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MasterSlowPoke posted:The problem with Mortarion is that stupid Scythe. It's just not something that can realistically be used as a weapon. To be fair the idea of scythe-as-weapon is something that really only makes sense in our imaginations. Scythes are just spears with the blade pointing the wrong way, they make no sense unless they're incredibly long compared to the person wielding them.
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Oct 18, 2014 17:35
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Direwolf posted:To be fair the idea of scythe-as-weapon is something that really only makes sense in our imaginations. Scythes are just spears with the blade pointing the wrong way, they make no sense unless they're incredibly long compared to the person wielding them. People have historically used scythes as weapons, but usually more in the context of "rebelling / conscripted farmers fighting with whatever was available" more than "rarr I'm a necromancer." That and generally the blade was re-attached along the weapon's length instead of perpendicular so you could actually use it, so you really just end up with a funky-looking halberd. Tuxedo Catfish fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Oct 18, 2014 |
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Oct 18, 2014 17:56
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thespaceinvader posted:The legs look great but kinda derpy from the back. It needs not to be a solid shoulder-plate-shaped armour panel where the sculpted brown joint is. Should be segmented or that concertina stuff int he back of the knees. You are right, that would never work, thanks. I think I'm keeping the mask as it looks pretty good in person, but I'm going to detail the rim.
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Oct 18, 2014 18:05
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Tuxedo Catfish posted:That and generally the blade was re-attached along the weapon's length instead of perpendicular so you could actually use it, so you really just end up with a funky-looking halberd. This is what Necron warscythes look like, incidentally, but Forge World decided to insist on a giant harvester's scythe.
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Oct 18, 2014 18:15
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Anyone have any experience with an Iwata HP-M1? It is single action, but the marked and easily adjustable dial on the back seems as though it is more like a 1.5 action. The thing that interests me most about it is that it seems easy to clean and doesn't have any o-rings in the airbrush itself. The price is pretty reasonable too. Also, is there a .18ish sized airbrush that isn't hilariously expensive?
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Oct 18, 2014 19:25
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There's nothing wrong with this color scheme, right?
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Oct 18, 2014 19:46
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Looks great to me.
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Oct 18, 2014 20:04
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Probably my favourite of all the Primarchs to paint so far. Once I got onto the gold I couldn't put this down.       
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Oct 18, 2014 20:11
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serious gaylord posted:Probably my favourite of all the Primarchs to paint so far. Once I got onto the gold I couldn't put this down. Badass, dude. The armor is beautiful, and your base looks perfect. My only criticism would be that the head looks like you forgot to paint it, but that isn't on you - it's GW's goofy decision to make the Salamanders "jet black." Personally, I'd just do an actual black human skintone, and say screw GW.
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Oct 18, 2014 21:04
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It shows that he's been your favorite to paint so far - Vulkan looks baller.
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Oct 18, 2014 22:03
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MasterSlowPoke posted:The problem with Mortarion is that stupid Scythe. It's just not something that can realistically be used as a weapon. The scythe itself AND the stance he is forced to take to look like he's using it ruin the model for me. Would have been way better using lantern (his special gun) with the scythe perhaps at his back or held to the side. I don't think the CSM Typhus model looks bad, but that hunched over stance just ruins Mortarion.
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Oct 18, 2014 22:17
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Today was the day that I finally learned that Vellejo paints are better than Citadel. They're cheaper by about 70 cents and you get almost 50% more paint out of them. If only I had learned this sooner!
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Oct 19, 2014 03:24
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Definitely not at the level of many around here, but I have a paint scheme for a new dark eldar army: I don't know what to do with the basing on these guys; I'm debating going the resin bases route, but being indecisive. I rather like the Field of Screams from Secret Weapon, but it may be overkill both on the orange and the number of pumpkins. Whee. Only took about 90 minutes or less, though, which is a plus!
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Oct 19, 2014 05:02
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overthefalls posted:Definitely not at the level of many around here, but I have a paint scheme for a new dark eldar army: That's insanely similar to the color scheme I'm going with, style is a little different though. Looks good man!
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Oct 19, 2014 05:05
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overthefalls posted:Definitely not at the level of many around here, but I have a paint scheme for a new dark eldar army: You could make them alien-green pumpkins, or purple ones 
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Oct 19, 2014 05:13
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That scheme kicks rear end.
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Oct 19, 2014 05:16
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overthefalls posted:Definitely not at the level of many around here, but I have a paint scheme for a new dark eldar army: Looks great! It's a tasteful amount of green highlighting that doesn't disrupt the orange/grey thing that I enjoy.
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Oct 19, 2014 05:36
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serious gaylord posted:Probably my favourite of all the Primarchs to paint so far. Once I got onto the gold I couldn't put this down. Simply amazing, especially the gold
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Oct 19, 2014 07:33
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Star Man posted:Today was the day that I finally learned that Vellejo paints are better than Citadel. They're cheaper by about 70 cents and you get almost 50% more paint out of them. If only I had learned this sooner! Wait until you make your own washes!
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Oct 19, 2014 08:52
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Holy poo poo gaylord, that looks great.
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Oct 19, 2014 08:59
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Hey, painting and modelling goons. As part of an unrelated project, I'm going to have 20 to 50 of these going spare - 3mm diameter close-wound springs, which come in a loop. Unlooped, just under 30cm long. If anyone's interested in them I'd be pleased to let them go for a small consideration (at the very least, postage and packing, but if you're willing to give some money for them that would be nice too). Shoot me a PM if you're interested =)
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Oct 19, 2014 13:00
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So my primary Citadel colour has turned itself into a chunky paste, does anyone have any suggestions on how to liquefy it back into something usable again? Adding water doesn't seem to do much as it refuses to blend together properly. Or I might just need to get a better blending tool than a toothpick to really get going with the stirring.
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Oct 19, 2014 13:36
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Cooked Auto posted:So my primary Citadel colour has turned itself into a chunky paste, does anyone have any suggestions on how to liquefy it back into something usable again? Adding water doesn't seem to do much as it refuses to blend together properly. Or I might just need to get a better blending tool than a toothpick to really get going with the stirring. I used some Lifecolor acrylic paint thinner I had on hand to return a 3 month old pot of Ceramite White back to a usable state, maybe 5ml or so. Blended in ok, but still needs a drat good shake every time I go back to it, and eventually another thinner top up. Oh, and worked likewise for a 4 month old pot of Sycorax Bronze that had turned to a solid jelly like state as well. NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 14:00 on Oct 19, 2014 |
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Oct 19, 2014 13:54
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Anyone know of a non-GW paint that closely resembles the old Rotting Flesh?
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Oct 19, 2014 17:08
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GW says the replacement is Nurgling Flesh, but that's much more green. The Vallejo equivalent is Dead Flesh, and google says it's a close match:  It's a tiny bit more green-yellow, but not so much that you'd notice unless both were on the same model.
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Oct 19, 2014 17:32
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I remember someone saying that with Reaper dropper bottles, it's best to trim out a part of the inside so it doesn't clog up. Anyone recall what that was about?
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Oct 19, 2014 18:42
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Slimnoid posted:I remember someone saying that with Reaper dropper bottles, it's best to trim out a part of the inside so it doesn't clog up. Anyone recall what that was about? If I recall correctly, someone said there's a catch at the bottom of the dropper assembly to stop the agitator from clogging the bottle, and it becomes a great place for the paint itself to clog the bottle. I just shove a piece of brass rod down the dropper to break the whole assembly and my bottles work great.
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Oct 19, 2014 18:57
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Slimnoid posted:I remember someone saying that with Reaper dropper bottles, it's best to trim out a part of the inside so it doesn't clog up. Anyone recall what that was about? There's a little plastic "thing" near the nozzle, I have no idea what it is for but it seems to make the inside of the dropper nozzle clog up basically after every paint session. I used my pin vise to just drill a hole right through it instead of cutting it out.
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Oct 19, 2014 18:58
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Pacheeco posted:There's a little plastic "thing" near the nozzle, I have no idea what it is for but it seems to make the inside of the dropper nozzle clog up basically after every paint session. I used my pin vise to just drill a hole right through it instead of cutting it out. People also reported success just forcing it in with a pin.
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Oct 19, 2014 19:04
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 Finally got around to finishing my test scheme Eldar model after having it sit on my desk for 4 months. First time trying to paint gemstones didn't go exactly as planned; mixing black with orange makes blending more difficult than I expected. Should I try mixing with dark brown instead? After looking at some Wraithknights I think I might have gone overboard on the number gemstones anyways. I hit each stone with 2 coats of Future but apparently that isn't glossy enough; I might have to break out the Minitaire Gloss instead. Pacheeco fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Oct 19, 2014 |
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Oct 19, 2014 21:54
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Current work in progress:
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Oct 20, 2014 03:06
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MasterSlowPoke posted:GW says the replacement is Nurgling Flesh, but that's much more green. Thanks, Broski.
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Oct 20, 2014 04:50
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HardCoil posted:Warp Talon conversion I'm working on for my kill team, as the stock mini seems a bit silly to me: The blank face mask is great and you achieved what you were going for. I too feel like the Warp Talons try too hard to be scary and end up looking like a Halloween costume. The waist is very very skinny, though. It could be shortened a bit or bulked out.
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Oct 20, 2014 11:34
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I kind of like how skinny it is. Adds a bit of inhumanity to the model. Subtle.
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Oct 20, 2014 12:42
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serious gaylord posted:I kind of like how skinny it is. Adds a bit of inhumanity to the model. Subtle. Agreed. It reminds me of the old X-Com enemies Chryssalids (in a good way).
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Oct 20, 2014 12:47
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Quick question time. I've brought a fully painted/assembled army, which has been fully based on sarissa precision (MDF) bases. I'd like to magnetize it though, so does anyone have any ideas on the best way to do this? Previously I've done this by drilling holes straight through the base + movement tray, and then mounted magnets in them, but with the models already glued and fairly nicely based already, I'm thinking that's not really possible. Any ideas on how to proceed? I was thinking putting the model in a vice and very carefully drilling a hole in, but can see myself easily going straight through the model.
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Oct 20, 2014 13:52
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Natrapx posted:Quick question time. I've brought a fully painted/assembled army, which has been fully based on sarissa precision (MDF) bases. I'd like to magnetize it though, so does anyone have any ideas on the best way to do this? Have you considered using sheets of the stuff they make fridge magnets out of? You can cut it into base sized circles and glue it to the bottom.
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Oct 20, 2014 14:10
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NTRabbit posted:Have you considered using sheets of the stuff they make fridge magnets out of? You can cut it into base sized circles and glue it to the bottom. You can buy adhesive backed magnetic sheet from Ebay or Amazon - look for .020" thickness. Anything less won't be enough to do you any good. Alternatively, for more money, but for less work and waste, you can get pre cut base bottoms from Litko. 100 25mm rounds will run you $17. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Oct 20, 2014 |
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Oct 20, 2014 15:00
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Anyone have any experience with "dry transfers?" I have only ever used the water slide GW transfers but the entire concept of dry transfers seems waaaay better and easier to use. I'm specifically looking to get some number transfers small enough to use for Infinity and a friend suggested I look into dry transfers but I can't seem to actually find real reviews from people using them and comparing them to the wet ones.
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Oct 20, 2014 16:25
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They're actually harder to use than wet transfers in my experience. The problem is that you only get one shot at getting it right, but with water-slide transfers you can fuss with it until it's perfect. If you're trying to line up letters for a word, forget it. Check out some guides, and look into setting solution. I sparingly use non-acetone nail-polish remover, but they actually make stuff specifically for modelers. Another big help is to gently use a tissue corner to pull the water off the decal after it's placed.
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