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I asked TH3d in regards to this, they suggested replacing the stock Ender 3 magnetic sheet with their one if using their steel/pei build surface.
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Oct 13, 2021 18:45
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Well I broke my heatbreak trying to get it out of the block. I guess it's time for a heatbreak upgrade. Keep some spares on hand is my advice!
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Oct 13, 2021 18:46
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When y'all do resin hollowing, what's the minimum wall thickness you use? 2mm? I'm working on some cosplay outfit accessories, so they aren't load bearing, but they need to not crumble like groverhouse if they get bumped into or pushed on.
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Oct 13, 2021 20:15
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3mm normally. I worry a lot about things cracking if they get smacked. I'd rather spend a bit more in resin and have my print hold up to taking a header off the table than save half a penny and wake up to shards everywhere.
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Oct 13, 2021 22:39
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poll plane variant posted:Well I broke my heatbreak trying to get it out of the block. I guess it's time for a heatbreak upgrade. Keep some spares on hand is my advice! If you want to avoid a repeat, the Dragon hotend is an improvement in every way and a drop-in replacement for a v6. Trianglelabs seems to be the preferred vendor. Don't bother with the high-flow model.
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Oct 13, 2021 23:24
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Wanderless posted:If you want to avoid a repeat, the Dragon hotend is an improvement in every way and a drop-in replacement for a v6. Trianglelabs seems to be the preferred vendor. Don't bother with the high-flow model. I'm just going to put in the titanium break with the copper block, have a "maxed out" V6, and never touch it again. The dragon is nice but I'm hardly ever even changing nozzles on this printer so it doesn't offer me much benefit really. I want to do a high flow/huge nozzle printer within "hobbyist" limits next I think, and just go up to a mosquito magnum plus or something like that since there's finally an alternative to the moronic supervolcano.
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Oct 13, 2021 23:32
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I have an ender 3v2, and I have my settings pretty dialed in on the printer and CURA for PLA and PETG printing. I have printed many a thing with zero stringing and specifically tuned it on the various calibration objects out there. That being said, i came across the collapsible sword STL (yes i am late to this party https://www.thingiverse.c) and I was attempting the test of the blade model. Its just three concentric circles which print completely fine, smooth, proper width, adhesion ,etc but on my z layer change, i get a slight string which fuses the three circles togethe ras one. Its enough to lock them together, not just a support style touch. I have no stringing anywhere else, and I am trying to find a specific setting that will address this as I don't want to play with my retraction distance / speed any more if i dont need to . I tried coasting, retract on z layer, etc and its just not going away. Has anyone solved this particular subset of the 'how can i stop stringing; issue or do i still need to edit retraction settings ? example : https://imgur.com/a/jbPyfYW
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Oct 13, 2021 23:59
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I'm really curious about the CF-specialized printer Raise3D is putting out; apparently CF filaments and typical dissolvable support filaments don't like to stick to one another, so apparently reliably pooping CF filaments + dissolvable supports is not a trivial thing. (They made a specialized one for CF filaments and are building it off their E2 IDEX platform)
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Oct 14, 2021 01:34
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I burned up a controller board on my hypercube build trying to install tmc2100 drivers into it. Anyone have a suggestion for a really simple/cheap board that will run marlin 2.0 or reprap firmware with tmc drivers? The requirements are modest: 2 motor corexy, single Z motor, I'd like to have "smart" hot end fan in addition to part cooling fan. I actually ordered a "Cloned Duet 2 Wifi V1.04" but it never shipped and I got a refund, wondering if there's something better.
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Oct 14, 2021 15:24
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mewse posted:I burned up a controller board on my hypercube build trying to install tmc2100 drivers into it. First thing to do is figure out how you did this, otherwise it won't matter what board you purchase because you'll likely repeat the mistake.
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Oct 14, 2021 15:36
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biracial bear for uncut posted:First thing to do is figure out how you did this, otherwise it won't matter what board you purchase because you'll likely repeat the mistake. It wasn't software, I wasn't setting the jumpers properly or putting the driver board in the correct direction and shocker something shorted out
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Oct 14, 2021 15:43
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The Eyes Have It posted:I'm really curious about the CF-specialized printer Raise3D is putting out; apparently CF filaments and typical dissolvable support filaments don't like to stick to one another, so apparently reliably pooping CF filaments + dissolvable supports is not a trivial thing. (They made a specialized one for CF filaments and are building it off their E2 IDEX platform) Seems pretty interesting - the build volume is larger even than a Markforged Onyx One, just by a bit. Based purely on second hand experience, it feels like Raise3D lag behind Markforged and Stratasys machines aimed at a similar target, but Raise frequently have bigger beds at the same price. It's not big stuff, mostly fiddliness, but if I'm over $2k on a printer, my appetite for fiddliness rapidly approaches 0. PA12 only is a bit of a disappointment at this stage, especially for a single material only printer. Since using PA6 in my BattleBots bot, I'm a solid convert (for non flexible/noncompliant applications), but I guess that goes for Markforged Onyx as well. E: the only other CF directed printer I know in a similar price point with separate support extruders is the MakerBot Method X Carbon Edition. That's got about half the build volume, but can do a lot of different materials, even third party, which feels like a pretty big boost.
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Oct 14, 2021 18:35
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this is a very weird failure: looks like just the left side supports failed? but it kept going somehow? I'm using the sirayatech fast gray with a tiny bit of anycubic eco gray mixed in, and this is the original file:  Layer time is the same as i've always used: 4 base layers @ 30s, 1.5s exposure on the print layers Does the siraya need a different exposure time maybe? I'm printing an RERF now just to check it out. Deviant fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Oct 14, 2021 |
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Oct 14, 2021 18:41
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Might wanna change your thingiverse passwords and poo poo 
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Oct 14, 2021 18:52
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I saw that earlier, went to thingiverse to change my password and couldn't figure out where to do it.
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Oct 14, 2021 18:56
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Guess it's a good thing I haven't put anything on Thingiverse since before 2016.
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Oct 14, 2021 19:20
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Class Warcraft posted:I saw that earlier, went to thingiverse to change my password and couldn't figure out where to do it. If you go to account settings and then Makerbot account there's an update password area. At least there is for me, I've seen people saying it's not there for them because ~thingiverse~ so idk
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Oct 14, 2021 19:21
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Deviant posted:this is a very weird failure: This just looks like a standard failure of supports on the bottom left of your model. Are the supports yours or did the model come presupported? I'd just add a few more in that general area.
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Oct 14, 2021 20:26
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InternetJunky posted:On my Mono X I print with Siraya at 1.3 exposure, and on a Mars2 Pro it's 1.8 so I think you're in the right range. It's auto from Lychee because i was lazy. I'm just surprised those 3 failed but the nearly identical ones on the right didn't? What % do you have your light set to on your mono x? mine's at 80.
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Oct 14, 2021 21:47
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gently caress, aware of the breach but silent about it. Those fuckers.
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Oct 14, 2021 21:59
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Deviant posted:It's auto from Lychee because i was lazy. I'm just surprised those 3 failed but the nearly identical ones on the right didn't?
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Oct 14, 2021 22:16
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The Eyes Have It posted:gently caress, aware of the breach but silent about it. Those fuckers. Stratasys seems a lot like the Oracle of the 3d printer world.
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Oct 14, 2021 22:31
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So I finally got a chance to setup my Mars3 that arrived a couple of weeks ago. Plugged it in and the LCD turns white and that's it. Awesome. If you're keeping count, that is now 6 Mars2 Pros, 2 Saturns, and a Mars3 that I have received either DOA or shortly after.
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Oct 14, 2021 22:48
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InternetJunky posted:I had nothing but grief from my mono X trying to find a good setting until I finally just put it to 100 and haven't looked back. Interesting. I run 80 @ 1.5s and i just got a good print. I could tune it up, but then I'd have to RERF again. I've never gotten a good RERF #1 with .8s default so i think i'll tune that up a bit as well.
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Oct 14, 2021 23:15
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Deviant posted:Interesting. I run 80 @ 1.5s and i just got a good print. I could tune it up, but then I'd have to RERF again. I've never gotten a good RERF #1 with .8s default so i think i'll tune that up a bit as well. I literally printed a 1/2 litre of resin of the same set of miniatures over and over with different machine UV settings only to get the best results at 100. I've had to replace my LCD after 5 months of printing nearly non-stop, but I have no way to know if it would have lasted longer with a lower setting.
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Oct 14, 2021 23:27
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InternetJunky posted:I literally printed a 1/2 litre of resin of the same set of miniatures over and over with different machine UV settings only to get the best results at 100. I've had to replace my LCD after 5 months of printing nearly non-stop, but I have no way to know if it would have lasted longer with a lower setting. weird that it ships at 50%, i guess screens were burning out? i have an extra screen so i'm not sweating it.
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Oct 14, 2021 23:44
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Huh, sucks about thingiverse but I just deleted my account when I realized the only designs I had uploaded were remixed models of an old TV show piece. Literally 1 follower that was a porn bot. GOSH WHATEVER SHALL I DO.
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Oct 15, 2021 00:24
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InternetJunky posted:I literally printed a 1/2 litre of resin of the same set of miniatures over and over with different machine UV settings only to get the best results at 100. I've had to replace my LCD after 5 months of printing nearly non-stop, but I have no way to know if it would have lasted longer with a lower setting. If that's a thing then that new anycubic DLP might be a stupid good value. If only there was a Saturn sized one
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Oct 15, 2021 03:57
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Rexxed posted:Stratasys seems a lot like the Oracle of the 3d printer world. Having worked with Stratasys printers and software and resellers since the mid-2000s...yes. They very much are. Their patents can't expire fast enough.
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Oct 15, 2021 05:37
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At work we now have a MakerBot Method X Carbon Edition, a Markforged Mk2, and a Raise3D Pro2 Plus in the "fancy FDM stable" and The Markforged is head and shoulders above the others in reliability (the Mk2 is functionally identical to the lower-end options when printing Onyx, which is where I'm comparing them). I feel like the Method X is perfectly decent hardware (if limited in size) but hobbled by incredibly bad software right now--which I hope will be fixed.Not holding my breath on that because of Stratasys... Our Raise3D is a bit older but unless the build quality has gone up a bunch they're well behind the others in reliably getting prints to work.
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Oct 15, 2021 06:12
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Oh, interesting, stratasys is the reason why Prusa, creality etc don't sell enclosures for their printers? I guess their patent expired early this year. Very curious to see what the Mk4 Prusa looks like
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Oct 15, 2021 06:18
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Got the MK3S+ assembled, currently calibrating. My dog is listening to its weird vibrations and staring at it with contempt. edit: Cory Parsnipson posted:Spend some time getting the axes perpendicular at the beginning and make sure to tighten the screws together. You'll want the bragging rights when the self test reports perpedicular axes, trust me. came back perpendicular. hell yeah Yerok fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Oct 15, 2021 |
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Oct 15, 2021 06:33
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^^^ noice  Yerok posted:Got the MK3S+ assembled, currently calibrating. My dog is listening to its weird vibrations and staring at it with contempt. Yesss that means it's working Ph'nglui mglw'nafh Cthulhu R'lyeh tihhtrn your nozzle 
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Oct 15, 2021 06:38
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Hadlock posted:Oh, interesting, stratasys is the reason why Prusa, creality etc don't sell enclosures for their printers? I guess their patent expired early this year. Very curious to see what the Mk4 Prusa looks like As I recall, the entirety of home 3d printing only started when one of their patents expired. And it's why we don't have production laser sintering for home printers.
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Oct 15, 2021 06:50
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A quick Google says that the core SLS patents expired in 2014, but, in short, those technologies don't scale down very well I'd be first in line for an aluminum SLS printer at $999 if they were at all economical to run
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Oct 15, 2021 07:33
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I got an ad for an affordable* metal printer on youtube just the other day. *apparently their idea of affordable is 100k if google is correct
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Oct 15, 2021 08:48
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Just a heads up that if you see ads on social media that take you to websites like this that you're probably looking at a scam. In case anybody had any doubts and were getting a bunch of ads on Twitter/etc. for them. Edit: The Australian YouTube 3d printer guy has noticed the Thingiverse debacle. https://youtu.be/Q9quSFxZgNY Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 11:56 on Oct 15, 2021 |
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Oct 15, 2021 11:07
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InternetJunky posted:So I finally got a chance to setup my Mars3 that arrived a couple of weeks ago. Plugged it in and the LCD turns white and that's it. Awesome. My stepdad has a similar Technology Disruption Field. My condolences.
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Oct 15, 2021 12:06
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Hadlock posted:A quick Google says that the core SLS patents expired in 2014, but, in short, those technologies don't scale down very well My big takeaway from metal SLS printers was roughly Metal SLS printer: 3'x4' Inert gas supply: from somewhere on the other side of the wall Special equipment and PPE poo poo for safely handling powdered metal: 12'x8' It's like resin printing's expanded footprint when you consider post-processing, etc but to the maxxx
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Oct 15, 2021 18:55
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yeah SLS powder is awful. even if you're just printing nylon, the stuff is so fine that it just diffuses through the air into everything around you, and you have to use special vacuums to clean it up because it can be ignited by the sparks in the motor and blow your vacuum cleaner to pieces. also it has to be kept bone dry and starts to go bad once you open the package, and you can only reuse at most about 50% of the unfused powder in a print. the rest just has to be thrown away. and of course there are all the regular machine calibration things like aligning and focusing the lasers, adjusting the distribution rollers, etc. and that's before you start getting into powdered metal that's so fine it spontaneously ignites on contact with the air. SLS machines are great if you have high throughput, plan to run the machine 24/7, and can fill the entire build volume with parts every time. outside that they're just a giant pain in the rear end.
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Oct 15, 2021 19:41
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