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KingColliwog posted:Why don't you like V6s with a big dynos followed by 2-3 V2 moves? How else would I claim my V6 climber status? If you're not destroying your shoulders and ankles are you a real climber brah?
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Sep 11, 2021 23:22
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Salisbury Snape posted:So I'm pretty green to climbing, started going to a local climbing gym with a friend that's qualified instructor about 6 weeks ago. I'm loving every minute so far! There's often more friction in the system than you expect. l've definitely belayed people that are 4 stone heavier and while you get airtime when they fall, lowering is still nicely controllable. You could get an edelrid ohm if you're really concerned. It clips onto the first bolt like a quickdraw and stops the belayer from shooting off the ground.
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Sep 11, 2021 23:25
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Slow News Day posted:My philosophy is that if it's not the type of problem one is likely to encounter outdoors, it's dumb and also a waste of good wall space. Marry me
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Sep 12, 2021 01:16
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Slow News Day posted:My philosophy is that if it's not the type of problem one is likely to encounter outdoors, it's dumb and also a waste of good wall space. i hate this poo poo. you might as well say barbells and dumbbells are bad because they dont look and feel like rocks
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Sep 12, 2021 03:02
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If you need to weight train you can just lift rocks
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Sep 12, 2021 03:08
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Verviticus posted:i hate this poo poo. you might as well say barbells and dumbbells are bad because they dont look and feel like rocks ...what
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Sep 12, 2021 03:09
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Slow News Day posted:...what what fine, ill be charitable: its obviously a strained analogy but its pathetic lack of creativity to take a setting that can contain things you literally cant find in nature and go but why isnt this like the poo poo i do outside?. just loving go outside M. Night Skymall posted:Alternatively, you can do those problems outdoors. You probably aren't going to run at a wall and jump outdoors though, because the potential for injury is too high. Just climb in a gym with a lot of wall space and do the problems you like. this is the less frustrated way to put it Verviticus fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Sep 12, 2021 |
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Sep 12, 2021 03:09
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Parkour dyno poo poo takes up too much wall space imo
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Sep 12, 2021 04:01
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KingColliwog posted:Why don't you like V6s with a big dynos followed by 2-3 V2 moves? How else would I claim my V6 climber status? 😬 hitting pretty close to home here. My technical highest difficulty problem completed is 100% just because I could do the first running start move, and everything after was v3ish.
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Sep 12, 2021 04:26
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Verviticus posted:what The purpose of indoor climbing is to prepare one for outdoor climbing, or to fill that void in the absence of the latter. If that wasn't the case, indoor climbing problems would not at all resemble outdoor problems. You wouldn't have plastic holds that come in similar shapes/types (crimps, pinches, slopers, etc.) as holds that you find on rock, walls would not have features that resemble outdoor features (e.g. cracks, roofs, etc.), and you wouldn't have moves that require similar techniques. Parkour poo poo should only exist in parkour gyms and fields. Climbing is its own sport. Running-start problems are a corruption, and are just as dumb as "speed climbing". Hot Diggity! posted:Parkour dyno poo poo takes up too much wall space imo Also this. Especially ones that are traversals.
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Sep 12, 2021 04:35
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Slow News Day posted:Parkour poo poo should only exist in parkour gyms and fields. Climbing is its own sport. Running-start problems are a corruption, and are just as dumb as "speed climbing". gently caress off with this elitist horseshit Slow News Day posted:The purpose of indoor climbing is to prepare one for outdoor climbing, or to fill that void in the absence of the latter. If that wasn't the case, indoor climbing problems would not at all resemble outdoor problems. You wouldn't have plastic holds that come in similar shapes/types (crimps, pinches, slopers, etc.) as holds that you find on rock, walls would not have features that resemble outdoor features (e.g. cracks, roofs, etc.), and you wouldn't have moves that require similar techniques. nah man, its about doing a fun athletic hobby, and its easier to build and maintain indoor settings, especially a dry environment with padding. i could understand if you get that confused, because as you say, some of the hold shapes and basic design does overlap! but otherwise, go outside if you want to climb outside separately, i should highlight that ive got literally nothing wrong with the imitation of outside shapes, problems and concepts and actually enjoy it in a gym. i just dont think prescribing how an individual, mostly free-form sport should look and feel - because you really like climbing outside - is a reasonable approach if you dont want to sound like a prick Verviticus fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Sep 12, 2021 |
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Sep 12, 2021 05:10
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Verviticus posted:gently caress off with this elitist horseshit With all due respect, you are the one who comes across as a prick. Read my posts and then read your replies. I'm just sharing my opinion. Maybe try to cool off a bit?
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Sep 12, 2021 05:19
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sorry, its my opinion that your opinion is elitist horseshit. maybe its rude, i apologize
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Sep 12, 2021 06:17
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A lot of indoor climbing will continue to diverge from outdoor climbing with the sport finally in the Olympics. You should expect to see more youth climbing competitions pop up, and a larger push to set problems that can separate climbers for the purpose of competition. As a result, a lot of things that don't quite resemble outdoor climbing will be set and practiced for, because it makes it easier to stratify climbers. Whether or not you like it, this will be the reality for a lot of gyms. That said, if you believe that indoor climbing should primarily train for outdoor climbing, I think it's still worth keeping an open mind about how different kinds of problems can train different skills that are relevant to outdoor climbing, even if it's not immediately obvious. For example, I've found that working on things like coordination dynos help with things like system board climbing because they help me understand different ways my body can move, and that has subsequently translated to outdoor climbing. I really did not like compy-style problems for a long time because I similarly thought they were a waste when I mostly wanted to improve my outdoor bouldering ability, but I realized that they could actually help me train some of my weaknesses if I approached them with the right attitude.
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Sep 12, 2021 06:23
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Jumpy comp setting is popular cause a) it looks cool for the audience b) allows an athlete more attempts as those problems rarely have a singular move that shuts them down and are less physically draining. The campus climb setting that was so popular a few years ago seems to have more or less disappeared. No more fotless rose moves, hand cuff pullups or deep monos. One of my biggest gripe with parkour problems is that they take up alot of wall space and the holds used are so big that it's hard to fit more problems around them.
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Sep 12, 2021 07:14
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Sigmund Fraud posted:One of my biggest gripe with parkour problems is that they take up alot of wall space and the holds used are so big that it's hard to fit more problems around them. yah i think this is probably a reasonable concern in gyms without a lot of wall space. i wish my gym set more parkour style moves but maybe not every week as they go across the gym or it would drop throughput by a lot in busy hours
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Sep 12, 2021 07:38
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Slow News Day posted:The purpose of indoor climbing is to prepare one for outdoor climbing, or to fill that void in the absence of the latter. If that wasn't the case, indoor climbing problems would not at all resemble outdoor problems. You wouldn't have plastic holds that come in similar shapes/types (crimps, pinches, slopers, etc.) as holds that you find on rock, walls would not have features that resemble outdoor features (e.g. cracks, roofs, etc.), and you wouldn't have moves that require similar techniques. There are plenty of indoor climbers who have never been outside, this might be the purpose for you but it's not some universal truth
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Sep 12, 2021 07:45
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Papercut posted:There are plenty of indoor climbers who have never been outside, this might be the purpose for you but it's not some universal truth People can climb wherever they want. But, having known dozens of such people who previously climbed only indoors, I can tell you that once they experienced outdoor climbing, it changed their entire perspective of the sport, and they gained the ability to distinguish actual climbing from stupid fads and bullshit that are primarily designed for spectators. Some still fool around with parkour type problems when they climb at gyms, but they understand that its mostly for shits and giggles and not because itll make them better climbers. I understand some of you like such problems, and to be clear there is nothing wrong with liking them, but they do objectively take up a lot more space, and not everyone has the luxury of access to massive gyms.
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Sep 12, 2021 08:21
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Slow News Day posted:...distinguish actual climbing from stupid fads and bullshit that are primarily designed for spectators. Some still fool around with parkour type problems when they climb at gyms, but they understand that its mostly for shits and giggles and not because itll make them better climbers. yeah see dude posts like that are why i wasnt polite to you to begin with, because you talk and sound like an rear end in a top hat
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Sep 12, 2021 09:56
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Ive climbed outdoors and I prefer indoors for the convenience and lower risk of injury. But ymmv.
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Sep 12, 2021 13:56
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Slow News Day posted:People can climb wherever they want. But, having known dozens of such people who previously climbed only indoors, I can tell you that once they experienced outdoor climbing, it changed their entire perspective of the sport, and they gained the ability to distinguish actual climbing from stupid fads and bullshit that are primarily designed for spectators. Some still fool around with parkour type problems when they climb at gyms, but they understand that its mostly for shits and giggles and not because itll make them better climbers. Yeah, I've climbed outdoors all over the place for some 20 years, and this attitude sucks. There's nothing wrong with allowing indoor climbing to evolve as its own sport. Also most outdoor climbers are elitist gatekeeping shits, which is certainly not going to help move people outside. I'm sure in your own little bubble everyone loves outdoor climbing, but indoor climbing is many, many times larger than it now and it's only going to shift further in that direction as more gyms open up around the world. Outdoor literally can't keep up, and if it did you probably wouldn't like it anyway.
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Sep 12, 2021 14:35
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M. Night Skymall posted:Yeah, I've climbed outdoors all over the place for some 20 years, and this attitude sucks. There's nothing wrong with allowing indoor climbing to evolve as its own sport. Also most outdoor climbers are elitist gatekeeping shits, which is certainly not going to help move people outside. I'm sure in your own little bubble everyone loves outdoor climbing, but indoor climbing is many, many times larger than it now and it's only going to shift further in that direction as more gyms open up around the world. Outdoor literally can't keep up, and if it did you probably wouldn't like it anyway. I agree with this but I also think parkour stuff sucks and is dumb. I just don't care if other people like it.
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Sep 12, 2021 16:04
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Endjinneer posted:There's often more friction in the system than you expect. l've definitely belayed people that are 4 stone heavier and while you get airtime when they fall, lowering is still nicely controllable. Its not holding him that's really the problem. More that I end up half way up the wall if he takes any sort of uncontrolled fall. The 30kg bag is working wonders to stop this but I am probably going to invest in a weighted vest so that I can move around on the ground more easily. Top roping hasn't been so much of an issue, only lead climbing. Thanks for the recommendation of the elerid ohm though, it's probably something we will give a go.
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Sep 12, 2021 16:34
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Slow News Day posted:My gym had a comp last Friday and they left the problems up over the weekend. I went yesterday and couldn't do a single one of them. Slow News Day posted:I started climbing in May again, and last week sent a sandbagged V5 that my gym had set up. Highest I've done (in this gym) is a V6 so I'm pretty happy to be nearing my previous peak. If you're climbing at this level, frankly, you haven't come across many outdoor problems that can apply comp climbing concepts. Just a few examples - The Wizard (V7) in Yosemite has a running start where you jump off another boulder. Rainbow Rocket (V11) in Font is a large dyno with an additional footstep that is essentially a modern comp problem. The crux of Planet X (V6) in Joshua Tree is an awkward slab dyno (it's also a running start for shorter people). The crux of pitch 16 on the Dawn Wall is an 8ft sideways coordination dyno. Again, it's worth keeping an open mind about how "parkour" style problems can be applicable to outdoor climbing. Even if you do believe that indoor climbing should only help you train for outdoor climbing (which simply isn't the reality anymore), you'll become a better climber if you understand when these kinds of moves can be useful for training.
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Sep 12, 2021 16:40
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Hot Diggity! posted:Parkour dyno poo poo takes up too much wall space imo That's my biggest issue with it. In a small gym space it takes up a lot of route space and fall zone space when someone is trying it. It's fun and I don't mind the occasional problem like that but when there are a lot it can kind of suck.
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Sep 12, 2021 17:42
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Slimy Hog posted:I agree with this but I also think parkour stuff sucks and is dumb. I just don't care if other people like it. I'm also terrible at it, but as I force myself to give at least a few serious efforts on them every time I climb I've improved. Also as I'm getting older/have a kid I can really see the value in training run/jump/general agility, and it's nice to be able to do that while climbing, because god knows I'm not going to do any box jumps. The main gym I climb at has a crossfit type facility inside it, and it's really funny watching those guys effortlessly leap up a problem I can't start, and then be unable to do like anything else at my flash level. Ravenfood posted:That's my biggest issue with it. In a small gym space it takes up a lot of route space and fall zone space when someone is trying it. It's fun and I don't mind the occasional problem like that but when there are a lot it can kind of suck. TBF, the surging popularity of indoor climbing will probably solve that for you eventually with more gyms and space. I think that as system walls become more common they solve that also. I just go climb on the kilter board now if I don't like the current set/have nothing of interest to work on in the gym.
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Sep 12, 2021 17:55
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Ravenfood posted:That's my biggest issue with it. In a small gym space it takes up a lot of route space and fall zone space when someone is trying it. It's fun and I don't mind the occasional problem like that but when there are a lot it can kind of suck. Yeah, especially running traversals, which essentially lock down three or four normal routes around them while in use. Not a huge issue if the gym is large enough, but even in small gyms the setters seem to feel the pressure to add them because they're trendy. interrodactyl posted:If you're climbing at this level, frankly, you haven't come across many outdoor problems that can apply comp climbing concepts. I don't care a lot about gym grades since they're all different. I'm terribly out of shape now after not climbing for more than a year, but if it matters to you, the highest grade I've ever done outdoors is rated at V7-8 (at Hueco Tanks). Anything above that is likely out of reach for me, at my age and lifestyle. I understand your point about keeping an open mind, but what percentage of outdoor problems would you say require parkour style problem solving? I'd hazard a guess and say it's 1% or less. Whereas I've been to gyms where nearly one in every ten routes required a running start, which is really annoying, especially for small gyms.
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Sep 12, 2021 18:05
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Heaven forbid we do things indoors that are uncommon outdoors.
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Sep 12, 2021 18:11
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Listen indoor climbing isnt real climbing unless youre using your own crash pads!
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Sep 12, 2021 19:14
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Just got kicked out of my local bouldering wall for hammering rurps behind the death-star volume. Wankers wouldn't even let me unclip my etriers.
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Sep 12, 2021 20:20
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Slow News Day posted:Listen… indoor climbing isn’t real climbing unless you’re using your own crash pads! Bouldering isn't rock climbing anyway
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Sep 12, 2021 20:38
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interrodactyl posted:Again, it's worth keeping an open mind about how "parkour" style problems can be applicable to outdoor climbing. Even if you do believe that indoor climbing should only help you train for outdoor climbing (which simply isn't the reality anymore), you'll become a better climber if you understand when these kinds of moves can be useful for training. There's a V3 with a running start in one of my local crag and there's at least two gym-style dynos in the sub V5 range too. I'm sure it's very dependant on your area, but yeah. I also do believe that some gyms just go too crazy with dynos and running start (they end up all feeling very similar to me after a while), but I enjoy it when there's one in my skill range in the gym. I hate it when the setters have a "phase" and set one in every reset so you end up having half of the new problems that are your level being dynos/running start though. I don't really care about "gym space" since I rarely go when it's crowded. It would probably annoy me slightly if I did though. Good thing is parkoury problems usually take very little time to do so you don't lock stuff up for a long time. Slabby traverse problems are the worst for that since people will spend a lot of time on the wall. Just so I can contribute to this glorious debate my opinion is that while getting better at outdoor climbing is my main goal and outdoor-ish problems indoor are my favourites, I really enjoy the comp style stuff too and probably would have never gotten into climbing if they didn't exist. My main gym has a kilter board anyway so I don't really care because I just climb that if I don't want to move around on gigantic expensive slopers and pinches. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Sep 12, 2021 |
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Sep 12, 2021 21:50
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Endjinneer posted:Just got kicked out of my local bouldering wall for hammering rurps behind the death-star volume. Wankers wouldn't even let me unclip my etriers. gently caress I thought I was the problem when they banned me for cutting the bolts on the gnar wall because it ruined the natural state of the walltopia walls. Maybe its them 🤔
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Sep 13, 2021 12:44
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Re: Coordination dynos not preparing us for the outdoors. I was struggling with the crux of a route where you need to navigate a roof and the only good hold is to the far right around the lip. My solution? A coordination dyno where i crossed my left hand over. The strong man method (that I couldn't do) was locking off crimpers and reaching up with the right.
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Sep 13, 2021 14:09
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I mean the thread title is "rock climbing" and I don't think many gyms have had rocks indoors since the early gyms in the 80s when they were bolting actual rocks to the walls to use as holds.
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Sep 13, 2021 17:52
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One of the gyms in town has a set of these wood and granite holds, so we get 1 rock climb up at a time.
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Sep 13, 2021 18:16
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gohuskies posted:I mean the thread title is "rock climbing" and I don't think many gyms have had rocks indoors since the early gyms in the 80s when they were bolting actual rocks to the walls to use as holds. This sounds pretty drat cool, not gonna lie. (Although I'm sure it's pretty terrible in reality)
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Sep 14, 2021 01:35
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Climbed some plastic. Felt like rock climbing.
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Sep 14, 2021 04:11
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Saying coordination problems don't prepare you for outside because you never do things that dynamically is like saying campus boarding doesn't prepare you because you never have to pull that hard on rock.
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Sep 14, 2021 08:55
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Slow News Day posted:My philosophy is that if it's not the type of problem one is likely to encounter outdoors, it's dumb and also a waste of good wall space. My philosophy is I like to have fun at the climbing gym
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Sep 14, 2021 23:02
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