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cruft
Oct 25, 2007

Tezer posted:

I'm a residential estimator

This thread is awesome.

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SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
I'm a residential DIYer and you're missing a line item for alcohol. I recommend at least 3 figures worth.

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


SpartanIvy posted:

I'm a residential DIYer and you're missing a line item for alcohol. I recommend at least 3 figures worth.

gas for 20+ trips to the hardware store

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



You're paying for someone to do the floor; I'm assuming that you'll have the toilet & vanity pulled along with the baseboards/vinyl cove.

Even cleaned out like that, chances are you're looking at $1500+ to replace the floor from the underlayment up. That may sound high. It is high, but you have to consider that set-up and prep for a tiny floor takes the same amount of time & effort as a floor up to 200-SF, so you're paying for the dog & pony show before they actually start. Obviously the materials would be less. It also depends on:

- where you are located;
- the availability of competent contractors in your area.
- the desire of contractors to do these 'small' jobs

The last two years have been brutal for getting competent contractors to do any job, and the percentage of hacks flooding into the market has increased, so that when you get an $800 bid for the floor, odds are good that you'll be seeing Zippy the Pinhead. Now, Zippy probably can talk a good game, but he or she will take until Memorial Day to gently caress up install your floor, while you marvel at the veritable plethora of excuses for why your bathroom is now a tool storage unit with a portal to hell in one corner.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

PainterofCrap posted:

The last two years have been brutal for getting competent contractors to do any job, and the percentage of hacks flooding into the market has increased, so that when you get an $800 bid for the floor, odds are good that you'll be seeing Zippy the Pinhead. Now, Zippy probably can talk a good game, but he or she will take until Memorial Day to gently caress up install your floor, while you marvel at the veritable plethora of excuses for why your bathroom is now a tool storage unit with a portal to hell in one corner.

This is good advice.

I just heard back from the electrician who was supposed to do our service upgrade in November so the minisplits could power up. He said he'd come out on the 17th or 18th if the weather was okay.

I asked the HVAC guy, who's subcontracting the electrician, if he wasn't going to need to apply for permits before doing a service upgrade. The reply was "that's his problem."

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010

PainterofCrap posted:

You're paying for someone to do the floor; I'm assuming that you'll have the toilet & vanity pulled along with the baseboards/vinyl cove.

Even cleaned out like that, chances are you're looking at $1500+ to replace the floor from the underlayment up. That may sound high. It is high, but you have to consider that set-up and prep for a tiny floor takes the same amount of time & effort as a floor up to 200-SF, so you're paying for the dog & pony show before they actually start. Obviously the materials would be less. It also depends on:

- where you are located;
- the availability of competent contractors in your area.
- the desire of contractors to do these 'small' jobs

The last two years have been brutal for getting competent contractors to do any job, and the percentage of hacks flooding into the market has increased, so that when you get an $800 bid for the floor, odds are good that you'll be seeing Zippy the Pinhead. Now, Zippy probably can talk a good game, but he or she will take until Memorial Day to gently caress up install your floor, while you marvel at the veritable plethora of excuses for why your bathroom is now a tool storage unit with a portal to hell in one corner.
Yikes. Yeah I would give them a clean slate and not have to go around vanity at all. My numbers were an absolute guess based on what feels right. I wasn't thinking of underlayment or anything, was thinking/hoping that the vinyl could just go down on the sub floor and TBD who tears up old vinyl, i'd probably start, want to punch somnething, then quit and pay someone.


SpartanIvy posted:

I'm a residential DIYer and you're missing a line item for alcohol. I recommend at least 3 figures worth.
Good call, my winter reserves are well stocked, so that budget item is good to go



armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

It's a good start

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


Looking to tile my bathroom, about 75 ft2 of flooring total. I've done a few other jobs, used the Schluter Ditra membrane and had good luck with it. On this floor there is 3/4" plywood on 2x10's, with 1/4" lauan glued and stapled with sheet vinyl glued to that. I'm not comfortable putting the Ditra onto the sheet vinyl, even if Schluter says it's OK.

My options are either strip the vinyl and maybe the luaun, or anchor 1/4" tile backer (DensShield) and go over that with the tile. I'd rather just go over it with the tile backer. Is that gonna be cool?

In either case I'll be putting leveller down first.

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


Where's the line item for the bathtub rock garden and HDR photos?

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

falz posted:

Good call, my winter reserves are well stocked, so that budget item is good to go
Looks like you're all ready to start to me :cheers:



Relevant to the thread title, I installed a Flume smart home water monitor just now. Seems to work at least decently well based on my 5 minutes of playing with it. I'm hoping it will alert me when my 70 year old galvanized house run gives up the ghost, or of anything else starts leaking.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Sirotan posted:

Demo might be free but you'll probably need to spend some money getting all the trash hauled away. Could probably fit it all in a Bagster if that's an option in your area.

Pay attention to your local garbage collector rules. I have thrown out a non-zero percentage of my house using just large contractor trash bags. Most things demo'd collapse into smaller things. Tile? In the bag. Vanity? Break it apart, in the bag. Etc.

FuzzySlippers
Feb 6, 2009

So it seems like without gas a tankless water heater isn't worth it compared to a heat pump tank heater especially if you use a lot of water?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

falz posted:

Good call, my winter reserves are well stocked, so that budget item is good to go





What is your plan for after demo and haul off?

FuzzySlippers posted:

So it seems like without gas a tankless water heater isn't worth it compared to a heat pump tank heater especially if you use a lot of water?

Tankless electric is basically never worth it.

Eason the Fifth
Apr 9, 2020
Just bought a house with a liquid propane oven (Frigidaire Convection Oven Professional Series) that has no exhaust except for a microwave over the stovetop with a vent fan on the bottom. This is my first time using LP gas for home appliances. When the oven preheats, I smell gas for about 10 minutes -- not the sulfur smell of unburnt gas, but the smell of burnt propane like you'd smell around a propane grill. It goes away once the oven preheats and dinner starts cooking. I grew up in a house with a natural gas utility but I don't remember the range having this strong of a smell, so I'm not sure if this is normal or not for LP gas. Anyone have any input on this?

Eason the Fifth fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Jan 5, 2022

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Correctly combusted propane ~shouldn't~ have a smell

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Yeah what? I don't know what combusted propane smells like and have never smelled it around a working grill.

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010

H110Hawk posted:

What is your plan for after demo and haul off?

Chop the old one piece tub down to prices, put in bags in trash. Same with old vinyl if it has to come up.

For the old vanity, if it comes out solidly donate to habitat for humanity. If not break down and same as above.

I think that's it? Unsure what to do with old mirror, it's fine but edges are janky.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

falz posted:

Chop the old one piece tub down to prices, put in bags in trash. Same with old vinyl if it has to come up.

For the old vanity, if it comes out solidly donate to habitat for humanity. If not break down and same as above.

I think that's it? Unsure what to do with old mirror, it's fine but edges are janky.

:confused: How is any of this relevant?

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Eason the Fifth posted:

Just bought a house with a liquid propane oven (Frigidaire Convection Oven Professional Series) that has no exhaust except for a microwave over the stovetop with a vent fan on the bottom. This is my first time using LP gas for home appliances. When the oven preheats, I smell gas for about 10 minutes -- not the sulfur smell of unburnt gas, but the smell of burnt propane like you'd smell around a propane grill. It goes away once the oven preheats and dinner starts cooking. I grew up in a house with a natural gas utility but I don't remember the range having this strong of a smell, so I'm not sure if this is normal or not for LP gas. Anyone have any input on this?

I get a slight odor on pre-heat and I have natural gas, but only if I open the oven door within a couple minutes of firing it up.

I do recall propane giving off a slight rich, yeasty odor when pre-heating the oven in the one home my family lived in with bottled gas. My mom wasn't worried & we didn't seem to get stupider.

If it is really strong - like, your eyes & nostrils are burning - I'd pull the bottom drawer out (or the oven floor: usually held in with a couple of screws) and examine the flames coming out of flame element/diffuser pipe. They should be blue, maybe with a couple flecks of yellow zipping by, but a good, solid coronas that are chiefly blue. If they aren't, then the pipe may not be aligned properly with the jet, there's crap in the jet &/or the pipe, or some other issue.

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



Yooper posted:

Looking to tile my bathroom, about 75 ft2 of flooring total. I've done a few other jobs, used the Schluter Ditra membrane and had good luck with it. On this floor there is 3/4" plywood on 2x10's, with 1/4" lauan glued and stapled with sheet vinyl glued to that. I'm not comfortable putting the Ditra onto the sheet vinyl, even if Schluter says it's OK.

My options are either strip the vinyl and maybe the luaun, or anchor 1/4" tile backer (DensShield) and go over that with the tile. I'd rather just go over it with the tile backer. Is that gonna be cool?

In either case I'll be putting leveller down first.

You shouldn't need leveler unless your floor is absolutely hosed.

What I would do in your place would be to strip the vinyl. Glue and screw the 1/4" denshield on top of the luaun. Tape your seams with mesh tape and thinset.

Throw a level on your floor, if it's absolutely hosed, now's the time to put the leveler on there. Ardex has some great stuff if you can find it.

Ditra seams like massive overkill for a 75SqFt bathroom floor, but you do you. Kerdi would work just as well in my opinion if you're going for the uncoupling membrane/waterproofing. If you use the schluter stuff, make sure you use their allset mortar on both sides, it's actually really good stuff.

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

nm posted:

^^^^^^
Honestly without moving that vent, you don't. Just get some bookshelves, maybe with some drawers that fit the space. The space on the sides will look like weird with movable furniture v. builtins.
And I say this as someone who has almost never seen something and not wanted to put a built in in.

:(

I kind of figured. Also why I asked... I kept looking at it and I couldn't figure out a good way to do it, so I was hoping there was something I was missing.

Vim Fuego posted:

Open the wall and move the vent!

Narp:



So this is the back side of the air return. It's under a staircase, so there's only so much I can move it... I got like maybe 6" I can do, possibly 8". WHich actually might be just enough, but you can see I'd have to gently caress around with the studs. I don't THINK that's a load bearing wall because it runs parallel with the joists underneath, but it does extend straight up to the attic, so it's not a great one to gently caress around with. I was actually hoping I could one day convert this to storage by adding a knee door to the closet (left of the return in the above picture, with all the defunct security system wires coming from it), but that return is very in the way for that purpose.

That said, if I could completely change the location of the return I'd be able to do a lot of things... not sure where the hell I'd put it, but worth considering some day.

nm posted:

If storage is something you can sacrifice you could maybe build in some benches with a lid.

BigFactory posted:

Put a bench? Low counter? On either side of the fireplace. The one on the right can be hollow and you can extend the return into it. The one on the left could flip up for storage.

:hmmyes:

I didn't consider a bench. So the foreground has a couch that is just out of frame facing the fireplace, and we were planning on eventually putting chairs in the corners of the room on each side of the fireplace. A bench with storage would kill 2 birds with one stone by adding seating AND storage... I like it.

~Coxy posted:

How the heck do you train your children not to touch your telescope?

:confused: you don't, you teach them how to use it:



We've actually been lucky. Mostly there's junk under it so they can't reach, but diverting them away from it has been surprisingly effective, and since it's kind of a fixture it's become more of a background object than something they focus on. Though since cleaning up after Christmas, it's accessible underneath now, hence the tennis ball to keep them from cracking their heads on pointy things

DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 14:47 on Jan 5, 2022

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


AFewBricksShy posted:

You shouldn't need leveler unless your floor is absolutely hosed.

What I would do in your place would be to strip the vinyl. Glue and screw the 1/4" denshield on top of the luaun. Tape your seams with mesh tape and thinset.

Throw a level on your floor, if it's absolutely hosed, now's the time to put the leveler on there. Ardex has some great stuff if you can find it.

Ditra seams like massive overkill for a 75SqFt bathroom floor, but you do you. Kerdi would work just as well in my opinion if you're going for the uncoupling membrane/waterproofing. If you use the schluter stuff, make sure you use their allset mortar on both sides, it's actually really good stuff.

Awesome, thanks dude!

slave to my cravings
Mar 1, 2007

Got my mind on doritos and doritos on my mind.

SpartanIvy posted:

Had an "Aha!" moment last night with the FLIR.

My girlfriend pointed out that both bedrooms in the house are identical except one is missing a window where it should have one on a back wall. I'd never considered that but it would make sense that a window used to be there because there was an old 240v receptacle below that area that could have really only powered an old AC window unit. On the other side of that wall is also where the central AC Condenser is so it would make sense that they would have walled up the window because of noise concerns after central AC was put it.

There's not a huge inside/outside cold differential right now, but even so I can clearly see the window header and studs still there, as well as an additional stud they put in for sheet rocking.


Looks like one of the POs was a total boss and they did a huge refresh on the house in the 70s or early 80s to brick it up, install central AC, re-sheetrock most, if not all rooms, add exterior wall insulation to most of the walls, patch the floors from the old furnace that was removed, and more. And it was all done well.

I wish I could shake their loving hand and I hope they are smiling at me from beyond the grave for fixing all the poo poo the owner(s) between us did.

Which FLIR model is this? I’m thinking about getting the phone attachment ones mainly for finding drafty windows and some other stuff but some of the reviews seem bad (like the lightning or usb connector breaking off really easily). Wondering if it’s worth it or if I should get a standalone unit.

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
I'm also in team "I should really get an infrared camera to find drafty windows" so interested in advice there as well.

ScooterMcTiny
Apr 7, 2004

I just got the iPhone FLIR last week to do the same. It seems fine? I don’t have much to compare it to beyond a $30 IR temperature gun.

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


If you live somewhere with a really nice library, they sometimes have FLIR cameras available for loan.

AFewBricksShy posted:

You shouldn't need leveler unless your floor is absolutely hosed.

What I would do in your place would be to strip the vinyl. Glue and screw the 1/4" denshield on top of the luaun. Tape your seams with mesh tape and thinset.

Throw a level on your floor, if it's absolutely hosed, now's the time to put the leveler on there. Ardex has some great stuff if you can find it.

Ditra seams like massive overkill for a 75SqFt bathroom floor, but you do you. Kerdi would work just as well in my opinion if you're going for the uncoupling membrane/waterproofing. If you use the schluter stuff, make sure you use their allset mortar on both sides, it's actually really good stuff.

I'm gonna be tackling a small bathroom reno this year and this post was very helpful, thanks.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

slave to my cravings posted:

Which FLIR model is this? I’m thinking about getting the phone attachment ones mainly for finding drafty windows and some other stuff but some of the reviews seem bad (like the lightning or usb connector breaking off really easily). Wondering if it’s worth it or if I should get a standalone unit.

It's the "FLIR One Gen III: Android (USB-C)". The cheapest one available at the time and it works pretty well. I'm just a homeowner and I baby it so it's been great for me. If I was a professional using it day in and day out the USB part would probably break off eventually.

If I had to do it again I'd buy the "Pro" phone model to get the higher resolution, but I'm not unhappy with my current one. It's just more useful than I thought and higher resolution would be nicer.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

this is an estimate I got to remove my shower/tub one piece surround and put in a walk-in shower. seems pretty reasonable based on a few other estimates I've gotten. thoughts?

the bottom part is additional if I want to do the schluter kerdi system (which seems to be the best) and a linear drain. Apparently it's 475 less with a standard, centered drain, even though that requires moving the drain from the right to the middle.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Inzombiac
Mar 19, 2007

PARTY ALL NIGHT

EAT BRAINS ALL DAY


So I bought a house two years ago and it has a nice, finished basement.

Problem is there's a smallish amount of water that comes in during heavy rain in the laundry and adjacent storage room.

It comes up from the ground, confirmed by taking out part of the wall and finding no moisture or mold.

Woke up today and there is some water coming in on the other side of the house (that has new carpet and some electronics.)

I'm kinda pissed that both the old owners and the inspector didn't mention this at all.

Aside from paying a shitload of money to get the foundation resealed, I don't know what more I could do. Yes, I've done all the normal mitigations.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Inzombiac posted:

Yes, I've done all the normal mitigations.

And what are those? Because to me that includes a perimeter drain and sumps.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000
Probation
Can't post for 3 days!
Ultra Carp
Yeah, without a perimeter drain merely sealing the basement is unlikely to hold forever.

Inzombiac
Mar 19, 2007

PARTY ALL NIGHT

EAT BRAINS ALL DAY


I meant the normal items like ensuring the gutters are clear, moving the drainage farther away, checking the grade near the house. Basically anything I can do with my extremely minimal experience.

I've filed a claim and am hoping they'll cover a drain and/or a pump.

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010

actionjackson posted:

this is an estimate I got to remove my shower/tub one piece surround and put in a walk-in shower. seems pretty reasonable based on a few other estimates I've gotten. thoughts?

the bottom part is additional if I want to do the schluter kerdi system (which seems to be the best) and a linear drain. Apparently it's 475 less with a standard, centered drain, even though that requires moving the drain from the right to the middle.



I personally would take this all day / seems reasonable, perhaps ask for referrals and contact them though. All of the bath renovators in my area are borderline scams where they

* Charge you $12k+ or more for the same work as above

* give you a sales pitch, eye you up and make a quote based on how much they can sucker you for

* will NOT provide line items as you have

* if you agree, the work is generally good and prompt

* once you install, they phish for google reviews by sending $100 prepaid visa CC's out AFTER you write a 5 star review.


There's at least two in my state that do that and the borderline scam seems to work.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

Inzombiac posted:

I meant the normal items like ensuring the gutters are clear, moving the drainage farther away, checking the grade near the house. Basically anything I can do with my extremely minimal experience.

I've filed a claim and am hoping they'll cover a drain and/or a pump.



Filed a claim with who?

So far this just sounds like owning a home with a basement to me. 2 years ago there wasn't water coming into the basement, the former owner didn't disclose that, nor did the inspector find it. Now there is water coming into the basement.

Things might be different if you bought the house 60 days ago or something. Inspectors are only good for point in time evaluations of what they can see.

Your homeowners policy probably doesn't cover this sort of water damage. I'd review my policy or call my agent before making a claim.

This one might be on you 100%, welcome to the joys of owning a home.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Home owners insurance very specifically covers items that are the result of a 'covered peril' and does not cover wear and tear or improper construction/construction defects, to my knowledge. Obviously it would depend on the exact policy language. I was surprised when I learned this but it makes sense, because otherwise everyone with a roof leak caused by wear over time would get a new roof through insurance. Or a basement leak caused by bad construction without perimeter drains.

I bought a condo not a SFH, but if I was buying an SFH I would research the poo poo out of what drainage was built with the property for avoiding a flooded basement, I know my parents' place has a whole sump setup and french drain for example.

Seems like you may now have a black mark on your CLUE report, does that happen even if a claim is rejected and they pay nothing?

Inner Light fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Jan 5, 2022

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Inner Light posted:

Seems like you may now have a black mark on your CLUE report, does that happen even if a claim is rejected and they pay nothing?

As far as I know, yep.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

falz posted:

I personally would take this all day / seems reasonable, perhaps ask for referrals and contact them though. All of the bath renovators in my area are borderline scams where they

* Charge you $12k+ or more for the same work as above

* give you a sales pitch, eye you up and make a quote based on how much they can sucker you for

* will NOT provide line items as you have

* if you agree, the work is generally good and prompt

* once you install, they phish for google reviews by sending $100 prepaid visa CC's out AFTER you write a 5 star review.


There's at least two in my state that do that and the borderline scam seems to work.

I've had a few other estimates, one was 8K just for labor, but that was not with the kerdi install, so it would be more like 9k in comparison with materials

big box wanted like 12k because lol. they do advertise a super fast completion time though, and their customers are probably dumbasses who don't get other bids

a few other places never got back to me because that's just how it is now unless you are rich and doing a mammoth project

they are CTEF certified for whatever that's worth, and have been very prompt and helpful. 4.9 average google review, A+ BBB rating

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



In previous homes my clothes dryer has been right next to an exterior wall so the vent length was a couple feet at most. In my current place it's on the second floor and vents some amount of up and out the side of the house with "net equivalent length" of 20ft. Based on my homes layout I believe it to be under that actual length but with a few bends in it.

What's the best way to clean it out? My dryer still works fine but I want to be proactive here in keeping efficiency up and fire hazards down.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

tangy yet delightful posted:

In previous homes my clothes dryer has been right next to an exterior wall so the vent length was a couple feet at most. In my current place it's on the second floor and vents some amount of up and out the side of the house with "net equivalent length" of 20ft. Based on my homes layout I believe it to be under that actual length but with a few bends in it.

What's the best way to clean it out? My dryer still works fine but I want to be proactive here in keeping efficiency up and fire hazards down.

They make brushes for exactly that: https://www.amazon.com/Holikme-Cleaning-Remover-Fireplace-Synthetic/dp/B07SQYX2FH

(not an endorsement of that particular one, just the first result)

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tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Motronic posted:

They make brushes for exactly that: https://www.amazon.com/Holikme-Cleaning-Remover-Fireplace-Synthetic/dp/B07SQYX2FH

(not an endorsement of that particular one, just the first result)

I will buy this exact one and then complain directly to you when it somehow kills me. (ghost posting)

I'm thinking after I use that brush to loosen things should I try and use a shop vac to suction the tube and hopefully pull a bunch of lint out that way too.

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