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any are fine, you can go way cheaper without making a difference. honestly if you found a cheap cooler for about 20 bucks you'd be doing better than spending 20 bucks on the paste. arctic m4 or whatever is totally fine.
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Oct 28, 2021 22:58
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If your chip is running without any cooler it doesn't generate sufficient heat to really care about which paste you get.
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Oct 28, 2021 22:59
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VelociBacon posted:If your chip is running without any cooler it doesn't generate sufficient heat to really care about which paste you get. Cool cool cool. It's an i5-4590. It's been noticeably sluggish but I don't do anything really high performance anyway. Thanks.
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Oct 28, 2021 23:07
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Tbf if you find the right cooler it might come with paste anyway.
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Oct 28, 2021 23:14
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Lol legit had no idea something like an i5 wouldn't immediately hit thermal shutdown on the slightest load without a cooler. That's actually pretty cool that the throttling is so aggressive and quick it'll clock down to be able to run without a cooler once it hits a load.
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Oct 28, 2021 23:18
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I too am amazed that this PC still functions. Anyway, I also want to tidy up your cable management. At least tie those cables to something out of the way! If anything because they'll get in the way of a tower cooler, and most cheap CPU coolers are tower coolers these days. I'd just toss in the $30 Vetroo V3 or something.
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Oct 28, 2021 23:23
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Shrimp or Shrimps posted:Lol legit had no idea something like an i5 wouldn't immediately hit thermal shutdown on the slightest load without a cooler. That's actually pretty cool that the throttling is so aggressive and quick it'll clock down to be able to run without a cooler once it hits a load. He basically has a macbook until he fixes it I guess.
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Oct 28, 2021 23:24
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Yeah, most CPUs are quick enough to throttle hard at 99C (or whatever) to try to survive. It's not the Athlon thunderbird anymore. Most of the ones I've seen will drop to 800mhz or something else very tame with a low multiplier. I once diagnosed a dead heatsink (well, it was a pump on a CLC but close enough) over voice chat with a goon with a slow PC from the other side of the planet.
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Oct 28, 2021 23:32
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:I too am amazed that this PC still functions. Anyway, I also want to tidy up your cable management. At least tie those cables to something out of the way! If anything because they'll get in the way of a tower cooler, and most cheap CPU coolers are tower coolers these days. I'd just toss in the $30 Vetroo V3 or something. Oh, that's not too bad. I assembled the computer myself but I don't know poo poo about coolers so I assumed the one that came with the chip would be fine. I have an "LGA1150" CPU socket, so that one might not be compatible. It looks like these will fit and have good reviews: https://www.amazon.ca/Vetroo-Cooling-Contact-Heatsink-Support/dp/B08M6D5XGQ https://www.amazon.ca/DEEPCOOL-GAMMAXX400V2-Cooler-Heatpipes-Compatible/dp/B085G8WJCC https://www.amazon.ca/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PK-R1-Contact-Silencio/dp/B07H25DYM3 Any red flags?
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Oct 29, 2021 00:21
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Offhand, check the height of those coolers and make sure they're not too tall to fit in your case.
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Oct 29, 2021 00:24
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intel coolers are notorious for being poor, and that's an 84w part so it's making some heat. it's very surprising that you didn't notice any significant performance issues with the cooler off, it should have ran but terrible. you should get a pretty significant performance uplift with any cooler but still should see some gains with a better cooler. and although idk about a chip from 2014 almost every company sells or supplies kits to allow them to convert to eg the AM4 socket if your next pc was ryzen or whatever. and while you might replace the fans coolers themselves last forever, they're totally passive.
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Oct 29, 2021 00:33
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Facebook Aunt posted:Oh, that's not too bad. I assembled the computer myself but I don't know poo poo about coolers so I assumed the one that came with the chip would be fine. On reflection, the Vetroo V5 is the one I meant to link since that one has gotten several positive reviews despite being a cheap budget cooler. Both the V3 and V5 would work, though the V5 will be quieter.
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Oct 29, 2021 00:51
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CoolCab posted:intel coolers are notorious for being poor, and that's an 84w part so it's making some heat. it's very surprising that you didn't notice any significant performance issues with the cooler off, it should have ran but terrible. you should get a pretty significant performance uplift with any cooler but still should see some gains with a better cooler. and although idk about a chip from 2014 almost every company sells or supplies kits to allow them to convert to eg the AM4 socket if your next pc was ryzen or whatever. and while you might replace the fans coolers themselves last forever, they're totally passive. It probably helped that I was playing Evil Genius 1 and Tropico 2 all summer, and old games run like garbage anyway. Then I tried Going Medieval and thought the game was poorly optimised, but that's what you expect with early access titles. Sure Chrome is running poorly, but that's probably dumb google ad bloat or something.  I am not a clever person.Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:On reflection, the Vetroo V5 is the one I meant to link since that one has gotten several positive reviews despite being a cheap budget cooler. Both the V3 and V5 would work, though the V5 will be quieter. Luckily noise is not a consideration. My apartment overlooks a busy supermarket loading dock. I deliberately run an air filter with a noisy fan as white noise to smooth out the the sounds of apartment life and noisy trucks. Thanks!
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Oct 29, 2021 00:57
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Kind of a networking hardware question. I'm staying with my parents for awhile. They have an ATnT modem they use for their wifi at the house. It came from ATnT. I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084HLB7LJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 the TP-link AC4000 Tri band router. Assuming I get it setup correctly, will using this router instead of the stock modem/router that ATnT issues you give me better/faster wifi speeds? Or should I upgrade the Modem also? Basically looking for faster/better wifi within the house. Not a real huge house, only 2k sq.ft or so one story, and I'm not real far from the modem, so it's not like I have any wifi speed problems right now - I'm just looking to make it better. Thanks for the help.
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Oct 29, 2021 02:32
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virtually certainly, ISP routers are nearly universally hot garbage e: well, better is subjective but I would expect more stable and at least quicker because of that, you might be ultimately more limited by your pipes total speed I guess
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Oct 29, 2021 02:47
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Dennis McClaren posted:Kind of a networking hardware question. It'll be better but make sure you can put the ISP router/modem into bridge mode
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Oct 29, 2021 03:49
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I know nothing about computer cameras for streaming. Any recommendations about brands to avoid or what a good sweet spot is for value? I thought this post made more sense here than IYG, but let me know if there's a better thread.
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Nov 3, 2021 17:11
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Yeah I would start with something like this. Limited-time deal: Logitech C920x HD Pro Webcam, Full HD 1080p/30fps Video Calling, Clear Stereo Audio, HD Light Correction, Works with Skype, Zoom, FaceTime, Hangouts, PC/Mac/Laptop/Macbook/Tablet - Black https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B085TFF7M1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_dl_05ZQ2XA399BJBSFQ76JK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 It’s one of the most popular cameras and it works well. Just make sure you have a good lighting setup and the camera will do you well till you are ready to get serious with it.
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Nov 3, 2021 18:08
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Thanks!
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Nov 3, 2021 20:40
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PhilippAchtel posted:Thanks! Not sure if you ordered it yet but Newegg has the e version for $55 https://www.newegg.com/logitech-960-001384-c920e/p/1EF-000C-006D1 Pretty sure it’s the same camera just a newer revision.
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Nov 4, 2021 01:07
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I have a use-case question with a few variables 1. I want to have a NAS. Specifically, I want to be able to store movies/tv on a device, but also perhaps backup images from a digital camera. This ideally will need to have a minimum of 4 drives, because I feel that two disks in raid 1 is wasting an entire drive of storage space simply for parity. 2. Raid is a requirement, due to hard drives failing being a thing (anything important would be backed up offsite), but, I don't think I need the increase in disk performance. I would like to have the "normal" performance from regular 7200rpm drives, but am unsure if I need it or not. SSDs in the size raid I want is too expensive, for the write speed I don't feel I will need. Looks like the bare minimum I currently need is about 5TB (not sure if four, 2TB in raid will actually resolve into 6TB of USABLE space after being in a raid or not, but even so, that wont allow much expandibility for backups, or storing raw files down the line, or other potential projects...4TB in RAID5 is probably a better starting point, as that would give me 12TB of theoretical storage) 3. I want to be able to pull the movies/tv from the nas in some fashion, usually to a client directly connected to the network the nas is on, but perhaps rarely, outside of the network. Perhaps also rarely, stream to an ipad or something. Generally, there would be just 1 stream of anything at any given time, and is unlikely to ever need more than 3 active streams, either locally or remote (in fact I'd hit my ISP upload speed limit after 1 remote stream, and that is not likely to be upgraded anytime soon.) 4. I would be interested in being able to have a device (or set of devices?), that isn't my current computer (strong gaming pc) to offload the following:
I realize from having done various research that technically something like a Synology DS920+ is probably strong enough to do some/all of the above, depending on various factors, but that it isn't especially good at 4k transcoding. Right now, I just have my personal computer doing that, but I want something else to do all that noise so it doesn't interfere with what I'm doing, if I want to spin up a game or whatever else. I do have a few concerns, mostly power draw. I suppose some of the low-level stuff might be doable from a newer raspberry pi than I have, but also other potential concerns such as, should I not run a nas that also has a web server installed on it? Is there not a way to harden the device to prevent someone from gaining access to the filesystem, which I assume is the concern? Other concerns are space, I don't particularly want a huge full tower case, and was hoping for the formfactor of something like a DS920+ I also heard something about using an Nvidia Shield TV (in lieu of the 4k Fire Stick) and just make that somehow deal with any transcoding from a low-power NAS that can only handle file serving, though I am not familiar with this to know how that is setup offhand. If this is one solution, I may be able to justify a cheap NAS to run as a file server and get a raspberry pi or two and see if they can handle doing the rest on their own, but I don't know if I'm barking up the wrong tree or if I should go about this another way. Lastly, of course, cost is a concern, as I'd prefer to scrape the bottom of the barrel in terms of prices if I can. I'm not running a business, so I don't have the same level of uptime requirements, or speed of urgency. The biggest wrinkle if something "went wrong" would be replacing whatever the failed component ends up being, the cost to replace whatever, and the time spent fixing it. edit: also I guess being able to slot in more drives later on, would be worthwhile as I slowly have the funds to buy more drives, but I assume I would be stuck at the size drives I add to the array? going up to larger size drives means rebuilding the entire raid from scratch? GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Nov 7, 2021 |
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Nov 7, 2021 05:30
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quote:Other concerns are space, I don't particularly want a huge full tower case, and was hoping for the formfactor of something like a DS920+ So I realize you say this but with your other requirements I really think tower (ish) case might be your best cost effective route. I dunno. I get what you want but I’m not sure you’ll be able to tick all those boxes.
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Nov 7, 2021 06:34
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MarcusSA posted:So I realize you say this but with your other requirements I really think tower (ish) case might be your best cost effective route. If this is really such a stopgap, then I'm prepared to figure out a way to stick the drat thing in the basement instead. It might have latency, but it'd be potentially doable to setup a wifi extender in the basement, rather than drilling holes in the walls to run cable through (though if I make it look nice, I'm sure the landlord won't really care). I don't really have the space, and power constraints to deal with another tower in the studio apartment itself (since there's already a PC/TV/AC/etc up here)
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Nov 7, 2021 06:44
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Depending what you mean by tower, I just built a server using the Fractal Design Node 304 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009LHF4FO/ It's got room for 6 internal 3.5s (4 if you're putting in a huge video card but I just used the Intel on chip video). It's only 8x15x10. Limited to mini itx but that's not a huge issue for the stuff you're talking about.
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Nov 7, 2021 14:21
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Yeah I think a Node 304 running unbraid would tick most if not all of your boxes there. I ran a 304 for a couple years before I switched to a rackmount server and it was fantastic. Get a consumer ITX Intel board with quick sync and you should be able to have Plex hardware transcode 4k very easily. FCKGW fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Nov 7, 2021 |
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Nov 7, 2021 16:02
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I built my brother a little gaming pc in a node 304 and it was an absolute pleasure. You can fit a lot of full size GPU's in that thing so lots of room for drives.
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Nov 7, 2021 16:35
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e: wrong thread
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Nov 7, 2021 23:59
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FCKGW posted:Yeah I think a Node 304 running unbraid would tick most if not all of your boxes there. Why Intel over ryzen? Cheaper? better performance? I won't be gaming on this box, as I have a gaming PC already (5600x/32gb ram/3070/1440p144hz), this would just need enough oomph to transcode 4k occasionally (even if I went through the media with a fine tooth comb, it'll happen eventually) and sometimes run a VM or another project while the transcoding is happening. Wouldn't the CPU not matter drastically if it's hardware transcoding on say a 1060?
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Nov 8, 2021 03:34
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Why Intel over ryzen? Cheaper? better performance? I won't be gaming on this box, as I have a gaming PC already (5600x/32gb ram/3070/1440p144hz), this would just need enough oomph to transcode 4k occasionally (even if I went through the media with a fine tooth comb, it'll happen eventually) and sometimes run a VM or another project while the transcoding is happening. Wouldn't the CPU not matter drastically if it's hardware transcoding on say a 1060? Intel Quicksync is widely supported and already baked in to most CPUS and is incredibly powerful. An $60 8th Gen celeron can transcode up to 20 1080p streams simultaneously. If you want to get a Ryzen and nVidia GPU then that’s fine but for your usage a dedicated video card is just wasted money and power.
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Nov 8, 2021 03:45
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I'm plotting a low spec HTPC type machine. Comparing CPUs I need some expert opinions. Pentium Gold G6400 vs. Celeron G5900 The G6400 has better performance but I can't find a decent deal on it. Best price is $110 on Amazon at the moment. While the 5900 is $80. Seems like a petty difference but I'm trying to keep this as low budget as possible. This machine is at most running Chrome and streaming Netflix. So I'm not sure if I'm going to notice a difference in performance. Just looking for some advice or input. Thanks.
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Nov 9, 2021 23:26
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Action-Bastard posted:I'm plotting a low spec HTPC type machine. FWIW the G6400 MSRP is $70 https://www.shopblt.com/item/intel-boxed-pentium-gold-g6400-proc/intel_bx80701g6400~b7mm826.html I'd go for the 6400 personally but don't pay that amazon price. https://hssl.us/boxed-intel-pentium-gold-g6400-processor-4m-cache-4-00-ghz-fc-lga14c/ EDIT: The MSRP on that 5900 is supposed to be $40 lol its also a year older and has half the cache. MarcusSA fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Nov 9, 2021 |
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Nov 9, 2021 23:37
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We truly live in dark times. I ordered the 6400 you linked, thanks! (Second link wanted $25 for shipping. Hell no) Action-Bastard fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Nov 9, 2021 |
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Nov 9, 2021 23:48
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When did the hell did they start using the term Pentium again?
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Nov 10, 2021 07:06
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Chumbawumba4ever97 posted:When did the hell did they start using the term Pentium again? I don't think they ever stopped, there were even Pentium Core during the Core 2 generation
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Nov 10, 2021 07:20
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Chumbawumba4ever97 posted:When did the hell did they start using the term Pentium again? Pentium as a branding has been in near continuous use all this time. For example, the Pentium E2200 was a socket 775 CPU that was contemporary with the Core2Duo E4200 as Intel moved into the Core i3/i5/i7 branding, Pentiums have generally been relegated to refer to exclusively dual-core chips. before, an i3 might be a dual-core with hyperthreading, and a Pentium would be a dual-core without right now, with i3's being quad-cores with hyperthreading, a Pentium is a dual-core also with hyperthreading and then the Celeron brand would be for dual-cores without hyperthreading
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Nov 10, 2021 07:22
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You find Celerons and Pentiums a lot in Chromebooks and other netbooks. They still get around.
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Nov 10, 2021 07:46
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So the computer fell over, which isn’t great … Rechecked all cables, but I have not repaired the CPU cooler. The Ryzen CPU had bent pins when I set it up, and I’d at least want to leave it in without unsocketing it just in case. Ran a check in storage devices which seem fine. The GPU brackets I installed sure paid for themselves. The computer runs fine … except it keeps making what sounds like a BIOS chirp often (on the ASUS Crosshair VII). It also shows BIOS error 33, errors 32-36 being “CPU post-memory initialisation”, whatever that means. Obviously it’s now turned off, and this is a phonepost. I haven’t reset BIOS yet, in case it might make troubleshooting harder. Any ideas what this means, goons?
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Nov 16, 2021 21:18
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Bad RAM/Badly seated RAM would be my first guess. I'd pull out the sticks and make sure they're clean and seated firmly. If you're still getting the error put them in one at a time and find the bad one.
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Nov 16, 2021 21:20
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Azhais posted:Bad RAM/Badly seated RAM would be my first guess. I'd pull out the sticks and make sure they're clean and seated firmly. If you're still getting the error put them in one at a time and find the bad one.
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Nov 16, 2021 21:44
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Just a few updates about the dropped PC from above before I go to bed, in case someone infers anything from it:
https://streamable.com/90sn1x e: nvm, i just heard the sound again. It kinda sounds like the sound the computer makes before it's forced to turn off fwiw. If it's not the BIOS, then it would sound a little like a hard drive, but all of them passed both diskovery and Windows' checking tool thing kliras fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Nov 17, 2021 |
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Nov 16, 2021 23:41
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