocket. The new old battery is working great and identified an issue in the hacked wiring. The battery was dry never filled with a date code of August 1980 filled it with acid and put it on a slow charge and shockingly it works. Replaced the headlight with one that was purchased back in the 80's and swapped out the blown signal lights. This bike had started the process of being made to split in two so it has a bunch of spliced in connectors in the harness. One of these let go and was stopping the lights from working. So once I get my hands on some solder splices the connectors are going away and the harness is getting restored. The starter would not operate so it was removed. Found a broken spring on one of the brushes. A bit of bendology later and the brush spring is working again and the starter works off the bike. Checked the solenoid and voltage was getting to it when the button was pressed but it was not energizing. Checked the coil it was fine, checked the neutral switch and it was bad so it got jumpered to ground. SO the electric starter works but it is barely needed since you can turn this over by hand with the kickstarter and it fires up. So just tires and it should pass a safety. Still have to get the registration figured out and the owner is going to go write his M1, he is a bit worried since he hasn't had to write for a drivers license since he was 16 and he is retired now.
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Jun 27, 2021 00:16
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https://youtu.be/_WU6TBl_1Zc Warmish startup. Rattle is cam tensioners, which I'm told isn't an indication of immediate destruction, just annoying and embarassing.
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Jun 27, 2021 05:28
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Lately I've been mostly working on organization / trying to buy the townhouse I'm in so that I don't have to find another place to live. But a lull in all that and I Finally have had a chance to work on my Magna more. I have finally swapped all the springs and washers from the VFR head to the Magna heads. Also Partzilla has the head gasket in stock so I can start the process of putting the VFR engine back together. I had to use a couple of the VFR valves as a couple of the Magna exhaust valves were bent. I found lapping them to be less than fun, but after doing a test with water and compressed air, it looks like the seal is good. I will do the same test tomorrow with the second head. Then it's probably back to tetrising my garage but I'm really happy to get progress and move on to the part where I am actually putting things together.
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Jun 27, 2021 06:55
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Slavvy posted:What are the voltage numbers you saw? You might have one stator coil down, it's worth testing the stator. I think it was around 12.4 at idle. Never above 13 when I revved it. Definitely need to check the stator.
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Jun 29, 2021 08:51
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AnnoyBot posted:I think it was around 12.4 at idle. Never above 13 when I revved it. Definitely need to check the stator. Ok so you either have a bad regulator/rectifier or a bad stator or both. Or do oldwings have terrible weaksauce charging systems that I'm unaware of?
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Jun 29, 2021 09:21
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Slavvy posted:Ok so you either have a bad regulator/rectifier or a bad stator or both. For an old bike (and a Honda) the system is pretty solid and isn't known to regularly fail. A stator replacement on the old Goldwings is a motor-out job, so hopefully it's just the reg/rec.
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Jun 29, 2021 11:54
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Oldwing charging is just fine. It’s the connector from the stator into the harness that heats up like crazy, burns up then takes the stator out with it. If you snip that connector out and directly solder the wires you’re golden.
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Jun 29, 2021 13:42
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 I've had some time to play around with monomer liquid/acrylic powder for repairs. It's pretty great stuff but has limitations. What the gently caress are you talking about Gorson? This stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Mia-Secret-A...5010940&sr=8-10 If you've heard of Plastex it's chemically the same thing though I've never used Plastex so I'm not sure how that stuff is applied. It's similar to working with fiberglass resin minus the fabric. With fiberglass resin you have the resin and a hardener which when mixed start the chemical things. With this you have a monomer liquid and acrylic (plastic) powder that you mix and have a limited time to apply before the reaction is complete. Being that it is literally a boutique item this stuff isn't cheap. It's used in custom fingernail shops and not much else. You'd want to go directly to the supplier to buy anything in quantity. However a little does go a long way and if you're smart and careful with it you won't need much. It works very simply by taking an amount of the liquid and an amount of the powder and mixing them together. I say "an amount" because I am still messing around with the details but it does not seem anywhere as picky as fiberglass resin. You can vary the amount of liquid and make it pourable, or you can make it thicker and glob it or attempt to mold it, but either way it will harden, and fast. Much faster than fiberglass resin. If you mix it way too thin it will remain tacky but you really have to thin it out. Very easy to work with, but you don't get much time. Mix quickly but mix well and get to work. IMO the best way to use this stuff is to pour it into premade molds and then bond those parts to the main part. I didn't have any molding material handy so I just used some cardboard with aluminum tape over it. It will not bond with metal, and does not like to bond with painted plastic. Bare plastic is best. Notes: 1. It's not very flexible but it is very strong. I'll be putting a single layer of fiberglass mat + resin on the tabs to give them some shear resistance. 2. You might be able to shred some fiberglass mat and add it to the monomer/powder mixture to create a stronger more flexible "polymer". Haven't tried this. The mat alone might even start the chemical process? I do not know I am not a motorcycle chemist. 3. When this stuff dries it looks like hard candy. DO NOT EAT! 4. Since it's nail boutique stuff it has a pinkish hue and smells fruity when you sand it. DO NOT EAT! 5. You can break down chunks of the solidified plastic with acetone and it turns back into a kind of crumbly material. Might be able to re-use this material with more monomer liquid. Doesn't appear edible so I won't give a warning. 6. 3D printing the tabs and then bonding them with the monomer/acrylic would be another way to go. Like I said this stuff has a very specific purpose. If you just want an ugly fix for broken plastic use some 2 part epoxy or Gorilla Glue. If you have a modern bike and you want it to be pretty just buy a new part from the factory. I would specifically only use this stuff to recreate broken or missing parts on NLA items like the Hawk GT cowl above.
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Jun 30, 2021 01:18
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I have an extremely similar situation on nazibike and am going to try your method with the aid of a person who does that kind of thing for a living, it's good to see they turned out strong.
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Jun 30, 2021 01:58
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Oldwing charging is just fine. It’s the connector from the stator into the harness that heats up like crazy, burns up then takes the stator out with it. Checked the resistance just now, looks good. Got continuity between coils, and no continuity to ground. I believe this is desired. The connector is definitely trashed, soldering might be a solution, but jiggling might also. We'll see. I'll start it in the morning and check the coil voltages. I've pulled the engine at least twice before, but really don't want to go through that again. My garage and wife are much less accommodating now than they were 10 years ago.
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Jun 30, 2021 09:17
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My understanding is there is no saving the OEM connector. You either replace it with one that can handle higher current or you directly solder the wires together
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Jun 30, 2021 13:48
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:My understanding is there is no saving the OEM connector. You either replace it with one that can handle higher current or you directly solder the wires together I would solder them together, and if the stator is dead would run brand new heavier gauge wire from the stator to the reg/rec when replacing it. Fix that problem forever. Too-thin wiring and overheating of that connection from stator to rr is the reason why many Honda charging systems failed in the 90's. A multimeter on the 3 wire from the stator with the bike running will tell the tale here. Should get something like 50V AC.
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Jun 30, 2021 16:36
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Slavvy posted:I have an extremely similar situation on nazibike and am going to try your method with the aid of a person who does that kind of thing for a living, it's good to see they turned out strong. Can confirm that it's very strong and the limit is your imagination and tolerance for nail salon fumes. I worry a bit about shatter resistance but it's far stronger than the 32 year old plastic that it is bonded to. Fiberglass resin has a little more flex to it and when laid over the top of this stuff with a layer of mat should make it virtually unbreakable. You could also embed a piece of fiberglass mat in between two pours of the plastic ala rebar in concrete, or just some strands of fiberglass into the pour.
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Jun 30, 2021 16:50
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Gorson posted:Can confirm that it's very strong and the limit is your imagination and tolerance for nail salon fumes. I worry a bit about shatter resistance but it's far stronger than the 32 year old plastic that it is bonded to. Fiberglass resin has a little more flex to it and when laid over the top of this stuff with a layer of mat should make it virtually unbreakable. You could also embed a piece of fiberglass mat in between two pours of the plastic ala rebar in concrete, or just some strands of fiberglass into the pour. Could epoxy resin be of any use for this stuff? It cures rock hard, not flexible, so I can definitely see why an acrylic resin might work better, but it's also a lot less expensive and is available in bulk.
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Jun 30, 2021 17:25
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Gorson posted:I would solder them together, and if the stator is dead would run brand new heavier gauge wire from the stator to the reg/rec when replacing it. Fix that problem forever. Too-thin wiring and overheating of that connection from stator to rr is the reason why many Honda charging systems failed in the 90's. I'm 90% certain the bike in question just has a blown rectifier but yeah, check the stator output. Checking coil resistance isn't definitive in my experience. Jazzzzz posted:Could epoxy resin be of any use for this stuff? It cures rock hard, not flexible, so I can definitely see why an acrylic resin might work better, but it's also a lot less expensive and is available in bulk. I've tried epoxy resin before, it's way too fragile and basically shatters from vibration if you try riding the bike.
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Jun 30, 2021 19:14
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Slavvy posted:I'm 90% certain the bike in question just has a blown rectifier but yeah, check the stator output. Checking coil resistance isn't definitive in my experience. I know resistance isn't definitive, I just don't want to piss off my neighbor with midnight 2500 RPM troubleshooting. I did the running test, got > 40 VAC at all poles. Looks like it's soldering time.
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Jun 30, 2021 22:12
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You'll just end up cutting them when you replace the rectifier.
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Jun 30, 2021 22:16
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Slavvy posted:I've tried epoxy resin before, it's way too fragile and basically shatters from vibration if you try riding the bike. You *can* get flexible epoxies but they're even more of a pain to deal with than conventional ones because the flexibility is entirely dependent on the mix and cure, so they're completely random if you're not doing them with some sort of automated mixer and applicator.
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Jul 1, 2021 00:23
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AnnoyBot posted:I know resistance isn't definitive, I just don't want to piss off my neighbor with midnight 2500 RPM troubleshooting. Stator leads are now soldered (badly). Voltage at the battery was 13.66 with the high beam, fan and electric fuel pump on, at about 2000 RPM. Big improvement. Test ride tomorrow.
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Jul 1, 2021 03:47
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Well I'll be, nice work!
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Jul 1, 2021 04:53
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Ready for another 100k. That's a good reminder to check that connection on my bike.
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Jul 1, 2021 12:31
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Nice work! The stator fix was a big help in the “peace of mind” department for me. It’s not fun to always be wondering “is the stator about to die” when you’re riding
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Jul 1, 2021 18:05
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I took a ride and the voltmeter stays near 14v when in motion, so that's good. It will be interesting to see how the headlight is when I get a chance to ride at night. The bogging is basically the same, so a working charging system didn't help that. Next step float height and checking various carb bits.
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Jul 2, 2021 03:48
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Before you pull the carbs take a piece of 1/4" fuel line (with a in-line filter if you want) and run it from the tank directly to the carb inlet on the right side, bypassing the pump and associated plumbing and let it gravity feed. I don't know if you've eliminated fuel delivery as a possibility yet but I doubt your floats are off. Do you have one cylinder not firing? One of the headers cooler than the others?
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Jul 2, 2021 13:51
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| # ? May 14, 2024 18:41 |
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I managed to stuff the big GSXR brake cylinder/lever onto the handle bars of the FZR600. It sorta kinda fits - at full lock the brake lever bumps into the speedometer and pushes it in a few millimeter (just enough to make the brake light light up, but nothing more) so it isn't great, but but good enough to ride to a parts place/bike scrapyard with. The little extendo pipe to convert a radial to an axial pump could easily be removed, and now the brake line is attached directly to the pump. I'm annoyed that this turns out to be more work than expected cause i really wanted to ride the bike this summer...
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Jul 4, 2021 13:05
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