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How do you even choose a tire? I bought a used bike last year that came with gatorskins and they're pretty much toast. I'm taking a look for replacements and goddamn there's a lot of options. I'm not commuting on bike, it's just for bumming around town on the weekends, so cheaper is better.
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Aug 17, 2021 16:25
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Casu Marzu posted:How do you even choose a tire? I bought a used bike last year that came with gatorskins and they're pretty much toast. I'm taking a look for replacements and goddamn there's a lot of options. I'm not commuting on bike, it's just for bumming around town on the weekends, so cheaper is better. Give a price range of +/- $20 and tire size. There'll always be something that fits.
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Aug 17, 2021 17:51
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kimbo305 posted:Give a price range of +/- $20 and tire size. There'll always be something that fits. Currently on 700x25 tires, could maybe go larger but my rear fender doesn't have a whole lot of extra room. If I could get it in the $30-40/tire range I would be happy. LBS has some Continental Ultra Sport IIIs on sale and idk they seem like a perfectly good tire with some puncture resistance. I feel like bike tire shopping is pretty much how car tire shopping is, unless you're driving/biking at a high level or looking for use on a specific surface type, it's all pretty much interchangeable for a normal rear end tire. 
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Aug 17, 2021 17:59
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Casu Marzu posted:I feel like bike tire shopping is pretty much how car tire shopping is, unless you're driving/biking at a high level or looking for use on a specific surface type, it's all pretty much interchangeable for a normal rear end tire. E: In my opinion, that Pasela PT is a good balance of puncture resistance, comfort, handling, and price. If you have any of those you value more than others I'd recommend something else. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Aug 17, 2021 |
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Aug 17, 2021 18:14
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CopperHound posted:In the $30-40 price range there is a huge amount of choice. My go-to tire in that range for people who don't have a specific requirement is Panaracer Pasela Pro Tite, but there are lots of other fine tires.  ship ite: this seems like the best price for folding bead 25mms.
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Aug 17, 2021 18:54
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I've got this rattling noise coming from my back wheel. Streamable video link, tried to record it. Happens whether I'm pedalling or not, doesn't start at super low speed, but seems to increase with speed, at least up to a point. Seems to be louder when freewheeling (but maybe that's just because I can pay more attention to it then) I don't see it rubbing against anything. Took the wheel off, didn't hear it when bouncing it on the floor or just shaking it. Tried deflating and re-inflating the wheel. Tried tightening the cassette a bit - as I had changed it myself just a week and a half ago. Anything else simple I might be missing? Didn't affect riding, but... probably not something I should continue riding with.
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Aug 20, 2021 16:42
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Could it be your off-kilter dork disc? It doesn't seem loose, but I wonder how it got knocked off center in the first place.
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Aug 20, 2021 16:51
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Anyone know where to find max tension specs for sun ringle rims? I'm p sure this seemingly machine built wheel at 148kgf drive side is why it keeps shattering nipples. Jesus Christ. 
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Aug 20, 2021 18:19
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EvilJoven posted:Anyone know where to find max tension specs for sun ringle rims? I'm p sure this seemingly machine built wheel at 148kgf drive side is why it keeps shattering nipples. Never seen any specs on that from Sun, but I think we top our eyeletted CR18s at about 135kgf. Did you guys get it from Damco? I've had machine made wheels from them taco themselves from the huge tensions.
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Aug 20, 2021 19:49
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kimbo305 posted:Could it be your off-kilter dork disc? It doesn't seem loose, but I wonder how it got knocked off center in the first place. Nah, it wasn't that. At least I had proper motivation to finally remove it! I figure I should try re-greasing and attaching the cassette again tomorrow, maybe I messed something up with that.
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Aug 20, 2021 19:57
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Angryhead posted:Nah, it wasn't that. At least I had proper motivation to finally remove it! What part of your cassette are you greasing? They usually go on dry, except sometimes the lockring if you're feeling deluxe
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Aug 20, 2021 20:02
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SimonSays posted:What part of your cassette are you greasing? They usually go on dry, except sometimes the lockring if you're feeling deluxe Yeah, I meant the lockring, not the cassette itself, sorry, should have specified. Good that you made me specify since I definitely still am new to this and liable to do something real foolish, hah.
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Aug 20, 2021 20:09
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SimonSays posted:Never seen any specs on that from Sun, but I think we top our eyeletted CR18s at about 135kgf. No idea where it came from. It's a higher end TA tubeless MTB wheel a customer brought it in after a few spoke nipples grenaded. I started working on the wheel noticed just how tight everything is and when I put the tension meter on it I took a step back. I ended up de tensioning the wheel and readjusting everything. Another nipple exploded while I was doing it. I shouldn't have to wear safety googles at the bloody truing stand.
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Aug 20, 2021 22:31
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Jobst Brandt says: "Tensioning spokes can be dangerous. A spoke can rupture under tension and shoot from the rim, like an arrow from a crossbow, into your eye. "
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Aug 20, 2021 23:32
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EvilJoven posted:No idea where it came from. It's a higher end TA tubeless MTB wheel a customer brought it in after a few spoke nipples grenaded. I started working on the wheel noticed just how tight everything is and when I put the tension meter on it I took a step back. Ugh, miserable work. It's quicker to build a new wheel than do that.
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Aug 21, 2021 00:11
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Salt Fish posted:Jobst Brandt says: "Tensioning spokes can be dangerous. A spoke can rupture under tension and shoot from the rim, like an arrow from a crossbow, into your eye. " Spokes don't really do that anymore, the nipple nearly always breaks first if you're working on a wheel in the truing stand. God help you with old spokes from before stainless steel though.
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Aug 21, 2021 00:12
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Wheels that old usually go straight into the bin, not the truing stand. We don't normally see higher end vintage bikes and anything but top shelf stuff from that far back is going to be much worse than a $50 single wall aluminum wheel, so why bother? We did get one set of wooden wheels come through the shop for truing years ago when I was still new at all this. They were going on a bike over a hundred years old. I was told that under no circumstances was I to approach those wheels with tools in hand, they were for our primary wheel builder only.
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Aug 21, 2021 01:30
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EvilJoven posted:Wheels that old usually go straight into the bin, not the truing stand. We don't normally see higher end vintage bikes and anything but top shelf stuff from that far back is going to be much worse than a $50 single wall aluminum wheel, so why bother? We built up a restoration bike from 1896 for a guy and made him wooden-rim wheels. Cool frame with rear suspension, and I was also given the same instructions as you.
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Aug 21, 2021 02:15
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Angryhead posted:I've got this rattling noise coming from my back wheel. That’s an unhappy noise and I’d suspect the freehub driver mechanism, but you say it happens while pedaling too. Small possibility one of the pawls or something is broken off and bouncing around in there, which is unsafe to say the least.
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Aug 21, 2021 06:38
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SimonSays posted:What part of your cassette are you greasing? They usually go on dry, except sometimes the lockring if you're feeling deluxe Feel like I see arguments both ways about this. Some say thin layer of grease on the freehub body, others say dry I’d always grease or anti sieze the lock ring threads though
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Aug 22, 2021 15:21
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On day two of an overnight I noticed my buddy's back wheel developed a wobble. He had all his gear on the back, it was enough weight that he couldn't park bike at a stop without it tipping backwards and falling over. We looked at it briefly, no spokes were busted and we didn't have too far left to go so we finished the trip. What's the likely thing to be wrong here?
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Aug 22, 2021 16:36
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It's just out of true. No wheel is absolutely perfect and even a theoretically perfect wheel will eventually go out of true from impacts and such. A heavier load will make that happen faster. If you have a spoke wrench in hand and know how to do it true it up as best you can in the field. On a long trip at your next stop where there's a shop you'd want to pop in and see if they can do a quick true and make sure the tension isn't wildly off. It's not a stop riding immediately situation but address it as best you can because it will get worse over time.
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Aug 22, 2021 18:17
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Ah ok. He went to the shop and they were like “that is a crap wheel get a new wheel” so he did.
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Aug 23, 2021 00:03
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Dren posted:Ah ok. He went to the shop and they were like “that is a crap wheel get a new wheel” so he did. It could have been a lovely wheel did it say e*13 on it anywhere?
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Aug 23, 2021 04:53
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Dren posted:Ah ok. He went to the shop and they were like “that is a crap wheel get a new wheel” so he did. Ya theres a definite possibility that it was poo poo anyways and a good excuse to bin it and get a new one, or it was bent out of shape in a way where truing it would at best be only slightly delaying the inevitable. My front wheel on my cross bike's stock wheelset is like that; wobbles towards the loose spokes. If I actually race this year it isn't going to be on those wheels.
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Aug 23, 2021 05:24
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Dren posted:On day two of an overnight I noticed my buddy's back wheel developed a wobble. He had all his gear on the back, it was enough weight that he couldn't park bike at a stop without it tipping backwards and falling over. We looked at it briefly, no spokes were busted and we didn't have too far left to go so we finished the trip. What's the likely thing to be wrong here? Does the wheel still spin freely? Is the rim still round? Could be loose cone nuts.
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Aug 23, 2021 09:44
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loose cone nuts is the name of my band
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Aug 23, 2021 09:50
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VelociBacon posted:It could have been a lovely wheel did it say e*13 on it anywhere? I believe he's got this bike https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/wellington2-xv.htm Wouldn't surprise me if it's a poo poo wheel. The frame is kind of hosed up too.
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Aug 23, 2021 22:48
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Dren posted:I believe he's got this bike https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/wellington2-xv.htm
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Aug 24, 2021 01:10
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So I just went to switch out my cassette between two sets of wheels and I can see that notches formed on the free hub body. I’ve ordered a new free hub body from Hunt but how can I avoid having this happen again? Am I correct that this is a result of undertorquing the cassette? Or..? Google yields a variety of opinions.
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Aug 25, 2021 19:53
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mexecan posted:So I just went to switch out my cassette between two sets of wheels and I can see that notches formed on the free hub body. was the cassette slipping? all freehub bodies will get marks on them
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Aug 25, 2021 19:58
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mexecan posted:So I just went to switch out my cassette between two sets of wheels and I can see that notches formed on the free hub body. You can't really avoid it for an alloy piece. Some hubs have steel inserts in it to reduce the effect, or you can go to titanium on top tier hubs or just plain steel if you don't mind the weight. Torque it down to spec and don't worry about it until it affects shifting performance, which should be 10s of 1000s of miles.
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Aug 25, 2021 20:04
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Get a steel body, only way to prevent it. Even then, it'll get chewed if you ride in lovely enough weather.
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Aug 25, 2021 21:14
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I think most Shimano hubs have a steel freehub body, at least my old ultegra wheel does. All my others have aluminium bodies that are all chewed up to some extent, I only notice when I come to change the cassette. My commuter's wheel is getting tricky to get a cassette on and off now, Every time I change the cassette I say I'll file off the lumps and then never get round to doing it.
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Aug 25, 2021 22:25
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mexecan posted:Am I correct that this is a result of undertorquing the cassette? Or..?
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Aug 25, 2021 22:48
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hemale in pain posted:was the cassette slipping? all freehub bodies will get marks on them It was fine when I had a SRAM 11-42 cassette on there. I noticed the notching when it was a bitch to get off. I recently bought a new bike with a GRX build and 11-34 cassette, which is what prompted the switch - the Hunt wheelset is nicer than the OEM hoops. The new shimano cassette slips a great deal and has visible play when I move it around. I suspect the notches from the SRAM cassette do not line up with the new Shimano cassette rings. New free hub shows up in a few days. 🤷♂️ 
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Aug 26, 2021 03:41
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mexecan posted:It was fine when I had a SRAM 11-42 cassette on there. Is it possible the freehub is some weird size? SRAM 11-42 has to be MTB (narrower) width, so the Shimano cassette whether road or mtb, shouldn't be narrower than the freehub...
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Aug 26, 2021 04:45
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kimbo305 posted:Is it possible the freehub is some weird size? It’s the Hunt SRAM/Shimano 8/9/10/11 speed road hub off their 4 season gravel disc. The Sram cassette is a PG1130, which I’m pretty sure is the same width as the Shimano 11-34. https://www.huntbikewheels.cc/products/replacement-freehub-for-all-hunt-wheelsets
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Aug 26, 2021 05:01
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K, so both MTB width. And you're still running the spacer with the new cassette?
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Aug 26, 2021 05:08
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Angryhead posted:I've got this rattling noise coming from my back wheel. Thanks for the help trying to diagnose it y'all, ended up taking it to a shop today and just got a call back - turns out the bearings on one side of the rear hub were rusted through. e: a Kelly classic for the effort: 
Angryhead fucked around with this message at 14:29 on Aug 26, 2021 |
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Aug 26, 2021 13:39
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