Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

mutata posted:

Yeah, you're right. What were we thinking.

I'm only sorry I was too late to be of any help :(

His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 09:43 on Sep 28, 2021

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


NomNomNom posted:

Ortho Home defense is widely available and fairly benign to people and pets (somebody check me on that). Deals with my spider crickets.

Yup a 'refil bottle' and a harbor freight pump sprayer is my recommendation. I spray the perimeter of the house once it twice a year at ground around windows windows and eves and it works pretty well.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Fallom posted:

Clover loves dog piss so I love Clover. Is there fertilizer made for it?

Yes, dog piss.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Hell yeah I've got gallons of dog piss

Sash!
Mar 16, 2001


Our PO willingly planted a shitload of morning glories, so I'm looking forward to my lifelong war against it.

MrYenko
Jun 18, 2012

#2 isn't ALWAYS bad...

cruft posted:

Hey, since we're talking about toxic chemicals, how do you get rid of Siberian Elm? Undiluted round-up on a just-cut trunk has been insufficient for me.

Is there anyplace online I can mail order napalm?

Garlon. :hb:

Realtalk, the chemical you use is less important than application. You need to get deep into the heartwood, preferably at least 50% of the circumference of the tree trunk. Garlon applied like that will kill it dead as gently caress, no exceptions. Garlon is tough to find, though; I think it’s permit-only in my state, as an example.

Queen Victorian
Feb 21, 2018

Sash! posted:

Our PO willingly planted a shitload of morning glories, so I'm looking forward to my lifelong war against it.

We've got some morning glory on the fence (I think it originated in the neighbor's yard), but our main thing is the Siberian squill. First spring we were in our house, it was in the flowerbed and part of the lawn. Third and most recent spring, it covered the entire backyard. I can't be too mad at it because it's a gorgeous carpet of little blue flowers when everything else is still dormant, and then it goes away completely by the time the new grass growth starts.

I really need to start mowing it before it seeds out and then physically dig up the bulbs where I don't want them, but ugh I don't wanna and also they're so pretty.

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

tater_salad posted:

Yup a 'refil bottle' and a harbor freight pump sprayer is my recommendation. I spray the perimeter of the house once it twice a year at ground around windows windows and eves and it works pretty well.

If you're going that route, just buy concentrated bifenthrin (the main active ingredient in Ortho HD) and mix it up yourself. Way, way cheaper, since you're mostly buying a jug of water and 0.5% active ingredient in the pre-mixed.

Obviously, read all instructions carefully. https://www.domyown.com/ has tons of info and recommended products.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


Sash! posted:

Our PO willingly planted a shitload of morning glories, so I'm looking forward to my lifelong war against it.

Sorry not sorry

BadSamaritan
May 2, 2008

crumb by crumb in this big black forest


peanut posted:

Sorry not sorry

thank you my toddler picks a few every day on our walk and everyone is happy about it

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


My yard is probably more weeds than grass but I do not mind the wild violets at all.


loquacius
Oct 21, 2008

So, I've been living in my current house for 4 or 5 months, and a really nice shower at someone else's house made me realize that our water pressure is kind of weak. The shower and all of our faucets are kind of anemic, and my wife and I agreed that getting some more pressure out of all of them would be a project worth pursuing. So I picked up a water pressure gauge, and did a reading today, and the gauge read a steady 60 PSI. That's not only not low, that's ideal. In other words, we do not in fact have low water pressure. Something else is going on.

I read in a Popular Mechanics article on this subject that the issue could also be poor water flow, but what the article did not mention was what I could possibly do about that.

So, I guess my question is, is it that common of a thing for people to experience all the symptoms of poor water pressure without actually HAVING poor water pressure, and what should I do about it? Is water flow just a design issue with the plumbing in my house? If so, and if that is the problem, is there anything to be done about it without like tearing out all our pipes or whatever?

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

loquacius posted:

So, I've been living in my current house for 4 or 5 months, and a really nice shower at someone else's house made me realize that our water pressure is kind of weak. The shower and all of our faucets are kind of anemic, and my wife and I agreed that getting some more pressure out of all of them would be a project worth pursuing. So I picked up a water pressure gauge, and did a reading today, and the gauge read a steady 60 PSI. That's not only not low, that's ideal. In other words, we do not in fact have low water pressure. Something else is going on.

I read in a Popular Mechanics article on this subject that the issue could also be poor water flow, but what the article did not mention was what I could possibly do about that.

So, I guess my question is, is it that common of a thing for people to experience all the symptoms of poor water pressure without actually HAVING poor water pressure, and what should I do about it? Is water flow just a design issue with the plumbing in my house? If so, and if that is the problem, is there anything to be done about it without like tearing out all our pipes or whatever?

How old is the house?

Most of us in suburbia have great water pressure and low flow because of either a) the low flow fixtures, or b) undersized plumbing lines inside the house. I know I have my outdoor spigots fed by 1/4" PVC... that doesn't do anyone any good.

No real solution other than replumbing.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out

loquacius posted:

So, I've been living in my current house for 4 or 5 months, and a really nice shower at someone else's house made me realize that our water pressure is kind of weak. The shower and all of our faucets are kind of anemic, and my wife and I agreed that getting some more pressure out of all of them would be a project worth pursuing. So I picked up a water pressure gauge, and did a reading today, and the gauge read a steady 60 PSI. That's not only not low, that's ideal. In other words, we do not in fact have low water pressure. Something else is going on.

I read in a Popular Mechanics article on this subject that the issue could also be poor water flow, but what the article did not mention was what I could possibly do about that.

So, I guess my question is, is it that common of a thing for people to experience all the symptoms of poor water pressure without actually HAVING poor water pressure, and what should I do about it? Is water flow just a design issue with the plumbing in my house? If so, and if that is the problem, is there anything to be done about it without like tearing out all our pipes or whatever?

Take a shower head off the stub, hold a bucket up and run the water for a set amount of time. Measure volume and report back.

Is your house newish\have PEX piping? 1/2" PEX is narrower inside than 1/2" copper and will have a lower flow rate.

Some Guy From NY
Dec 11, 2007

loquacius posted:

So, I've been living in my current house for 4 or 5 months, and a really nice shower at someone else's house made me realize that our water pressure is kind of weak. The shower and all of our faucets are kind of anemic, and my wife and I agreed that getting some more pressure out of all of them would be a project worth pursuing. So I picked up a water pressure gauge, and did a reading today, and the gauge read a steady 60 PSI. That's not only not low, that's ideal. In other words, we do not in fact have low water pressure. Something else is going on.

I read in a Popular Mechanics article on this subject that the issue could also be poor water flow, but what the article did not mention was what I could possibly do about that.

So, I guess my question is, is it that common of a thing for people to experience all the symptoms of poor water pressure without actually HAVING poor water pressure, and what should I do about it? Is water flow just a design issue with the plumbing in my house? If so, and if that is the problem, is there anything to be done about it without like tearing out all our pipes or whatever?

Try changing the shower heads to high flow ones and see if your faucet aerator can be changed, again replace with a high flow design. They are both easily found on amazon.

I bought a cheap 20 dollar multi spray shower head from amazon and it greatly increased the water pressure. I also had to immediately replace the aerators on 2 brand new kohler faucets to get any type of pressure out of them.

These items are cheap enough to buy, and amazon basically takes anything back if it turns out they are not the problem.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Sirotan posted:

My yard is probably more weeds than grass but I do not mind the wild violets at all.




That's beautiful.

If you decide you want them there, they are no longer weeds. Tell people it's a bee refuge if you're worried about it.

Rythe
Jan 21, 2011

Anybody put up shelving on a slanted wall that follows the roofing line?

Looking at buying a house in my area and most the house are two story's with spare bedrooms and bonus rooms on the second floor where the walls follow the roof line, which I absolutely love from a ascetic stand poiint. I don't want to waste that space for all my Lego and collectible displays that would normality go on a flat wall. Looks like the walls start flat for a few feet and then start to follow the roof line.

I haven't come up with much from Google searches on pre-made products, mostly designing customer shelving brackets.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out

Sirotan posted:

My yard is probably more weeds than grass but I do not mind the wild violets at all.




This is awesome and definitely not what comes to my mind when I think of weeds.

My lawn is infested with creeping charlie which has the unfortunate habit of crowding out the grass and then itself dying. Leaves behind huge bare spots that turn to mud. 2,4D seems to effectively kill it but I'd like to find some way to prevent it in the first place, or at least give my grass a better leg up.

extravadanza
Oct 19, 2007

Rythe posted:

Anybody put up shelving on a slanted wall that follows the roofing line?

Looking at buying a house in my area and most the house are two story's with spare bedrooms and bonus rooms on the second floor where the walls follow the roof line, which I absolutely love from a ascetic stand poiint. I don't want to waste that space for all my Lego and collectible displays that would normality go on a flat wall. Looks like the walls start flat for a few feet and then start to follow the roof line.

I haven't come up with much from Google searches on pre-made products, mostly designing customer shelving brackets.

Are you looking to get a shelving unit shaped in a triangle with the hypotenuse following the roofline? That's probably going to need to be custom because roof line slant angles can vary. You could just get a few floating shelves and throw them up. I have these under some of my windows holding plants and pictures and I like them a lot, very sturdy. https://www.bludot.com/welf-small-wall-shelf.html They have bigger version too.

Blowjob Overtime
Apr 6, 2008

Steeeeriiiiiiiiike twooooooo!

cruft posted:

That's beautiful.

If you decide you want them there, they are no longer weeds. Tell people it's a bee refuge if you're worried about it.

That's our excuse for doing absolutely nothing about dandelions in the spring.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
Gah I wish my yard "weeds" were just dandelions and violets, I've got these pretty gnarly things that grow a couple of feet high and tower over all the grass.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

FISHMANPET posted:

Gah I wish my yard "weeds" were just dandelions and violets, I've got these pretty gnarly things that grow a couple of feet high and tower over all the grass.

Those are trees

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
Oh I've got volunteer trees as well, but these are... something different.

Manager Hoyden
Mar 5, 2020

I just pressure washed my ugly deck and I have a couple of questions

1. A part of the deck that is in permanent shade still has some... stuff on it. The grime. It doesnt come up for some reason - I even got too close with the pressure washer and it took up wood before it took off the stank. How do I get this stuff off?

2. After pressure washing, what do I do next? Do I wash it with something special? The wood looks nice so I don't want to stain it, but I do want to protect it.

loquacius
Oct 21, 2008

Thanks for the flow advice, guys :tipshat: Will get some measurements done on that and report back

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
In the vein of the thread title, I had my attic insulated yesterday, but before that, I had to get all the old nasty (chewed up and peed on by squirrels) batt insulation. I literally couldn't pay the insulation company to do it (at least not in any reasonable time frame) so I spent the weekend bagging and hauling insulation out of the attic.

As a reward for that, I finished up this project:


I built the table to hold a tool chest to store my tools, plus storing other tools and battery chargers on it. But there was no power there. And I realized standing there that the primary light in that spot was behind you, so you'd be casting a shadow into the toolbox if you looked for tools. I also found some pegboard organizers that I somehow inherited along the way, so I decided to kill two birds with one stone, install outlets on the wall as well as a switched light fixture. And the table is firmly anchored to the wall so it can't tip over. Went from an open wall with studs 4 foot on center (had to install a new stud in the middle to support the pegboard) to all of this. Only thing left is the light - turns out the lamp base I got is defective and doesn't have a ground terminal, so I need to swap it out. The one just hanging there is installed just to ensure the switch works (it does!), but I need to swap it out with one that has a grounded plug on it. I also picked up a 3000 lumen stoplight that I might put in instead of a bulb (why I need the grounded outlet in the lamp base) but I must say, I'm pretty proud of it all.

Now I'm eagerly awaiting my Harbor Freight tool chest to come in so I can start organizing all my loose small tools. And figuring out what I actually want to put up on the pegboard.

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

Manager Hoyden posted:

I just pressure washed my ugly deck and I have a couple of questions

1. A part of the deck that is in permanent shade still has some... stuff on it. The grime. It doesnt come up for some reason - I even got too close with the pressure washer and it took up wood before it took off the stank. How do I get this stuff off?

2. After pressure washing, what do I do next? Do I wash it with something special? The wood looks nice so I don't want to stain it, but I do want to protect it.

They make deck wash cleaner, which is basically a weak acid solution. That should help get some of the mildew gunk off. Just be sure to read labels and ensure it's compatible with your deck's wood.

If you like the look of the wood, they make clear water-proofers. Thompson's WaterSeal is the big name brand, but you can find it under many labels. Note: these clear water-proofers don't last nearly as long as other semi-transparent or opaque stains. You need to reapply usually every 2 years or so.

Manager Hoyden
Mar 5, 2020

B-Nasty posted:

They make deck wash cleaner, which is basically a weak acid solution. That should help get some of the mildew gunk off. Just be sure to read labels and ensure it's compatible with your deck's wood.

If you like the look of the wood, they make clear water-proofers. Thompson's WaterSeal is the big name brand, but you can find it under many labels. Note: these clear water-proofers don't last nearly as long as other semi-transparent or opaque stains. You need to reapply usually every 2 years or so.

Thanks, I guess I'll hit it with this 30 Seconds stuff and see what happens.

With the Thompson's (or equivalent), do I need to apply it with a roller or can I spray it with something like a pump sprayer?

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

FISHMANPET posted:

Oh I've got volunteer trees as well, but these are... something different.

With all the rain this year I got some 9+ foot tall wild lettuce (Lactuca) showing up behind my fence this year. I assume they'd be in the lawn, too, if it didn't get mowed.

z0331
Oct 2, 2003

Holtby thy name
We redid our bathroom less than a year ago and used crackle tile in the shower. The tile guy supposedly sealed it, though my partner was paranoid and so we did it again ourselves. Well I guess neither of us did a great job since this started happening a few weeks ago.



I’m assuming that this is water getting into the cracks and not like mold or something. If so, would pointing a fan at it and leaving it for a few days do anything? It doesn’t seem to reduce at all when left overnight but maybe that’s just not enough time.

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

Manager Hoyden posted:

With the Thompson's (or equivalent), do I need to apply it with a roller or can I spray it with something like a pump sprayer?

You can use a sprayer or brush/roller. You have to watch if you use a sprayer that you don't overapply and leave puddles. Surface must be clean and dry, and there are minimum nighttime temps for it to dry properly. In my area, it's too late in the season now :(

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

Tristesse posted:

OMG for real. Our POs made extremely questionable decisions at our house, and the one I hate the most currently is what they did to the yard. They covered the entire side yard and half of the backyard with weed block fabric and then a few inches of river rocks/ gravel to make some fakeo lovely looking beach. No we're not near water. It is the wooooooooorst. As soon as we moved in the whole gravel part broke out in weeds as well so we've been fighting those back since.

Anyways, our eventual plan is to get rid of that poo poo but arguing about the exact method for how to do so has been a pastime at my house. My husband thinks we can just bury all the rocks under some soil and pop sod on top and call it day. I say it's going to be a PITA and we should rip it out and dig that poo poo up instead of being a total PO about it and causing issues for us since we plan to stay a while. A facebook ad or two for free river rocks come and get 'em might help, but either way I think he's foolish for thinking it can just be covered up. The backyard does need to be regraded as well, as the areas without rocks are sunken down and uneven as hell. Since my husband won't be willing to do the work himself we're going to hire someone and see what they think about it, but if I have any say in the matter weed block fabric will not exist on our property any more.

What you need is a rock vacuum: https://christianson.com/brands/rockvac/

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

quote:

The RockVac comes equipped with a 24 Hp Honda engine but can be upgraded to a diesel or an electric motor if requested.
:stare:

Now that's a vacuum

ROJO
Jan 14, 2006

Oven Wrangler

FISHMANPET posted:

In the vein of the thread title, I had my attic insulated yesterday, but before that, I had to get all the old nasty (chewed up and peed on by squirrels) batt insulation. I literally couldn't pay the insulation company to do it (at least not in any reasonable time frame) so I spent the weekend bagging and hauling insulation out of the attic.

Hey rodent-infested-insulation removal buddy :hfive:



Worst day of our lives on the house up to that point 10 years ago - and still holds the title. There have been longer days, more exhausting days, and far more complicated days - but that has still been the most unpleasant. Makes reinsulating seem like a breeze though!

The Wonder Weapon
Dec 16, 2006



I appreciate everyone's feedback. The area that I'll be planting trees in is now very bumpy soil covered in various twigs, dead leaves, etc. Here's what I'm thinking about. (I live in Buffalo, for what it's worth.)

1. Rake out all the debris from the area
2. Wait until spring
3. Cover with landscaping fabric
4. Put a fresh layer of topsoil over the area to smooth/level
5. Plant the trees
6. Apply mulch down the entire length of trees (~100ft)

My thinking here is that the landscape fabric will help keep all the buried weeds and crap from coming up.

I could skip the landscaping fabric, but them I'm just doing what I did in the first place, which ended up covered with weeds. And while I don't doubt that refreshing the mulch once or twice a year might be helpful, my second kid is due in January, and I know I'm going to be bad about getting back there to weed/maintain it regularly.

I'm very open to changing this plan up if there's a better bet.

iv46vi
Apr 2, 2010

The Wonder Weapon posted:

I appreciate everyone's feedback. The area that I'll be planting trees in is now very bumpy soil covered in various twigs, dead leaves, etc. Here's what I'm thinking about. (I live in Buffalo, for what it's worth.)

1. Rake out all the debris from the area
2. Wait until spring
3. Cover with landscaping fabric
4. Put a fresh layer of topsoil over the area to smooth/level
5. Plant the trees
6. Apply mulch down the entire length of trees (~100ft)

My thinking here is that the landscape fabric will help keep all the buried weeds and crap from coming up.

I could skip the landscaping fabric, but them I'm just doing what I did in the first place, which ended up covered with weeds. And while I don't doubt that refreshing the mulch once or twice a year might be helpful, my second kid is due in January, and I know I'm going to be bad about getting back there to weed/maintain it regularly.

I'm very open to changing this plan up if there's a better bet.

Some people use cardboard boxes instead of fabric but there are some concerns:

https://www.oregonlive.com/hg/2020/03/ask-an-expert-layer-of-cardboard-can-be-used-as-weed-barrier-with-caveats.html

If you got Amazon boxes and diaper boxes it might be easier to do now after raking it flat.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


The Wonder Weapon posted:

I appreciate everyone's feedback. The area that I'll be planting trees in is now very bumpy soil covered in various twigs, dead leaves, etc. Here's what I'm thinking about. (I live in Buffalo, for what it's worth.)

1. Rake out all the debris from the area
2. Wait until spring
3. Cover with landscaping fabric
4. Put a fresh layer of topsoil over the area to smooth/level
5. Plant the trees
6. Apply mulch down the entire length of trees (~100ft)

My thinking here is that the landscape fabric will help keep all the buried weeds and crap from coming up.
Not really. Weed seeds are going to sprout because they'll piggyback along with the topsoil. All you're doing is putting a ceiling over the current set of weed seeds and bringing a new set in to replace them. If there are any healthy established weed roots (thistle, say, or any of a number of shrubs), they''ll come back in the spring and tent the landscape fabric. I suspect some of the bumps you're seeing may be old tree roots, or possibly rocks in contractor-quality fill dirt.

If you don't want plants there at all (other than the trees), then till thoroughly (rent a tiller) to get rid of the existing weed roots, and go with landscape fabric and river rocks, or landscape fabric and mulch. If you do want plants there, then weeding comes with the territory.

Arsenic Lupin fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Sep 30, 2021

QuarkJets
Sep 8, 2008

Weed fabric loving sucks and I refuse to use it anymore, like the previous poster said you are just going to get new weeds on top of the fabric so it's pointless. It's fine if you are covering it with something other than soil, like rocks and bricks

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm

Sirotan posted:

Gonna also talk up this shade I got for my front door from SelectBlinds, it is called a trishade. Blackout shade on the bottom and sheer on the top, I have the base of the shade attached to the door and the sheer section 'on' during the day, then switch to blackout at night. A little pricier than all my other cellular shades but I love it.


This is pretty cool. I'm looking for something similar, blackout on the bottom and something on top that will allow air through, not necessarily blackout.

Use case is an upstairs bedroom window with a bright street light shining right in at eye level when laying down in bed. I like having the window open for air flow at night and full blackout curtains restrict flow too much.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


spf3million posted:

This is pretty cool. I'm looking for something similar, blackout on the bottom and something on top that will allow air through, not necessarily blackout.

Use case is an upstairs bedroom window with a bright street light shining right in at eye level when laying down in bed. I like having the window open for air flow at night and full blackout curtains restrict flow too much.

You could also just get a blackout shade in the top-down/bottom-up configuration, I have them for all my living room windows (with a light filtering fabric) so that I can leave the shade covering the bottom of the windows for privacy, then open the windows from the top.

Blinds.com etc all do this, just find the kind of cellular shade you like and select top-down/bottom-up as a feature.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply