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Cuntpunch posted:I get the brush part, it's the teeth-that-don't-fit-anything that I don't quite understand. Scrapes off the nice black caulking made of grease, sand and iron that builds up between the cogs.
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Jun 25, 2021 20:59
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SimonSays posted:Scrapes off the nice black caulking made of grease, sand and iron that builds up between the cogs. Aha! inside the cogs as in between them, rather than inside the teeth. That makes much more sense now!
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Jun 26, 2021 07:13
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The cranks that came on my beater fixie were...not good. In addition to the swaging failing and letting the crank arms and chainring shift independently of each other, the chainring itself was not at all straight: https://imgur.com/7kzzwDr Also, one of the pedal straps broke. Both of these things are hot garbage:  So I finally managed to order replacements from somewhere that wasn't lying about what they had in stock, and I ran into a problem with clearance:  This is before tightening the cranks down. Once they're on tight, these bits overlap by a mm or a bit more, and cranky no turny. However, the chainline with them is spot on. I'm weighing my options: 1. Get a 130 BCD chainset instead of the 144 BCD ones pictured above, and hope that they clear. This might be the most responsible option, but it also means dealing with returns and shipping and finding a new crankset. 2. Get a new wider bottom bracket. Messes up the chain line, but avoids dealing with returns. I don't particularly like this option. 3. Grind the corners off the offending parts of the chainring. Also not a fan of this either since I would probably have to go far enough to hit the screws holding the ring on. 4. Hit the chainstay with a hammer and put a dent in there so the cranks clear. I'm more tempted by this option than I should be. It's definitely the "not done right, but done right now" solution and the bike's a cheap beater anyway so... Oldsrocket_27 fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Jun 29, 2021 |
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Jun 29, 2021 20:45
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Aluminum doesn't dent well, so I'd prob not go with #4.
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Jun 29, 2021 20:59
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It sucks but I'd do #1, yeah.
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Jun 29, 2021 21:09
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Thoughts on facing BB shell and head tube on a new frame? It's BSA threaded BB, so I figure there might be a slight width error, but the alignment is out of my hands. But the HT?
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Jul 5, 2021 02:27
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kimbo305 posted:Thoughts on facing BB shell and head tube on a new frame? Depends on which factory it's from (and batch sometimes), but modern frames usually have that done pretty well by the builder and the only thing that might cause trouble is the paint overspray. Steels and production processes are way better now than in the 80s, you don't really see anything that badly needs reaming or facing.
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Jul 5, 2021 02:58
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Except for disc brake mounts oh my god.
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Jul 5, 2021 03:17
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EvilJoven posted:Except for disc brake mounts oh my god. one of the guys that does factor bikes and whos factory used to do a ton of different brands said they told Santa Cruz they could face the brake mounts to perfection for them for an extra like $15-20/frame and Santa Cruz said no that didn't fit in their business model projections etc which probably isn't a crazy idea...$15-20 a frame doesn't seem like much to us but that's an extra cost on top of a base cost of the frame and overall might be hard to make that shift
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Jul 5, 2021 03:52
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SimonSays posted:Depends on which factory it's from (and batch sometimes), but modern frames usually have that done pretty well by the builder and the only thing that might cause trouble is the paint overspray. It was the paint that prompted me to ask. It's a presumably Maxway made Surely Lowside: https://imgur.com/a/cJh7Ifg Is brake mount facing a thing shops will do? Or do they just sand/file like I could at home?
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Jul 5, 2021 03:58
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We have a tool that costs several hundred dollars and is a bullshit finicky contraption that Park Tool made waaaaaay overcomplicated when they redesigned it for flat mount but yes give us money and we'll break the damned thing out and face your mounts.
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Jul 5, 2021 04:08
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kimbo305 posted:Is brake mount facing a thing shops will do? Or do they just sand/file like I could at home? VAR and Park both make pretty fancy specialized tools for this purpose so it'd depend if the shop has the gear to do it properly. Given how crappy a lot of mounts are it'd be a smart tool for a shop to have.  
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Jul 5, 2021 04:14
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What the gently caress that makes the PT one look as complicated as a hammer. Edit: less dumb in one major way though the PT one relies on you making extra sure it doesn't slip when moving it from one hole to the other. That one just grinds both at once. That's nice. EvilJoven fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Jul 5, 2021 |
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Jul 5, 2021 04:21
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Looks straightforward to me. TA mount for leveling. One of the cutters can slide on a radius to accommodate flat-mount, post-mount or custom. Gear driven
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Jul 5, 2021 05:03
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kimbo305 posted:It was the paint that prompted me to ask. It's a presumably Maxway made Surely Lowside: Ime surlys come with a thick coat of paint but the frames are usually otherwise ok. Bb threads often are clean but I would still chase them personally since it's really fast too if the threads are fine. Now's also a good time to drill a sewer hole under the bb shell if it doesn't have it.
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Jul 5, 2021 06:12
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Havana Affair posted:Ime surlys come with a thick coat of paint but the frames are usually otherwise ok. Should I sand down the surfaces anyways?
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Jul 5, 2021 06:59
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kimbo305 posted:It was the paint that prompted me to ask. It's a presumably Maxway made Surely Lowside: EvilJoven posted:We have a tool that costs several hundred dollars and is a bullshit finicky contraption that Park Tool made waaaaaay overcomplicated when they redesigned it for flat mount but yes give us money and we'll break the damned thing out and face your mounts. Also, in my experience, for whatever reason a lot of bike mechanics don't understand some of the principles behind the park tool one, not directed at you Joven. I had a stint as a machinist, so the jigging and everything is pretty familiar, but I also ended up training everyone at both shops on how to use the thing correctly. 10+ year veteran mechanics that don't understand you can't just do it by hand...
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Jul 5, 2021 14:12
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Jesus gently caress I hate disc brakes so much. Bike shops shouldn't have to bring in machinists for routine frame prep.
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Jul 5, 2021 15:58
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SimonSays posted:Jesus gently caress I hate disc brakes so much. Bike shops shouldn't have to bring in machinists for routine frame prep. Doing this kind of frame prep was absolutely standard for decades, it's not a disc brake thing.
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Jul 5, 2021 16:30
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yeah, sounds like facing the headset and bottom bracket, except you need a different tool
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Jul 5, 2021 16:35
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Of course, it's just incredibly silly to add something more when it could so easily be avoided.
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Jul 5, 2021 17:05
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eSporks posted:Really depends on the shop. Ya I had to watch the video a few time to get the setup and initial square set properly and you just gotta really make sure the thing is tight so it doesn't lose square moving from post to post and no you can't just eyeball it. It's not that the tool doesn't work it's just annoying as all hell to pull out of that stupid case and set up when all you want to so is get that damned bike built. Especially since realizing that the mounts needs to be faced happens when the wheels are back on the bike and the front caliper has been installed and God drat it you're basically taking the thing half apart again because nobody will pay the $20 it costs to send them out with the mounts guaranteed to not be hosed.
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Jul 5, 2021 19:12
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kimbo305 posted:Should I sand down the surfaces anyways? The lowside has IS mounts right? I wouldn't worry too much about the paint on those since you probably have the adapter and have usually enough adjustment on the brakes.
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Jul 5, 2021 19:13
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Clark Nova posted:yeah, sounds like facing the headset and bottom bracket, except you need a different tool The park tool disc brake mount has about 8 moving parts, and about 10-20 parts you use for different compatibility set ups. It's vitally important than the two mounts get machined in the same plane, but you can only do one at time. The tool attaches to the bikes axle to ensure everything lines up and it's all located off of that free spinning point. Note that freespinning here means alignment is more tricky than if it were located off a solid fixed attachment. You have to use includes shims to set the alignment for the first post. Then lock everything down. Then you machine the first post. And now, without undoing anything or letting it slip, you have to move to the other post and do that one. The set up is a 4 handed operation where you are trying to align something on multiple axis all at once. EvilJoven posted:Ya I had to watch the video a few time to get the setup and initial square set properly and you just gotta really make sure the thing is tight so it doesn't lose square moving from post to post and no you can't just eyeball it. It's not that the tool doesn't work it's just annoying as all hell to pull out of that stupid case and set up when all you want to so is get that damned bike built. Especially since realizing that the mounts needs to be faced happens when the wheels are back on the bike and the front caliper has been installed and God drat it you're basically taking the thing half apart again because nobody will pay the $20 it costs to send them out with the mounts guaranteed to not be hosed. To do a disc facing properly takes about 20-30 mins, not including the extra dissasembly and time wasted trying to avoid doing it. . It might go faster if I did more of them and we're more aquainted with the tool. The manufacturer is avoiding $20 a frame, but they are offloading the cost onto the shop in the form of a $300-500 tool and a process that costs ~$50 in labor when it comes up. Most shops just are just trying to avoid the labor cost on a manufacturer mistake. It sucks that most manufacturers won't issue a labor credit and a full warranty is generally not worth it either. And yea, bike shops shouldn't have to bring in machinists because the problem should have been taken care of by the machinists that made the frame/fork. eSporks fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Jul 5, 2021 |
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Jul 5, 2021 20:10
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Havana Affair posted:The lowside has IS mounts right? I wouldn't worry too much about the paint on those since you probably have the adapter and have usually enough adjustment on the brakes. This is typical kimbo bullshit, but I'm (planning on) running FM calipers on IS adapters, and the adapters themselves aren't slotted, but instead give you washers to do lateral and yaw adjustment: https://www.assolutions.ca/is-fm-installation/  So any precision I can add up front will help take guesswork / iteration out of the caliper adjustment phase. This especially applies to the rear, I think, where the IS mounts are themselves slotted for single speed:  I'm sure the paint's gonna get chewed up after a few wheel removals/adjustments anyways, so just trying to save myself some headache (that I signed myself up for).
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Jul 5, 2021 20:24
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I feel dumb asking this of someone who loves Klampers, but why are you choosing to run flat mount when you could run the better type of disc brakes?
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Jul 5, 2021 20:59
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This was meant to be a parts bin build, but of course it got away from that already. But yeah, I had the Klamps lying around and didn't really look too closely at what eBay prices were on a pair of hydros. It's mostly for the novelty, as usual.
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Jul 5, 2021 21:14
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:3. Grind the corners off the offending parts of the chainring. Also not a fan of this either since I would probably have to go far enough to hit the screws holding the ring on.
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Jul 6, 2021 00:16
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evil_bunnY posted:Don't grind the corner, grind the whole thing flat. Too late, already return shipped em. We'll see if 130BCD does it (the new cranks are supposed to arrive tomorrow), and if not I may get the angle grinder or file out yet. I'm hoping not to need to. Edit: I do see why that's a better idea though, thanks for the tip! Oldsrocket_27 fucked around with this message at 13:53 on Jul 6, 2021 |
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Jul 6, 2021 05:03
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kimbo305 posted:This especially applies to the rear, I think, where the IS mounts are themselves slotted for single speed: Judging by page 9 of these drawings I'm guessing you can't remove the wheel with caliper in place?
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Jul 6, 2021 18:54
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CopperHound posted:Fuckin Surly and their sliding dropout disc implementation. From pictures, it looks like the caliper is mounted close to top dead center over the rotor, so you could probably clear the rotor under the caliper body. They have a clever (not hack?) escape path downwards, too: 
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Jul 6, 2021 21:42
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I did the thing and it worked. Moving from a 48t to a 46t chainring makes the bike a little easier to goof around with, plus gets me off the dreaded 48/16 ratio. With that done, I'm considering this bike finished. It's a pretty fun toy. 
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Jul 7, 2021 03:48
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How unergonomic is that bar end brake lever mounted on the drops? It seems like it would be less than ideal
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Jul 7, 2021 12:46
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:How unergonomic is that bar end brake lever mounted on the drops? It seems like it would be less than ideal Riding in the drops it’s really ergonomic, the lever is always right there in your hand. That’s where I spend most of my time on the bike so it’s been good for me.
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Jul 7, 2021 16:05
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I installed new pedals and I may have crossthreaded one. It was a touch difficult to screw in whereas the other one went in easy, barely any force at all till the end. I was able to torque the one I suspect I crossthreaded to spec. What, if any, bad things should I expect to happen if I crossthreaded my pedal?
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Jul 8, 2021 02:05
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I have a 2017 Cannondale CAADX 105 and the chainrings, cassette, and chain need to be replaced. According to REI (and confirmed by me) these are: Crankset: FSA Gossamer Cross, BB30, 46/36 Bottom Bracket: FSA BB30 Rear Cogs: Shimano 105, 11-28, 11-speed Chain: KMC X11, 11-speed I have most of the tools (e.g., cassette removal tool) but I feel like drivetrain parts compatibility is beyond my understanding. How can I source some comparable parts and be reasonably confident that things will line up as they're supposed to?
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Jul 8, 2021 02:21
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Dren posted:I installed new pedals and I may have crossthreaded one. It was a touch difficult to screw in whereas the other one went in easy, barely any force at all till the end. I was able to torque the one I suspect I crossthreaded to spec. What, if any, bad things should I expect to happen if I crossthreaded my pedal? It falls out and you change that arm
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Jul 8, 2021 02:31
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Speaking as a person who works on cars for a living, crossthreading usually feels a bit harder than "a touch difficult". Not saying it's not possible, but you usually have to put some good force into it. Hopefully you just had some poo poo on the threads of the crank arm.
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Jul 8, 2021 02:36
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BeastPussy posted:Speaking as a person who works on cars for a living, crossthreading usually feels a bit harder than "a touch difficult". Not saying it's not possible, but you usually have to put some good force into it. Hopefully you just had some poo poo on the threads of the crank arm. I had a bunch of anti-seize compound on there. Could that have done it? I think I’m gonna pull it off and look for evidence of crossthreading. If it’s messed up I’d rather know now than when my pedal falls off mid-ride.
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Jul 8, 2021 03:40
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Easychair Bootson posted:I have a 2017 Cannondale CAADX 105 and the chainrings, cassette, and chain need to be replaced. According to REI (and confirmed by me) these are: Gonna preface this with there are actual bike mechanics who read these threads, so take their advice first. If it’s just the chainrings, chain, and rear cassette that need replacing you don’t need to worry about the bottom bracket or cranks, outside of knowing what the BCD (Bolt Connection Diameter?) of the for the chainrings. Just need to buy 11spd Shimano compatible parts in your desired gear range. Cassette tool and a chain breaker are the only special tools needed.
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Jul 8, 2021 03:46
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