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Slow News Day posted:As a side note, I looked into building a climbing wall for myself in the backyard, but the holds seem extraordinarily expensive. It might convince me to try to craft my own. A little late on this, and my first time poking into this thread, but climbing Holds are drat expensive! My advice would be to sign up for a monthly subscription at escape climbing. Great company, great holds(both their own and their broader family of holds), and it stretches your $$ a lot further. Also can take advantage of their factory 2nds, which while still expensive, are cheaper than buying new ones.
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Dec 29, 2021 00:28
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I've had a lot of luck buying 2nd hand holds. Lots of people make home walls then never use them.
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Dec 30, 2021 16:13
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Happy new years to everyone! Quite a few of us set some goals last year and it's always fun to revisit them and set new ones. My 2021 goals were : Work on a hard to me lead route outdoor for the first time. Finding time with a belay partner made this hard. Did a pretty hard thing, but didn't put multiple session on a hard project unfortunately. Try my first multi-pitch and learn how not to die so I feel ok leading easy bolted multi-pitch in 2022 This did not happen unfortunately. Send a specific outdoor V5 which felt may be doable when the season ended Done! Sent the V5 and also 3 other V5s Hangboard 1x a week or more I did take mutiple breaks, but I think I did better than I actually planned to do with that one. Lead 1x a week or more I'd say I did for 2/3 of the year, but I've been stocked on bouldering lately so I followed that energy. Work core + pull-ups + push-ups at the end of at least 2/3 of my sessions Dropped that goal. I found better ways to train. Lose 10 to 15 pounds I'll take that one. Lost 15, then gained back some and went back to -10 and found it easy to keep it there while So out of 7 goals I'm only really disappointed with the outcome of 1. I'll count that as I massive success! 2022 New year new goals : Actively project a specific outdoor V7 Send my first outdoor V6. I have one in mind, but I'm not settled on the exact project I'll pick yet. Try every V4 in my local crag Follow structured programs for most of the off-season Practice falling up when lead climbing and get comfortable with it keep my weight around 160 KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Jan 2, 2022 |
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Jan 1, 2022 18:15
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KingColliwog posted:goals This is a good idea. My big goal for 2021 was to start sport climbing which I did, so that's rad. 2022 Goals
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Jan 1, 2022 20:08
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v10 escaped me again. But I sent more 9s last year than any previous year, and they were across a couple of different styles. I missed half the spring and the summer to a finger injury, and fall was really short this year, so I’m really happy with what I got. I think I figured out a good training pattern for myself since November, going to wring what I can out of it through the winter.
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Jan 1, 2022 20:39
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I had four goals for 2021: To project harder climbs. Managed a 7b+ and a couple of 7b after one to a couple of sessions each. I should've probably dialed up the difficulty but I still give myself a passning grade. One goal was to climb harder trad. I broke a foot in a ground fall in the early summer at the beginning of the trad season so I lost the psyche to go hard. Still got a week of trad in Bohuslän plus two weekends but stayed at an onsight/second go level. Give myself a failing grade. I had hoped for three separate week long climbing trips but only managed two. Fail. To up my lead solo grade. Managed a 7a (repeat) which was both scary and hard. Success but I have much to work on still. To summarize: 2/4 ish but good goals to have. 99 ticks on the tick list. For 2022: Authorized indoor rock climbing instructor. Level 2 trainer. To work and hopefully send the routes: Himlastegen 7a+ trad, Orup anti style 7b sport and Freaky Deaky direct 7bish sport. I believe they're all doable without becoming mega projects. In addition I want to find and work a 7c. 3 weeklong (or longer!) trips.
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Jan 2, 2022 16:05
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Anyone have a recommendation for a warm up routine to prep for climbing and hangboarding? I know there's a ton of info out there, but I'm struggling to find one that is comprehensive and detailed. I have always been bad at taking the time to warm up fully, and I'd like to fix that, but routines with directions like "5 minutes of theraband stretches" or "10 minutes of upper body mobility" are placing way too much trust in me, an idiot, to exercise correctly. I'm looking forward to climbing in 2022. I received an unexpected bonus at work, and that was the push I needed to sign up for a Lattice program. Hopefully I can finally break this 3 year plateau. Baronash fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Jan 2, 2022 |
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Jan 2, 2022 18:48
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At the gym or at home? 1-2 min of jumping jacks 10 reps of downward dog to plank to scap push-up and back to down dog (might do a few normal push-ups too) 10 arm spins around the elbow 5 sec half crimp at 25% intensity 5 sec open hand 25% intensity 10 reps 90-90 to hip thrust on both side 2-3 scap pull-ups 5 sec half crimp 50% 5 sec open hand 50% 10 reps yuri shoulder band warm up (do yourself a favor and google that, it's AMAZING) 5 scap pull ups 10 squat sky reach A few pull-ups 5 sec ~75% hangs Then if I'm at the gym I'll do about 10 minutes of very easy climbing focusing on mobility. Frogging hard, super high feet, heel hooking. Then two 5 sec bodyweight hangs (half crimp then open hand) I'll follow with one or two onsight level problems with holds similar to the thing I want to work on that day. I'll add some stuff if I feel tight or if something is hurting a bit, but that's my usual routine. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Jan 2, 2022 |
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Jan 2, 2022 19:36
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2021 was the year i got back into climbing after a 4 year hiatus due to knee and then baby. An old climbing friend from Pittsburgh visited me here in Eugene and we went to Smith Rock and I just knew i had to get back into it. The gym here is also way better than my gym back in Pittsburgh, has autobelays and better lead walls, so I've gotten to practice a ton more leading and made some cool gym pals. 2022 goals: Lead falling practice once a month ish in the gym Clean more lead routes in various ways (rappel, lower through the permas) Lead some tall climbs at Smith Rock (my head game was shot when we went there cause i hadn't climbed in years so I only TR'd and didn't even do super great at that) Babby's first multipitch - like ideally a 2-3 pitch 5.7 so i can focus entirely on the multipitch details and not on climbing
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Jan 3, 2022 01:00
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KingColliwog posted:At the gym or at home?  Thanks, this looks great. That shoulder band warm up is crazy, I watched a few videos and it doesn’t seem like a shoulder should be able to move that way.
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Jan 3, 2022 01:20
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i get my body temp up slightly and then just climb easy stuff. never found a use for any specific warm up protocols
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Jan 3, 2022 01:31
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Baronash posted:
Take a light band, you don't want much resistance at all. My shoulder was crunchy and gross before and it got so much better so fast once I started doing those regularly. The rest is just the routine I ended up with after a lot of experimentation. Those move for my body help make me loose and ready to try hard. I think you should experiment and add stuff if you feel like something needs attention and remove what is useless to you. Oh and I also do like 4-5. Bodyweight single leg deadlift. Forgot to type it.
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Jan 3, 2022 01:49
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Verviticus posted:i get my body temp up slightly and then just climb easy stuff. never found a use for any specific warm up protocols That has been my approach for a while, but, at least in my case, I feel like I've just been skirting injuries for years. Especially with my current gym, I hate their setting and don't find their easier problems to be particularly useful for warming up. I'm much more comfortable running through a routine rather than hoping I hit every muscle group and tendon while climbing easy problems.
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Jan 3, 2022 02:59
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I have a few goals which are not at all hard to do, but I just need to actually go ahead and do them. 1) Start bouldering outside. 2) Start top roping at all, maybe outside. Then some more goal goals. I have no idea how reasonable the grade goals are but hey, only one way to find out (all indoors): 3) Lose 10lbs, and then stay at that weight UNLESS I’m super making progress on weightlifting. 4) Get it so that I can reasonably expect to do most v5s after just a few attempts. I’m not really at this point with v4s yet so this will be a journey. 5) Do a single v6. This seems incredibly impossible to me right now but hey, might as well give it a shot. 6) Stick with a consistent weightlifting routine 3/week, physical therapy those days plus the ones I climb. Eventually it would be nice to be able to climb more often - right now 2-3 times a week seems to be about the cap for recovery time/I’ve been told I’ll get tendonitis, but it seems like that’s something I just have to wait and see on.
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Jan 3, 2022 17:56
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I don't remember what my goals were for last year and I can't be bothered to dig through my post history to find it  * This is more of a social goal than a climbing goal but I'd like to do more top rope/lead climbing. * Keep 10 pounds off for as much of the year as possible. I did this later in the year last year but put it all back on in the fall & winter. So I'm trying to start weight loss sooner so I can feel good in the summer time * Film more outdoor climbing. I quite enjoy the video editing process, but I don't really enjoy recording in the gym. * Become more consistent with V6's in my gym. In ~18 months I've only gotten 3. * Become even more consistent with the V5's. I can get a lot of them that my gym sets, but then there are others that just feel impossible. Namely the ones on the 40º wall  Unfortunately my gym tends to set 1 dyno in the V4/V5 range for most sets, which I absolutely don't want to do so it virtually means there's no new problem for me to work on that week.* Get better at recovery? I seem to have some real bad tennis elbow lately, and my left ring finger is still sensitive from my hardest project of last fall.
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Jan 3, 2022 18:03
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Is there a good way to take info for an area from mountain project for offline access? Like, for looking at the info on a phone while at the area
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Jan 13, 2022 22:41
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I know the MP app lets you "Download Areas" but I'm not sure how extensive the feature is; I've never really used it much. I would hope it just caches all the pages you'd see on the website, but 
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Jan 13, 2022 22:59
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That's basically what it does but i think you need to cache images separately within the app of you want them
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Jan 13, 2022 23:03
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You don't get images, or at least not all of them, but everything else is downloaded to the phone and you can look it up without internet access.
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Jan 14, 2022 00:20
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asur posted:You don't get images, or at least not all of them, but everything else is downloaded to the phone and you can look it up without internet access. There's a button to download images (at least on Android). Here's an example: 
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Jan 14, 2022 01:37
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Thanks! I didn't know there was an app, pretty straightforward
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Jan 14, 2022 03:31
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alnilam posted:Is there a good way to take info for an area from mountain project for offline access? You could have a three ring binder of MP printouts, like I saw a couple people with. Really thought it was odd, but hey, whatever works for you.
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Jan 14, 2022 15:26
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Happiness Commando posted:You could have a three ring binder of MP printouts, like I saw a couple people with. Really thought it was odd, but hey, whatever works for you. Just buy a guidebook in this case.
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Jan 14, 2022 17:14
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Yeah guidebooks are great, or I'm a big fan of physical printouts when going to real backcountry and there's no guidebook, but for a day trip to a place 45 minutes away i think saved data on a phone is fine
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Jan 14, 2022 18:12
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Unrelated but can someone help me out with all the weird climbing lingo for different ways of completing a climb? I know that to get it clean is to complete a route without weighting the rope - no falls, no on-rope rests / takes On-sight: first attempt clean with no beta? Redpoint: lead a route clean, not necessarily first attempt? Flash: ?? Same as on-sight maybe?
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Jan 14, 2022 18:30
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alnilam posted:Unrelated but can someone help me out with all the weird climbing lingo for different ways of completing a climb? Correct but flash is success on first try with advanced beta vs on-sight being without.
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Jan 14, 2022 18:35
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I'd tweak the redpoint definition a bit and say that they lead the route cleanly after having tried the route at least once or practiced sections of it before.
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Jan 14, 2022 19:29
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Redpoint is basically any first clean ascent other than if it was a flash or an on-sight.
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Jan 14, 2022 20:15
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New bouldering gym opened up not too far from me, with air conditioning (!). Seems really cool and chill, new facilities, full gym included with entry, hot food and beer for when you finish etc. It's good enough that my partner and some friends I've brought along have been motivated to go back, buy some shoes etc. I was always more into lead climbing than bouldering, but they're kinda different in terms of vibe too and I'm happy for the change.
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Jan 15, 2022 02:24
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I love the social aspect of bouldering. Just plop down and work out beta with people.
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Jan 15, 2022 03:32
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What I don't love - have had consistent soreness in my ring finger for a few months. Took a week, week and a half off at a few separate points and made sure to take it easy on crimps. Hasn't gotten better, hasn't gotten worse - until tonight. Was down climbing an easier problem at the end of my session ~2 hours ago and got quite a bit of pain in that exact region, now I've got a huge red welt there?  Doesn't really hurt to touch but I'm super paranoid about how it's going to feel tomorrow morning.... I'm not climbing for a while now, I think
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Jan 15, 2022 04:14
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A pulley or ligament injury doesn't usually involve a skin problem - so that welt is probably unrelated to an issue with the connective tissue in that finger. Your finger is definitely going to be more sensitive if you have stacked up a skin injury on top of a connective tissue injury though. It can take 4-6 months for a connective tissue problem to get past the 'hurts whenever I use it' phase. Any middle phalange problems I've had took longer to heal than an equally-severe problem closer to the palm. The black diamond plan has helped me get through a couple of bad injuries. In the remodeling phase, I use whatever grip irritates the injury the most - so instead of 2-finger open hand, I might use a 4 finger half crimp if the injury isn't bothered by an open hand position.
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Jan 15, 2022 05:18
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I think it might actually just be a blood blister or something. But it certainly freaked me out last night. And my arm felt extra pumped like I hadn't felt in a long time. Will take a look at that link though, thanks
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Jan 15, 2022 12:57
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Finally moved up a tape grade at the bouldering gym (sent my first red tape, which is a gym v5/6, so like an outdoor 3 lmao) but it feels good to achieve one of my goals for the last several months.
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Jan 18, 2022 06:55
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Mezzanon posted:Finally moved up a tape grade at the bouldering gym (sent my first red tape, which is a gym v5/6, so like an outdoor 3 lmao) but it feels good to achieve one of my goals for the last several months. That's nice man, be proud of that and don't diminish it! The more I climb outdoor and the less I think indoor is easier than outdoor except for may be up to v3. It's just drat different. Being able to make use of different beta/feet/technique outdoors means I climb pretty much the same grade in both. If I had better climate and more opportunities to climb outside, I'm pretty sure my outdoor grade would actually be higher than my indoor grade. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Jan 18, 2022 |
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Jan 18, 2022 17:44
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Head game is also a much bigger deal outdoors, to me at least. Definitely knocks a half or full grade off my ability for leading. Bouldering maybe less so, but it's still not the same environment as a gym and that's gonna mess with your head.
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Jan 18, 2022 18:58
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Bouldering, mostly with an abundance of pads, I feel pretty much as safe as I ever do in the gym. I've also climbed alone and with only 1 pad and that definitely feels compromising though. I imagine it only gets worse with a harness.
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Jan 18, 2022 19:24
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Yeah I mean gyms have wall to wall crash pads, it's pretty different than climbing over 1 pad and hoping you don't miss it, or putting the pad on uneven terrain. I dunno, definitely affects me a bit.
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Jan 18, 2022 19:43
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It's just what you are used to. I have a much worse time indoors because I don't climb indoors much. Other people bother me much more than bolt spacing or whatever.
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Jan 18, 2022 19:49
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alnilam posted:Yeah I mean gyms have wall to wall crash pads, it's pretty different than climbing over 1 pad and hoping you don't miss it, or putting the pad on uneven terrain. I dunno, definitely affects me a bit. Yeah put me on a high-ish top out and I'll gently caress that v0 exit since I,m getting scared and doubting myself. Bouldering outside still feela extremely dangerous to me. Even with an acceptable number of pads. I don't have ton of outdoor lead experience, but up to now my fear level was closer to indoor, but my only run out was on a jug ladder.
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Jan 18, 2022 19:50
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