|
PageMaster posted:Maybe a long shot, but does anyone own a newer(ish) gas Wolf range? Looking at the manual it says to connect to the female inlet on the range: That's probably where the regulator goes, which is female on both sides. Did a regulator come with it?
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2021 13:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 18:29 |
|
|
Motronic posted:That's probably where the regulator goes, which is female on both sides. Did a regulator come with it? Gas pressure regulator is built in according to the manual, do hopefully they black iron line just goes into it already? Tyro posted:My in laws have a new Wolf gas cooktop, and we will be over at their place later today, I'll see if I can get an eye on the connection. Thanks, don't go out of your way too much, it's a pain to get behind so I'm going to try and find a showroom and St if that's easier. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Aug 1, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2021 16:13
|
|
|
PageMaster posted:Gas pressure regulator is built in according to the manual, do hopefully they black iron line just goes into it already? Most Wolf units have built-in regulators that are not visible on the rear of the unit. Did you buy this unit used? If so, did you see it operating before you purchased it? I'm guessing you purchased it used because Wolf dealers are usually pretty good about installing themselves - they are given incentives to do so by Wolf (they can offer longer warranty lengths if the dealer installs). If you purchased it used the issue could be as simple as the previous owner pulling off a little too much of the factory piping leaving you with a male end instead of a female end. I recommend having your dealer complete install (if you bought it from a dealer) or hiring a Wolf technician to install it (if you bought it used). Making guesses around how gas appliances operate is risky, and as soon as your unit starts deviating from what the manual expects you have to start wondering what else may have been altered.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2021 17:12
|
|
|
Tezer posted:Most Wolf units have built-in regulators that are not visible on the rear of the unit. Did you buy this unit used? If so, did you see it operating before you purchased it? Was brought brand new from a showroom, delivered still in box and wrapped. Showroom didn't offer install, but did discount if we gave them the GC license number of our installer to attach to the sale. This came up because I bought connection adapters based on the manual specifying a female inlet but the contractor called me and said I needed different adapters because there was only a male fitting. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Aug 1, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2021 17:30
|
|
|
I can post a photo if you want. It looks to me like a black iron inlet pipe with a female end, then a maybe 2" long male threaded extension coming from the pipe that the line is connected to. Not sure if that came that way or was part of the installation process. Keep in mind this is just a countertop cooktop not a full range. But there's a big orange and white sticker right next to the inlet that says WARNING: REGULATOR INSTALLED. I second that you should check with the dealer.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2021 17:37
|
|
|
PageMaster posted:Was brought brand new from a showroom, delivered still in box and wrapped. Showroom didn't offer install, but did discount if we gave them the GC license number of our installer to attach to the sale. This came up because I bought connection adapters based on the manual specifying a female inlet but the contractor called me and said I needed different adapters because there was only a male fitting. Interesting.... If the showroom doesn't have a quick answer ask if they can send you a parts diagram and you can confirm whether a part is missing from that. I checked some old ones (like the DF30) and they show a male thread, but I couldn't quickly find a parts diagram for a newer model. You can also call Wolf directly. It's possible that they will just not answer your question if you're a homeowner, but I've called them with detailed questions as a GC and they've always been helpful.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2021 17:56
|
|
|
Yeah that's my next step if the showroom doesn't have a floor model. I'm just stuck until Monday when their tech support opens up. Unrelated, but showroom finally delivered my dishwasher yesterday so I could join the Bosch supremacy club! probably my favorite thing in the kitchen right now.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2021 19:13
|
|
|
My husband and I are 62, and we need grab bars in the shower just in case. This is the shower stall in our new house. If the handyman does a thorough job of caulking, will that keep the screw holes from leaking behind the stall? Also, take a gander at the floor covering. Ouchie. The house is old enough (1931) that I don't want to cope with whatever's underneath the '70s (at a guess) stuff. It's in fine shape, just ugly. It's a teensy room, just the shower stall. I'd like to put another layer of vinyl on top of it. However, the vinyl is textured. My Googling is divided; half of it says to use an embossing leveler and then put vinyl down, the other half says not to use embossing leveler on vinyl, because it's intended for wood or concrete. Thoughts? No, scraping it all out and laying ceramic tile is not happening.  As a sweetener, here's the glass washboard the previous owners left behind. As I recall, you used glass washboards for washing your delicates; they aren't as abrasive as the metal kind. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2021 19:49
|
|
|
Arsenic Lupin posted:My husband and I are 62, and we need grab bars in the shower just in case. This is the shower stall in our new house. You could screw a layer of luan onto it, then install whatever you like. I did this to install glass tile - luan, then 1/4” Hardiebacker, mastic, tile.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2021 21:24
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:You could screw a layer of luan onto it, then install whatever you like. I did this to install glass tile - luan, then 1/4” Hardiebacker, mastic, tile. I don't have the tools or skills necessary to cut luan to fit this L-shaped (it doesn't show, but there's a closet) bathroom. All I want is to hide the ugly vinyl, not to put down an entire new floor+tiles sandwich.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2021 21:28
|
|
|
Arsenic Lupin posted:My husband and I are 62, and we need grab bars in the shower just in case. This is the shower stall in our new house. The only caulking that needs to be applied is to the interior of the screw holes. This will seal the screw penetration as you fasten the screw. The grab bars must be installed into solid blocking behind the shower stall. If there is no blocking, you can install them using wall framing studs - just skew the grab bar until it lines up with two studs (ie - it won't be horizontal across the wall but instead at an angle in order to line up with two studs). There are hollow-wall anchors rated for grab bars. The manufacturers say that they can be installed in wet environments. I am not comfortable using them. An example would be Moen SecureMount. If you use a hollow wall anchor my advice about caulk in the screw holes does not apply.
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2021 21:49
|
|
|
Arsenic Lupin posted:I don't have the tools or skills necessary to cut luan to fit this L-shaped (it doesn't show, but there's a closet) bathroom. All I want is to hide the ugly vinyl, not to put down an entire new floor+tiles sandwich. Putting another layer of vinyl over the existing wouldn't be the biggest house crime, I bet you'd barely notice the lower texture. Go for it
|
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2021 22:48
|
|
|
Inner Light posted:You got pictures of the fence for us, any before/after? Was gone all weekend so here you go!   Now to borrow my friend’s backpack sprayer and pick up 10 gallons of stain…after I replace five posts. devmd01 fucked around with this message at 23:51 on Aug 1, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 1, 2021 23:46
|
|
|
Tezer posted:Interesting.... I'll try the call as a GC tomorrow. I finally just decided to pull the range out and get a good look instead of between the walls and it definitely doesn't feel comfortable to me: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jaza-ss1d5s https://youtube.com/shorts/717hqxmSnCs?feature=share Can't actually see the gas regulator without opening the whole unit up but I cancelled the GC install for now Edit: found their service manual and it looks like the inlet pipe is threaded to the regulator, so everything is fine assuming the manual was wrong about the inlet connection and the regulator isn't screwed down or secured where. 
PageMaster fucked around with this message at 08:32 on Aug 2, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2021 07:43
|
|
|
Tyro posted:I can post a photo if you want. It looks to me like a black iron inlet pipe with a female end, then a maybe 2" long male threaded extension coming from the pipe that the line is connected to. Not sure if that came that way or was part of the installation process. Keep in mind this is just a countertop cooktop not a full range. I'm back at home now and checked my cooktop and found the same that you did.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2021 15:04
|
|
|
Thanks! I got a hold of wolf and was able to find their local certified technicians to talk to directly. Good news is they say the manual is wrong and there is no female inlet, but the pipe is supposed to be seated higher and bracket secured to hold it in the correct position; they're coming for a warranty fix on Wednesday. I normally shy away from extended warranty type stuff, but I'm feeling like the $250 certified installer to get the extra year warranty is probably worth it now.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2021 18:26
|
|
|
PageMaster posted:the pipe is supposed to be seated higher and bracket secured to hold it in the correct position It probably also should have had a plastic shipping cap on it to keep poo poo out of the gas line.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2021 18:49
|
|
|
PageMaster posted:Thanks! I got a hold of wolf and was able to find their local certified technicians to talk to directly. Good news is they say the manual is wrong and there is no female inlet, but the pipe is supposed to be seated higher and bracket secured to hold it in the correct position; they're coming for a warranty fix on Wednesday. I normally shy away from extended warranty type stuff, but I'm feeling like the $250 certified installer to get the extra year warranty is probably worth it now. I'm generally of the same opinion - a warranty is often more of a hassle than anything (scheduling service windows, under-trained techs, no parts available, fine print on maintenance/usage to wiggle out of claims, pro-rated value calculations, excluding labor costs, etc.). SubZero/Wolf/Cove is one of the few that my clients actually get value out of because the technicians are usually pretty competent and parts are generally available. Even I, not a member of the Wolf owning class, is thinking about saving up for one just for that reason. If something weird goes on my Bosch range, I think I'll replace it with a Wolf.
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2021 18:58
|
|
|
I need help figuring out why it would be dumb to save some money on HVAC. Specifically, a Mitsubishi 48,000 BTU ductless heat pump with five zones (15k+9k+9k+9k+6k). We'd pull out the hydronic boiler and baseboard registers, and drop these into the five rooms in the house, leaving the bathroom without heat. I Know A Guy who does plumbing. He actually used to work with the Well-Known Plumbing Business here in our small town for decades, until they laid him off during lockdown a few years ago; now he works for himself. When he was with WKPB, he came out to work on our stuff multiple times and I was always super happy with his work; it got to where we'd call and request him by name. So we trust this guy. There's this web site where I can buy the system I described above for $8,000. In 2018 we got a quote for this system, at $23,425 before state and county taxes (installed). The way I look at it, I can pay this guy we trust a lot up to $15,425 for labor and whatever parts he needs, and I'm coming out ahead because the installer would be the person we'd call to come fix it. He's not certified to work on the 230V AC electrical connection, but I'm perfectly happy doing that hookup, which will be very similar to the car charger I installed a few years ago. Is this plan smart or stupid? cruft fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Aug 2, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2021 23:27
|
|
|
Why do you want to tear out the hydronic system? Why do you want mini splits? Is this just for heat, or is this your heat+AC upgrade? What climate do you live in? How cold does it get for how long?
|
|
#
?
Aug 2, 2021 23:54
|
|
|
Would that impact the warranty on that unit? To me the warranty is one of the nice things about Mitsubishi, and I wouldn't want to lose that peace of mind just to save some cash. Also something to keep in mind, it's not "plumbers" that install it, it's HVAC technicians, so just because he's an ace plumber doesn't mean he'd be an ace HVAC installer. But yeah, that poo poo's expensive when you look at what an installer will quote you vs what you can get it for online.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 00:11
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Why do you want to tear out the hydronic system? Well, you know what, I didn't realize anybody made a hydronic heat pump until you asked these questions. I actually love our hydronic system, it's great for my allergies, I just assumed it was old tech and would have to go. So I'm looking into these now. But essentially, I'm looking to get off natural gas and onto the output of all the solar panels on the roof. We live in Heating Climate Zone 4. It rarely gets below 12F here, but we So, yeah... probably a hydronic heat pump is the way to go, and maybe we can just drop a single minisplit into a "cooling room" to be used when we start getting temperatures like Seattle did this summer. FISHMANPET posted:Would that impact the warranty on that unit? To me the warranty is one of the nice things about Mitsubishi, and I wouldn't want to lose that peace of mind just to save some cash. Also something to keep in mind, it's not "plumbers" that install it, it's HVAC technicians, so just because he's an ace plumber doesn't mean he'd be an ace HVAC installer. This isn't something I had considered and I think answers the question "why is this a bad idea"  e: ugh, it looks like a hydronic heat pump would be considered "exotic" for my little town in the middle of nowhere. cruft fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Aug 3, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 00:12
|
|
|
cruft posted:Is this plan smart or stupid? You have two plans here. One is to replace your existing heating system with a new heating and cooling system. The other is to hire a one person plumbing shop to install equipment that you purchase yourself. They are questions you should consider separately. Post the Mitsubishi model. If you haven't looked at the output curve yet, you'll want to do that to make sure it can meet the heating demand indicated by the Manual J analysis you commissioned at your anticipated winter operating temperature.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 00:35
|
|
|
Tezer posted:You have two plans here. One is to replace your existing heating system with a new heating and cooling system. The other is to hire a one person plumbing shop to install equipment that you purchase yourself. They are questions you should consider separately. The smart option now seems like keeping the hydronic system in place and just swapping out the gas boiler with a heat pump, which I just learned 30 minutes ago is a real thing that actually exists and can be installed by a Company That Claims To Know What They're Doing a mere 50 miles away. So I'm abandoning the mini split idea in favor of just upgrading what we already have. So basically the answer to my question was "yes, this is dumb". It's an HCH success story!
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 00:54
|
|
|
cruft posted:The smart option now seems like keeping the hydronic system in place and just swapping out the gas boiler with a heat pump, which I just learned 30 minutes ago is a real thing that actually exists and can be installed by a Company That Claims To Know What They're Doing a mere 50 miles away. So I'm abandoning the mini split idea in favor of just upgrading what we already have. I would suggest the smarter option than this is to leave your working hydronic system + fossil heat in place and augment it with a heat pump heating system in the same loop and proper controller to cut over to fossil when necessary like when it's under 35 or so and the efficiency goes way down....which may be a different calculation based on your solar, or when this "exotic for your town" HP hydronic goes down you still have a backup heat source. Heat pump + fossil and the controllers to handle an intelligent switchover is well trodden territory, nothing new nor exotic.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 01:25
|
|
|
Are there some clear tiers of cheap, mid-range, top end when it comes to brands for doors and windows? I specifically looking at getting a 6' wide double french door set (outward swing, right hand side if it matters) to put in a "modern" looking outbuilding. Our place has JeldWen vinyl windows retrofitted in the main house and I'm completely unimpressed with the quality, especially the latches, but maybe their doors are sufficient for this backyard building that won't get constant traffic.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 03:39
|
|
|
When is a good time to seal a deck? It's been built for about a month now and it's been so drat hot and dry I am almost positive all moisture is gone.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 15:50
|
|
|
Awesome. I was poking around to see the best way to run ethernet up to the attic, and I found PVC pipe used as conduit from a hidden space under the attic stairs on the second floor that looks like it probably goes down to the basement! ... with power line run through it. The guy who renovated this place didn't put any conduit for data lines, naturally. I could possibly tie some ethernet cable to the spare telephone line feed to the attic and pull it through (or I suppose to the primary since we have no landline, but I hate to remove features), but as it's still in the same stud space as the power line I think I'd have to go with shielded. Or I can just do MoCA. I get about 760 Mbps over that, so at least it's still a viable option unless I want to transmit truly ginormous files.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 17:59
|
|
|
tetrapyloctomy posted:Awesome. I was poking around to see the best way to run ethernet up to the attic, and I found PVC pipe used as conduit from a hidden space under the attic stairs on the second floor that looks like it probably goes down to the basement! If you mean Ethernet Powerline, I have been using this for quite some time to get wifi out of my steel-siding house (AKA "the great Faraday cage"), and I can tell you it's been just fine. And it was definitely a lot easier than doing it the "right" way.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 18:16
|
|
|
tetrapyloctomy posted:as it's still in the same stud space as the power line I think I'd have to go with shielded. I'm not aware of a jurisdiction where you can mix low volt with high volt in the same conduit. And even if yours happens to allow it, don't.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 18:24
|
|
|
I'm assuming there's no safety reason why you shouldn't mix high and low voltage in a conduit, is it mostly banned because your high voltage stuff will mess up the low voltage signals?
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 18:51
|
|
|
FISHMANPET posted:I'm assuming there's no safety reason why you shouldn't mix high and low voltage in a conduit, is it mostly banned because your high voltage stuff will mess up the low voltage signals? There is absolutely a safety reason. Abrasion in the conduit leading to bridging conductors from high volt to low volt is going to cause the potential for fire or electrocution.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 19:01
|
|
|
Yup, that sounds bad!
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 19:03
|
|
|
It sounds like the power line is run inside the pvc pipe and telephone line is outside but in the same stud cavity. Are there restrictions on subconduits?
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 19:07
|
|
|
Motronic posted:I'm not aware of a jurisdiction where you can mix low volt with high volt in the same conduit. And even if yours happens to allow it, don't. cruft posted:If you mean Ethernet Powerline iv46vi posted:It sounds like the power line is run inside the pvc pipe and telephone line is outside but in the same stud cavity. Are there restrictions on subconduits? Edit: Here we go. PVC conduit with electrical cable bundled together in it is self-evidence. The insulated stuff to the left is return/supply for baseboard heat in the attic plus the lineset for the air handler. Some of the dangling wires are phone line, one is thermostat wiring for the aforementioned baseboard heat, and one I believe is the thermostat wire for the radiators on the second floor, which appears to loop up into the attic, around a bit, and then down through this access area. Like, seriously, man, would it have been so hard when you had poo poo torn apart to run conduit for phone, conduit for data, and conduit for coaxial? 
tetrapyloctomy fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Aug 3, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 19:13
|
|
|
cruft posted:I need help figuring out why it would be dumb to save some money on HVAC. Specifically, a Mitsubishi 48,000 BTU ductless heat pump with five zones (15k+9k+9k+9k+6k). For your specific case this wound up not working out, but this can absolutely be a way to save money if you're willing to basically forego warranty parts. Assuming the linesets/drains get installed competently, the system is sized appropriately, and the person doing the gas work understands what's happening you can basically half or quarter the cost of installation for uncomplicated setups. The parts that fail are going to be the mechanical ones on either end in all likelihood, so you can just pay again to swap those bits out wholesale. It works better in hot climates - I'm never worried about the heating capacity of my office minisplit here in Southern California. If it gets that cold I'll just go inside to work for the day. It's 103F outside right now and it's a cool 72F in my office on this Fujitsu unit bought off Sketchy Heat Pumps R Us dot com. It's 2 years old, so basically paid for itself over a "professional" installation. I also have the option of being elsewhere when it fails.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 20:09
|
|
|
tetrapyloctomy posted:Like, seriously, man, would it have been so hard when you had poo poo torn apart to run conduit for phone, conduit for data, and conduit for coaxial? Cat6 doesn't need to be in conduit, is there space to run some ethernet down the outside of that existing conduit? There seems to be space in the floor penetration, what's it look like further down?
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 21:08
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:Cat6 doesn't need to be in conduit, is there space to run some ethernet down the outside of that existing conduit? There seems to be space in the floor penetration, what's it look like further down? I'm also curious about why you are trying to run so many ethernet cables to the same place. Could you VLAN tag your subnets and just run one cable?
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 21:50
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:Cat6 doesn't need to be in conduit, is there space to run some ethernet down the outside of that existing conduit? There seems to be space in the floor penetration, what's it look like further down? There's the entire first floor in the way before it comes out in the basement ceiling, naturally in a portion of the ceiling that he boxed in, instead of where there's drop ceiling. I think the dude was a master troll. Conduit would make it a lot easier to hit whatever hole he drilled in the first floor to pass things through. In any case, right next to the conduit is too close. Running a data line parallel to a bundle of line voltage wires for almost twenty straight feet can't be good on the signal degradation front. Next to the A/C and radiator stuff is really too close too, but might be the only easy option in the house.
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2021 23:52
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 28, 2024 18:29 |
|
|
tetrapyloctomy posted:In any case, right next to the conduit is too close. Running a data line parallel to a bundle of line voltage wires for almost twenty straight feet can't be good on the signal degradation front. Next to the A/C and radiator stuff is really too close too, but might be the only easy option in the house. Ethernet uses twisted pairs for the express purpose of negating electromagnetic interference. I did a little reading around the almighty Internet and it seems like opinions are evenly split about whether running ethernet alongside romex will cause signal degradation. I think you should run it and find out! I mean, you have a bundle of like 6+ ethernet cables there running at a way higher frequency than 50-60Hz, so I am willing to wager up to 25 cents on you being able to run it alongside your mains power and not notice any problems at all. I'm still curious why you need so flipping many ethernet cables running the same route. Do you have segmented networks in your house? Are you just trying to avoid buying a second switch? Do you have a ceph cluster in your attic? e: actually, come to think of it, we regularly run ethernet alongside 60Hz AC power in the cable tray arms to our servers, about 5 feet before they emerge from the arm. I don't think it's going to cause any problems for you. I'm raising my bet to a whole dollar. cruft fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Aug 4, 2021 |
|
#
?
Aug 4, 2021 00:12
|
|