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Shai-Hulud posted:Replaced the air quality sensor on my V70 II because the Vida Dice said its broken. Didn't notice it a the time but this caused the whole AC system to panic. Left side was only blowing warm air, right side only cold. No calibration or test was working. Unplugged the new sensor, everything works again. Guess i wont be having an air quality sensor then! I have known more than one Volvo where there was an error code for the air quality sensor, but with no apparent ill effect on the ventilation system. I think someone said it had something to do with the thing that selects outside/inside air (recirculate if the world smells bad or something), but gently caress if I know. E: quote for page break
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Nov 22, 2021 12:37
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I’m in the market for an errand car/kid transport vehicle and this is near me. Someone please tell me what a terrible idea this car is so I don’t buy it, because it really hits all my wishlist items (6 spd, AWD, wagon). 2006 V50, 239k miles
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Nov 24, 2021 06:56
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ionn posted:I have known more than one Volvo where there was an error code for the air quality sensor, but with no apparent ill effect on the ventilation system. I think someone said it had something to do with the thing that selects outside/inside air (recirculate if the world smells bad or something), but gently caress if I know. Yeah it sits in the cabin air intake and supposedly closes the ventilation to outside air when the air is bad and opens it back up when you manage to overtake the truck spewing diesel fumes at you and the air quality is back to normal. Its also slow and rarely does what it is supposed to if other people on the internet are to believed. But it was the only error message i had so i figured i'd replace it to be errorfree! Looks like you need to be lucky with the replacement sensor or buy an original Volvo one because otherwise you get an LIN Bus II error and the whole A/C System just stops working...
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Nov 24, 2021 14:54
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Solus M.D. posted:I’m in the market for an errand car/kid transport vehicle and this is near me. Someone please tell me what a terrible idea this car is so I don’t buy it, because it really hits all my wishlist items (6 spd, AWD, wagon). What’s their username.
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Nov 24, 2021 19:21
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Having my first problem with my 2015 V60CC (5CYL) that I bought in 2018, hopefully someone here can help. The rear side brake lights won’t turn off when I shut down and leave the car. The car is under CPO warranty and I have an appointment for maintenance in January 5, but in the meantime they just told me to disconnect the battery when not in use. That’s a lovely solution as I have to leave the doors unlocked and the car is parked on the street. Also, this battery is a pain in the rear end to be reconnecting, and I will be using the car through the weekend. I tried resetting the fuse for the brakes, it’s under the glove compartment, but that didn’t fix it. Any other ideas? The car had one of the rear brake lights replaced over a year ago by a body shop after I got rear-ended. It’s worked fine ever since. I’m not sure if that’s related. If it is, will that have an effect on my CPO warranty?
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Dec 29, 2021 17:33
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Arson Daily posted:My local volvo shop just quoted me 2600 bucks for a bank one catalytic converter for my XC90. thats a ton of loot obviously, and I know they're not ripping me off since IPD wants 2100 for the cat itself. Anyone do one of these? and is there a non sketchy place to maybe get a used one? Fingers crossed but I tried 2 cans of seafoam and it seems to have fixed whatever was causing the ecu to throw that catalyst code. Here's hoping it stays fixed!
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Dec 29, 2021 17:43
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Animal posted:Having my first problem with my 2015 V60CC (5CYL) that I bought in 2018, hopefully someone here can help. Is it the actual brighter brake light as if you're braking or the dimmer regular rear light that won't shut off?
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Dec 30, 2021 01:11
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Is it the actual brighter brake light as if you're braking or the dimmer regular rear light that won't shut off? It’s the parking lights. I’m an idiot. The car has a switch to keep them on. I was playing with my toddler in the car and she must have switched it on. I don’t know why you would wanna run those lights non-stop but there you go. Anyways I can say that this 6 year Volvo has been reliable and solid. No issues. Have the turbo 4 cylinders proved reliable over the years, or should I keep this 5 cylinder? Was considering a trade in for a new once now with these crazy used car values.
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Dec 30, 2021 01:15
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The VEA turbo 4 has had a lot of problems with bearings in the balance shaft assy going bad, I'm not sure if it has ever been resolved. Also something about the EGR, tho I'm fuzzy on the details there.
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Dec 30, 2021 18:00
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I have a 2008 XC90 and it was idling super low (under 1k), I couldn't get it to accelerate more than 5 to 10mph and the check engine light was on. I started by replacing the fuel filter, and I successfully drove it around the block. However, the check engine light is still on. Should I bring it to a shop now that I can drive it, or do I need to reset that notification somehow?
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Mar 8, 2022 19:11
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CELs are only able to be cleared by a code reader, so a shop of some kind will be needed unless you want to buy a laptop with the volvo software (VIDA) on it and the communication box (DICE). If by any bizarre stroke of coincidence you're in the portland area I'll reset the code for you, as I have said laptop. Otherwise someone's gonna charge you a token fee.Animal posted:It’s the parking lights. I’m an idiot. The car has a switch to keep them on. I was playing with my toddler in the car and she must have switched it on. I don’t know why you would wanna run those lights non-stop but there you go. I know this is from last year but they're called parking lights because in some places you're supposed to leave them on when you park your car. In Oregon if you park on the side of "a roadway" they must be left on. Nobody ever does it but it's the law. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Mar 10, 2022 |
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Mar 10, 2022 22:08
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LloydDobler posted:
Learned something new today!
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Mar 11, 2022 00:03
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I only know that because clear back in the 90's a boss of mine bought a european spec 240 mercedes and it actually had a selector for left, right, or both parking lights, because I guess in Germany when you park street side, only your street side lights have to be on so it saves battery for people parking a long time.
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Mar 11, 2022 22:38
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That's pretty cool! The rear fog lights on my V70R surprised me by only lighting the drivers side rear - where my 940 lights both. I thought something was broken, but the tail-light housing just has a conductive segment that is clipped to eliminate one light from the factory. Last time i replaced a bulb, I soldered the segment together so I could have both rear fogs, which is probably not legal in the EU but I don't think there are any regulations for rear fogs in North America?
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Mar 12, 2022 23:36
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I did some quick googling to refresh my understanding, which is that the single fog is a cost cutting measure, regulations only require one. And the 940 should have only had one as well, but people often do the easy modification to make it symmetrical. Also it's an easy modification specifically because while the regulations only specify one, it has to be on the driver's side. So both sides are able to be equipped and the one that's enabled is for the market it's in.
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Mar 15, 2022 19:04
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Got a friend with a dead 1999 Volvo V70 2.5T (which should be the B5254T engine). The bearing for the timing belt tensioner has disintegrated and it's just flopping around, not tensioning at all (which I would guess means the camshafts aren't turning). He says it ran just fine, he parked it, and when he tried to start it a couple hours later it just wouldn't fire up, sounding like it had no or very little compression. Seems odd that this would fail "while parked" and not at higher RPMs when he was driving it, but assuming what he says is true: What are the chances no valves or pistons are smashed to poo poo after a few seconds of cranking with no functioning timing belt? AFAIK it's an interference engine and a bunch of valves are certainly open, but is there any reasonable chance it could be "half open" enough to survive, especially if just cranking for a bit? Trying to determine if it is even worth the hassle of throwing a timing belt kit on it on the odd chance it survived, or if the engine is almost certainly gone in which case the car is junk.
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Mar 25, 2022 12:53
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Easiest way to tell for sure is to get one of the cheap USB endoscope cameras and look at the piston tops for fresh dings in the shape of a valve edge. They can plug right in to your phone. I have an older version of this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Inspection-DEPSTECH-Waterproof-Adjustable-Compatible/dp/B086DMM9DX/ref=sr_1_14 I have a hard time believing it's fine, but I've heard occasional stories where if it failed at idle or like you say, between startups that it can be reassembled and run again. But I kinda doubt it. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 14:58 on Mar 27, 2022 |
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Mar 27, 2022 14:53
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A mutual friend had apparently too much time on their hands, and put a new timing belt and tensioner+idler in it. It still of course wouldn't fire whatsoever, and a few days ago I went by to check it out. It's got zero compression on all five cylinders (doesn't even register on the gauge), so poo poo is remarkably hosed. The dude owning it said it made some weird noises when he cranked and it wouldn't start, and it seems to have been about to go for a while since the belt had wore a groove through the timing belt cover. I would have expected a couple of dead cylinders, but not all five, so I'm not entirely sure what's gone down. I guess it was cranking for a couple of turns with a camshaft like 90° off to make sure plenty of valves got a decent bend in them. I've only looked down through the spark plug holes with no obvious signs of carnage and part of me wants pull the head just to see what it looks like, but I will have no part in anything that might be an attempt at fixing it. The car is junk, which is not the end of the world as it has like 400000km on it and is showing its age pretty much everywhere. The owner is stupidly cheap though and doesn't feel he's gotten enough milage yet out of some other parts he threw at it during the last couple of years.
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Apr 15, 2022 22:27
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With 0 compression on all 5, he has a lot of bent valves. New motors for that should be relatively plentiful and won't break the bank, my dad just got the identical engine here for something like $400. Put the new timing kit on the new engine and send it.
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Apr 16, 2022 03:14
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LloydDobler posted:New motors for that should be relatively plentiful and won't break the bank Well, for the older 850/V70, the turbo cars are the only ones car nerds (able to change an engine) generally care about, and since enough people care about them and they still need engines the B5254T is a little bit more pricey here. They start at like $600 for a >300000km one in unspecified shape, and quickly go up in price. So even a $600 engine + $100 (at least) of random parts + all the work to put it in would turn it into an $8-900 car. Had the rest of the car been less crusty it might be a worthwhile venture, but he can get the same vehicle in much better shape and without the turbo he doesn't particularly want/need/deserve for not much more (and the corpse is worth a couple hundred as it sits, it has a functioning automatic transmission). And that's assuming me and that other guy spend a lot of time putting it in for free, which neither of us really feel like. I might be digging my own grave here, but how different can the new engine be and still fit (without having to change the ECU or too much other stuff with it)? The B5224T seems to be the exact same displacement and specs and is maybe easier to find with a bit less mileage. I don't know if that's when they changed to electronic throttle, but if so I guess one can swap some parts over (and I think even this one already has an electronic throttle). Also not sure if the engine from the AWD is somehow different (oil pan and such, I don't know why it have to be with an already FWD layout but who knows) or if that could fit the bill.
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Apr 16, 2022 08:54
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AWD engine is identical. The angle drive hangs off the transmission behind the engine. The downpipe is a little different but that doesn't affect the friend. As a 99 it should already have electronic throttle unless you're in one of those areas that registers by sale date and not build date. If it's electronic throttle then it also has variable cam timing on the exhaust cam and would need to have that along with it. 98/99 is the cutoff for electronic throttle and variable exhaust timing, the engines from 99 all the way up to 04 are identical enough to work I believe. And yeah it's the same spec engine as in the XC's which are the most common engine, I think that's what you're referring to. Most any turbo engine will work, the NA will not. Even if the car is older and has cable throttle, you can use the newer motors and disable the variable cam timing by simply not hooking up the solenoid I believe. You have to leave it mechanically assembled as it covers oil ports. Or you can ignore all this and stop helping your friend so you don't get roped in to a project. I wouldn't blame you.
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Apr 19, 2022 02:08
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I think for our entertainment you should get heavily involved in this and document it all.
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Apr 19, 2022 16:16
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Jesus loving christ. I'm trying to replace the PCV system on my P26 V70 bi-fuel and its the worst loving thing. You have to take of the intake manifold for that and you cant reach a single loving bolt easily. Every single on of them is around some corner, behind something or entirely invisible. I had to take off the thermostat housing to get to one bolt and i made the mistake of opening it because i though that would be enough to get to the bolt. Now the gasket that goes between both halves of the housing is hosed and you cant get a loving new one. Theres not even a parts number for it. You are supposed to buy a complete new housing including the gasket! Did ya want to change the thermostat but not the entire housing? Well gently caress you! You don't get to do that! And because its the bi-fuel version theres gas lines in the way loving everywhere. So after wasting an entire saturday on this thing the only thing that changed is that its now leaking coolant cause of the hosed gasket and the intake manifold is still firmly attached because theres a secret hidden bolt that i can neither see nor get to because there are pressure regulators and distributors and poo poo like that for the natural gas system in the way. God im mad about this car right now...and i still have to fix it...
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May 9, 2022 12:52
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Is it the rectangular gasket with a divider inside making two square passages? Because I think you can get that one separately from third party.
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May 9, 2022 14:45
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Yeah I can get that one no problem. There's another one between the two halves of the thermostat housing. Looks like this:  As far as I can tell you can't get that one anywhere. I cut one out of an old bike inner tube right now to get the car going temporarily.
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May 9, 2022 17:23
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Ah, between the "neck" and the housing right? Yeah, I don't know what's up with that but it seems unavailable. Shai-Hulud posted:And because its the bi-fuel version theres gas lines in the way loving everywhere. Also yes, this is why I don't touch the LNG Bi-Fuel Volvos. How long until the gas tanks are no-go on yours?
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May 9, 2022 19:14
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Got a year of life left in them. Not sure what I'll do when they run out. The car is in great shape otherwise so it would be a shame to get rid of it because of that.
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May 9, 2022 20:38
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Welp, looks like the TÜV guy didn't care about the age of my CNG tanks and just certified them for another two years. And here i was ready to panic!
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May 18, 2022 08:18
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yeah in 2004 Volvo decided that the thermostat needed to be an assembly, probably to have it clear some optional component on some optional engine. So you can't buy any of the parts individually, it comes with the housing, pre-installed thermostat (non standard and non replaceable of course) and temp sensor all in one. Over $100 every time.
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May 18, 2022 22:08
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Hello friends, do you think this would be too high mileage for a V50? I’m not super familiar with them other than hearing they eat struts and CV joints, and that the sunroof drains often degrade and leak. https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/bellingham-2006-volvo-v50-t5-speed/7484986416.html
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May 19, 2022 19:09
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blk posted:Hello friends, do you think this would be too high mileage for a V50? I’m not super familiar with them other than hearing they eat struts and CV joints, and that the sunroof drains often degrade and leak. 145k doesn’t scare me, my mom put more than that on the same engine in a different model. The stick honestly has me tempted if you aren’t going to do it yourself.
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May 19, 2022 19:53
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The 6 speed is reeeally nice in those. That is fairly rare and the most desired model of V50 so jump on it fast if you're going to. They can be expensive to maintain, and you need to watch the accessory belts (get down there and look for cracks, dryness or other signs of aging) and the cooling system like a hawk, if you get a coolant leak and dump a lot while on the highway, the time from "hey I have a coolant leak" to "hey I have a blown head gasket" is measured in seconds, not minutes. And it is not forgiving. And there is no warning light, you have to watch the temperature gauge. I suggest replacing all the cooling hoses, with silicone where possible, and replacing the coolant reservoir preventatively. I did on ours. My daughter has an 05 with about 130k miles on it and she loves it. After I did stage 0 and changed all the fluids and cooling components, I don't expect to do much to it except replace it in a few years. We did have the sunroof leak issue, and it wasn't hard to fix for an experienced car toucher. A novice might have some trouble. Also you have to pull the carpet and dry it out, the underside foam soaks up the water and it doesn't come out in the car.
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May 19, 2022 22:06
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I posted my R in the marketplace thread if anyone wants a fully sorted 2007 S60R.
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May 25, 2022 17:01
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toplitzin posted:I posted my R in the marketplace thread if anyone wants a fully sorted 2007 S60R. Man what an awesome car. I am tempted, wish it were a wagon though! I hope it goes to good home what a cool rear end car
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May 27, 2022 18:23
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TheBacon posted:Man what an awesome car. I am tempted, wish it were a wagon though! I hope it goes to good home what a cool rear end car It's going to the dealer trade in lot in about 30 minutes, feel free to think on the OBO portion 
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May 27, 2022 18:33
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Welp, my old faithful C70 gave me its first real issue after 15 years of ownership. Sure, I've had parts wear out and I've replaced headlights and such, but I don't think it's ever left me stranded. Even when the battery died I was able to just pop start it because it's a manual. But tonight I got hit with the very common ignition cylinder lockup. It was able to unlock the steering wheel but not turn past position 1. Luckily it's only 5 screws to get the ignition switch off and just turn it manually, as long as the wheel isn't locked and the key is in the ignition so the antenna ring detects it. So I borrowed some torx drivers from my friend whose house I was leaving, and I got it started and drove home. Not a bad run really. Now to get in there and see if I have to spend a few hundred to replace the cylinder or if I can just get it apart and lube it or remove the steering lock. Fortunately I've replaced it before so the security bolts are already dremeled with slots in them. I might have even just used cap screws, I'll see tomorrow.
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Jun 1, 2022 07:55
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My XC90 is doing that intermittently where you can't turn the key at all. Will it get worse? Is there a guide to fixing it?
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Jun 1, 2022 18:06
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Yeah plenty of guides on youtube and forums. It can either be the key cylinder itself, or the steering lock mechanism wearing out to a point where it jams. i'm gonna see about just removing it, I don't give a poo poo if my steering locks. And at least for my car, the housing is discontinued. I can buy the key cylinder I think but not the overall mechanism anymore. Great.
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Jun 1, 2022 18:24
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I've finally damaged one of those hard-to-find rims on my platinum 850. It was only a matter of time living in the land of potholes, so I guess it's comforting that it took 10 years or however long it's been. I'm looking at fitting a bit more rubber on the car, maybe going down to 15" wheels, and I'm wondering if you guys have any suggestions or recommendations on brands, places to look, etc. I've been looking around and it's not easy to find something that doesn't scream "I'M A RACE CAR". One of the better options I've found so far is this: (just pretend they're on a silver-white brick instead) rarbatrol fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Jun 25, 2022 |
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Jun 25, 2022 19:58
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My 2016 S60 with 60k miles had a failed oil cooler that is going to cost me 6k in repairs. With the way the market is I'm just going forward with it. But gently caress man, an oil cooler failure at 60k is bullshit. Basically the failure mixed oil in the cooling system and caused it to overheat. Couldn't get the god thing off the road fast enough safely.
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Jul 26, 2022 04:41
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Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.
