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Corla Plankun
May 8, 2007

improve the lives of everyone
Interesting! There's a live oak that is probably too far to be relevant (~30 ft), and an unknowntree that is probably 20 ft away on the other side of the driveway, but no closer trees. Neither tree stretches all the way across the driveway so I assume the roots don't go under it.

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DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
Tree root systems can extend well beyond the extent of the canopy. Like, several times the radius.

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


We have an old table set we picked up for cheap and refinished a few months ago. One of the spindles holding the rear legs together pulled out the other week? What's the best way to fix this? Titebonding it back together didn't hold.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Corla Plankun posted:

Interesting! There's a live oak that is probably too far to be relevant (~30 ft), and an unknowntree that is probably 20 ft away on the other side of the driveway, but no closer trees. Neither tree stretches all the way across the driveway so I assume the roots don't go under it.

Live oak roots can grow up to 90 feet from the trunk of a large tree. In general, tree roots spread a long way.

Danhenge
Dec 16, 2005

brugroffil posted:

We have an old table set we picked up for cheap and refinished a few months ago. One of the spindles holding the rear legs together pulled out the other week? What's the best way to fix this? Titebonding it back together didn't hold.



There might be old glue in the joint? Or the paint job kept you from getting a secure bond? Did you clamp it somehow?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Corla Plankun posted:

My neighbor just informed me that we've got roots beginning to intrude into our line to the sewer. The only plants nearby are mine so one of these is probably the culprit. Are any of these easy to place blame on and/or rule out? I am not particularly attached to them so I don't mind pulling anything out but it would be a lot of work to depopulate the entire zone.




The sewer lines are running down the lawn (parallel to the two driveways) behind this cluster of plants.

(I know I should've ripped the dead stuff out ages ago after it died in the February freeze, but when I went to do it at the beginning of the summer there were tons of delightful little critters living in there so I'm letting the dead stuff stay until fall.)
It could be the crepe myrtle or juniper (moreso if it's actually an arborvitae or leyland cypress). The live oak might be the problem, but they're not usually really thirsty trees and I would rather pay $100 to get my neighbor's sewer line snaked every few years than cut down a big one. Do you know what the other, mystery tree is? Willows, silver maples, cottonwoods and elms in particular are notorious for getting in sewer lines.



brugroffil posted:

We have an old table set we picked up for cheap and refinished a few months ago. One of the spindles holding the rear legs together pulled out the other week? What's the best way to fix this? Titebonding it back together didn't hold.


Having fixed a bunch of chairs in my life, there is no 'good' way to fix that joint. The least bad way is epoxy. If you can clean the end of the spindle and the hole of old glue, that will help alot but that may not be possible if the chair is still otherwise assembled.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Corla Plankun posted:

Interesting! There's a live oak that is probably too far to be relevant (~30 ft), and an unknowntree that is probably 20 ft away on the other side of the driveway, but no closer trees. Neither tree stretches all the way across the driveway so I assume the roots don't go under it.

It's the oak tree assuming it's old. It's always the oak tree. As others have said their root systems are HUGE especially if they are well established (25+ years old). You just live with it and try to encourage them to grow "down". Now that it's found the sewer lateral though it's got the perfect nutrient and water source.

I wouldn't rip anything out preemptively. There are ways to knock down roots. Jet the pipe and do a root-x treatment.

The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



We had a storm come through and the power went out on the whole block. Power came back on, but one of the breakers keeps tripping as soon as it's reset. Should I replace the breaker to see if that's the issue, and if it isn't get an electrician, or should I get an electrician to check it out first?

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Willows and sewers. Oh, God, I'm having flashbacks.

I'm really skeptical that a 5-foot crape myrtle is causing major problems with the sewer. Your best bet is to hire somebody to run a camera down the line and see what's going on. I agree with H110Hawk, this is something you'll root out once every few years, not something you solve by taking out a plant.

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010

The Slack Lagoon posted:

We had a storm come through and the power went out on the whole block. Power came back on, but one of the breakers keeps tripping as soon as it's reset. Should I replace the breaker to see if that's the issue, and if it isn't get an electrician, or should I get an electrician to check it out first?

What circuit is it / what's on it? My one breaker trips if it's raining sideways hard enough because I need to replace the outdoor receptacle cover. Did an appliance or something short out, etc

ROJO
Jan 14, 2006

Oven Wrangler

The Slack Lagoon posted:

We had a storm come through and the power went out on the whole block. Power came back on, but one of the breakers keeps tripping as soon as it's reset. Should I replace the breaker to see if that's the issue, and if it isn't get an electrician, or should I get an electrician to check it out first?

Do you have a good understanding of what the breaker provides power to? Have you unplugged/isolated everything you can from that circuit first to try to isolate the breaker as the issue and not a mis-behaving load? Is it an AFCI or GFCI breaker, and does it have any method of indicating the fault condition that is causing the trip (indicator lights or other)?

ROJO fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Jul 8, 2021

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.





I picked up a new shift knob for my car.

I watch far too much "How It's Made" for my own good, and I've seen them fill in engravings with a translucent resin or epoxy that comes out of a little needle and then hardens.

I was thinking of filling in the "R" with red and the gear numbers in black, but I don't even know where to start with trying to find what I'm looking for. would it be an epoxy, resin, acrylic?

I'm not looking to make it flush. If it's higher at the edges than the middle I'd be okay with it, I just don't want it to easily pop out.

The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



Alarbus posted:

What circuit is it / what's on it? My one breaker trips if it's raining sideways hard enough because I need to replace the outdoor receptacle cover. Did an appliance or something short out, etc

It's recessed led ceiling lights - in the kitchen, a bedroom, and hallway. The outlets in those rooms are on separate circuits. No appliances

Toast Museum
Dec 3, 2005

30% Iron Chef
Shop vac repair question:

My shop vac died, and the culprit appears to be a failed thermal fuse. Instead of installing a new fuse, I'd like to install a reusable thermal cutout rated for comparable temperature and current. Are there any safety reasons not to go this route? Any caveats I should be aware of?

Lawnie
Sep 6, 2006

That is my helmet
Give it back
you are a lion
It doesn't even fit
Grimey Drawer

AFewBricksShy posted:



I picked up a new shift knob for my car.

I watch far too much "How It's Made" for my own good, and I've seen them fill in engravings with a translucent resin or epoxy that comes out of a little needle and then hardens.

I was thinking of filling in the "R" with red and the gear numbers in black, but I don't even know where to start with trying to find what I'm looking for. would it be an epoxy, resin, acrylic?

I'm not looking to make it flush. If it's higher at the edges than the middle I'd be okay with it, I just don't want it to easily pop out.

Probably resin or epoxy if you’re thinking it needs curing after coming out of a needle. Dymax is a brand name of a company that makes such needle-delivered materials. We use one at work to mask pinholes that cures under UV like a dentist’s adhesive.

Anne Whateley
Feb 11, 2007
:unsmith: i like nice words
Imo the easiest/cheapest way to do that is going to be nail polish with a clear coat over it.

Charles Ingalls
Jan 31, 2021
Or those small bottles of automotive touch-up paint

That strange guy
Dec 14, 2014

It's not strange if we never mention it again.

AFewBricksShy posted:



I picked up a new shift knob for my car.

I watch far too much "How It's Made" for my own good, and I've seen them fill in engravings with a translucent resin or epoxy that comes out of a little needle and then hardens.

I was thinking of filling in the "R" with red and the gear numbers in black, but I don't even know where to start with trying to find what I'm looking for. would it be an epoxy, resin, acrylic?

I'm not looking to make it flush. If it's higher at the edges than the middle I'd be okay with it, I just don't want it to easily pop out.
Fill it in with a crayon

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT

That strange guy posted:

Fill it in with a crayon

I was gonna suggest that but I think the heat build up would would cause problems with a filler that melts.

Nail polish and a syringe would be my choice. Tons of color options too.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



AFewBricksShy posted:



I picked up a new shift knob for my car.

I watch far too much "How It's Made" for my own good, and I've seen them fill in engravings with a translucent resin or epoxy that comes out of a little needle and then hardens.

I was thinking of filling in the "R" with red and the gear numbers in black, but I don't even know where to start with trying to find what I'm looking for. would it be an epoxy, resin, acrylic?

I'm not looking to make it flush. If it's higher at the edges than the middle I'd be okay with it, I just don't want it to easily pop out.

You will need:
alcohol
acetone
blue tape
Q-tips &/or a low-nap rag

you should have:
nitrile gloves

a place to paint (a big box with one side cut off works. Or sit it on newspaper, etc. So long as it's outside)

Remove the knob
clean it with alcohol. Get into the recessed parts good. Dunk it, or use a Q-tip or fingernail brush to get all the oils out.
Cover the "R" with blue painter's tape.
Following the instructions on the can, paint the top. You're really painting the shift numbers, but don't worry about the surface.

Let the paint set for at least five minutes, until it looks dry & no longer transfers; it's still quite fragile.
Then, you can either use:
A low-nap rag (cotton T-shirt or underwear is excellent) or Q-tips and clean the surface with acetone, taking care to not hit the recesses. Work from the outside in. Working under good light and with care, you should be able to produce nice, crisp edges around the recesses.

If you can wait, wait overnight, and repeat, this time taping over the numbers and using red on the "R" (if you can't wait, a beer or two/an hour should do)

When done, you can use it as is. If any goons out there can recommend a good coating that won't rub off with the heavy contact a shift knob gets, use that. Otherwise, leave it be; if it eventually wears or chips, repeat the above.

The advantage of using spray paint over brush paint is that you get a far more even application on your surface.

Edit: I used this method on my hubcaps:

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:05 on Jul 9, 2021

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



PainterofCrap posted:

You will need:
alcohol
acetone
blue tape
Q-tips &/or a low-nap rag

you should have:
nitrile gloves

a place to paint (a big box with one side cut off works. Or sit it on newspaper, etc. So long as it's outside)

Remove the knob
clean it with alcohol. Get into the recessed parts good. Dunk it, or use a Q-tip or fingernail brush to get all the oils out.
Cover the "R" with blue painter's tape.
Following the instructions on the can, paint the top. You're really painting the shift numbers, but don't worry about the surface.

Let the paint set for at least five minutes, until it looks dry & no longer transfers; it's still quite fragile.
Then, you can either use:
A low-nap rag (cotton T-shirt or underwear is excellent) or Q-tips and clean the surface with acetone, taking care to not hit the recesses. Work from the outside in. Working under good light and with care, you should be able to produce nice, crisp edges around the recesses.

If you can wait, wait overnight, and repeat, this time taping over the numbers and using red on the "R" (if you can't wait, a beer or two/an hour should do)

When done, you can use it as is. If any goons out there can recommend a good coating that won't rub off with the heavy contact a shift knob gets, use that. Otherwise, leave it be; if it eventually wears or chips, repeat the above.

The advantage of using spray paint over brush paint is that you get a far more even application on your surface.

Edit: I used this method on my hubcaps:



what kind of paint? Just standard krylon, rustoleum?

AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Jul 9, 2021

FCKGW
May 21, 2006

I have a whole house fan with a belt drive motor than squeaks like crazy when running. Whats' the best way to quiet this down?
Googling this problem leads to a million results for serpentine belts in a car.

Canned Sunshine
Nov 20, 2005

CAUTION: POST QUALITY UNDER CONSTRUCTION



I'm normally against integrated LEDs in stuff and I think most here usually are too, but what's the thoughts on integrated LEDs in ceiling fans? There's a few fans I like that I want to put in my home office, but they use integrated LEDs. It sounds like the module that gets installed can actually be ordered from the company when needed to be replaced, so part of me thinks I could just order 1 or 2 for future replacement, but it also seems silly.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


i hate them, they're never bright enough for me.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

FCKGW posted:

I have a whole house fan with a belt drive motor than squeaks like crazy when running. Whats' the best way to quiet this down?
Googling this problem leads to a million results for serpentine belts in a car.

Tension is off, a bearing is shot, something needs grease. Tension could be adjustable or just a new belt. Gotta get up there and find out where exactly it's squeaking.

FCKGW
May 21, 2006

H110Hawk posted:

Tension is off, a bearing is shot, something needs grease. Tension could be adjustable or just a new belt. Gotta get up there and find out where exactly it's squeaking.

This is kinda tricky because the whole package is so small where it's hard to pinpoint the source in the motor. At least it was last time I looked at it.

I'll try tightening the belt first.

Corla Plankun
May 8, 2007

improve the lives of everyone

SourKraut posted:

I'm normally against integrated LEDs in stuff and I think most here usually are too, but what's the thoughts on integrated LEDs in ceiling fans? There's a few fans I like that I want to put in my home office, but they use integrated LEDs. It sounds like the module that gets installed can actually be ordered from the company when needed to be replaced, so part of me thinks I could just order 1 or 2 for future replacement, but it also seems silly.

I don't honestly know if this is universal or not but I put LED bulbs in my fan because they're more efficient than the other options but I hate them. If they are the only thing lighting the room there's a really irritating "framerate"-like problem where the blinking is slow enough to cause visual artifacts in real life, and if they're not the only thing then they might as well be off imo.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Sounds like lovely LED bulbs. Or you have some kind of super vision.

TacoHavoc
Dec 31, 2007
It's taco-y and havoc-y...at the same time!

mutata posted:

Sounds like lovely LED bulbs. Or you have some kind of super vision.

lovely led bulbs or a lovely dimmer.

redreader
Nov 2, 2009

I am the coolest person ever with my pirate chalice. Seriously.

Dinosaur Gum
I have a portable ac and when I walk past the outflow outside it smells like piss. It smells fine inside. What is up? The window unit doesn't have this problem.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Quit pissin' into your AC.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

actionjackson posted:

in before "that's your ceiling"

the outlet concealer is the standard 4" one you find at all the big box stores. The discolored ring is from the light fixture I took down, and you can see there's a segment where I tried to improve it, but it's now worse.



update!

Only registered members can see post attachments!

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Now that's your ceiling.

Did you repaint the whole ceiling or did you get someone to spend way too long matching sheens on some paint?

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

IOwnCalculus posted:

Now that's your ceiling.

Did you repaint the whole ceiling or did you get someone to spend way too long matching sheens on some paint?

I found out what paint was originally used, benjamin moore white dove super hide

in a few other nearby spots it stands out more, I wonder if I need to use more coats in those areas or to do more blending with the surrounding ceiling - I know textured surfaces suck up a lot of paint.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Our very own ceiling paint expert wants to try their hand at a painting thread! Right now it's focused primarily on color selection, but it's pretty darn common for people to come in here and say "how do I make the paint be on the wall" and we sort of rehash the same stories. Would anyone like to help them get the thread off the ground?

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3972382

If there isn't a section about various ceiling paints in there by the end of next week I'm going to be really disappointed in the lot of you.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



AFewBricksShy posted:

what kind of paint? Just standard krylon, rustoleum?

Those will work. Feel free to chime in on your choices, goons!

When I was restoring various trim parts while my Bonneville was out getting painted, I used Rust-oleum for black - they are one of the few out there that have a semigloss black, in addition to flat and gloss:



Where I absolutely had to brush, I used Testor's model enamel.

redreader posted:

I have a portable ac and when I walk past the outflow outside it smells like piss. It smells fine inside. What is up? The window unit doesn't have this problem.

If neighborhood cats aren't spraying on your outflow (if it's less than 2' from the ground), then you probably have still water pooling in there somewhere. Either hit it with Lysol or a 10% bleach - to - water solution to knock down the bacteria.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Jul 10, 2021

GWBBQ
Jan 2, 2005


PainterofCrap posted:

Those will work. Feel free to chime in on your choices, goons!

When I was restoring various trim parts while my Bonneville was out getting painted, I used Rust-oleum for black - they are one of the few out there that have a semigloss black, in addition to flat and gloss:

You know the deal, show us the car now.

brugroffil posted:

We have an old table set we picked up for cheap and refinished a few months ago. One of the spindles holding the rear legs together pulled out the other week? What's the best way to fix this? Titebonding it back together didn't hold.


Ream out the old glue with a spark plug cleaner or wire brush, use epoxy suited for wood and clamp it while it dries, then carefully drill a pilot hole through the spindle from the least visually obtrusive angle and tap it in gently with an awl.

Final Blog Entry posted:

Removing wallpaper can go pretty easy if the wall was properly sized and sealed before it was hung, or it can be a complete nightmare to get off and then require repairs to fix the wall itself. You really don't know how it will go until you try. There are various products and tools to help remove it like scoring tools, remover sprays and gels, and steamer machines. Some people swear by hot water and liquid fabric softener.
I recommend replacing drywall or putting 1/4" over if you're going to be painting anyway because not only is existing wallpaper infuriating to deal with, in the vast majority of cases it should be eradicated on principle.

floWenoL
Oct 23, 2002

floWenoL posted:

So I was inspecting the faucet supply lines in the bathroom, and I noticed that they were copper pipes:





Is there any reason to keep them, or can I just replace them with the usual braided stainless steel ones, e.g. these?

(I was planning on replacing the shutoff valves since one of them won't even turn anymore, so I figure I may as well replace the supply lines...)

Elviscat posted:

You can, but that malleable copper tubing is superior to any braided (SS over rubber) line and it's pre-bent for your application.

You should be able to find new valves that will accept the compression ferrule on the end of those copper lines.

You can, of course, replace them with the type of valve that accepts a braided hose if you want, it's all standard stuff in the plumbing section.

So I got back to this, and ran into an unexpected problem: I thought I'd be able to get the ferrule off the copper line, but apparently the pipe itself is squeezed?



I had thought that I was supposed to use a new ferrule, but I don't see how to get this off without cutting the pipe. Also, you can see the scores on the ferrule where I had tried to twist it off with a plier. :eng99:

My short-term plan is to put on the new valve with the old ferrule and compression nut, and if it springs a leak, try it again with some plumber's tape as described here. But I'm wondering what's the 'right' way to handle this?

Update:
It did indeed start leaking once it put the new valve on, but tightening it up more seems to have stopped it.

floWenoL fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Jul 12, 2021

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



GWBBQ posted:

You know the deal, show us the car now


https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3959931

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kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

floWenoL posted:

So I got back to this, and ran into an unexpected problem: I thought I'd be able to get the ferrule off the copper line, but apparently the pipe itself is squeezed?



I had thought that I was supposed to use a new ferrule, but I don't see how to get this off without cutting the pipe. Also, you can see the scores on the ferrule where I had tried to twist it off with a plier. :eng99:

My short-term plan is to put on the new valve with the old ferrule and compression nut, and if it springs a leak, try it again with some plumber's tape as described here. But I'm wondering what's the 'right' way to handle this?

Update:
It did indeed start leaking once it put the new valve on, but tightening it up more seems to have stopped it.

It's a compression fitting. Both the copper pipe and copper ferrule deform as you tighten the fitting. Yes, you can reuse a copper ferrule several times... usually. Like over 95%. The fix for leaky compression fittings is the one you discovered: compress it more by tightening it.

For the record, there is a tool called a ferrule puller.

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