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Depending how mechanically inclined you are you can use a zip tie on the seat/chain stay or fork to at least true it, the dishing might get thrown off if it’s wildly out of true, as could the spoke tension, but it’s doable. I don’t really recommend it if you don’t know what you’re doing, but I’ve done it plenty of times before I got a proper stand.
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Oct 11, 2021 13:49
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If you want to confirm that is the noise, just put a dab or triflow on each spoke crossing and spoke nipple/eyelet and see if it goes away.
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Oct 11, 2021 16:53
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Serendipitaet posted:
This is really not great and is probably the source of A sound if not the sound. If the spokes are too loose the rim can flex and generally kind of suck. Go get it trued by a professional! the spoke tension is probably all over the place on that wheel and it needs a practiced hand
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Oct 11, 2021 21:32
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Jokerpilled Drudge posted:Go get it trued by a professional! the spoke tension is probably all over the place on that wheel and it needs a practiced hand Loose spokes on an otherwise straight wheel are generally the first to break.
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Oct 11, 2021 21:52
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:
2K clear is nasty stuff indeed.
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Oct 12, 2021 04:01
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Thanks for the input, all. I'll get the wheel issue fixed first and see if that does away with the noise.e.pilot posted:Depending how mechanically inclined you are you can use a zip tie on the seat/chain stay or fork to at least true it, the dishing might get thrown off if it’s wildly out of true, as could the spoke tension, but it’s doable. I don’t really recommend it if you don’t know what you’re doing, but I’ve done it plenty of times before I got a proper stand. The wheel isn't really out of true laterally, but I noticed a bit of a wobble that goes "up and down" i.e. parallel to the spokes instead of the axle when I hold the bike and spin the wheel. CopperHound posted:If they are charging less than $40, they probably are not retensioning the wheel and just making it straight with localized tension. This is kinda funny... I gave the bike to the place I bought it at for a tuneup after the first 1500k (on their recommendation). At the time, the back wheel was out of true with a visible lateral/side to side wobble, which I pointed out when I dropped the bike off. When I came to pick it up, they hadn't trued it. I mentioned it, they took it back to the workshop and I got it back after like 10 minutes, the wobble gone. But I think I started noticing the first intermittent sounds shortly after this.
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Oct 12, 2021 09:12
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^^ honestly the rim itself sounds not great maybe even bent. Might be more practical just to swap it with a non shite wheel CopperHound posted:If they are charging less than $40, they probably are not retensioning the wheel and just making it straight with localized tension. lmao okay yah let him true it himself.
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Oct 12, 2021 11:41
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e.pilot posted:if you want something fast get the schwalbe billy bonkers or g-one speed Oops... Big Apples roll well, but don't feel like they pedal well strangely enough.
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Oct 15, 2021 22:09
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i'm considering getting schwalbe marathon tires cuz i'm sick of getting flats, but they have 35 different models on their site...obvi i can skip the e-bike ones, but does anyone have any recs for the other, idk, 31 models?
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Oct 18, 2021 18:09
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Jazz Marimba posted:i'm considering getting schwalbe marathon tires cuz i'm sick of getting flats, but they have 35 different models on their site...obvi i can skip the e-bike ones, but does anyone have any recs for the other, idk, 31 models? Depends on the riding you're doing. The classic is the Marathon Plus (HS 440). The other plus models have different tread patterns if you need more grip. The regular Marathons (HS 420) are a little thinner but lighter. But we've sent a lot of people out of the shop with the Plus's before long trips and had them come back flatless, so that's my vote.
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Oct 18, 2021 20:46
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Jazz Marimba posted:i'm considering getting schwalbe marathon tires cuz i'm sick of getting flats, but they have 35 different models on their site...obvi i can skip the e-bike ones, but does anyone have any recs for the other, idk, 31 models? The e-bike ones aren't exclusively for e-bikes, it just means Schwalbe went out and got themselves a rating for that tire. A lot of tire models remain identical from one year to the next except for a new "e25 rated" decal.
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Oct 18, 2021 23:13
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I bought a Trek Dual Sport 2 back in July, been riding it around on mostly paved bike paths and sidewalks but also dusty gravel trails and maybe once or twice through mud and water. I haven't been on a bike really in 20 years before this so other than degreasing and lubricating my chain, I really haven't done anything outside that. I have been noticing some squeaking coming from what I imagine is the crank arm area as I peddle, and maybe over this past month it's been not as smooth as it was originally, I'm assuming I need to remove and reassemble the crank area, clean and grease it? I've eyeballed a few videos on youtube and it seems sort of.. complicated? Maybe I'm dumb and it's easier than I'm thinking. Any suggestions on the tools and stuff I need to get this done?
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Oct 19, 2021 13:42
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It may be just a loose crank arm that's settled in, or the bottom bracket (the things the crankset fit into). I will let other posters chime in here, but the easiest thing to do here is to just take it to the shop and let them tighten things up. With that said, you could get the tools to do it yourself, but it may not be worth the trouble.
Planet X fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Oct 19, 2021 |
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Oct 19, 2021 13:52
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Jazz Marimba posted:i'm considering getting schwalbe marathon tires cuz i'm sick of getting flats, but they have 35 different models on their site...obvi i can skip the e-bike ones, but does anyone have any recs for the other, idk, 31 models? Marathon greenguard are good. Almost as puncture resistant as marathon plus but lighter and cheaper.
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Oct 19, 2021 14:14
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iroguebot posted:I bought a Trek Dual Sport 2 back in July, been riding it around on mostly paved bike paths and sidewalks but also dusty gravel trails and maybe once or twice through mud and water. I haven't been on a bike really in 20 years before this so other than degreasing and lubricating my chain, I really haven't done anything outside that. I have been noticing some squeaking coming from what I imagine is the crank arm area as I peddle, and maybe over this past month it's been not as smooth as it was originally, I'm assuming I need to remove and reassemble the crank area, clean and grease it? I've eyeballed a few videos on youtube and it seems sort of.. complicated? Maybe I'm dumb and it's easier than I'm thinking. Any suggestions on the tools and stuff I need to get this done? Could be the pedals, stock pedals suck on bikes and sometimes only last a few months. Take it back to where you got it. Most shops will deal with minor stuff like this free of charge and this time of year if it's nothing major they might fix it in 10 minutes while you wait. As far as what you should be doing, not much; Lightly lube the chain, keep it clean especially the stanchions (upper silver part of the arms) on the fork, don't spray anything but water on the rotors and check air pressure about every week or so.
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Oct 19, 2021 14:19
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Planet X posted:It may be just a loose crank arm that's settled in, or the bottom bracket (the things the crankset fit into). You do not grease crankarms to the bottom bracket. I will let other posters chime in here, but the easiest thing to do here is to just take it to the shop and let them tighten things up. With that said, you could get the tools to do it yourself, but it may not be worth the trouble. I dunno if this is BXM specific but sometimes creaky cranks can enjoy grease on the crank arm splines.
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Oct 19, 2021 16:48
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I always grease crankarms to the bb. Maaaybe it's a bad idea with square taper but it hasn't bit me yet. Seized cranks because of not enough antiseize/grease though - gently caress that's annoying.
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Oct 19, 2021 17:14
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Also depending on your crank, it may be recommended by the manufacturer. Easy to google and check the manual.
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Oct 19, 2021 17:21
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Gotcha, corrected above thanks, didnt know.
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Oct 19, 2021 17:36
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Also don't know how much it stuck out but it's less dealing with the creaking and more it feels harder to peddle. The actual peddles themselves where my feet go spin around and move fine, but it's more where the arms connect to the bike.
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Oct 19, 2021 19:31
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iroguebot posted:Also don't know how much it stuck out but it's less dealing with the creaking and more it feels harder to peddle. The actual peddles themselves where my feet go spin around and move fine, but it's more where the arms connect to the bike. Definitely just take it back to the shop. Might just need a new bottom bracket, but that is a cheap replacement and not much labor.
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Oct 19, 2021 21:07
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Jazz Marimba posted:i'm considering getting schwalbe marathon tires cuz i'm sick of getting flats, but they have 35 different models on their site...obvi i can skip the e-bike ones, but does anyone have any recs for the other, idk, 31 models?
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Oct 19, 2021 22:09
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Howdy howdy people Im needing to replace the sheath/tubing(?) On some old cabled brakes What exactly do I google/ask for ? I just keep getting hydraulic tubing online
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Oct 20, 2021 20:54
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Jestery posted:Howdy howdy people Cable housing. Just go to a shop with the old stuff and they'll cut you some new stuff from a big reel.
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Oct 20, 2021 20:58
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Jfc Thank you so much
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Oct 20, 2021 20:59
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I am having issues with the chain getting stuck/coming off the guide pulley. Info: Ultegra di2 setup (r8050), 50/34 with 11-28 cassette. I've been running this setup for a little over 2 years, having changed the chain twice, never had a stuck or dropped chain. A few weeks ago I changed the chain, cassette and the big chainring and now I've had this problem like 6-7 times. Haven't touched the derailleurs nor changed anything else, just swapped parts. Chain is the same, cut to the same length. Everything is installed in the direction its supposed to. Now, this only seems to occur when I am in the big ring/big cog combo and I switch to the small ring while pedalling slowly, yes I know I should not be cross chaining, but sometimes I miscalculate the slope grade/length and I just get stuck. Sometimes I just do it so I dont have to shift from the small -> big ring when coming to the end of the slope. The problem is that this hasnt happened in over 2 years of me doing the same. What can I check? I've had the bike over at my lbs and we checked all the parts and everything seems straight, hanger is fine, wheel is centered, rest is new. I've been using semi-syncro since always, but now I think I'll be trying the full syncro to prevent me cross chaining. As a precaution I did order a set of plates to replace (its all scraped now and there is one part that has a cut from the chain, maybe something is bent slightly there).
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Nov 5, 2021 22:24
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El Laucha posted:I am having issues with the chain getting stuck/coming off the guide pulley. Does your guide pulley use a narrow/wide toothing (I don't know road bikes)? Maybe it isn't being seated on the proper tooth if so? Otherwise I'd check your B screw, maybe the pulley is too close to the cassette and when you shift it's causing increased lateral force on the chain and it just pops off.
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Nov 5, 2021 22:31
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Hows the wear on the small ring, can you post a pic? Its the only thing you didn't replace and it might not be meshing well with the new chain if its worn.
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Nov 6, 2021 00:17
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Jestery posted:Jfc Always replace your inners at the same time too, it's super simple (and cheap) but you do need a pair of snips that can cut stainless steel braided wire. Getting the old inner back into a new outer is not fun job, a new cable comes with the end of the braid spot welded together. I think the snips I use were about $6 from an auto parts store.
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Nov 14, 2021 09:11
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I think i got some rattling round in the toolbox My end goal is a more aesthetic plan with some white housing
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Nov 14, 2021 10:04
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eSporks posted:Hows the wear on the small ring, can you post a pic? Didnt look worn, but my lbs sanded it a bit while I wait for the replacement parts. Seems to have worked, for now.
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Nov 14, 2021 17:13
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El Laucha posted:my lbs sanded it a bit What the gently caress?
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Nov 14, 2021 17:22
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SimonSays posted:What the gently caress? Not everyone has the luxury of not having to ride their bike and helping them make do with what is available is an important service. E: I love to keep a bike with clean new parts, but in the end all it has to do is just go and stop without killing the rider. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Nov 14, 2021 |
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Nov 14, 2021 17:43
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Same thing happens with cars, sometimes you just have to keep it on the road until you can do it right. It's reasonable.
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Nov 15, 2021 05:05
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I just bought a used 2015 Trek Farley 6, running tubeless. I have a squeak that I can't track down when I ride at 8 PSI, but it goes away with I air up the tires (~15 PSI). It doesn't appear to be pedals or seat-related. Doesn't happen on a bike stand. Appears to be linked to wheel rotation (when I hear it, I can stop and push the bike forward slowly and get the squeak; appears periodic and happens more frequently when riding faster) couldn't reproduce but I hadn't figured out it was tire pressure related when I took it in. Hubs? Spoke tension?
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Nov 15, 2021 06:01
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Yeah, its a temp fix while the parts arrive (found them on aliexpress so its going to take a while). I was actually considering changing the whole rear derailleur.
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Nov 15, 2021 13:06
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Edit: wrong thread probably, oops Time fucked around with this message at 13:50 on Nov 15, 2021 |
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Nov 15, 2021 13:28
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 I assume this is a total loss for this wheel? It's off a 70s schwinn le tour III front wheel, is it possible to find a replacement cone that would fit? The hub shell races have some discoloration but are functional I think.
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Nov 16, 2021 00:05
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I have had luck finding hubs to cannibalize at my local bike coop. If you have something like that or a used bike stuff store with a big shop, you might be in luck. Carefully drive the cone out of the shroud by using a socket that it’ll fit over and tapping the cone itself with a hammer.
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Nov 16, 2021 00:17
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Salt Fish posted:
It's not particularly dangerous to ride on this, mind you, but it'll be hard to find a replacement without cannibalizing another wheel of the same make and vintage.
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Nov 16, 2021 00:41
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