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Yeah I learned my lesson. Now I need to figure out why my video feed looks like a rainbow acid trip.
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Jul 10, 2021 02:31
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You may also be able to thread the balance lead through the main lead in a way to keep it out of the way. Also: always have some tape. You can use it to safe cut wires, and more.
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Jul 10, 2021 02:51
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Hey so I have broken a few things on my BnF Nazgul5. Well technically the camera never worked. I replaced it with a Trex and it looks good. gently caress you Caddex! But the 12 ga pigtail it came with started to strip the insulation from how stiff it is and bending it to make it to my 4S batteries. Anyhow, I just unsoldered my 12ga leads. And resoldered some 14ga. Holy poo poo it's way easier to solder and manipulate. Bardwell says that 12ga is reserved for hi performance quads, and I think my 200 dollar BnF doesn't count. Anyone notice a difference between 14 and 12?! Also soldering sucks but I think I'm getting.... Better
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Jul 19, 2021 00:21
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TheReverend posted:Hey so I have broken a few things on my BnF Nazgul5. Feel your leads after a heavy flight. If they’re hot you need to get a lower gauge wire Also, are you using rosin? That stuff is magic for making your solder joints look professional
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Jul 19, 2021 00:42
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TheReverend posted:Hey so I have broken a few things on my BnF Nazgul5. Agreed with Bumble, but you are most likely fine with 14 gauge. Also, I looked back a bit and didn’t see anything, so I’m not sure what soldering iron you’re using, but if it’s a cheap Home Depot thing your results will never be great. A temperature controlled iron like a Weller WES-51, TS100, or Hakko FX series makes everything go so much smoother. The problem with cheap irons is that since there is no active temperature control, they get really hot, then burn the flux, then get too cold when you pour solder into them, and you get gross tinfoil looking solder joints. And never use lead-free solder if you can help it. It’s more challenging and needs to be used at higher temperatures. 60/40 rosin core is best.
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Jul 19, 2021 13:52
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Thanks yeah I'm using flux, 6040 solder, and a TS100. I just need more practice I think.
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Jul 19, 2021 23:36
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TheReverend posted:Thanks yeah I'm using flux, 6040 solder, and a TS100. They sell soldering practice boards if you want some experience before you solder the real stuff https://www.getfpv.com/diatone-mamba-practice-soldering-board.html Personally I used the faceplate/diagram that came with my FC stack but for $1.99 it’s tough to argue. Definitely worth picking one up if you’re worried about messing something up!
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Jul 20, 2021 00:28
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The best assist you can get for soldering chunkier wires to pads is to use a bigger soldering iron tip. I use a BC2 tip (2mm slanted cone) for everything I solder, but it is a real pain to do 12 AWG without having to jack the temperature up and take a long time to get everything fully hot. Quick pop out of the tip and switch over to D4 (4mm chisel) and even the same low temperature setting (310C) it is a piece of cake.
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Jul 22, 2021 12:51
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Good fluxed solder and an appropriate tip are the best things you can do for yourself. Soldering a bit like painting/welding, where 80% of the end result is determined by prep/setup.
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Jul 22, 2021 19:50
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I actually logged into a real computer so I can post better. Anyways (im surprised this thread isn't busier) , I got the bug to build my own drone and just....lol So I guess I thought that ESC plus we be all the same? hahahaha Anywas I have this (what i believe to be fancy) ESC with a 10pin plug port and coming in the mail is the JB7 FC, which has an 8 pin plug. I guess I'm hosed and just need to solder the two like a grown man but I'm a little confused by the pinouts ESC: https://www.racedayquads.com/products/hobbywing-xrotor-micro-32bit-60a-4-6s-30x30-4in1-esc-w-bec F7: https://www.racedayquads.com/products/rdq-bardwell-f7-3-6s-30x30-flight-controller-jbf7-fc?variant=31980099928177 So Bardwell's FC wants : BAT GRND R4 (for ESC Telemetry?!) Current M1, M2, M3, M4 I guess im confused about ESC telemetry....never heard of that before, is that common. I don't particularly think I want it. The pinout on the ESC is NC: (not used?) BAT: Translation on the directions says "battery monitoring port". but I would assume that's the same as VBAT, right? CRT: (Current) GND 5V S1, S2, S3, S4 So I'm thinking the mapping is as simple as pre:ESC: FC: S1 M1 S2 M2 S3 M3 S4 M4 GND GND CUR CUR BAT BAT Does that make sense?
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Aug 2, 2021 04:29
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Your mapping looks correct. The 5V coming off the ESC is just a power source for camera, VTX or other 5V device. Kind of neat they include that BEC in the ESC, never seen that. NC means Not Connected and you're right, you don't need esc telemetry
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Aug 2, 2021 14:34
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ESC telemetry is good for not-racing drones. It will give things like individual motor RPM, amperage draw, individual temperatures, etc. Your FC can roll it all up into a nice HUD.
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Aug 2, 2021 14:51
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If the FC and ESC both come with connector cables, you should be able to remove the pins from one connector and put them in the other just fine. It's what I ended up doing to connect a Mamba F722 APP FC to a Hobbywing XRotor ESC. Otherwise, you can order something like https://www.racedayquads.com/products/sh-1-0-silicone-cable-set
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Aug 2, 2021 20:54
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This is a very specific q, but does anyone have recommendations for places in Northern California you can fly drones + which have interesting things to video? The ban in state and national parks is really cutting off many, many options. Flying the little fast FPV guy in the random fields which are reserved by RC clubs is fun, but for the mostly slow video-taking drone it's not super interesting. (Also holy poo poo flying a drone with GPS and real hover is so incredibly easy after only flying little FPV drones. It definitely feels like taking the training weights off)
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Aug 6, 2021 18:39
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As someone who lives in the Midwest which is all flat cornfields, it’s all about contrast. Film where things change, film the crossover from one thing to the next. For me it’s Lake Michigan, the shores, the bluffs, the lighthouses, ships, wildlife, etc as contrasted with the land and surrounding cities. I also did the full manual to fully automatic drone transition and it’s laughably easy. You just sort of suggest where you want it to go and the beep boop computer does all the hard work.
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Aug 7, 2021 00:05
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tildes posted:This is a very specific q, but does anyone have recommendations for places in Northern California you can fly drones + which have interesting things to video? The ban in state and national parks is really cutting off many, many options. Flying the little fast FPV guy in the random fields which are reserved by RC clubs is fun, but for the mostly slow video-taking drone it's not super interesting. Erh, you're putting the training wheels *on* when you get a GPS assisted drone.
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Aug 7, 2021 03:50
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If gps is training wheels what's optical flow sensor + lidar?
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Aug 7, 2021 04:58
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Erh, you're putting the training wheels *on* when you get a GPS assisted drone. Training weights as in like a weighted vest for doing pull ups! Putting on training wheels is another good analogy.
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Aug 7, 2021 05:28
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For the pixhawk, the GPS apparently is notoriously flaky if you put it near the 2.4ghz flysky tranciever and/or a 915mhz telemetry radio, or just the pixhawk itself The ublox GPS unit comes with a ~10" cable, and I think I can put it ~6 inches away from the pixhawk, and ~12 inches away from the 2.5ghz flysky tranceiver, both horizontal, and about 8 inches vertically away from the 915mhz telemetry radio How close can I get all of this stuff before it starts stepping on itself? Definitely at least 2 inches, I think? Does carbon rod interfere with a 915mhz signal?
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Aug 8, 2021 05:31
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Hadlock posted:For the pixhawk, the GPS apparently is notoriously flaky if you put it near the 2.4ghz flysky tranciever and/or a 915mhz telemetry radio, or just the pixhawk itself Never had any issues with 915mhz telemetry and GPS. Make sure you use a quality GPS. Carbon rod wont affect the 915mhz at all.
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Aug 8, 2021 06:58
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tildes posted:Flying the little fast FPV guy in the random fields which are reserved by RC clubs is fun, but for the mostly slow video-taking drone it's not super interesting. Also, anyone up for this deathtrap? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0lm9HdMGBss
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Aug 8, 2021 12:41
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Combat Pretzel posted:Also, anyone up for this deathtrap? It looks pretty sweet. Why would it be a deathtrap?
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Aug 8, 2021 15:10
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Combat Pretzel posted:Even fast FPV gets boring as gently caress, if it's the same grassy featureless fields. One reason I lost major interest. This must be why I've only flown about 5 packs this summer.. backyard just kinda meh. That and I don't want to deal with getting stuck or breaking the drones flying riskier Would fly a manned multicopter for sure... Been trying to convince the wife to let me build an RV-8 but doesn't look like that's gonna pan out
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Aug 8, 2021 15:45
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uXs posted:It looks pretty sweet. Why would it be a deathtrap? CloFan posted:This must be why I've only flown about 5 packs this summer.. backyard just kinda meh. That and I don't want to deal with getting stuck or breaking the drones flying riskier I'm in the middle of Europe. Either everything's packed into tight cities, without much abandoned places, because they get torn down quickly to build new things, because space, the rest is just agricultural, with mostly just rectangular fields adorned by some bushes. There's maybe four fields, in practical distances for casual flying, that have random tree placements worthwhile impromptu tracks and for freestyle tomfoolery. And one of them was recently cut down. There isn't much variety. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Aug 10, 2021 |
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Aug 10, 2021 15:16
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I might be about to spend $57 on WebODM. Is there better orthomosaic software that you can run on your desktop? I loathe spending money unnecessarily but I'm getting sick of Autostitch and Microsoft ICE.
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Aug 10, 2021 22:37
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Currently discharging a bunch of batteries to 0V, to ditch them at the recycling center. I picked 10W bulbs for that, to not overstress the battery while making it die (which was probably a good choice, because they start getting warm at the end of it), but goddamn it takes long for them to die. My oven looks like the Ark of the Covenant right now.
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Aug 14, 2021 18:21
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Don't be these guys. https://twitter.com/alexbloor/status/1429391804126859264
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Aug 23, 2021 03:32
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http://www.happymodel.cn/index.php/2021/08/20/happymodel-mobula6-elrs-1s-65mm-brushless-fpv-brushless-whoop-drone/ Tinywhoops starting to come with onboard ExpressLRS, neat. I like that ceramic antenna, the antenna broke on my Tinyhawk 2.
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Aug 23, 2021 20:13
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I have a pixhawk 2.4 or whatever, it's about the size of a medium cell phone Running into packaging constraints, I think there's a minimum physical footprint for these devices, needing physical side to plug in about six things, gps, telemetry, radio, power, servos What's a reasonably priced ardupilot, small form factor hardware solution? Seems like he pixracer (4?) at $150 is about half the size of the pixhawk 2.4? Any better suggestions? Also looking for something with low power consumption
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Aug 24, 2021 08:39
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https://store.mrobotics.io/mRo-PixRacer-R15-Official-p/m10023a.htm https://store.mrobotics.io/product-p/m10059d.htm Not cheap, but very small! https://www.banggood.com/Matek-Syst...CN&rmmds=search If your vehicle isn't too expensive. It is super practical though, with built-in power module.
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Aug 24, 2021 09:13
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Very cool, thanks for the options, this gives me something to think about. What are the reliability of these things? Presumably the mRo robotics stuff is made with top quality components, whereas the capacitors on the bangood device are probably leaking from the factory? This is going on a boat with about 6w of solar so mission duration would be measured in hours, maybe days. Presumably ardupilot is pretty reliable these days so hardware is the weak point.
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Aug 24, 2021 09:42
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The mRo stuff is very good and the Matek isn't too bad. On a boat with minimal vibrations, I wouldn't worry too much.
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Aug 24, 2021 17:36
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Xaintrailles posted:http://www.happymodel.cn/index.php/2021/08/20/happymodel-mobula6-elrs-1s-65mm-brushless-fpv-brushless-whoop-drone/ I put a happymodel EP2 on my tinyhawk because I was tired of getting crummy RSSI at 50m. Works great now.  (yellow zip tie)
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Aug 25, 2021 06:53
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Cool. Does it feel durable? e: And no regrets with Express LRS in general? Xaintrailles fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Aug 25, 2021 |
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Aug 25, 2021 14:47
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It feels pretty durable. I wouldn't want to directly smack the antenna into anything, but I've bottomed out onto the pavement with this setup a couple times and haven't had any issues. I'm relatively new to the hobby with about 4 months under my belt, but I'm really happy with ELRS overall. I started off with FRSKY control link stuff, but it was always felt a little finicky and flakey. I put an EP1 on my 5" freestyle quad, and have had zero issues with ELRS so far. The binding phrase stuff makes it super easy to use the same OpenTX profile on my radio for both the 5" and the tinyhawk. The only (potential) downside I've seen is that you have some reduced resolution on AUX channel signal (I think 6 positions per channel? The docs say 3 positions, but I think I've seen 6 when I mess around with stuff in betaflight), so it's not possible to jam all of your controls on to just a single aux channel https://www.expresslrs.org/1.0/software/switch-config/. I don't really have need for a full-resolution input for freestyle flying, so it's more of an implementation detail rather than a drawback for me.
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Aug 26, 2021 01:57
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Thanks! OK, next time I spend money on a quadcopter it'll be ExpressLRS. AUX thing seems like no problem for me, just some fiddling in OpenTX.
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Aug 28, 2021 01:52
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Would it be possible for an active poster in here to make a new thread? I came here looking for some answers about the FAA’s new ID laws ( in particular I don’t understand if a DJI mavic will become disallowed even with a third party transmitter) and it feels like something the OP should address but the thread is almost 10 years old at this point with no activity from the first poster since 2012.
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Aug 29, 2021 22:29
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I flew two quads today. One was a Nazgul 5 with whatever iFlight Succex VTX. The other was my 6 cell that I built using rush mini VTX. Both times my video sucked absolute dogshit. Could it be my goggles? Eachine EV800D? Is it time to maybe get a better pair? VTX power was more than appropriate for this occasion. Also my crossfire RSSI isn't very good. A few soccer fields away and it dips to like 60 RSSI >:{
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Aug 30, 2021 02:46
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TheReverend posted:I flew two quads today. It’s probably goggles as long as you are sure you are on the right channels and your power is not at 10mW or something. I have been going through the same issues with crossfire, here’s what I’ve found. Typical of all of this poo poo, it’s complicated, changing all the time, and not well documented: Don’t worry about RSSI with crossfire. It doesn’t tell you much unlike with FrSky. Having low RSSI even when close is normal, because a high noise floor can reduce RSSI without affecting range. Instead use Link Quality (LQ). On older versions of Betaflight, link quality was displayed in values of 0-300% (  ), and in new versions it’s in the format of X:Y where X is frequency mode and Y is link quality ( )Crossfire operates in 150hz mode when it’s got good reception, 50hz mode when it gets sketchier, and 4hz when it can just barely get through. In the older versions of Betaflight if you saw a value of 200-300% for LQ you were in 150hz, 100-200% meant 50hz, and 0-100% means 4hz. If you saw something like 70% you’d know your poo poo is hosed and to turn around. The new format is similar, with the first value being 0,1, or 2 for mode and Y being 0-100% LQ. So a value of 2:100 means you have great link quality at full speed. 1:75 means stuff is starting to get hairy. And 0:70 means your poo poo is hosed, turn around. I have terrible range on my crossfire setup for whatever reason right now on my Explorer LR. At 500mW, no matter what I do with other settings, I lose it at like 800 feet away. On the plus side, GPS rescue actually works pretty well  . Going to swap receivers and antennas and see if it gets better.
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Aug 30, 2021 13:24
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Could try upgrading the antennae first? IDK how much difference it makes but it's a cheaper thing to give a go at least.
Xaintrailles fucked around with this message at 14:15 on Aug 30, 2021 |
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Aug 30, 2021 13:53
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