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Danhenge posted:Stain also doesn't actually protect wood. You need some sort of additional coat to provide protection after the stain. Supposedly stain provides some UV protection but I don't think it would do anything about water. Not unless you buy a stain that includes a finish, like polyurethane https://www.hunker.com/13402561/how-does-stain-protect-wood
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Sep 5, 2021 21:27
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Danhenge posted:Stain also doesn't actually protect wood. You need some sort of additional coat to provide protection after the stain. Most stains absolutely do protect against water. We're not talking old school shellacs and things (even though to a point those do as well). It's not nearly as durable as a proper sealer, so for that reason you may want to seal things that water can stand on.
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Sep 5, 2021 22:32
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Motronic posted:Most stains absolutely do protect against water. We're not talking old school shellacs and things (even though to a point those do as well). Are you talking about stain or finish? They're not the same. Stain colors wood. Finish protects wood. Shellac is a finish, poly is a finish, etc Many finishes contain stain, but stain only colors the wood.
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Sep 6, 2021 00:31
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Stains like minwax that you would use on furniture, trim, doors, cabinets, etc. need a clear coat like polyurethane to seal and protect. Exterior stains made for decks, siding, fences, etc. by and large do not need a separate sealer and in many cases putting one over it may be a real bad idea. If you look at data sheets for most water- or oil-based semitransparent or clear house/siding/deck stains and sealers it'll say something like "apply additional coat(s) after 4 hours and before 7 days". That's because once you get past that recoat window the stain is cured to the point that the wood is sealed and won't even accept another coat of the same product. Guess what happens when you try to apply a clear sealer over a product that's made to be water repellent and bead water. A lot of the latex solid color exterior stains are really more like thin exterior paint than anything else. Yeah they'll penetrate bare wood, but they're not particular about adding another coat any time and can often be used over existing paint. They don't need a separate sealer either and using one just makes your life more difficult when you need to freshen it up in a few years.
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Sep 6, 2021 00:37
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Yeah deck stain is kinda different from just plain old wood stain types. Most wood stains have a bit of oil but idk that I would ever consider that enough to be actually protective.
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Sep 6, 2021 00:47
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"Deck Stain" is always marketed as "stain and sealer" or "stain and finish." It's not actually just stain. People misuse the term "stain" a ton, which is why you'll get people staining and not finishing wood and other crazy stuff because they just buy something that says "stain" on it. Words have meanings. Staining wood is optional, finishing wood is not* *except when it is optional like redwood fencing
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Sep 6, 2021 01:55
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I'm talking about this deck stain, not an actual/normal wood stain It's completely solid brown. It's what was used to stain the deck when the deck was installed.  You can see there's no visible wood grain. Because I have both exterior paint and the deck stain on hand I was deciding whether to paint the fence with paint or with the deck stain. I'm inclined to go with the paint because the deck stain seems to have a bit of texture to it which I think would look weird on the fence boards. Sous Videodrome fucked around with this message at 02:18 on Sep 6, 2021 |
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Sep 6, 2021 02:13
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Sous Videodrome posted:I'm talking about this deck stain, not an actual/normal wood stain I used that to re-coat a wooden play structure. That stuff is amazing at that job, completely coating over something. I wouldn’t call that a stain, it’s more of a paint with a durability layer of fine grit on the surface. It will completely fill in any cracks, splinters, nail holes, etc.
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Sep 6, 2021 04:54
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What are we looking at in the 2nd picture, are those rollers?
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Sep 6, 2021 05:01
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Inner Light posted:What are we looking at in the 2nd picture, are those rollers? His fire pit. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3978174&pagenumber=1&perpage=40
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Sep 6, 2021 05:52
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Alarbus posted:His fire pit. Whenever I scroll past that picture I think it’s a bunch of raw chicken or something on a grill. The color of those logs is real unappetizing
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Sep 6, 2021 12:16
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Yeah calling Deck Over a stain will give you really misguided expectations. It has an oatmeal like consistency and zero transparency.
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Sep 6, 2021 13:13
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Inner Light posted:What are we looking at in the 2nd picture, are those rollers? Lol I thought the same thing until I noticed the pine cone.
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Sep 6, 2021 13:43
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BigFactory posted:Whenever I scroll past that picture I think it’s a bunch of raw chicken or something on a grill. The color of those logs is real unappetizing I thought it was pigs feet for a dog to chew on
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Sep 6, 2021 14:49
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Modus Man posted:I used that to re-coat a wooden play structure. That stuff is amazing at that job, completely coating over something. I wouldn’t call that a stain, it’s more of a paint with a durability layer of fine grit on the surface. It will completely fill in any cracks, splinters, nail holes, etc. Yeah, that makes sense. I realized after a few posts that people in the thread thought I meant a normal stain. It would be awesome to strip all the cedar at my house and actually stain it, but every professional I've consulted with says there's too much paint and the texture is too rough so it's impossible. BigFactory posted:Whenever I scroll past that picture I think it’s a bunch of raw chicken or something on a grill. The color of those logs is real unappetizing Well you don't eat em. I just posted it because it was already uploaded and has some of the stained deck boards in the background. Home Zone: My next question is this. The upper story of the house extends past the basement. So there's a cantilevered section about 4 feet wide. I'm in the process of (re) finishing my basement and I'm wondering how much insulation to cram in the cantilever. There's old loose insulation in there. My current plan is to leave the loose stuff in there and put as much batt insulation as fits in there then drywall over it. Is there any reason to remove the loose insulation? Any reason to not use batts and use a different product? And finally is there any reason not to fill it as full as possible?  Peering back into the cantilevered section. Between each joist is basically just a box 1/3 full of this old settled blow in (?) insulation covered in drywall dust. 
Sous Videodrome fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Sep 6, 2021 |
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Sep 6, 2021 16:15
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The Dave posted:Yeah calling Deck Over a stain will give you really misguided expectations. It has an oatmeal like consistency and zero transparency. Which is typically called "solid stain" around here. There are transparent stains that also protect against water.
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Sep 6, 2021 16:21
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I believe those usually include something like a polyurethane finish, so it's also not simply a stain. It's comparable to buying a product that contains paint + primer; you just need to be aware of what you're buying and using
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Sep 6, 2021 16:31
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QuarkJets posted:I believe those usually include something like a polyurethane finish, so it's also not simply a stain. It's comparable to buying a product that contains paint + primer; you just need to be aware of what you're buying and using Not necessarily. I think the first thing that everyone is confused about is what makes stain "not paint" and it's really simple: stain penetrates into the wood. That's the only qualification to be a stain. Most stains provide both water and basically all stains provide UV protection (simply because of the pigments). Anyone confused about any of this, please please just read something. Like this: https://www.woodworkingtrade.com/wood-stain-vs-sealer/ I get it, these terms get misused all the time, you may only be familiar with some very specific products, or you may be going off of bad advice from grandpa. But there is no need to be confused, and there's not a lot of gray area here. These are well defined terms, but they get misused and misunderstood a lot. Also, marketing of products like sealers falsely suggest that they are required over any and all stains. This is not true.
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Sep 6, 2021 17:06
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Paul MaudDib posted:My screens don't fit right and when I open up the windows my house gets swarmed with flies. I don't think this is widely known but the window manufacturers can help here. A few years ago I was in a rental house where the screens had been trashed. I called the window manufacturer, gave them my address, and they looked up the original 30 year old PO for the house and shipped me a set of made-to-order screens for every window for not a lot of money.
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Sep 6, 2021 18:21
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KS posted:I don't think this is widely known but the window manufacturers can help here. A few years ago I was in a rental house where the screens had been trashed. I called the window manufacturer, gave them my address, and they looked up the original 30 year old PO for the house and shipped me a set of made-to-order screens for every window for not a lot of money. I'll second this. I've contacted Pella for a replacement screen door for our patio door which was made in 1985. We bought this house in May.
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Sep 6, 2021 23:17
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it looks like the water valve that supplies my washing machine in the garage is loose at the drywall and inside the wall, the escutcheon is loose and free spinning, and i can move the entire valve forward and back about an inch. something to call a plumber for? something to diy with an expanding foam? something to ignore?  The other valve is the same way but doesn't have any play/movement. No leaks that i can see, just noticed the valve and by association the pipe inside the wall seem to have some play. Deviant fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Sep 6, 2021 |
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Sep 6, 2021 23:29
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Deviant posted:it looks like the water valve that supplies my washing machine in the garage is loose at the drywall and inside the wall, the escutcheon is loose and free spinning, and i can move the entire valve forward and back about an inch. Ignore. The original plumber was just too lazy to properly block/secure the pipe, but not a big deal unless water hammer makes it bang all around. Just make sure you hold the valve with a wrench or your other hand if you go to close the valve or attach a new hose. You don't want to put a ton of stress on the pipes by torqueing on it.
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Sep 7, 2021 00:54
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On window chat, I have been unable to identify the manufacturer of mine and need to replace a couple with blown seals. I at least would want to reach out to the company and see if they have any program to help out before I commit to shelling out $250 per thermal unit for reglazing. No label or anything found anywhere on the window or frame, which is made out of wood. The place was built in the early 2000s. Any ideas on finding the manufacturer or am I out of luck? Plus I bet them helping a subsequent owner with blown seals is unlikely. No luck with this article: https://www.hunker.com/12425836/how-to-find-out-who-manufactured-the-windows-in-my-home
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Sep 7, 2021 01:11
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One of our double-pane glass windows is foggy. How do I figure out the manufacturer to see if it's under warranty? (Put in by previous owner, no records.)
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Sep 7, 2021 01:20
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Sous Videodrome posted:Home Zone: My next question is this. The upper story of the house extends past the basement. So there's a cantilevered section about 4 feet wide. I'm in the process of (re) finishing my basement and I'm wondering how much insulation to cram in the cantilever. There's old loose insulation in there. My current plan is to leave the loose stuff in there and put as much batt insulation as fits in there then drywall over it. Is there any reason to remove the loose insulation? Any reason to not use batts and use a different product? And finally is there any reason not to fill it as full as possible? Batt insulation and shove it in there. You'll have to compress it to get below the wires, but that's easy enough. Our basement is fully insulated from the first floor and it makes a huge difference. I can have kids literally screaming in the basement and barely hear a sound when I'm on the first floor.
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Sep 7, 2021 01:36
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EVERYWHERE 
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Mann now I wish I put insulation up before I did my basement ceiling.
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Sep 7, 2021 01:51
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Arsenic Lupin posted:One of our double-pane glass windows is foggy. How do I figure out the manufacturer to see if it's under warranty? (Put in by previous owner, no records.) Check the corners of the glass for markings. If this is a double hung or similar sometimes there will be a sticker or engraving somewhere you can't normally see, so try when it's open, swing the sash(es) out in a cleaning position if they have them, etc. And if it's a sticker it may have fallen off so try multiple windows to see if maybe one survived.
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Sep 7, 2021 15:41
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and here we go… 10am and the first post is out, not too bad. I’ll be replacing bad parts on the panels detached, replacing two posts, and going down the backside of the entire fence and hammering down all of the popped out nails and adding a few more. I don’t think my neighbor will notice if I clear out some plants right along the fence line, especially the 4 foot tall oak sapling that is riiight next to the fence.
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Sep 7, 2021 15:52
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devmd01 posted:I don’t think my neighbor will notice if I clear out some plants right along the fence line, especially the 4 foot tall oak sapling that is riiight next to the fence. Better be careful removing trees, i've heard tree law is pretty crazy based on the reddit posts i've seen
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Sep 7, 2021 15:54
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It’s clearly a squirrel stashed nut that blossomed. They do the bare minimum on their yard, and I’ve been in clear communication with the other owner this entire time. They will not notice or care.
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Sep 7, 2021 16:08
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DoubleT2172 posted:Better be careful removing trees, i've heard tree law is pretty crazy based on the reddit posts i've seen A sapling barely constitutes a tree. All those reddit tree law horror stories are about 3' diameter trees, or something 100+ years old, which in either case will cost tens of thousands of dollars to replace. Then add in treble damages for a 6 figure court award that you'll never collect on. A 4' sapling is like $10.
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Sep 7, 2021 16:56
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Goons that live in states where Menards exists likely know how they always advertise everything being 11% off, except it's basically a scam in that you are forced to submit a rebate via snail mail and follow a bunch of convoluted rules to actually 'save' 11%. Well TIL, Home Depot does this too, in states where Menards stores exists, to compete with this 'deal'. They do not appear to advertise this anywhere, at least nowhere I've ever seen before today. This deal is only good when Menards is running their 'sale', which for the last year has been every day. You can submit claims for items purchased within the last 30 days here: https://www.homedepotrebates11percent.com/#/home The document of excluded products is 1,106 pages long, lmao, so YMMV. I just submitted my latest receipt, and will find out in 30 days whether or not I'll actually get something back. Kinda mad I never knew about this before today!!!
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Sep 7, 2021 17:35
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I just had to email the electrician I've been trying to get to come look at my electrical mast for the last two weeks, asking if I should look somewhere else. I've been trying to get an electrician out here since June. It's always been difficult in this state finding people willing to accept money in exchange for services, but this year it's been especially insane.
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Sep 7, 2021 17:44
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I agree. For any contractor work over the past year I’ve contacted multiple and get firm dates when they can come and then cancel the others after one of them actually comes for an estimate.
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Sep 7, 2021 17:49
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Never had any issues with the Menards rebate here. I just keep a stack of the forms with my info filled out and drop one in an envelope with my current batch of receipt stubs periodically and always get the voucher a few weeks later. I've also noticed they've never been picky on the "must be mailed by x date" stipulation. 
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Sep 7, 2021 18:12
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Tremors posted:Never had any issues with the Menards rebate here. I just keep a stack of the forms with my info filled out and drop one in an envelope with my current batch of receipt stubs periodically and always get the voucher a few weeks later. I've also noticed they've never been picky on the "must be mailed by x date" stipulation. Their advertising is deceptive and they make the process complicated to dissuade people from going through all the steps correctly and timely in the hopes they don't actually have to pay you. I'm not actually getting 11% off back when the rebate can only be redeemed on more purchases at Menards. Also it's 2021 and you still have to buy a stamp and send these things in the mail, and when/if they do show back up to you they're packaged up like advertisements making them easy to toss in the recycling with the rest of the junk mail. It's the principle of the thing. I found at least one class action lawsuit in progress for them. Plus the owner of Menards is extremely lovely and their early COVID behavior has put them on my permanent poo poo list.
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Sep 7, 2021 18:47
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Sirotan posted:Plus the owner of Menards is extremely lovely and their early COVID behavior has put them on my permanent poo poo list. In high school I knew a guy who worked at Menards. I don't remember all his stories, but I do remember him saying that the owner is a total micromanaging douchebag, and that when he visited stores he would poo poo-can people on the spot for minor infractions.
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Sep 7, 2021 19:03
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Sirotan posted:Their advertising is deceptive and they make the process complicated to dissuade people from going through all the steps correctly and timely in the hopes they don't actually have to pay you. I'm not actually getting 11% off back when the rebate can only be redeemed on more purchases at Menards. Also it's 2021 and you still have to buy a stamp and send these things in the mail, and when/if they do show back up to you they're packaged up like advertisements making them easy to toss in the recycling with the rest of the junk mail. I dunno, mine have always come as a bifolded card that's pretty distinct if you've received one before. If you use the USPS informed delivery service you even get more heads up!  Would I prefer cash? Sure, but owning a home means there's no shortage of things to buy so it's not very hard to find things to use them on.
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Sep 7, 2021 19:10
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Tremors posted:I dunno, mine have always come as a bifolded card that's pretty distinct if you've received one before. If you use the USPS informed delivery service you even get more heads up! I've personally not had an issue getting my rebate card back the whole one time I remembered to do it on time, but it is an unnecessary hassle designed to decrease compliance, and the comment about how nondescript the cards look is something I found in two different places today while I was reading about the HD rebates. I do not shop at Menards unless it is something I need right now and absolutely can't get anywhere else, anyway.
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Sep 7, 2021 19:15
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Sirotan posted:It's the principle of the thing. I found at least one class action lawsuit in progress for them. Plus the owner of Menards is extremely lovely and their early COVID behavior has put them on my permanent poo poo list. Menards is definitely lovely, especially for their own management team (https://www.milwaukeemag.com/bigmoney-john-menard/), no question there. Out of curiosity, what was their early COVID behavior in your neck of the woods? They were the first store in our area to require masks, and they didn't allow kids in the store just to keep attendance at a minimum.
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Sep 7, 2021 20:12
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