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So yeah, if the size of the wheel that moves the filament changed then it will be sending a different amount of plastic down the tube. I replaced the extruders on both my ender 3 and sunlu s8 with totally different ones (knock off versions bondtech and e3d) so they have drastically different profiles (they both had to turn the other direction and go much faster since they're geared). Just changing the gear in the same orientation will be less extreme but will change the flow rate if it's not exactly the same size.
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Aug 1, 2021 05:49
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Roll Fizzlebeef posted:I made an ikea lack enclosure for my printer using the prusa design. It was fun to build but also the most expensive and time consuming thing I have ever made out of cardboard. I probably should have just bought a real enclosure but I think this will work fine. Huh, I've been thinking about making an enclosure and was looking at the Lack designs. Do you have any suggestions for "real enclosures" that you mentioned? I did not know that was a thing. I also have a prusa mk3. My priorities are somewhat odd. Using the enclosure to print ABS or other things that need an enclosure are secondary. I mostly want something to keep the dust off my printer, add a filament drybox on it, and for storing all the little tools and trinkets so it's easier to move everything when I have to change apartments. Not sure if any of the junk I just mentioned is important for picking out an enclosure.
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Aug 1, 2021 06:23
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Deviant posted:what do yall print to use up the last bits of rolls? I print funnels in vase mode. Disposable if needed, for example after pouring/moving resin or resin-contaminated IPA.
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Aug 1, 2021 17:23
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Roll Fizzlebeef posted:I made an ikea lack enclosure for my printer using the prusa design. It was fun to build but also the most expensive and time consuming thing I have ever made out of cardboard. I probably should have just bought a real enclosure but I think this will work fine. It's a nice design but yes, it's actually pretty expensive by the end in its own way. But compared to other options it's pretty compelling. Enclosures in general are just kind of expensive things unless you just use a photo tent or one of those soft grow op enclosure things and call it done.
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Aug 1, 2021 17:30
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The Eyes Have It posted:It's a nice design but yes, it's actually pretty expensive by the end in its own way. But compared to other options it's pretty compelling. Enclosures in general are just kind of expensive things unless you just use a photo tent or one of those soft grow op enclosure things and call it done. I'm doing mine out of coroplast. I expect to have it for less than $40.
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Aug 1, 2021 21:05
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Haha, same. (Not the Prusa design, but my own. I had a feeling I wasn't the only one to see that stuff and get ideas.)
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Aug 1, 2021 21:28
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The Eyes Have It posted:Haha, same. (Not the Prusa design, but my own. I had a feeling I wasn't the only one to see that stuff and get ideas.) I'm looking for good plastic rivets at the moment, but I"m also considering printing fasteners. Because... why not?
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Aug 1, 2021 22:11
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I've used these for various things (like cardboard) in the past and was happy with them. You can push & lock them then snip off the excess. Best for light duty due to print orientation, etc, but I printed a shitload once and they are ridic handy for niche applications. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:311086 Best printed in something with a little "give" -- I used some Polymaker Polymax which prints like PLA but has some give and never tried anything else. I suspect PETG would be stringy as hell but 
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Aug 1, 2021 22:54
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The Eyes Have It posted:I've used these for various things (like cardboard) in the past and was happy with them. You can push & lock them then snip off the excess. WELL... Looks like we have a thing to print today. Hah. Thank you, that's perfect.
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Aug 2, 2021 02:37
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Cory Parsnipson posted:Huh, I've been thinking about making an enclosure and was looking at the Lack designs. Do you have any suggestions for "real enclosures" that you mentioned? I did not know that was a thing. I also have a prusa mk3. I don’t know if this particular one is good or not, but something like this maybe: https://www.printedsolid.com/collections/next-generation-enclosures/products/next-gen-safety-enclosure-for-prusa-style-printers The lack enclosure is pretty nice and it was fun to build like I said before. I like the hinged top a lot. However, it took almost two spools of PETG and multiple days to print all the parts. Filament combined with hardware and acrylic makes it fairly expensive. The main drawback is how flimsy the ikea tables are. I found a stl file for leg braces that make the whole thing more sturdy. The screw holes were too small for the extra screws I have from building the enclosure so I figured out how to open the stl in Solidworks and take measurements so I could recreate the part. I am happier now that it has sturdier legs.
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Aug 2, 2021 03:00
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Roll Fizzlebeef posted:I don’t know if this particular one is good or not, but something like this maybe: https://www.printedsolid.com/collections/next-generation-enclosures/products/next-gen-safety-enclosure-for-prusa-style-printers Ah ok. You make the lack enclosure still sound enticing. Do you need to keep the doors open when printing PLA and/or PETG? I think I heard that bridging might suffer otherwise but I'm not sure if that's true.
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Aug 2, 2021 04:01
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So I've changed the extruder gear back to the stock one, made sure the ptfe tube is seated correctly and is clear, and changed the nozzle again and it still seems to be doing the same thing. Ive got no clue what the issue might be at this point
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Aug 2, 2021 10:16
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anyone running octoprint with the mqtt plugin? what i want to do is put M03 and M05 in my start and end code respectively have have it publish mqtt messages.
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Aug 2, 2021 10:50
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asterioth posted:So I've changed the extruder gear back to the stock one, made sure the ptfe tube is seated correctly and is clear, and changed the nozzle again and it still seems to be doing the same thing. Ive got no clue what the issue might be at this point Did you calibrate the E axis? You don't absolutely need a caliper - a ruler with mm marks should be close enough for now. or mark it on a strip of paper and measure those marks.
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Aug 2, 2021 13:22
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after drying that offending roll of Jessie PLA at 50C for 6 hours, i was able to make this:  So I guess the SunLu Filadryer S1 is A+ would recommend. Also Printed Solid finally offered a refund or a replacement, which I told them not to worry about.
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Aug 2, 2021 17:06
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It's one of those things that anyone using FDM should plan on doing, because you will get a roll that does that to you eventually. You may want to think about making that ikea-based drybox project to store multiple rolls at a time, but it's up to you. I had horrible problems with a roll of PETG and then the heat dome dried it out  prints are usable now
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Aug 2, 2021 18:11
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I keep all my non-in-use rolls in gallon bags with dessicant, which has been fine. This roll was definitely moist directly from the mfgr, though.
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Aug 2, 2021 18:48
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Doctor Zero posted:Did you calibrate the E axis? You don't absolutely need a caliper - a ruler with mm marks should be close enough for now. or mark it on a strip of paper and measure those marks. Im going to do that next, not sure why it would be off after returning to the stock gear since it didnt have any problems printing with that originally.
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Aug 2, 2021 19:19
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Cory Parsnipson posted:Ah ok. You make the lack enclosure still sound enticing. Do you need to keep the doors open when printing PLA and/or PETG? I think I heard that bridging might suffer otherwise but I'm not sure if that's true. The instructions recommend leaving the doors ajar for PLA. It doesn’t say anything about PETG. This chart says no enclosure for PETG but it might work anyway. https://help.prusa3d.com/en/materials. I am moving the power supply outside the enclosure today. I can print some stuff with PETG after that with the doors closed and see what happens. The lid can be propped open with the included lever which is another cooling option.
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Aug 2, 2021 20:31
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Deviant posted:I keep all my non-in-use rolls in gallon bags with dessicant, which has been fine. I mean if anything it's probably somethi g they'd be happy to know about Probably helps them find holes in there process where moisture got introduced in the warehouse or whatever
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Aug 2, 2021 20:54
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asterioth posted:Im going to do that next, not sure why it would be off after returning to the stock gear since it didnt have any problems printing with that originally. Hard to say. Did you check to ensure you didn’t set the extrusion to volumetric? I’ve done that before. Its also possible that it’s always been a little off an messing with it pushed it over the edge. Don’t worry, you’ll get it.
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Aug 2, 2021 21:21
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New Vulcan resin report: I got my sample of the new Vulcan resin from Atlas recently. I knew it needed a bit longer cure times from early reports so I started at 3 second exposure for 30 micron layer heights and kept upping the exposure by .2 until I got a working print. I use really thin supports and Vulcan doesn't seem to do so well with them at all. I finally started getting full prints at 3.8 and after a small failure I'm now at 3.9 sec exposure and error free so far. The colour is really nice for minis and the detail level is definitely fantastic. From other reports it sounds like I have way higher exposure times than normal but I don't see an impact on the print and I'm getting none of the usual signs of overexposure.
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Aug 2, 2021 23:54
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Are they touting better print quality as a selling point or something? How's the flexibility? Does the mini survive a fall from table height?
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Aug 3, 2021 00:45
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Zorro KingOfEngland posted:Are they touting better print quality as a selling point or something? The main benefits to me is that it's made in the US so hopefully consistent supply is possible, it doesn't come in a bottle, and it'll be cheaper than most other resin brands. It's not an abs-like resin and still fairly brittle, but the detail level is really really good in what I've printed so far.
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Aug 3, 2021 01:05
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Yeah the north american supply chain thing is huge. worst case with brittleness will be adding a little bit of flexible resin which is what I'm doing with everything else anyways
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Aug 3, 2021 01:42
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w00tmonger posted:Yeah the north american supply chain thing is huge. worst case with brittleness will be adding a little bit of flexible resin which is what I'm doing with everything else anyways When you guys mix in flexible resin, what ratio do you use? I got a bottle fo Tenacious but I haven't cracked it open yet.
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Aug 3, 2021 05:06
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Bucnasti posted:When you guys mix in flexible resin, what ratio do you use? I use 10%, 10-20 seems to be the norm
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Aug 3, 2021 06:19
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Doctor Zero posted:Hard to say. Did you check to ensure you didn’t set the extrusion to volumetric? I’ve done that before. Its also possible that it’s always been a little off an messing with it pushed it over the edge. Don’t worry, you’ll get it. Yeah thats still set to off, after trying the formula for figuring out the esteps and it going from being like 96mm extruded to 102 extruded, after manually messing with it I got it to 100mm extruded at 100mm set. Now im starting a print to see if this poo poo still pops up or if this solved it
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Aug 3, 2021 06:51
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Nope, seems to sill be doing the same thing
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Aug 3, 2021 07:36
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asterioth posted:Nope, seems to sill be doing the same thing I had this problem before, once it was a slight bend in the bowden tube which hindered filament passing. Disengage the extruder gear, push and pull some filament through. Use filament that has the gear marks from the extruder already! Try to turn the filament and push/pull again. It should be very easy to push through. If not, try another tube. Another time my ptfe tube was a bit "swollen" from to high temperatures at the hot end. New tube fixed that. If the printing errors are always at exactly the same place, you may have accumulated dust/dirt on your axis or roller wheels.
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Aug 3, 2021 10:15
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RabbitWizard posted:I had this problem before, once it was a slight bend in the bowden tube which hindered filament passing. Disengage the extruder gear, push and pull some filament through. Use filament that has the gear marks from the extruder already! Try to turn the filament and push/pull again. It should be very easy to push through. If not, try another tube. swapped the tube out when i reseated it in the hotend, didn't seem to change anything. looking at the wheels closely it looks like the one on the right side of the x carriage that has the eccentric nut is looking really damaged, I think that might be the problem after all. Going to order some wheels and see if that solves it.
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Aug 3, 2021 11:45
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Cory Parsnipson posted:Huh, I've been thinking about making an enclosure and was looking at the Lack designs. Do you have any suggestions for "real enclosures" that you mentioned? I did not know that was a thing. I also have a prusa mk3. I also coated the inside with "space blankets" (mylar reflective sheet) but it was a lot of work and didn't add any insulation when I measured from the outside with a FLIR camera versus one panel I didn't coat. It did improve the lighting situation a bit though with all the reflection. I've since upgraded to a single Bridgelux EB commercial strip LED for the lighting and I'd never go back to the crappy "12V LED strip" you get 5m for $10 on eBay. Those always burn out from being in the heat (and being overdriven) and have awful color comparatively.
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Aug 3, 2021 13:23
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w00tmonger posted:I use 10%, 10-20 seems to be the norm I eyeball it, but yeah, 10-20% seems right.
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Aug 3, 2021 13:50
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w00tmonger posted:I mean if anything it's probably somethi g they'd be happy to know about The moisture in the roll was probably from the water bath used to cool the extruded plastic. Desiccant and vacuum bags are theater, dry your poo poo if it needs it. this post brought to you by ultem. gently caress ultem.
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Aug 3, 2021 15:18
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Having some kind of dehumidifier setup for filament spools should probably be an expected cost like the gloves and wash station for resin printing.
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Aug 3, 2021 15:43
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I am at my wit's loving end with this printer. This roll came out of its bag within 5 minutes of this print.   i have tried a higher nozzle. i have tried a lower nozzle. i have run first layer calibration more times than i care to think about. i have washed it. the filament is in a heated drybox. i am using default prusaslicer settings. i do not understand the loving problem. the layers stick fine. it is JUST the support material that does this poo poo. i'm starting to think that i, or the printer have a screw loose. possibly both. Deviant fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Aug 3, 2021 |
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Aug 3, 2021 16:26
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w00tmonger posted:Yeah the north american supply chain thing is huge. worst case with brittleness will be adding a little bit of flexible resin which is what I'm doing with everything else anyways How do you mix your resins and not make a gigantic mess?
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Aug 3, 2021 16:45
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So I dropped and mostly mixed a few thousand M3 screws. Although I have sorted them by hand already, I was inspired to build a sorting mechanismn and two days later I have just finished it. I am amazed by how well it works. I could even easily motorize it. Gotta love how 3D printing allows us to easily create this sorta solution to this type of problem.
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Aug 3, 2021 16:52
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Deviant posted:I am at my wit's loving end with this printer. Put some purple glue stick on the bed. Don't read until you have tried it with glue: it looks like your nozzle is too close to the bed, and that causes peeling when printing with PETG which I think this is, right? PETG is a very sticky filament so if the nozzle is dragging through it it tends to pull it up. raise your first layer offset about 0.15 to 0.2 above what you would use for PLA. But just use the glue and get a working print rather than tearing out your hair once again. I glue the bed anytime I'm slightly worried about adhesion, idgaf Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Aug 3, 2021 |
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Aug 3, 2021 16:58
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Sagebrush posted:Put some purple glue stick on the bed. i am unclear on why i should have to do that on a prusa PEI bed. My understanding is that the PEI is supposed to make that unnecessary. In addition to the fact that it's going to make a huge mess. Edit: it's PLA. Deviant fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Aug 3, 2021 |
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Aug 3, 2021 16:59
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