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Martytoof posted:How quickly I went from not thinking about VLANs to wanting to segment my IoT and other dumb gadgets is pretty astonishing. Why should I segment this stuff on to a separate VLAN?
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Jan 7, 2022 17:51
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Martytoof posted:But thankfully the little 5 port gigabit switches UBNT sells are like fifty bucks so I can start swapping those out if I need to. CAD or USD? The Minis are really cheap and can do basic VLAN'ing which is nice. Hughmoris posted:Yeah, its a row of townhomes. Just going to take a stab at getting the best possible signal before I pay $100 for their tech to come out. Usually 192.168.100.1 or similar will pull up the cable modem page, and you can take a look. Residency Evil posted:Why should I segment this stuff on to a separate VLAN? They usually only need internet access / are lovely products rushed to market running whatever stock firmware came on the ESP8266/ESP32/etc, so isolating them from the rest of your network is generally good practice.
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Jan 7, 2022 18:08
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To wrap up the Townhome Tales: went back to the residence today. Didn't touch anything, and I was hitting 480 mb/s on wifi out of the 500 I'm paying for. I'm hoping it was just slow provisioning yesterday that led to the initial low speeds. Also, I found one of these in the rooms that was unplugged. Plugged it in and suddenly the outlet in another room started working. I've never seen one of these before, guessing its powering the red box amplifier posted earlier?  All in all, the issued Cox Panoramic modem/router seems to do everything I need to it to do. Sucks that its $13/mo but given how expensive a quality modem and router is now days, I might just roll with it for now.
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Jan 7, 2022 22:21
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Hughmoris posted:Also, I found one of these in the rooms that was unplugged. Plugged it in and suddenly the outlet in another room started working. I've never seen one of these before, guessing its powering the red box amplifier posted earlier? Yep that looks like a power supply that you'd use for one of those for sure. Looking at the earlier photo, it looks like each of leg of that splitter cuts the power in 1/4, with a slight gain potential from the amplifier with its +15dB forward for that frequency block, so maybe the idea is unity gain if you're serviced by some appliance in the complex. It attenuates a bit going back up but not by much. It could make sense if the connection is more reliable with it plugged in as the power level would be 4x higher than it was given the splitter, lowering the error rate or adding more viable channels for bonding. Upstream shouldn't have changed a ton unless the amplifier is somehow problematic unpowered but I doubt it. You did say you plugged this in after the WiFi test, maybe it was provisioning, firmware update on the device, FBI microwave beam scattering the WiFi, hard to say. I bet you could call or webchat the provider and ask them if they could see if the signal levels are looking good at your modem. If they start asking about other problems or issues you could just tell them you bought a new cable and wanted to make sure it was good or something, they don't really care and should be able to see how it looks from their end.
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Jan 7, 2022 22:36
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Residency Evil posted:Why should I segment this stuff on to a separate VLAN? Just a preference on my part. If it doesn't need to talk to my NAS or my laptops or my computers I'd actually really prefer it didn't. If I need to open up small holes I can do that with small, specific firewall rules. Like my smart TV is an example, or smart bulbs and plugs which are only meant to be controlled from a central gadget. If I can minimize the crosstalk then cool. I also like to know all my legit home things are on one IP range, my lab and infrastructure are on another so I don't have to guess if 10.0.0.58 is a smart switch or a tv or my macbook or whatever. That's not the best reason because you could do that with DNS and DHCP static leases but just another reason. movax posted:CAD or USD? The Minis are really cheap and can do basic VLAN'ing which is nice. I think I grabbed mine for 60 from amazon but now that I think about it maybe it was more in CAD. Not too bad, anyway, and if it's a question of paying $70 let's say for a nice VLAN capable, PoE powered, centrally managed 5-port switch, or another cheap whitebox amazon special desktop dumb switch -- I don't buy enough of those on a regular basis to say I'd take the savings. So the UDM-Pro arrived like 5 days early and I'm pretty excited. I logged in and played with it a bit. Seems much different than what I'm used to. I was going to just rip out the ER and put this in but I think I'm going to take a day to figure this poo poo out more before I do.
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Jan 7, 2022 22:49
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Partycat posted:Yep that looks like a power supply that you'd use for one of those for sure. Looking at the earlier photo, it looks like each of leg of that splitter cuts the power in 1/4, with a slight gain potential from the amplifier with its +15dB forward for that frequency block, so maybe the idea is unity gain if you're serviced by some appliance in the complex. It attenuates a bit going back up but not by much. Thanks for the info. That is a realm I know little about. At this point I have everything connected where I want it, and if the speeds stay up without drops than I'm going to call it good. Until I'm tempted by their GIGABLAST!!! package. I really don't need those speeds though... maybe I do.
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Jan 7, 2022 23:32
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I'm getting the networking done in my house for the first time. An electrician who did my EV charger will be doing it. Drops details are as below: Location / RJ-45 Sockets / Patch Panels Garage / 4 / 0 Outside Garage / 2 / 0 Outside Front Door / 2 / 0 Outside French Doors / 2 / 0 Outside Utility Room Door / 2 / 0 Outbuilding / 2 / 0 Bedroom / 4 / 0 My study / 8 / 0 Wife's study / 4 / 0 Linen Closet / 2 / 0 Living Room Window / 2 / 0 Living Room TV / 4 / 0 Utility Room / 0 / 2 x 24 The patch panels will be connectix ones that'll take these keystones in: https://www.connectixcablingsystems.com/cat6-modules-outlets/9503-cat6-utp-tool-less-keystone-module.html. He should be using CAT6, unshielded. The patch panels should be going into a data cabinet in the utility room. Data Cabinet: https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/329082-12u-550mm-deep-wall-cabinet. Any recommendations/best practices? Anything else I should get laid at the same time? Fibre? Coax? I'm in the UK, FYI.
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Jan 11, 2022 15:35
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Steakandchips posted:I'm getting the networking done in my house for the first time. The outbuilding going to be put through conduit in a trench? What's the total distance on that going to be? That would really be the only location I'd consider doing fiber to. Fiber generally handles dampness in a conduit better than copper in the long run.
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Jan 11, 2022 15:58
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n0tqu1tesane posted:The outbuilding going to be put through conduit in a trench? What's the total distance on that going to be? That would really be the only location I'd consider doing fiber to. Fiber generally handles dampness in a conduit better than copper in the long run. Also your house won't get electrocuted from lightning like the 8 bit guy
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Jan 11, 2022 16:20
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Bob Morales posted:Also your house won't get electrocuted from lightning like the 8 bit guy Yeah, that too. Although personally I've run into more moisture issues from copper in buried conduit than lightning issues, and considering they're in the UK, I'd say that's more of an issue than lightning that the 8 bit guy gets in Texas.
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Jan 11, 2022 16:24
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Steakandchips posted:I'm getting the networking done in my house for the first time. Curious how much that's running you / is a bunch of drywall tear out happening to make it happen? I have a few rooms where I've given up and am now planning to just run the Ethernet / fiber on the outside of the house instead of trying to find a path inside.
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Jan 11, 2022 17:44
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Yeah, that too. Although personally I've run into more moisture issues from copper in buried conduit than lightning issues, and considering they're in the UK, I'd say that's more of an issue than lightning that the 8 bit guy gets in Texas.
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Jan 11, 2022 18:37
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Steakandchips posted:
It'll probably be cost prohibitive to install raceways everywhere, but I would strongly suggest one from wherever your utilities come into your house to where you have your patch panels. Other places to consider (again working with American construction in mind) would be stub ups to attic (or down to crawlspace) on external walls that are getting outlets or just any wall the electrician has to open up to get the cables down. E: Future you just came to visit me from 2032 to tell me that they should have listened to me. CopperHound fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Jan 11, 2022 |
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Jan 11, 2022 18:56
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I've got a weird niche issue... some rats ate the coax at our condo basement and Xfinity can't replace the coax because they don't have a way to ground it, and another condo owner won't get back to us on routing cable through their carpentry, so there's been no way to get coax here for over a year. As a workaround, I noticed the next-door neighbor has one of those Xfinity routers that puts out a 5ghz hotspot. It's 25/5 and very stable and low latency which is fine for my needs. To join the hotspot you need to sign in with a web browser (so I can't join security cameras, etc), and it remembers the MAC address and caps out at 10 devices per account. That and they have to be right near the door to get reception. As a workaround, I flashed my Asus RT-AC68R/U router with "FreshTomato", spoofed the MAC of a device I previously joined, and got the router to rebroadcast the Xfinity hotspot as my own private SSID. It works extremely well, except that because Xfinity turned off 2.4ghz hotspots a few months back, the router needs to dedicate the 5ghz to receiving the hotspot signal, and uses 2.4ghz to broadcast it back out. I used to be able to stream games from my desktop to my laptop at 150mbps, but now I can barely manage 10mbps and it looks very compressed. I guess the easiest solution is "buy a second router and plug it into the LAN on the first router, so that I can have a 5ghz SSID instead". But before I spend the money, does anyone know if there is simply a router that has maybe multiple independent 5ghz radios, so that I can flash FreshTomato and have handle everything as a single device to keep things simpler?
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Jan 11, 2022 19:14
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Zero VGS posted:I've got a weird niche issue... some rats ate the coax at our condo basement and Xfinity can't replace the coax because they don't have a way to ground it, and another condo owner won't get back to us on routing cable through their carpentry, so there's been no way to get coax here for over a year. That sounds BS'y to me -- if it can get into your place at all, it can be grounded. Do you rent or own?
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Jan 11, 2022 19:24
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This isn't what you are asking for exactly, but I was using a Raspberry Pi4 to get internet off of a Comcast access point while I was waiting for an internet install at my current place. So that is an option if you happen to have one laying around already. The signal was pretty weak, so this metal bowl helped me direct it. 
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Jan 11, 2022 19:31
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n0tqu1tesane posted:The outbuilding going to be put through conduit in a trench? What's the total distance on that going to be? That would really be the only location I'd consider doing fiber to. Fiber generally handles dampness in a conduit better than copper in the long run. A very good point. I should have said that the outbuilding is attached to the house; you raised valid concerns, but distance and dampness isn't aren't going to be an issue. movax posted:Curious how much that's running you / is a bunch of drywall tear out happening to make it happen? I have a few rooms where I've given up and am now planning to just run the Ethernet / fiber on the outside of the house instead of trying to find a path inside. £1,500. Thought it was going to be £2,500, but just double checked his quotation pdf and it's £1,500. No drywall/plastered wall tearout, it'll be done through the attic area under the roof. It's a single story house (a bungalow). When it needs to drop down to the walls of a specific room, it'll be through the gap between the outer stone of the house and the inner plastered wall. He's very competent, he did a short run of 4 ethernet drops from the garage to the house for me when he was putting in the EV charger, and it was clean and well done. Couple of posters pointing out moisture concerns: the electrician has accounted for all that and is using the appropriate grade of cable and ducting and insulation for any of the (short) length of cable going outside (well, he's already done so for the short run he did for me before, that part is the only part that'll be outside and is already done nice and weathertight). CopperHound posted:I'm not familiar with common practices in uk, but one thing I don't see mentioned are conduits and pathways. No conduit, it's all through the attic area, dropping behind the plastered walls and then coming through into the RJ45 panels/hole to the patch panels. What's a raceway? What's a stub up?
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Jan 11, 2022 20:16
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Steakandchips posted:What's a raceway? A stub up is a conduit that goes from the outlet to just into the attic (as opposed to running conduit for the entire cable run). Some walls are completely hollow so it isn't hard to run another cable down, but external walls generally have a bunch of stuff in the way. If the electrician doesn't have to tear your walls open, I would not worry too much about it.
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Jan 11, 2022 20:29
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CopperHound posted:I used the wrong term. I meant raceway as a generic term for cable pathway, but it specifically refers to surface mount channels for holding cable. CopperHound posted:A stub up is a conduit that goes from the outlet to just into the attic (as opposed to running conduit for the entire cable run). Some walls are completely hollow so it isn't hard to run another cable down, but external walls generally have a bunch of stuff in the way. If the electrician doesn't have to tear your walls open, I would not worry too much about it. For the utility room, he may have to do a bit of conduit down, but it's the utility room, so that's fine. Conduit isn't pretty, but it's better than seeing bare wires.
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Jan 11, 2022 20:51
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movax posted:That sounds BS'y to me -- if it can get into your place at all, it can be grounded. Do you rent or own? Phone an electrician to do it for you, tell Xfinity the thing fixed itself and to turn your internet back on.
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Jan 11, 2022 20:53
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Steakandchips posted:Phone an electrician to do it for you, tell Xfinity the thing fixed itself and to turn your internet back on. Yeah but I'm not paying an electrician for something Xfinity should probably be doing. Anyway the wifi is 95% as good as a hard line... I just want to have the WLAN be on 5ghz instead of 2.4ghz is all. I toggled on "Afterburner" on the FreshTomato router, even though it says it only affects 802.11g (and my laptop uses 802.11n for 2.4ghz) my laptop is now stable when receiving a stream at 20mbps instead of 10mbps. So either that setting helped or something else changed that I'm not aware of.
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Jan 12, 2022 06:39
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Zero VGS posted:Yeah but I'm not paying an electrician for something Xfinity should probably be doing. Anyway the wifi is 95% as good as a hard line... I just want to have the WLAN be on 5ghz instead of 2.4ghz is all. It’s possible to do something weird/complicated like add another router connected to the Tomato router that receives the signal. Connect them via Ethernet cable. Turn off the 2.4ghz on the Tomato router and then use the newer router to serve the entire signal in both bands. But I concur - like you are still setting up something that would be easier fixed just by going to the original problem. Maybe try to find some XFinity technician and wine and dine them to get them to fix your problem. Invite them to move in and surely they will have the issue escalated.
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Jan 12, 2022 14:44
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Pre ninja edit: C/P of my post in the Homelabs thread, but more appropriate here! ——————————————/ DerekSmartymans posted:I stopped running a pihole and just pay >$3 month for NextDNS unlimited queries. In a house with 12 devices or so (including tablets, phones, and laptops for 3 along with streaming server and a desktop) always online I’ve been nothing but happy with not having to deal with configuration and replacing micro-SD cards on my RPi 0w! I’m a very basic Linux hobbyist, but I follow links/YouTube instructions gud!
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Jan 14, 2022 03:01
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So I've been looking for a good, non-Aquantia 10Gbit NIC because I hate the AQtion driver suite. I've been looking at X540-T2 Intel NICs but I know they're ancient even though they still have driver support (for now), but I'm leery about buying pulls of a potentially decade-old card that could get EOLed driver-wise any day now. Presuming my budget is $250, are there any options out there I'm overlooking? Dual-port RJ-45 would be nice but not required.
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Jan 14, 2022 07:22
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BIG HEADLINE posted:So I've been looking for a good, non-Aquantia 10Gbit NIC because I hate the AQtion driver suite. Used Chelsio maybe? Or do they not do copper?
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Jan 14, 2022 07:33
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I'd be shocked if the most popular server NIC of the last ~10 years has its driver support go anywhere, anytime soon. For reference, I was still sourcing PWLA8492MT PRO/1000 MT (PCI-X) cards for QNX 4 builds on PrescottP4s as recently as a year ago. Crunchy Black fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Jan 14, 2022 |
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Jan 14, 2022 15:09
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Intel has the best driver support across multiple operating systems in my experience. If you don't absolutely require CAT6 cabling and can go with an SFP+ setup (DAC or fiber/CAT6 transceiver) then the X520 cards seem to go for around $60 excluding transceivers or cables. Mellanox ConnectX-3 cards are also pretty well supported by mainstream operating systems and a bit less expensive than Intel X520, but are firmware based so you may have to flash the card to enable some features like SR-IOV.
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Jan 14, 2022 17:02
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I have ethernet throughout my apartment but it's a little janky, which I suspect is because of my ISP's router. I've looked at their guidance and it says that I can use my own but as it comes via cable I will need to use theirs in 'bridge mode' as well. In this situation will adding my own higher end router make a difference or will the connection still be affected by theirs? quote:Can I use my own router?
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Jan 14, 2022 22:05
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SamDabbers posted:Intel has the best driver support across multiple operating systems in my experience. If you don't absolutely require CAT6 cabling and can go with an SFP+ setup (DAC or fiber/CAT6 transceiver) then the X520 cards seem to go for around $60 excluding transceivers or cables. I wish we still lived in the days where I could buy a blue & white boxed full-warrantied Intel NIC instead of a server pull. If I do go the Intel route I'm definitely buying from someplace that advertises a valid Yottamark. Anyone done business with these guys? https://www.serversupply.com/products/part_search/query_parts.asp?q=X540-T2-DELL They're the only ones I've found advertising new X540s, albeit still with a 30 day warranty. I also just found this: https://www.cdw.com/product/proline-network-adapter-pcie-x8-10gb-ethernet-x-2/4432252?pfm=srh The company claims a lifetime warranty for all products of theirs bought through CDW, but that seems a bit of an upsell for a company that I've never heard of before. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Jan 14, 2022 |
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Jan 14, 2022 22:09
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I've been running my 10Gb connected machines with used OEM server pulls for years without issue. If this is for a homelab (or similar non-revenue-generating setup) then you'll very likely still come out ahead even if you buy a spare. If you want a new card with a warranty, then you'll have to pony up for it  Edit: Another option if you really want warranty coverage could be to buy a new third party card with the chipset you want on a credit card that extends the base warranty SamDabbers fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Jan 14, 2022 |
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Jan 14, 2022 23:06
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I just get these https://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-NC523SFP-Dual-Port-10GbE-593717-B21-593742-001-593715-001-PCIe-Server-Adapter-/142558268378
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Jan 14, 2022 23:12
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Azhais posted:I just get these What RJ-45 transceivers do you recommend? I've never used an SFP card before, and a DC goon offered me a free one of these they have.
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Jan 14, 2022 23:20
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Sri.Theo posted:I have ethernet throughout my apartment but it's a little janky, which I suspect is because of my ISP's router. I've looked at their guidance and it says that I can use my own but as it comes via cable I will need to use theirs in 'bridge mode' as well. If the jank (?) is because of poor quality hardware, bad firewall session handling, etc then it could improve assuming bridge mode takes all these things out of the equation. If it’s because of poor wiring or poor overall connection quality / congestion it won’t make a difference . If you can see poor speed , for example , you can bridge it and connect your computer directly . Restart everything and try a speed test. Otherwise I suppose more information on the trouble may help decide if there’s a problem , but other than some small overheating ISP devices or crappy ones (actiontec with Verizon for example) it shouldn’t matter much.
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Jan 14, 2022 23:22
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BIG HEADLINE posted:What RJ-45 transceivers do you recommend? I've got an sfp switch too, so most everything is just a standard sfp+ cable The one copper 10 gig I've got I just grabbed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FXBFZP8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_EK9A1XMF5P0PYA5KHGZ2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 And haven't had any complaints
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Jan 14, 2022 23:28
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I need about 8 POE+ ports + 1 uplink for a Raspberry Pi cluster. I generally like to use Unifi stuff but there is only a "Switch 8 PoE (150w)" that is fairly old and there isn't any available. There is a 16 port and 8 port "lite" switch but they have half the ports as POE. Any other suggestions? Should I just get a non-unifi switch? Any recommendations?
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Jan 15, 2022 00:18
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Partycat posted:If the jank (?) is because of poor quality hardware, bad firewall session handling, etc then it could improve assuming bridge mode takes all these things out of the equation. If it’s because of poor wiring or poor overall connection quality / congestion it won’t make a difference . It's not a speed issue, as I normally get circa 300 Mbits on wifi and about 800 on wired (supposed to be 1000 though) but when I use the wired connection the router sometimes stops connecting to the internet and requires a restart to get working. It's not the end of the world but is annoying when it happens once a week. Thanks for the tips, I might see if I can borrow a router and try it out for a while before spending the money.
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Jan 15, 2022 17:52
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Sri.Theo posted:It's not a speed issue, as I normally get circa 300 Mbits on wifi and about 800 on wired (supposed to be 1000 though) but when I use the wired connection the router sometimes stops connecting to the internet and requires a restart to get working. It's not the end of the world but is annoying when it happens once a week. If restarting just the router gets it working then yes bridging it to a more capable device may work. I'm a big fan of Mikrotik's devices as inexpensive standalone routers, the hEX and RB750Gv3 are cheap enough both to play with. I don't know if it will give you 1000Mbps throughput from WAN though. My current connection is 300/300 and it handles it perfectly without coming close to breaking a sweat. That being said I had profile up when I tested and today my provider let me get a gig down before shaping and it hit like 25% CPU.
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Jan 15, 2022 19:36
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I've got a Hex POE and it has no problem doing gigabit routing.
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Jan 15, 2022 20:30
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So I’ve got a pretty simple yet weird setup. I’m in a long apartment. I use 2 Time Capsules and an Airport Express. I would like to keep the Express for the purpose of pushing music, and it should be easy enough to throw on to any non-Apple network. One Time Capsule is a decade old and the HDD is going, I’m ready to toss it. However the one that replaced it is only about 4 and works great. However, it is based on decade-old tech. Right now I’m thinking of retaining New TC and Airport Express, while making a new router my primary WiFi AP. I would just use the Apple devices as Extenders. If that makes the most sense, wonderful. So the next step, what router? I have a preference towards Netgear historically. I currently have 300 or 400Mbps through Comcast and recognize that my Time Capsule is the primary limiter there. All the same, I wouldn’t mind having the opportunity to upgrade my service to maybe double that w the appropriate router. Tl;dr: is there a router that I should look at that can consistently push 700Mbps? And preferably Netgear. I’ve been reading reviews but also would love a reality check. Thank you! EDIT: Well, after looking at the options for Comcast, I bumped up my connection to 900Mbps and went and grabbed the Netgear Nighthawk RAX50. It was a decent deal and the reviews online showed great performance in the range I needed. The biggest speed bump was discovering my Time Capsule cannot act as an extender, although my Express can. With some soul searching, I may retire the TC or look into a bridging option with a different extender. But maybe go w/ a direct SSD connection to my laptop or via the router. At least the lesson I learned hasn't been too terrible! Boywhiz88 fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Jan 16, 2022 |
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Jan 15, 2022 21:10
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If I have a nanoHD and two AC Pros, is it worth upgrading to the Wifi 6 Pro or LR now? I have mostly new iPads, iPhones, and MacBook Pros that are wifi 6 compatible.
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Jan 16, 2022 18:37
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