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There's an option called vat clean on my saturn that basically cures the entire vat bottom and you can peel it off. I dunno if elegoo has added it to the other machines though.
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Sep 22, 2021 15:24
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Zorro KingOfEngland posted:Put some support material in a corner of the vat, then manually expose for 20-30 seconds. Pull up on the support material, and you'll peel away a nice cured layer of resin which usually pulls up any stray cured resin stuck to the FEP. This is genius, thanks!
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Sep 22, 2021 16:05
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I can't find a better place to ask this question so I'm going to ask it here. Apologies. Does anyone have recommendations for a plotter? I've been looking at the AxiDraw V3. I want a nice one that works well that I don't have to gently caress with. I don't mind wasting $500 or so for that privilege. But I'm curious if there are better options out there than the AxiDraw. Thanks in advance!
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Sep 22, 2021 20:22
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Hi sorry for the noob question but this is for a friend who just got a 3d printer Say you got an STL file, it’s great, a million little triangles, but you want it to have a little tube/cylinder poking out of it, so it connects to another unrelated model (kind of a hack, but a cool idea) I can load the STL in my 3d app, and make the cylinder and position it where it’s needed, but does the cylinder need to be part of the piece? Does the topology need to connect, or will it print fine if the cylinder is just slapped in there intersecting the other model
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Sep 22, 2021 22:24
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Just grabbed a prusa mk3s+, great deal till the end of the month. Already comes with a roll of filament but they're throwing in an extra 4!
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Sep 22, 2021 22:29
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Comfy Fleece Sweater posted:Hi sorry for the noob question but this is for a friend who just got a 3d printer Slicers do a pretty good job of figuring out how to interpret the model as manifold, even if the model itself is not. If the slicer can't figure it out, most of them will let you run it through netfabb which is black magic as far as I know. So, it will probably just work.
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Sep 22, 2021 22:29
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Zorro KingOfEngland posted:Slicers do a pretty good job of figuring out how to interpret the model as manifold, even if the model itself is not. If the slicer can't figure it out, most of them will let you run it through netfabb which is black magic as far as I know. Sweet, thanks for the info 
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Sep 22, 2021 22:32
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The axidraw is a quality piece of hardware. There are knockoffs that are cheaper (don't know how the software angle works for them though), but I can tell you the axidraw is a rock solid machine.
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Sep 22, 2021 22:32
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The Eyes Have It posted:The axidraw is a quality piece of hardware. There are knockoffs that are cheaper (don't know how the software angle works for them though), but I can tell you the axidraw is a rock solid machine. That's great to hear! Thanks
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Sep 22, 2021 23:00
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Comfy Fleece Sweater posted:Hi sorry for the noob question but this is for a friend who just got a 3d printer Personally I advise you load all these elements/models into 3d builder, position them where you want them use the combine function then load that into your slicer. I've overlapped models in the cura slicer them watched it try to print both parts of the overlap, but that was an older version and they might have fixed that but I wouldn't chance it when 3d builder does what it does so well.
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Sep 22, 2021 23:06
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Or combine your models in your favorite 3d program, then export to .stl and import into 3d Builder and let it repair the file, then re-save it. I do tons of 3d kitbashing and this has worked 100% of the time for me.
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Sep 22, 2021 23:33
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Hadlock posted:did you 3d print a star trek firecracker Just a little filament for touchless painting  I can mount stuff there or fill it later. Or ignore it, in the cases of these junk recovery prints
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Sep 23, 2021 00:19
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Comfy Fleece Sweater posted:Hi sorry for the noob question but this is for a friend who just got a 3d printer Prusaslicer allows you to generate cubes and cylinders on the build mat, then use those simple objects to "weld" two or more STL files together. It's really really crude but might solve whatever hacky problem you're trying to If you want alignment pins, I've been documenting my saga over in the CAD thread. Although I guess tools like "mesh mixer" offer this as well. I really don't like mesh mixer's UI though
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Sep 23, 2021 00:56
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Got my Prusa Mini and immediately ate the included gummy bears, then saw them listed in the manual.  e: I may have to give setting this up another shot tomorrow. I'm having trouble parsing the directions for some reason. I sincerely hope I'm not too stupid to assemble this thing and I feel 100% justified in not buying the kit version. e2: A video by Joseph Prusa actually walking through the steps cleared it up. I think I was getting hung up on minor revision problems in the manual. Also I can't read directions. 
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Sep 23, 2021 02:16
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Thanks for the bed suggestions, the new one came in and no more adhesion issues Creality glass beds are a gently caress 410,757,864,530 dead prints
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Sep 23, 2021 15:41
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GonadTheBallbarian posted:Thanks for the bed suggestions, the new one came in and no more adhesion issues Which one did you wind up going with? Decide to keep it for now, or is it still going to the office? I saw two Ender 3 fires on Reddit over the past few days, decided to finally get the ferrules and knock that out. I managed to snag one of the $99 Ender 3 Pros a month ago too; between mine, my dad's, and those of friends, I've got six Creality printers in need of crimping. Hope yours goes smoothly.
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Sep 23, 2021 16:06
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becoming posted:Which one did you wind up going with? Decide to keep it for now, or is it still going to the office? I went with the one linked from AliExpress, the first print was perfect! This is going to the office once I can either get the money or justification to make a Voron. I've realized that there's little reason for a prusa when the cost is the same so gently caress it I like building poo poo. For the ender, I had to remove a lot of hot glue off of terminations and I just went HAM on the ferrules despite only the bed and PSU ends really needing it. If anyone is thinking about getting an Ender 3v2, get a crimp and ferrule kit (and wire strippers if you don't have those already) BEFORE assembly so you can do this before your printer gets any use. GonadTheBallbarian fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Sep 23, 2021 |
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Sep 23, 2021 16:12
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I bought a Saturn as my first foray into printing and it’s been so simple to use, no full on failures yet and consistently being surprised at the amount of detail you can get. I also found an Aussie company making resin, has anyone here heard of or used monocure3d resins before?
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Sep 24, 2021 01:08
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SquirrelGrip posted:I also found an Aussie company making resin, has anyone here heard of or used monocure3d resins before? The worst review of them I've seen was "isn't too bad", and generally the comments I've seen about them have been pretty positive.
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Sep 24, 2021 02:09
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SquirrelGrip posted:I bought a Saturn as my first foray into printing and it’s been so simple to use, no full on failures yet and consistently being surprised at the amount of detail you can get. I'm using monocure flex as a tenacious equivalent mix in and it seems to be doing the trick at 10%
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Sep 24, 2021 04:07
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Got the Mini assembled and went through calibration. But I think I goofed...  The print came unstuck from the print bed. I'm thinking I just need to dial it in a little more on the nozzle height. I saw a warning not to let the nozzle contact the hotplate so I was dialing it in incrementally and might have thought it was good too soon. Could that be it, or is it likely to be something like needing to wipe down the print surface? I thought the print quality looked pretty good as it got above the starting layer. It probably would have turned out pretty good if it had stayed put.
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Sep 24, 2021 05:42
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NofrikinfuN posted:Got the Mini assembled and went through calibration. Congrats on your printer. One note though -- in this photo it looks like your filament roll is feeding from the top of the roll down into the filament sensor tube, which has to bend upwards to accommodate. It should be the other way around, feeding from the bottom of the roll, up into the filament sensor tube from below. On that printer, feeding from the top puts extra bend in the filament tube's path that doesn't need to be there, so it's best practice to feed from the bottom to prevent that if possible. NofrikinfuN posted:might have thought it was good too soon. Could that be it, or is it likely to be something like needing to wipe down the print surface? Could be either. If you're dialing in the Z height for the first layer calibration you won't bump the dial a little and WHOOPS INTO THE BUILD SURFACE by surprise. You'll visually get too close before that happens, by which I mean the filament extrusion will thin down an obvious amount. You might have stopped a little too high.
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Sep 24, 2021 05:51
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What does the back look like.
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Sep 24, 2021 05:57
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SquirrelGrip posted:I also found an Aussie company making resin, has anyone here heard of or used monocure3d resins before? They're my go to for resin, and Charlie will bend over backwards to help if you're having weird problems. And they include a Timtam in the shipping box, so they're easily worlds ahead of everyone else. snail fucked around with this message at 09:12 on Sep 24, 2021 |
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Sep 24, 2021 06:15
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All right cheers for the feedback, I’m not interested in loving around trying too many out so I’ll probably just stick with them. There’s a reseller near my office who has a sample of crystal clear and the cmyk dye kit I grabbed to make some heinous colours, also got some gunmetal grey rapid and resinaway. No free timtam though.
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Sep 24, 2021 06:41
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SquirrelGrip posted:There’s a reseller near my office who has a sample of crystal clear and the cmyk dye kit I grabbed to make some heinous colours, also got some gunmetal grey rapid and resinaway. No free timtam though. I just order online, it arrives within 2 days normally. And I get a Timtam.
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Sep 24, 2021 09:13
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I need to cast a lead ballast for my 3d printed project In the olden days they'd just cast the lead directly into my fiberglass mould and destroy the mould to figure out what size to make the ballast I'm kind of wondering if I can print a positive mould/plug from PLA with 1% infill, then do a plaster cast, and then pour the liquid lead right into the PLA. Presumably the PLA infill will melt/burn away and float to the top, and most of the perimeter exterior will also? It's 60 lbs of lead vs 6 ounces of PLA, I'm thinking the lead will make quick work of the PLA. I'm not super concerned about the finish quality of the lead due to surface contamination by the pla Option B is do a two part plaster mould but that's a lot more work and I don't need to reuse the plug Option C I guess is sand cast but that requires a lot more stuff than I have access to right now Final result would be to bolt the ballast to the object. Option A and B would make it really easy to drill holes and place steel bolts ahead of the casting process There's actually investment casting wax filament for $50/spool, but I don't have an oven big enough to heat up the mould to do that TL;DR what happens when you pour molten lead over pla
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Sep 24, 2021 10:28
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Hadlock posted:I need to cast a lead ballast for my 3d printed project Yes. Google "Lost PLA Casting" and you'll find countless projects where people have done your first option..
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Sep 24, 2021 10:33
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Why not just create a void and fill it with glue and lead shot or something?
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Sep 24, 2021 11:57
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Liquid lead is >327C which should be enough to melt the PLA out of the way when you pour it in. However, I would expect to see weird voids and vapor pockets trying to do it that way. Lost PLA is probably the way to go with this, depending on your ability to heat over 250C for a long period of time.
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Sep 24, 2021 12:44
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withak posted:What does the back look like. Ah, I forgot I was gonna take a pic of the back. Here you go:  I'm guessing I need to dial the nozzle down until this side is roughly as smooth as the show surface or maybe even a little more? On the calibration, is the filled square at the end supposed to print as one solid block with no gaps between the lines?
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Sep 24, 2021 13:07
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I setup my Prusa Mini 2 weeks ago and had to calibrate to around -1.3 on the Z - Around this value is very common according to the thread I read.
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Sep 24, 2021 13:41
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I'm printing a cookie cutter. The edge is flat and I'd like to bevel it to 45 degrees to help it cut a little cleaner, anyone have a link to a guide on how to do that in Blender or 3D Builder? Let's pretend I have no idea what I'm doing.
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Sep 24, 2021 13:42
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NofrikinfuN posted:Ah, I forgot I was gonna take a pic of the back. Here you go: Nozzle is too high, yeah; on the smooth sheet like you're using, the back of that Prusa logo should be almost perfectly smooth. The square at the end should be one solid block, smooth on the back side, pretty dang smooth on the top, and it should resist pulling apart (I can't pull mine apart but maybe you are Hulk-strong).
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Sep 24, 2021 13:47
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Nozzle way too high - when I built my printer I did the same thing. Go way down until the nozzle is just barely above the print bed. Can be hard to tell but if you went too far your extruded filament will look like the nozzle dragged through it. Sort of U shaped. Think prusa has some pictures of this in their manual. Shouldn't be any gaps in the block at the end. Will still see striations though.
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Sep 24, 2021 13:52
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Baconroll posted:I setup my Prusa Mini 2 weeks ago and had to calibrate to around -1.3 on the Z - Around this value is very common according to the thread I read. I got to a little over -1 and thought I might be flirting with disaster, but this makes me feel a bit more at ease to press down a bit more. Is there an increment I should be using, or just jazz until there's a visible difference? Thanks for the help all.
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Sep 24, 2021 14:01
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Print a 3x3" first layer calibration file and adjust it as it prints, should be fairly easy to dial in.
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Sep 24, 2021 14:10
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Wibla posted:Print a 3x3" first layer calibration file and adjust it as it prints, should be fairly easy to dial in. I was looking for this in the calibration menus and didn't see it. I will take another look tonight, the calibration test with the lines and the square at the end is pretty time consuming and the square at the end is really the part I need to observe.
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Sep 24, 2021 15:01
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NofrikinfuN posted:I was looking for this in the calibration menus and didn't see it. I will take another look tonight, the calibration test with the lines and the square at the end is pretty time consuming and the square at the end is really the part I need to observe. That's pretty much the calibration to use, though. It's worth doing because the lines leading up to that square allow you to make adjustments until it gets to that part (with the idea being you only need to run that once). Use a bright-colored filament to make it easier to see how the traces before the ending square are going. EDIT: I'm at -1.62 using the satin steel sheet, and -1.45 using the smooth PEI steel sheet. Everybody's printer is going to be slightly different but I'd jump down to -1.500 and run that calibration and adjust while it runs the initial traces if -1.500 isn't dead-on what yours needs to be. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Sep 24, 2021 |
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Sep 24, 2021 15:19
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I like to use this for z calibration, but you need to have a micrometer to get it right: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/first-layer-calibration-test (corrected link) If you don't use this model, then I think the key thing in the default z-height calibration run that the machine prints is to make sure the solid square at the end peels off as a solid sheet. If the individual threads pull apart easily while you are handling it then you need to lower your z. The initial zigzag pattern is useful because the bead should be noticeably squashed down between the nozzle and the plate. If the bead looks/feels mostly round then you are too high. Crank down the z until that single bead looks visibly squashed and you should be pretty close. The way they set it up at the factor your z should end up somewhere around -1.5 or lower. If you have done anything with the sensor height then it could be different. Like someone else said, the back of that Prusa logo test model should be smooth with little to no visible lines. withak fucked around with this message at 18:03 on Sep 24, 2021 |
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Sep 24, 2021 17:53
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