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gently caress yeah I got the first pitch done and got halfway through the second (which is somewhat easier). crux pitches are gonna be a hoot, though...
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Mar 26, 2024 20:49
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M. Night Skymall posted:The easiest moonboard climb is best described as very hard, but the kilter and grasshopper can be adjusted to be fairly beginner friendly. Even then I have a hard time getting any of my beginner friends on them, gym climbs are usually more fun. Good for you for you getting into it though, I recently had to listen to a bunch of parents scream at my daughter's coaches about safety while simultaneously being unable to come up with the word for "belay" and I really wish other parents would take a more healthy interest in their kid's hobbies... I'd love to start board climbing, but all my gym has is a 45 degree fixed angle tension board with extra greasy wooden holds. I can climb v4 in the gym and I can't even get on a v0 on the board to establish the start.
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Mar 28, 2024 03:02
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UqwSahByqfQ Some pretty amazing footage
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Apr 1, 2024 00:12
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 Trip out to Mt Lemmon for spring break. https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106743587/demolition-derby
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Apr 2, 2024 06:44
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Sab669 posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UqwSahByqfQ Some cool shots but Alex H. comes off very poorly in this (and I'm sure all of the worst parts were edited out).
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Apr 2, 2024 19:58
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Yea, definitely lots of cool footage. But the guy being like, "Dude I'm just sitting down here dodging rocks" and Hazel going, "I do appreciate his friendship, but he is hard to love" made me feel bad for them.
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Apr 2, 2024 20:01
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Interesting, I watched it when it came out and thought that they played up the interpersonal drama a bit for the cameras. Honnold is still very clearly a driven, focused person, but it feels like he’s mellowed out quite a bit since the Free Solo days.
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Apr 2, 2024 21:16
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any multipitch enjoyers prefer to self lower or rap on a grigri instead of an atc?
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Apr 3, 2024 19:57
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:any multipitch enjoyers prefer to self lower or rap on a grigri instead of an atc? For the middle person in a party of 3
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Apr 3, 2024 20:21
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:any multipitch enjoyers prefer to self lower or rap on a grigri instead of an atc? Follower belays the leader on a gri-gri, leader belays the follower on an atc in guide mode, when you switch leaders you switch devices, that way everyone's getting an assisted belay. Then for rappel, you stack devices with the atc on top so the rope doesn't pull through, first person down descends on gri-gri single strand rappel, second person down descends on atc rappel on both strands.
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Apr 3, 2024 20:26
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ATC in guide mode sucks though. So much better using a grigri. Slapping an ATC in the back of your harness for the rap is no big deal. You can also do a biner block single stand rap if you want.
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Apr 7, 2024 14:57
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spwrozek posted:ATC in guide mode sucks though. So much better using a grigri. Slapping an ATC in the back of your harness for the rap is no big deal. You can also do a biner block single stand rap if you want. This is how I feel - when i first started learning to top belay off an anchor it was like, here's this complicated process on lowering off of guide mode, you may never do it but you need to know how... or you can just use a grigri. e: If i were climbing a huge multipitch with a full trad rack and counting every gram, i might feel differently. alnilam fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Apr 7, 2024 |
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Apr 7, 2024 17:29
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If I were out all day on a long multipitch route I’d value the east feed and convenience of a grigri even more.
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Apr 7, 2024 17:42
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alnilam posted:If i were... counting every gram, i might feel differently. How often are we really doing this? Maybe I'm not as hard as other folks but I'm not climbing at a level where a few grams or even a pound will limit me
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Apr 7, 2024 22:48
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Slimy Hog posted:How often are we really doing this? Maybe I'm not as hard as other folks but I'm not climbing at a level where a few grams or even a pound will limit me That's what I'm saying, i don't care at all, but i also don't do massive multipitch trad stuff and I could forgive those people for wanting to shed unnecessary equipment
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Apr 7, 2024 23:42
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alnilam posted:That's what I'm saying, i don't care at all, but i also don't do massive multipitch trad stuff and I could forgive those people for wanting to shed unnecessary equipment I DO do multipitch trad stuff but never at a limit where a pound will prevent the send. That being said I've never climbed harder than 5.9 trad in eldo 🤷
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Apr 7, 2024 23:58
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Do you guys ever keep like a "log" or anything of how different shoe brand/models fit you? Like I assume a 41 in some flat Beginner shoes aren't the same as a 41 in something super aggressively shaped from the same brand. I don't love my current daily shoes, but it's so frustrating trying to get a pair that fits. My only local store has a pretty limited selection, and the nearest REI [80 minutes away] also doesn't have a great selection. Previously I bought 3 different sizes and shipped the other 2 back, which I don't really want to make a habit of while searching for a pair I really like.
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Apr 8, 2024 17:23
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Yeah I keep a note with lists of shoes that fit well and shoes that didn't fit well, including the size and a short note like "stiff", "baggy heel". sizesquirrel can give you a starting point for translating one model or brand to another, but "solution 41 is oracle 9.5" doesn't tell you anything about the shape of the last, stiffness, or fit.
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Apr 8, 2024 18:57
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I've just been buying the same shoes for over a decade now. Once you find something that fits might as well stick with it. If you're trying to find the right shoes, look around for gyms doing shoe demos
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Apr 9, 2024 04:06
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Xyven posted:I've just been buying the same shoes for over a decade now. Once you find something that fits might as well stick with it. This has been me. I hit such a good mark with the Muiras that I can't bring myself to mess with success, especially at 150+ a pop. I cycle between two pairs of Muiras as each gets resoled and when one kicks the bucket for good, I will probably buy more Muiras.
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Apr 9, 2024 04:21
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The trick is to buy 2 more pairs of whatever you like, because if you don't they'll discontinue them.
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Apr 9, 2024 08:23
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Xyven posted:I've just been buying the same shoes for over a decade now. Once you find something that fits might as well stick with it. Yeah same. I just buy Scarpa instincts. They feel like they used my foot as the mold. I'll try another shoe every year or so to see if I want soft comp shoes and turns out I don't. But I'll try again whenever I get some extra random cash
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Apr 9, 2024 14:38
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I'm so excited. Today we did our first short outdoor session of the season and like we do every year we try our ultimate "I hope we can do that one day" project (a v7). Last year we were happy because we were able to hold the starting position and sort of move toward the first hold. Today I did all the moves except one and can do many links. Holy poo poo I'm excited, never thought I progressed that much this year.
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Apr 18, 2024 21:47
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My neighbor gently pressured me into going to a local climbing gym today and I’m glad he did, I had way more fun than I thought I would and now I have the bug. Friendly neighbor dude has a good size crew that goes every tues/thurs and I think I might go. I used to do some recreational tree climbing and still have all my gear but never got around to rock/gym climbing. A little while after I got home I went out to rei and picked up some shoes lol, I’m stoked.
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May 5, 2024 10:47
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Rotten posted:My neighbor gently pressured me into going to a local climbing gym today and I’m glad he did, I had way more fun than I thought I would and now I have the bug. Friendly neighbor dude has a good size crew that goes every tues/thurs and I think I might go. Lmao happened the exact same way for me. Tried it and just immediately clicked. I've been going steadily for 3 years now and getting outside every chance I can. Rock climbing is so fun.
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May 9, 2024 21:53
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Rotten posted:My neighbor gently pressured me into going to a local climbing gym today and I’m glad he did, I had way more fun than I thought I would and now I have the bug. Friendly neighbor dude has a good size crew that goes every tues/thurs and I think I might go.  From tree climbing you will (assuming you learned it right) have a good foundation for understanding safety systems and knots and stuff. Some things are a little different but even just the basic idea of "check the entire system to assess if it's secure and redundant, think about what will happen if a piece fails, think about swing potential and where you will fall if you fall" are really good intuitions to have that most rock climbers have to build at the same time as learning the ropes, not to mention the climbing itself, and it can be a lot at once.
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May 9, 2024 22:08
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alnilam posted:"check the entire system to assess if it's secure and redundant, think about what will happen if a piece fails, think about swing potential and where you will fall if you fall" Good to know that stuff translates over!
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May 11, 2024 21:08
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Rotten posted:My neighbor gently pressured me into going to a local climbing gym today and I’m glad he did, I had way more fun than I thought I would and now I have the bug.  With 2 weeks to go until my next climbing trip, I've decided I need to do more for my endurance so my goal now is to climb a mile on auto belays by then. 25 Laps over 6 sessions -- feels really doable. I'm at 20 laps for today's session and I'm very pumped, but I can easily do another set of 5. I've also lost about 8 pounds [of the 25 I gained this winter] or so since starting to watch my intake at the beginning of April. Feeling good for this season so far!
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May 13, 2024 23:44
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I have a kind of silly question someone in here might know the answer to. You know in movies when special forces rappel down from a chopper or through a skylight into a bank during a heist? Well as a climber I've always wondered about how the gear and procedure for this works IRL. Are they being lowered down on an autobelay-like tether or are they rapping with a device? Are they single handing and holding a gun, or no-handing the autobelay tether and holding a gun, or leaving the gun on a sling/holster until they reach the bottom? Do they back up their rappel??
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May 15, 2024 17:32
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Sab669 posted:
A lot of people talk poo poo about them (at least in my experience) but I really miss having access to autobelays, none of the walls local to me use them and I always end my sessions feeling like I have some juice left in the tank that I can't quite squeeze out because I no longer have time to spend 3 or 4 hours in a single session, meanwhile I used to have shorter sessions on the auto belay at my old wall and feel absolutely hosed afterwards because I was constantly on the wall without any breaks longer than a couple of minutes having a drink of water.
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May 15, 2024 20:09
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RabidWeasel posted:A lot of people talk poo poo about them (at least in my experience) but I really miss having access to autobelays, none of the walls local to me use them and I always end my sessions feeling like I have some juice left in the tank that I can't quite squeeze out because I no longer have time to spend 3 or 4 hours in a single session, meanwhile I used to have shorter sessions on the auto belay at my old wall and feel absolutely hosed afterwards because I was constantly on the wall without any breaks longer than a couple of minutes having a drink of water. wtf, who shits on autobelays? How else you gonna toprope when you don't have a partner?
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May 15, 2024 21:21
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I've heard explanations for why people don't like them, but I cannot remember what those reasons were. But yea I think they're a great training tool, and in general just a nice-to-have for people who climb at weird hours or whatever.
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May 15, 2024 21:39
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alnilam posted:wtf, who shits on autobelays? How else you gonna toprope when you don't have a partner? These are the same guys who poo poo talk top roping and generally anything other than trad climbing in the snow with half a rack, I guess one benefit of moving is I don't have to put up with that bullshit any more but it was extremely prevalent at both of the big walls I used to climb at
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May 15, 2024 21:40
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I think one legit complaint is route setting for an autobelay is more limited laterally, I think they don't handle side-to-side stress if the climber falls. And I'm pretty sure they are generally only put on vertical walls, never anything overhung or more complex geometry?
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May 15, 2024 21:52
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Sab669 posted:I think one legit complaint is route setting for an autobelay is more limited laterally, I think they don't handle side-to-side stress if the climber falls. And I'm pretty sure they are generally only put on vertical walls, never anything overhung or more complex geometry? You can do some underhang with an autobelay, about as much as you could do a gym toprope without redirects.
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May 15, 2024 21:54
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the thing i hate most about autobelay is that if i miss and come off, im going right to the ground. i cant work a crux sequence or bypass it to climb above to see what the rest is like (unless there's another route on the same line with easier holds). makes giving any serious effort to an autobelay pretty frustrating, that every attempt is ground up. but they absolutely have their place and i would never say they're a waste of time or wall space etc.
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May 16, 2024 16:29
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As primarily a boulderer, I have a really hard time with allowing myself to just fall and attempt a given sequence when I do rope climb. Which honestly is dumb, because I have no qualms climbing into the crux of a boulder problem and working just that. But for some reason I have this bad habit of like, "Oh I didn't do it clean, just lower me and I'll try again"
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May 16, 2024 16:31
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:the thing i hate most about autobelay is that if i miss and come off, im going right to the ground. i cant work a crux sequence or bypass it to climb above to see what the rest is like (unless there's another route on the same line with easier holds). makes giving any serious effort to an autobelay pretty frustrating, that every attempt is ground up. but they absolutely have their place and i would never say they're a waste of time or wall space etc. They've got a new autobelay system at the local gym that will hold you for 10 seconds or so before lowering (or you hit the button at the top, or I believe if someone overrides it at the bottom).
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May 16, 2024 16:41
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:the thing i hate most about autobelay is that if i miss and come off, im going right to the ground. i cant work a crux sequence or bypass it to climb above to see what the rest is like (unless there's another route on the same line with easier holds). makes giving any serious effort to an autobelay pretty frustrating, that every attempt is ground up. but they absolutely have their place and i would never say they're a waste of time or wall space etc. You are just getting the Yo-Yo experience of the 80s(?). Embrace life before working a route was cool.
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May 16, 2024 17:37
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| # ? May 24, 2024 11:56 |
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:the thing i hate most about autobelay is that if i miss and come off, im going right to the ground. i cant work a crux sequence or bypass it to climb above to see what the rest is like (unless there's another route on the same line with easier holds). makes giving any serious effort to an autobelay pretty frustrating, that every attempt is ground up. but they absolutely have their place and i would never say they're a waste of time or wall space etc. Yeah that's annoying for sure. but if you don't have a partner, it's a lot better than not climbing! A lot of times I just rainbow climb back up to the crux when I'm working on something. Also some (but not all) of the autos at my gym are also on lead walls, so sometimes if I need a rest I'll clip my belay loop to a draw and hang there a bit.
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May 16, 2024 17:50
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