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skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

Rythe posted:

Garage ceiling was leaking due to heavy rain, bunch of dry wall needs to get replaced along with some insulation. Went out on the roof and found a single that was cracked/worn out and not directing water in the right direction. I reset the shingle and the leak stopped so that's a positive so now I need to find a roofer/dry waller to get this all fixed up.

I have read that is not worth filing a insurance claim if the repair cost is $5k or less due to the potential of insurance cost raising. Is there any truth in this?

I’m someone that has posted against filing insurance claims for non catastrophic claims.

The answer is it depends. I have a 1% deductible (4K)so I’d handle this one on my own, but there’s a ton of variables in play. I’m capable of replacing the drywall and insulation myself.

One thing I’d think about is the current condition of the roof. If you do file a claim and they find the roof needs to be replaced they could not renew you if you don’t replace the roof. How old is the roof?

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Rythe
Jan 21, 2011

We have a $1k deductible and the roof is 15 years old. Thankfully I found out where the damaged shingle is, just no idea what it is going to take to fix that part. I have some good pictures and I was visible able to see the leaks coming in from the crawl space.

Hopefully I'll get a few roofers out today to take a look at it.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer

Rythe posted:

Hopefully I'll get a few roofers out today to take a look at it.

What's your secret? How many did you call?

extravadanza
Oct 19, 2007

Epitope posted:

What's your secret? How many did you call?

Probably just sacrificed one his kids to the Home Improvement Gods.

Expecting more than one of any tradesman in a single day? Wow!

Rythe
Jan 21, 2011

I only have one coming out today but 2 more this week to try and get this all figured out. At least there isn't much rain in the forecast so I don't have to worry about that as much.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



If it's a busted shingle, replacing it is a fairly straightforward process providing the existing shingles pass a brittle test (i.e. that you can bend the shingle above your repair at least 40-degrees back in order to reach the nailing strip / swing a hammer on the new shingle).

Be mindful that any roofers that you call that are willing to come out quickly are likely to style themselves as a "roof warranty company" that will tell you that, under absolutely no circumstances can your roof be repaired, and that you will need a whole new roof, any repair won't match, you have to let us tarp your roof immediately for at least $1000, who is your insurance company, we'll call in the claim, etc.

Resist the hard sell and SIGN NOTHING.

This trend of roofing (and siding, and gutter/soft metals) assholes has been on the ascendant for the past five years or so, and they have been the bane of my adjusting existence. Roofs are easily repairable, unless they are so old & so brittle that the shingles above the repair crack when you bend them. The problem is finding anyone competent to perform a simple repair for under $1000. They all swing for the fences.

Yes, it's anecdotal, but my roof was installed in 1987 and I replaced shingles on it until 2019 (a 20-year shingle!!!), when, following a windstorm that took off three tabs on two shingles, my existing kept cracking. I called in my second-ever claim and had the entire roof replaced.

If you are able to gain the roof without making GBS threads yourself (I no longer can) than replace the shingle yourself.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V48u9_tZepc

Inzombiac
Mar 19, 2007

PARTY ALL NIGHT

EAT BRAINS ALL DAY


I'm so happy to have a home inspector in the family. He did the initial inspection and was dead-on. After talking to my neighbors about the former owner, a lot of things came in to focus.
He was a huge party animal that also fancied himself a handyman but was extremely cheap and unskilled.

My inspector BIL and I did some more digging and have determined that the water seepage is because the seam between the foundation and the slab have come apart a bit. It's going to take some demo since the area is finished but it shouldn't be a big lift. Patching the seam is kinda easy. I still need to rip up a bunch of concrete slabs in the backyard to re-grade the area but a "permanent" solution is within my sight!

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Inzombiac posted:

I'm so happy to have a home inspector in the family. He did the initial inspection and was dead-on. After talking to my neighbors about the former owner, a lot of things came in to focus.
He was a huge party animal that also fancied himself a handyman but was extremely cheap and unskilled.

Did you buy a house from Gary too?

Rythe
Jan 21, 2011

From the three that came out the roof is looking crappy, I have water damage on the plywood roof that's visible and may account for the odd water spot on my kitchen ceiling. Tons of cracked and damage shingles and some with holes in them along with plenty that are peeling up and dried asphalt. I still have 4 more roofers coming this week to take a look too.

All three took a good 30+ minutes climbing all over the roof and going into every crawl space they could get to, pretty impressed with the attention to detail.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer
Now you're just rubbing it in :mad:

Inzombiac posted:

a "permanent" solution is within my sight!

M Bison: yes yes!

Inzombiac
Mar 19, 2007

PARTY ALL NIGHT

EAT BRAINS ALL DAY


Epitope posted:

M Bison: yes yes!

I'm taking this as both genuine and sarcastic because that is the homeowner's credo.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer
When I was an acolyte I looked for strong, sturdy structures that would stand the test of time. As I grew I learned that appearances are often deceiving and that strength can be weakness and stability may mean lack of agility. Now I can see the only permanence is impermanence, and at best of times we are simply floating in the stream of growth and decay.

nm
Jan 28, 2008

"I saw Minos the Space Judge holding a golden sceptre and passing sentence upon the Martians. There he presided, and around him the noble Space Prosecutors sought the firm justice of space law."

actionjackson posted:

wood.. in a bathroom? huh

I know this is heresy, but my parents house was built (not by my parents) with red oak (white would have been better) in the guest bathroom in the 60s. While this was a poor choice near the toilet because ammonia in urine, everywhere else, including by the bathtub is doing just fine. I'm just as surprised as anyone.
It isn't something I'd do, but 50 years with no warping, cracking, etc. Only discoloration due to accidental DIY fuming of the wood which apparently was pretty simple to replace when it was refinished this winter.
This house had more questionable bathroom flooring issues. The master had (cookie monster blue) shag carpeting in the bathroom when it was purchased. That has been replaced with tile.
I do think white oak might be ok in a bathroom as it is actually pretty good for outdoor furniture if the toilet area has some other flooring. I do wonder if something like redwood might not react as poorly to urine. But honestly, probably don't use wood.

nm fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Jan 17, 2022

fyallm
Feb 27, 2007



College Slice
Trying to figure out how much I can actually afford in a mortgage seem impossible. So many different 'ways' to calculate what I can actually afford and what I was pre-approved for.. how in the world am I suppose to figure this out? I've been living very well below my means for a long time and we are starting to look at custom homes and looking at a mortgage that is 4x what I am currently spending is making me reconsider even though I think I can swing it and be under all these different calculations

Rythe
Jan 21, 2011

For the most part to should be able to estimate your interest rate and use online calculators to figure out monthly payments and then add your insurance and property taxes to that amount guess you a pretty accurate estimate.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Epitope posted:

When I was an acolyte I looked for strong, sturdy structures that would stand the test of time. As I grew I learned that appearances are often deceiving and that strength can be weakness and stability may mean lack of agility. Now I can see the only permanence is impermanence, and at best of times we are simply floating in the stream of growth and decay.

New thread title.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000
Probation
Can't post for 3 days!
Ultra Carp

Epitope posted:

When I was an acolyte I looked for strong, sturdy structures that would stand the test of time. As I grew I learned that appearances are often deceiving and that strength can be weakness and stability may mean lack of agility. Now I can see the only permanence is impermanence, and at best of times we are simply floating in the stream of growth and decay.

:hai:

El Mero Mero
Oct 13, 2001

fyallm posted:

Trying to figure out how much I can actually afford in a mortgage seem impossible. So many different 'ways' to calculate what I can actually afford and what I was pre-approved for.. how in the world am I suppose to figure this out? I've been living very well below my means for a long time and we are starting to look at custom homes and looking at a mortgage that is 4x what I am currently spending is making me reconsider even though I think I can swing it and be under all these different calculations

The rent or buy calculators (Michael bluejay or New York times) do the best job of breaking out the line items you should consider imo.

The really big ones that people tend to forget are property taxes, insurance, and a maintenance fund.

The other side though is the really important one. Looking at your current income and understanding what range of monthly expense you are comfortable with incurring, given your income and other expenses is where you should start. Get that number squared up first and THEN approach the housing side.

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010

nm posted:

The solution is to just spend more money and have tile with underfloor heating.

gently caress it i hate every vinyl sheet possibility in the USA and am not fond of LVP in a bathroom.

Just ordered ditra heat stuff and I guess I'm doing tile..

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

The electrician quoted the full $3999 allowance to perform a service upgrade, update the mast to current code, and run a 50A 240V circuit into the basement.

I asked if it would make sense to make that a 100A line instead, and install a subpanel in the basement, and the electrician said that was a smart idea. Got the quote for that subpanel: $2000. I asked for a cost breakdown five days ago and silence.

I'm pretty sure $2000 is absurd for thicker wire and a subpanel. But given this is the only guy who would even agree to do the work (I've been looking since May 2021), and the first subcontractor with the HVAC company flat out refused to schedule a time to do the work, should I just pay the $6000?

Tyro
Nov 10, 2009
I had a dream last night that the PO had installed some kind of electric radiant heat system in the garage which I had somehow overlooked until now.

Hooray winter

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
There's a bit more involved in a sub panel, they'd probably (they better!) bring in an inspector to get a sticker on it. And grounding is a little more complex. It seems like a lot to me, but not completely outlandish either.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

FISHMANPET posted:

And grounding is a little more complex.

It's in the same building. Grounding is not at all complex: it uses the ground from the main panel.

Also, I may be reading the wrong but the original quote is for a 50A subpanel and service, the $2000 is on top of that to make that a 100A subpanel/service? Id' want line items. Because that doesn't make sense unless it's going to require a further main service upgrade.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
If the service upgrade includes a new panel I think the $4000 is reasonable. The additional $2000 for a new sub panel seems extreme though.

cruft
Oct 25, 2007

FISHMANPET posted:

There's a bit more involved in a sub panel, they'd probably (they better!) bring in an inspector to get a sticker on it. And grounding is a little more complex. It seems like a lot to me, but not completely outlandish either.

Awesome, thank you so much. I got the cost breakdown at the same time you posted this and it is about half labor. Given I really don't have any other options, and it's not astronomically outlandish, I'll go ahead.

e: the service upgrade includes a new panel.

ee:

Journeyman hours to install sub panel: 9 @ $65.00 = $585.00

Apprentice hours to install sub panel: 9 @ $35.00 = $315.00

Miscellaneous electrical material: 100 amp 12/24 space main lug panel, 2 pole 50 circuit breaker, four 2 pole 20 circuits breakers, 1 1/2" EMT, 1 1/2" EMT fittings, 1 1/2" EMT straps, 1 1/2" LBs, 1 1/2 rain tite fittings, 2 pole 100 amp breaker, four lengths of #4 conductor form panel to sub panel, anchor kit. 1 @ $1,100.00 = $1,100.00

cruft fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Jan 18, 2022

fyallm
Feb 27, 2007



College Slice

El Mero Mero posted:

The rent or buy calculators (Michael bluejay or New York times) do the best job of breaking out the line items you should consider imo.

The really big ones that people tend to forget are property taxes, insurance, and a maintenance fund.

The other side though is the really important one. Looking at your current income and understanding what range of monthly expense you are comfortable with incurring, given your income and other expenses is where you should start. Get that number squared up first and THEN approach the housing side.

Thanks. Just checked out bluejay and the maximum is so much higher than what I am considering but I still feel like what IM looking at is too high..

I inputed my info into paycheckcity.com and put in my max contributions of 401k and hsa and included taxes..

What % of the net take home pay per month would you consider to be the max or maybe the sweet spot for the mortgage payment? With all the modifications to the custom home I am looking at 35% of net take home pay will be going to my mortgage and that seems steep but is that usual? Like I said I've been living very well below my means for the last ~10 years

Inzombiac
Mar 19, 2007

PARTY ALL NIGHT

EAT BRAINS ALL DAY


Just wanted to share this video. This guy kicks rear end and now I'm looking in to aquaponics to go along with my rain garden.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T15gXm6ha_I

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
I don’t have a good place for storing lumber, spare pvc, etc. except for this shelf in the garage third bay which isn’t optimal for wood sag. Not going to put it all in the basement, that’s a pain in the rear end.



I received some free shelf brackets recently as well as generated offcuts from some treated 6x6 while working on the fence, so I built a much more suitable shelf on the opposite wall. Might paint it white at some point but for now, hell yeah more storage.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


fyallm posted:

Thanks. Just checked out bluejay and the maximum is so much higher than what I am considering but I still feel like what IM looking at is too high..

I inputed my info into paycheckcity.com and put in my max contributions of 401k and hsa and included taxes..

What % of the net take home pay per month would you consider to be the max or maybe the sweet spot for the mortgage payment? With all the modifications to the custom home I am looking at 35% of net take home pay will be going to my mortgage and that seems steep but is that usual? Like I said I've been living very well below my means for the last ~10 years
As somebody said upthread, don't just look at the mortgage payment. Add a budget for home insurance and property taxes, as well as a budget for home repairs.

The standard rule of thumb is the 28/36 rule. “The 28/36 rule simply states that a mortgage borrower/household should not use more than 28% of their gross monthly income toward housing expenses and no more than 36% of gross monthly income for all debt service, including housing,” However, there are areas where nobody can afford housing unless they break this rule.

Bear in mind that banks will be happy to lend you more money than you can comfortably pay back. I don't mean "can't pay at all", I mean "you'll be left with the bare minimum for all other expenses".

fyallm
Feb 27, 2007



College Slice

Arsenic Lupin posted:

As somebody said upthread, don't just look at the mortgage payment. Add a budget for home insurance and property taxes, as well as a budget for home repairs.

The standard rule of thumb is the 28/36 rule. “The 28/36 rule simply states that a mortgage borrower/household should not use more than 28% of their gross monthly income toward housing expenses and no more than 36% of gross monthly income for all debt service, including housing,” However, there are areas where nobody can afford housing unless they break this rule.

Bear in mind that banks will be happy to lend you more money than you can comfortably pay back. I don't mean "can't pay at all", I mean "you'll be left with the bare minimum for all other expenses".

Sorry when I say mortgage payment, most of the calculators include a spot for taxes and I am pulling that from county auditors site.

What's the reasoning most people say gross instead of net? It seems like these rules would make more sense on net instead of gross right?

gross seems like I can afford so much more instead of utilizing net.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


The general rule is somethign like 30% of your gross.. Honestly I'd do 30% of your take-home as to not be housepoor.. 35 is probably the upper limit as long as you're smart about it / already have yourself an emergency fund set up and some padding for poo poo.

Homeownership is expensive, Dont' forget the General advice is to factor in 1% of your homes value (not motgage) for repairs to your home each year. so if you're buying a 220k house plan on another 200 a month dumped into a savings account / budget line item called "money hole"

Yeah below.. technically Most banks will allow your debt to (gross) Income to be something like 40% with your mortgage taking up 33% which is stupid.. I lived that once.. never again.. 2 weeks of my takehome went to mortgage and utilities.. 2 weeks went to all the other bills.. it sucked.. I had zero dollars for anything.

tater_salad fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Jan 18, 2022

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Arsenic Lupin posted:

Bear in mind that banks will be happy to lend you more money than you can comfortably pay back. I don't mean "can't pay at all", I mean "you'll be left with the bare minimum for all other expenses".

Absolutely. Banks are apex financial predators and they WANT you to take out big mortgages, so you can give them the gravy of interest for decades to come. They don't care about how you get the money, they just tell you to make sure your get the money... or else.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

meatpimp posted:

Absolutely. Banks are apex financial predators and they WANT you to take out big mortgages, so you can give them the gravy of interest for decades to come. They don't care about how you get the money, they just tell you to make sure your get the money... or else.

.....or else they get to take the asset securing the loan back - the house - which is likely worth more than your outstanding mortgage balance. When they auction it off all they car about is that mortgage balance. Whatever is leftover goes to you, but there is really no motivation for them to maximize sale price so there will be little to nothing left over. If it doesn't' cover the outstanding balance and you live in a recourse loan state they will come after your other assets and/or garnish wages and tax returns (with interest) until the debt is clear.

FuzzySlippers
Feb 6, 2009

Any suggestions for low voltage under cabinet LED lighting that can color change? We're having our kitchen redone and the electrician just got back to me on the cost for it and he said $1400 (!) just for materials on the lighting which seems completely insane to me considering it's like a bit less than 20 ft of lighting. I'm finding a lot of random options at HD or online stuff that runs a couple hundred dollars at most.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

FuzzySlippers posted:

Any suggestions for low voltage under cabinet LED lighting that can color change? We're having our kitchen redone and the electrician just got back to me on the cost for it and he said $1400 (!) just for materials on the lighting which seems completely insane to me considering it's like a bit less than 20 ft of lighting. I'm finding a lot of random options at HD or online stuff that runs a couple hundred dollars at most.

Ask for line items to that cost. Maybe it's a few hundred bucks in parts, but it's going to be a major hassle to run power to a switch box. Maybe it's also a major hassle to properly install them in a professional manner on your cabinets.

In the end, the cost of parts is not a good indication of how much electrical work should cost.

Also, I could barely buy a dimmable color LED ballast I'd trust for permanent installation for "a couple hundred dollars". Certainly nothing I'd install for a customer and stake my reputation on.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

FuzzySlippers posted:

Any suggestions for low voltage under cabinet LED lighting that can color change? We're having our kitchen redone and the electrician just got back to me on the cost for it and he said $1400 (!) just for materials on the lighting which seems completely insane to me considering it's like a bit less than 20 ft of lighting. I'm finding a lot of random options at HD or online stuff that runs a couple hundred dollars at most.

When I built my current house I balked at the 1700 dollar under cabinet lighting option. I had them put 2 switched electrical outlets inside the upper cabinets, and just bought my own LED fixtures. The switched outlets were like 130 a piece and I maybe spent 100 bucks on the LED lights. I bought a mix of 18 and 24 inch GE led lights that are color selectable (2700, 4K, 5K), and have 3 different brightnesses. I leave them on full bright 5000K though. We leave them on 24/7 so the switch really wasn't even necessary but its nice to have.

falz
Jan 29, 2005

01100110 01100001 01101100 01111010
I've been using these, last house and kitchen remodel a year ago. They plug in but I have that hidden in cabinet above microwave.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0156X75N0

There's 5 total in this picture, warm white is nice and they remember their setting when turned off. I mounted their on/off switch just under the cabinet to the right of stove and it's fine.

They make extension wires so they're all on one switch, mine is also run behind and above the micro.

At my last house I had it on both sides of an alley kitchen by going up and through the attic and down.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

FuzzySlippers posted:

Any suggestions for low voltage under cabinet LED lighting that can color change? We're having our kitchen redone and the electrician just got back to me on the cost for it and he said $1400 (!) just for materials on the lighting which seems completely insane to me considering it's like a bit less than 20 ft of lighting. I'm finding a lot of random options at HD or online stuff that runs a couple hundred dollars at most.

I use Sylvania Lightify under cabinet strips in the kitchen we rebuilt in 2020. Existing line voltage was there, I just had to ensure correct drywall penetration sites for the wiring.

It was super tight to make work, but it absolutely does. I have it set to be at a daylight temperature during the day at 100% brightness and a cool, warm temperature in the evening at 1% brightness. Completely happy with it, and it cost me about $200 for 7 of the lights.

As with anything, price depends on how much you have others do.

FuzzySlippers
Feb 6, 2009

Motronic posted:

Ask for line items to that cost. Maybe it's a few hundred bucks in parts, but it's going to be a major hassle to run power to a switch box. Maybe it's also a major hassle to properly install them in a professional manner on your cabinets.

In the end, the cost of parts is not a good indication of how much electrical work should cost.

Also, I could barely buy a dimmable color LED ballast I'd trust for permanent installation for "a couple hundred dollars". Certainly nothing I'd install for a customer and stake my reputation on.

Naw that was *just* material costs. The labor was entirely different. That's why the no color change lights were $650 and the color change were $1400. Their labor costs have been reasonable so far but I just can't wrap my head around a small bit of lighting that expensive.

Also worth noting they have already run low voltage to all the spots needed for lighting this is just sorting out exactly what kind of lighting is going there. They had said previously they were going to get back to me on the cost of their lighting options and I was assuming it'd be a bit over big box but not to this degree.

FuzzySlippers fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Jan 19, 2022

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The Slack Lagoon
Jun 17, 2008



I have a gas oven on its way out, but I think I'd like to replace it with electric. I have 100a service - is that enough to do an electric oven? Other big power draws are a condensing heat pump dryer and a central ac.

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