|
Ball Tazeman posted:Real question, we are going to have to do some major work on our single (1) bathroom. Other than renting a porta potty, where do we poo poo? I have the same conundrum coming up and am probably going to buy a camping toilet and pray that I only need to use it for a week or less.
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 04:07
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 20:34 |
|
|
Ball Tazeman posted:Real question, we are going to have to do some major work on our single (1) bathroom. Other than renting a porta potty, where do we poo poo? Waffle stomp it into a floor drain.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 04:31
|
|
|
smax posted:Waffle stomp it into a floor drain. Hell yeah gently caress yeah
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 04:42
|
|
|
Ball Tazeman posted:Real question, we are going to have to do some major work on our single (1) bathroom. Other than renting a porta potty, where do we poo poo? Do you live walking distance to a corner store? That and pissing in jugs is what I did. And I'm just going to say that nobody besides you will know if you poo poo in a 5 gallon bucket in the garage. Keep a lid on it and after the bathroom is fixed dump it out into the toilet. Homeownership is a lot like camping sometimes SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Sep 16, 2021 |
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 05:23
|
|
|
BigFactory posted:I’m a demo contractor, so I’m biased when I see people do lovely demo work, but where I come from I tell people about scope changes before I do the work, not after. Particularly if the after is Oops I damaged your house, the one thing you hired me not to do. They didn’t make a proper separation. This is also a valid take, it depends on what was communicated. But that slab should have never been attached. No matter what, this is a change order. Unless you happen to work somewhere that poo poo stain work like this is typical why would you as a contractor have expected this? I'm sorry if that's the kind of place you work. And if it is you should have seen that/looked for that when you were quoting the job. We don't know what was covered when this was quoted. We don't know what their decision making process was which may be re pouring that was the best way to go rather than cutting a slab of indeterminate depth, etc. Maybe as the OP said they are just gonna take care of it. But I get it's more fun to get all pissed off about it without enough information. This just doesn't look like a big deal to me, and it looks like a "sucks to be you, your house was built by idiots" but I get how that is my own lived experience bias. Motronic fucked around with this message at 06:01 on Sep 16, 2021 |
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 05:53
|
|
|
I've never had a contractor attempt to buy 139 linear feet of window stool moulding at $10/lf when camping, though. (Not him, to be fair, his guys. Sent them for a bunch of 1x4 and 1x6, and they came back with...that. Which is neither 1x4 or 1x6, and also cost five times as much.)
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 05:53
|
|
|
Someone tell me about smart switches. New house has what appears to be a GE z-wave switch and it has a blue blinking light and won't do anything when I hit on/off on the switch, which appears to be a common sign of death after ~2 years and can maybe be fixed by replacing a capacitor. That or it poo poo the bed when the POs moved out and took their zwave hub or something, but I think it's supposed to work without a hub anyways. While I've done soldering before, I don't currently have tools for that, so I'm looking to replace the switch and maybe fix it later. Is this kind of short lifespan endemic to smart switches? I'm not looking to do any automation stuff in the immediate future, but if there is a more reliable brand/model, i wouldn't be against another zwave/zigbee/whatever switch so it's there when I get around to it There are 3 other smart switches in the house--one looks like it's probably a different model GE, and the other is a pair of leviton dimmers controlling the same lights. The dimmers are the only ones I particularly like because up always being on is just nice. Fortunately these still work.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 06:27
|
|
|
Motronic posted:This is also a valid take, it depends on what was communicated. The contractor didn’t make that separation right. It’s no different than hiring a roofer and having them flash a chimney wrong. He’s lucky he didn’t do more damage.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 10:19
|
|
|
BigFactory posted:The contractor didn’t make that separation right. It’s no different than hiring a roofer and having them flash a chimney wrong. He’s lucky he didn’t do more damage. I think both takes are right (it's my house). Neither myself or my contractor expected that some of the brick would be integral to the slab (you can see that some of the missing bricks were perpendicular to the house, sticking into the concrete). However, once he realized that my house was getting pulled out too he probably should have slowed down and reevaluated. Our contract states that they aren't liable for damage to the surrounding lawn, trees, plants, etc, but nothing about my structure. I'm not freaking out at him yet because #1 I haven't paid him a ton up front and the bulk of his fees is forthcoming and #2 he seems like a good dude/company trying to keep this on the up and up. I'll give him a chance to correct this and we'll see. Although I'm pretty sure is plan to stuff some bricks back and just pour the new slab. Most of that damage below the door threshold will be covered. Concrete hides all sins? 
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 11:47
|
|
|
NomNomNom posted:I think both takes are right (it's my house). Neither myself or my contractor expected that some of the brick would be integral to the slab (you can see that some of the missing bricks were perpendicular to the house, sticking into the concrete). I don’t even care about the brick tie backs into the slab, even though that’s weird. It’s the damage to your brick facade in that picture right there.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 12:05
|
|
|
Yeah I bet they were more bricks tied to the slab under the door and they were tied to the house in any way so they went along for the ride. Luckily I have plenty of matching bricks and the face is painted already so it shouldn't be too hard to fix.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 12:20
|
|
|
So, I'm about to be having my flooring re-done on the first floor, which means removing all the baseboard trim, which means perfect time for painting!  But here's my main issue - in my dining room, the POs painted over wallpaper. They painted over it really shittily. I also think they may've been the ones to put up the wallpaper, cause I can see it bubbling, not being flat, and just generally being there, underneath the paint. So, I feel like I have two options. 1) Paint over the painted-over-wallpaper. I feel like this is.. not a great option? There's small spots here and there that need drywall patching, sanding, etc. In the corners, at least up by the ceiling where there is "crown" wallpaper(not sure what to call it, separate strip of different patterned wallpaper where crown molding should go), you can visibly see where the wallpaper installers didn't completely crease it. There's also quite visible bubbling in a few locations, some not-so-great edges of wallpaper that are not remotely smooth, you get the gist. This I think would be the 'easiest' option but... painting over painted wallpaper just seems wrong. Am I wrong in thinking that? B) Figure out how to remove the wallpaper and start anew! Would this process be any different than removing wallpaper 'routinely'? I was thinking of renting a hand steamer thingy from Home Depot to remove the wallpaper. I'm trying to assess what my options are here, hoping I can get some advice.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 12:23
|
|
|
There's nothing routine about removing wallpaper, unfortunately. You never know what you're getting into until you try and having been painted over, possibly multiple times, isn't going to help. There's always option 3- hang 1/4" drywall over it all and start over on that
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 13:03
|
|
|
I think you might be screwed, either option sucks. Removing it is absolutely correct, but the existing paint will make it hard to steam off. If you're lucky they installed it so poorly it comes off easily. Absolutely do not paint over it if it is already bubbling.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 13:16
|
|
|
Final Blog Entry posted:There's nothing routine about removing wallpaper, unfortunately. Oh man. In the last house I started by removing wallpaper and finished by replacing the interior drywall. Wallpaper: not even once.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 13:41
|
|
|
Smash it up https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ac7JldaN3HE
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 13:46
|
|
|
Just signed off on a new roof and dormer replacement and about to sign 7 new windows for the upstairs. Here we go into the abyss of renovations. Perhaps one day we will have a fully functional master bath.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 13:54
|
|
|
gwrtheyrn posted:Someone tell me about smart switches. New house has what appears to be a GE z-wave switch and it has a blue blinking light and won't do anything when I hit on/off on the switch, which appears to be a common sign of death after ~2 years and can maybe be fixed by replacing a capacitor. That or it poo poo the bed when the POs moved out and took their zwave hub or something, but I think it's supposed to work without a hub anyways. While I've done soldering before, I don't currently have tools for that, so I'm looking to replace the switch and maybe fix it later. Is this kind of short lifespan endemic to smart switches? I'm not looking to do any automation stuff in the immediate future, but if there is a more reliable brand/model, i wouldn't be against another zwave/zigbee/whatever switch so it's there when I get around to it I had a GE Z-Wave switch just up and die on me (no blinky lights, nothing) recently, after about 2 years in service. These switches, and most consumer grade smart stuff, is just trash. They're disposable toys, like most modern electronics, and you're lucky to get more than a few years out of it. FWIW, I tore into mine to see if there were any obvious shitstains or bad components. I didn't see anything, but taking the switch apart is difficult if you want to be able to put it back together. After 5 minutes of that, I decided that my time is worth more than trying to fix a $35 switch engineered to be as low-cost as possible.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 14:08
|
|
|
 I kinda knew that I was screwed, was hoping for some kinda hail Mary option to come out the woodwork but... well, gently caress. Thanks for the advice y'all. I may just remove the wallpaper on the main dining room walls then just paint over the over-the-cabinet bullshit...
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 14:14
|
|
|
Whoever the gently caress built this fence needs to be given a good slap, no pressure treated posts were used so two of them rotted through at the ground, and what is even going on with the “concrete” situation, did they just sprinkle in some rocks from the hardscaping trying to save on mix??! 
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 14:41
|
|
|
Final Blog Entry posted:There's always option 3- hang 1/4" drywall over it all and start over on that This would be the easiest, fastest, and most effective thing to do. Removing wallpaper is possible but awful.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 18:52
|
|
|
Vim Fuego posted:This would be the easiest, fastest, and most effective thing to do. Removing wallpaper is possible but awful. Hm, well guess I'll look into it a bit more seriously! Any recommended resources on doing this?
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 19:36
|
|
|
B-Nasty posted:They're disposable toys, like most modern electronics Regular switches it is 
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 19:47
|
|
|
Johnny Truant posted:Hm, well guess I'll look into it a bit more seriously! Any recommended resources on doing this? Just keep in mind that you'll likely be removing all trim/baseboards/etc. And trim around doors/windows will need to be bumped out 1/4" and filled in (I usually use a 6x15mm or so piece of trim for this when I do it). We've done some of that here, and some tearing down all the loose poo poo, painting over with a good oil based primer, then spackling and sanding. Either works.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 19:59
|
|
|
My experience with removing wallpaper was that it just took. so. long. And once I had it all off the surface of the wall basically had to be entirely skim coated and sanded down. So if I had to do it again I wouldn't. Installing drywall isn't hard. Getting a good finish isn't difficult either. It will just take more coats and sanding (and create more dust) if you're unskilled. If you're good at it you'll be able to coat the joints in a way that looks good and doesn't require much sanding. If you're not that good then you'll put a bit too much on and leave ridges. Find your studs, put the drywall sheet on the wall. Attach the drywall sheet to the studs with 1 screw every 12". Cut your sheets to size as needed, cover the whole wall. Install corner beads if you have corners. Spread mud on the joints and cover the joints with tape embedded in the mud. Mud over the screw holes. Mud over the tape and feather the mud out to a smooth edge. Scrape down any ridges and sand. Do touch up if you have to. Caulk any gaps. Prime. Paint. I watched a bunch of Vancouver Carpenter's drywall mudding videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GIvmfBuAQIw Home renovision is also good: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQIMaR7hWtM Tools you need/could use: * drywall sheets * a drywall t-square https://www.homedepot.com/p/Johnson-48-in-Aluminum-Drywall-T-Square-JTS48/100353817 This lets you quickly make cuts at 90 degree angles. It's useful, but not something you have to have. You do need some form of straight edge. * utility knife You don't need to cut all the way through drywall sheets. Just score them and then snap them where you've scored the line. * joint tape This can be paper or fiberglass mesh. I prefer paper tape based on Vancouver Carpenter's recommendation but it's a matter of personal preference. * For corners, you can use paper joint tape or paper faced corner beads. I tend to use joint tape for inside corners and paper faced corner beads for outside corners DON'T USE OWENS CORNING PAPER BEADS. The paper bubbles and you'll waste time fixing it. I prefer Beadex. * If you're using corner beads then something to cut them. I use shears but you can also use a hacksaw * Drywall mud pan This is for holding the mud while you apply it to the wall. You can also get a drywall hawk, which is a flat tray with a handle that you can hold the mud with. You could get by without this but they are cheap. https://www.homedepot.com/p/12-in-Plastic-Drywall-Mud-Pan-36212/202059903 I'd get a metal one, but you get the idea. * Knives- I'd get a 4", 6", and a larger one- 10 or 12 You could get by with just one knife. If you only buy one I recommend a 6", but that's just my preference. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wal-Board-Tools-6-in-Hammer-End-Joint-Knife-22-076/100660218 Sanding: You need some way of sanding things flat. You can scrape major ridges off with your knives * A hand sander is absolutely necessary: https://www.homedepot.com/p/ToolPro-Drywall-Hand-Sander-with-Wood-Handle-TP04010/301328926 * A pole sander can be useful if you're doing large areas. One wall? Maybe you don't need it https://www.homedepot.com/p/ToolPro-Swivel-Head-Drywall-Pole-Sander-TP04025/301345924 * They sell special pre-cut sheets that fit into the drywall sanders. https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Pro-Pak-4-3-16-in-x-11-1-4-in-100-Grit-Medium-Drywall-Sanding-Sheet-25-Pack-99432NA/100321150 * A sanding sponge can be helpful for tight areas, but won't really give you a flat surface like the hand sander does. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Paint-Paint-Supplies-Sandpaper-Patching-Repair-Sanding-Sponges/N-5yc1vZci1c * If you're doing multiple rooms and want to buy a power tool then on motronic's recommendation I bought this thing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/132883979331?epid=26026486243&hash=item1ef0809c43:g:99sAAOSwTDpcDod7 It's fantastic because it vacuums all the dust into a bag. Mud: There's dozens of kinds of mud. You probably want to go with pre-mixed stuff that you buy in a 4.5 gallon bucket. https://www.homedepot.com/p/USG-Beadex-Brand-4-5-gal-All-Purpose-Ready-Mixed-Joint-Compound-388558/202328855 You put a layer on, then wait for it to dry overnight. Then you can scrape, sand, and/or apply another layer. Premix tends to shrink a bit as the water dries out of it. Because you're doing you're own work and can presumably afford to have the project take a few days you can just apply one layer per day until it looks good then sand it down at the end. * If you want to work more quickly you can buy "hot mud". Hot mud comes in a bag. You mix it with water then put it on the wall. It will cure chemically in roughly the indicated time- They make it in anywhere from 5 to 15 minutes up to 90 minutes to 2 hours. After it's cured you can apply another layer. But you still have to wait for all the water to dry out for painting, and usually for sanding. That still takes a full day. You probably don't want to use hot mud. It's way harder to sand than premix. It'll dry quicker than you can get it on the wall. Etc. https://www.homedepot.com/p/USG-Beadex-Brand-18-lb-Silver-Set-20-Setting-Type-Joint-Compound-385266/202329689 * A drywall mud mixer is a special drill bit for mixing water into drywall mud: https://www.homedepot.com/p/ToolPro-28-in-Drywall-Mud-Mixer-with-Pail-Saver-Tip-TP03025/301284431 This is nice to have if you're doing a lot. Otherwise a normal paint mixing bit will work ok. You can also mix more water into your mud by hand. Even if you are using pre-mix, you'll want to add some water to it as it's way thicker than you want right out of the bucket. * Screws: Assuming you have wooden studs you want coarse thread drywall screws. 1 and 1/4 inch. Edit: Given that you already have a layer of drywall on there you probably want 1 3/4 or 2 inch. You want to sink the screw in until the head is just embedded in the drywall paper, but not so far that the paper tears. You'll get the hang of it. If the paper tears then the screw isn't holding. It's no big deal you just put another one in. Final tip: With the lights out shine a flashlight on the wall at an oblique angle to reveal all the uneven areas in your otherwise perfect drywall job. I amused my wife greatly when I had her holding the flashlight and I was doing touch ups. It's great bonding time. Vim Fuego fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Sep 16, 2021 |
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 20:13
|
|
|
Right side fence posts replaced; everything nice and level. I’ll need to replace the rest of the posts on this side eventually but that can wait.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 20:48
|
|
|
If you've never mudded drywall before consider hiring the job out.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 20:52
|
|
|
Clayton Bigsby posted:Just keep in mind that you'll likely be removing all trim/baseboards/etc. And trim around doors/windows will need to be bumped out 1/4" and filled in (I usually use a 6x15mm or so piece of trim for this when I do it). Lol well this was already gonna happen cause POs royally hosed up basically all the trim, like dig this:  Luckily the only door is the patio deck door. Although I dunno if I'd want to adding more drywall above/around all my cabinetry. Fuuuuuuck there really is no good way to go about this, is there  Now I'm wondering if I should try to find a local drywall specialist...Vim Fuego posted:whole lotta helpful info Holy poo poo, thanks!
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 20:55
|
|
|
Lmao, this should be the background image for this thread The Dave posted:If you've never mudded drywall before consider hiring the job out. Oh yeah. If you can get a drywall contractor in in a reasonable amount of time it's totally worth getting a quote. They'll apply the mud way better and sand less. you can get good results, but you'll do more coats and more sanding (more dust) to get there.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 21:27
|
|
|
its a tiny temple to incompetence
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 21:48
|
|
|
Johnny Truant posted:Lol well this was already gonna happen cause POs royally hosed up basically all the trim, like dig this:  AHHHH WTF that's not how plinth blocks work!! Also what is up with the rosette down by the floor? I don't even think it's even a plinth block - seems to be a piece for the top corners of the casing. Oh poo poo and what is that tall piece on the other side? Just more baseboard that's randomly taller? Seriously what the hell.That said, I love plinth blocks and they very handily solve visual problems arising from the intersection of different trim types/sizes. They seem to have somewhat fallen out of favor - I feel like I see door/cased opening trim go straight to the floor and directly abut the baseboard more often than not these days. Anyhow, the plinth blocks should be about as wide as the door trim and as tall or slightly taller than the baseboard. Here's one of the doorways in my house:  (To note, an issue here is that the quarter round (which was added some time after the house was built, along with the hardwood), is not properly tapered so it awkwardly cuts off instead of easing in to look like it's supposed to fit.) And here's one on a cased opening:  Notice the lack of baseboard on the inside of the opening. The only time you'd want baseboard on the inside of an opening is in the case of an uncased opening.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 21:51
|
|
|
I decided when I bought my house to just never look too closely at the trim, and I've retained a lot of sanity due to that decision.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 21:54
|
|
|
look at how it fit under on the left but not on the right. Instead of cutting the trim that was on there, or chiseling the piece they were adding, they just jammed it in then painted it. hahaha
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 22:07
|
|
|
Vim Fuego posted:they just jammed it in then painted it. I think you have just captured my POs mantra perfectly with this statement. For example - I just took down the indoor noise-making apparatus for my doorbell. Well, behind it was a hole in the wall filled with way too many wires for a doorbell. There were four holes surrounding the wiring 'hole', two without drywall anchors and two with. That's par for the course in my house. But they had pushed all the wiring of the doorbell back into the hole, then just... painted everything. Drywall anchors, holes, large hole, the loving WIRES. And then what did they do? Just put the doorbell aparatus back up on the wall to hide the painted wiring, still in an open hole in the drywall Queen Victorian posted:I don't even think it's even a plinth block - seems to be a piece for the top corners of the casing. Oh poo poo and what is that tall piece on the other side? Just more baseboard that's randomly taller? Seriously what the hell. Ding ding ding, that isn't a plinth block, it's just one of the circular accents that're supposed to be placed in the upper corners of doors! And the other tall piece is just a weird corner.. accent? thing that they put in random locations. No, not every doorway corner has one, in case you were wondering.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 22:22
|
|
Vim Fuego posted:My experience with removing wallpaper was that it just took. so. long. And once I had it all off the surface of the wall basically had to be entirely skim coated and sanded down. So if I had to do it again I wouldn't. This is worth a link to the thread OP or something. Ton of great info here imo.
|
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 22:31
|
|
|
NomNomNom posted:Yeah I bet they were more bricks tied to the slab under the door and they were tied to the house in any way so they went along for the ride. Luckily I have plenty of matching bricks and the face is painted already so it shouldn't be too hard to fix. Yep, it's just one of those things. Ambiguous contract and you work out what you can work out. The good news is that it looks like you (they) can just mix up some mortar and shove some bricks in there, it's just a facade. Johnny Truant posted:
I had a friend that used a couple Paper Tigers https://www.homedepot.com/p/Zinsser-Single-Head-PaperTiger-Scoring-Tool-2966/202745319 for painted-over wallpaper removal. It's ugly, but possible. And from the recent reviews, it looks like the build quality may be poo poo now, so 
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 22:35
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
|
Grading work is looking great, gravel just got delivered but now we're supposed to have two days of storms. Patio pour should be Monday if weather doesn't delay things more.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 22:45
|
|
|
Looks like I'm being ghosted by my sixth straight electrician. Sigh.
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 22:59
|
|
|
have you tried some queer electricians. sorry
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 23:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 27, 2024 20:34 |
|
|
papa horny michael posted:have you tried some queer electricians. sorry LOL
|
|
#
?
Sep 16, 2021 23:02
|
|