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DildenAnders posted:I had a car (unplanned) sit for about 9 months. Aside from changing the oil (already changing the coolant since it's a radiator that kept it from moving for so long) what else should i take check/replace? Also, rotors were in good shape prior to parking it, will I be alright just braking the rust off them, or should I get the rotors resurfaced? 9 months isn't *that* long. Change the oil like you were planning and then brake the rust off the rotors. If the grinding doesn't go away after several stops, then take a closer look at your rotors, otherwise don't worry about them.
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Apr 6, 2021 12:26
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Uthor posted:Seems to me that unfucking it will entail getting the place that broke your stuff to replace it. Yeah, I was afraid that'd be the case. Beach Bum posted:Either this or it was damaged in shipping, in which case, you insured your $$$ ECU when shipping it, right? I did, yes. I have a feeling we're headed towards a he said / she said situation about where the damage came from, but oh well.
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Apr 6, 2021 13:29
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USS CADILLAC UPDATE We had moved enough brake fluid through the system to get it out of the garage and to its new home, this past weekend was the first time we attempted to do more substantial work (specifically: a complete brake fluid flush). The rear skirt and passenger wheel came off without fuss, and the first brake bleed went as smoothly as you could hope. But that first corner set unrealistic expectations as to how the rest would go... >Rear Passenger: Success >Rear Driver: Brake bleed nipple rusted in place, no combination of elbow grease/PB-Blaster/wrenches/bloody knuckles/cursing made it budge even a goddamned hair. In the interest of improving things at least a tiny bit we loosened the hose further up so that it would "weep" brake fluid without allowing air back in with full knowledge it'd all need to be redone later >Front Passenger: Nipple came off without issue - - - but then not even a drop of brake fluid came out. Inspecting the hose I'd guess it's rusted from the inside. >Front Driver: Success. So now we have effective braking on the front driver and rear passenger side. Great. Next steps: We have a friend with a workshop, so rather than attempt to deal with that rusted-on hose nipple we're going to take it to him to apply some fire (I assume that's what he'll do?) - but mostly because he has a lift, and we want to get a good look underneath the car. There are at least 2 new brake hoses in the car's future (the hoses where we had success look to have been replaced recently). Tires are on their way - we were stoked to find that while two tires had the size "8.0 x 15" on them, two were newer so we now knew what size to order in "new tire sizing" (225 x 75 x 15). The stupid questions: >Friend suggested we do a "bench bleed" of the master cylinder, which, OK, sure, seems like a good idea - but thing is, I presume there are going to be seals/gaskets that are shot and need replacement - and we can get a replacement master cylinder from Autozone for under $50. Seems like a better deal, no? >While we can get the master cylinder for cheap nobody has the booster available/in stock/orderable. What kind of maintenance should we do to the booster? >Carb noob question: After we got the tires/wheels back on and went to start the car it utterly refused to comply (It seemed to be getting no fuel). I was able to get it going by spraying WD-40 in the carb while my buddy cranked. The car had started without issue to get out of the garage so we could wrench a few hours earlier, though. I'd think this was a choke issue - supposedly the car has an electronic choke though so... ugh. Should I attempt to troubleshoot this as a misbehaving electronic choke or maybe just assume it was a fluke and see if it happens again...?
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Apr 6, 2021 13:48
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You're going to need a full set of brake hoses and new wheel cylinders. Inside of the wheel cylinder are two plungers and a spring, covered with a rubber boot. If you take the wheel cylinder apart that spring and plungers have probably left rust ridges inside, and the rubber is crumbly. And if you're doing one or two.... May as well commit to all new and have it even. I don't know about the carb situation, I want to say it was heat soaked and you needed to wait or crank with the throttle wide open or maybe not touch the throttle at all.
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Apr 6, 2021 16:13
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Do nothing to the brake booster unit so long as it is working. If the master cylinder looks unique in some way, keep it, don’t pitch it after replacing it with a new one. I am currently going through bleed hell with the clutch circuit on my son’s ‘01 Accord. I mention this because I have bled brakes dozens of times over the years and have never had a problem. You do not need to bench-bleed a new master for this make & vintage. Install it to the booster, and fill it with fluid (you can use Dot3 or Dot 4 even, but it has to be thoroughly flushed if you change the type). There should be dust caps on the female-threaded ends that thread onto the brake lines. Remove the caps and let some of the fluid drain out to remove any air, then thread on the lines. I would replace all four wheel cylinders, since you’re going to be replacing the shoes anyway & it’ll never be easier. They’re like $20 each. Your chief challenge will be getting the hardlines off of the cylinders without twisting/kinking them. Hose them up good with penetrant. Be patient and take your time. Wiggle the end nut while applying penetrant and watch the steel tube to be sure that it is coming loose. Use a flare nut wrench and be absolutely sure it’s sitting tight on the nut, because once they’re bitched, it’s new line - line repair time. I forget that no one deals with chokes anymore  Let the engine get stone-cold. The choke flap over the low circuit should be nearly closed - the book should tell you the gap that should be there, it’s a couple sixteenths of an inch. You should be able to poke it open with a finger and it should return to closed. Starting these cars is a bit different than a modern car. After it has been driven & parked until cold, the start procedure is to push the pedal all the way to the floor once to release the choke so it can close. Then, start the car with no further application of pedal. The engine should catch and then idle quite high. It may run rough for a bit if it hasn’t been run in a few days as each cylinder comes up to temp. After about ten seconds, blip the throttle and the idle should come down quite a bit, but still be faster than normal. Let the engine settle down a bit - another minute or so - and then blip it again (it can be driven after the first blip, you don’t have to wait) This car came with a choke that was heated from the intake manifold via a choke stove - a short section of steel tube that connects between the choke body & the intake manifold. The choke mechanism is housed in a black plastic cap attached to the front side of the carb. You’ll see 3-screws holding it on. Those are also set screws, and if you look closely at the cover you’ll see little graduation marks. Don’t mess with this yet, but this is the choke tension adjustment, controlling how tight the heat-sensitive spring inside resists the choke flap. If an electronic choke has been added (probably to replace a sticky original, more on that later if you want) there will be a connector & wire tied into a 12V source. It’s just an electric heater- it gets current to relax the spring so the choke opens. If the choke is wide open when the engine is cold, it will not start and will actively resist catching. Before doing anything else, see if it starts when cold with the choke closed. And watch it warm up to see if the choke is working properly. Once the engine is warm, but has been sitting a bit (such as grocery shopping), re-starting may involve pressing the throttle down about 1/4 or less - just a little- before turning the key. Most times, it should start without touching the accelerator. But whatever you do, don’t pump the hell out of the pedal. Each pump delivers a squirt of raw fuel into the carb throat, and you can flood it pretty easily. If you do flood it and can wait, do so, at least ten minutes by the clock. If not, push the pedal to the floor and crank it until it starts to stumble/fire; stop everything, take your foot off the gas, and see if it’ll start then. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Apr 6, 2021 |
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Apr 6, 2021 16:44
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Beach Bum posted:Either this or it was damaged in shipping, in which case, you insured your $$$ ECU when shipping it, right? '01 Corvette ECU should be just new enough that it isn't one of the one-off early LSx computers. It'd cost more to buy new HPTuners credits for the new computer than for the computer itself.
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Apr 6, 2021 16:51
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sarcastx posted:USS CADILLAC UPDATE Please post a thread entitled USS Cadillac! We understand that you probably won't be updating every day or two but this beast deserves its own thread.
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Apr 6, 2021 17:21
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I'm having an issue with my FR-S. It's a 2013 with the 2.0 engine and the 6MT transmission, stock other than a drop-in air filter. It's blue, which I understand is important information here. I took it for an oil change plus wheel rotation a couple weeks back prior to a road trip this weekend (500ish miles round trip), and everything seemed fine, but notably I don't drive a whole lot. After getting it out on the highway, I noticed a sound seemingly coming from the rear driver-side wheel. My partner also seemed to think it was coming from there. It was kind of a high-pitched woowoowoowoo sound (like when you wave a saw or thin piece of metal? that's the best way I can describe). It gets a bit louder and faster with road speed, and is most noticeable between 45 and 65 mph (it's too quiet below that and too much wind buffeting noise above to really hear it). Engine speed makes no difference, and the ride doesn't seem any rougher than usual, but it's not a particularly smooth car. I put on new tires fall 2019, so they can't possibly have more than 5000 miles on them being extremely generous. The sound didn't seem to change any during the trip, though it might have gone away at times (or maybe I got better at ignoring it). Any ideas?
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Apr 6, 2021 20:53
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Probably a bad wheel bearing.
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Apr 6, 2021 21:15
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this type of poo poo is basically impossible to diagnose remotely but did you check to make sure your lug nuts are correctly tightened and torqued? edit: this doesn't apply if it didn't happen immediately after the service visit
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Apr 6, 2021 21:20
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Not to downplay, but are you sure you aren't just being paranoid and hearing new tire noise after the rotation? The whole point of a rotation is to move wear to new parts of the tire. Definitely check lugs and stuff though.
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Apr 6, 2021 21:41
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Howdy (again) AI goons. Guess who did something stupid again... it was me I was cleaning off my license plates to apply the new stickers and I had set the dumb mounting bolts on the grille. I didn't realize that it was OPEN and bumped it when I went to go pick them up with my giant ham hands and they went INTO the grille. I can see the radiator when I look in there, but cannot see the bolts, though I heard a thunk sound when they hit... somewhere plasticy. I watched a youtube video which shows that the grille is not that hard to remove (a couple of trim pins and a few bolts) but generally is this necessary? Or will they be able to fall out OR worse yet, will they roll into anything that could damage them if I move the car before removing them? 2012 ford explorer for what it's worth.
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Apr 6, 2021 22:23
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:this type of poo poo is basically impossible to diagnose remotely but did you check to make sure your lug nuts are correctly tightened and torqued? Disagree, it could definitely happen a week or two later. otter posted:Howdy (again) AI goons. If they're between the grille and the radiator/AC condensor, they probably won't get in to anything that will cause harm. If they were behind the radiator then yeah they clould fall in to the serpentine belt or the fan and cause some poo poo. If you can get the grille out easy enough, tke it off and maybe get a long extendible magnet type thing and take a look for them shits and try to pick them up with a magnet.
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Apr 6, 2021 22:44
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A stupid tire question. Is there any kind of preservative or anything to use on tires (whole they're attached to the vehicle) to help slow the onset of dry rot/cracking? I'm aware that avoiding stuff with petroleum and keeping away from direct sunlight/ozone/chemicals helps, but I didn't know if there was a "sunscreen for tires" or something I could use.
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Apr 6, 2021 23:30
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We use 303 Aerospace Protector to treat rubber hoses and seals that need to be out in the sun and exposed to salt, it's not cheap but it seems really effective on stopping things from perishing. This is working on a salt lake in the Australian outback where it can get up to 115°F, we use it on drill rig pressure hoses and amphibious vehicle tyres and tracks.
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Apr 6, 2021 23:37
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Memento posted:We use 303 Aerospace Protector to treat rubber hoses and seals that need to be out in the sun and exposed to salt, it's not cheap but it seems really effective on stopping things from perishing. This is working on a salt lake in the Australian outback where it can get up to 115°F, we use it on drill rig pressure hoses and amphibious vehicle tyres and tracks. That's great to know, I use that on plastics but if it helps rubber too I've got a few spots that will benefit. How often do you apply it?
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Apr 6, 2021 23:56
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Two tire related questions: First, I almost need to replace the rear tires on my Giulia after less than 10k miles and the OEM P-Zero runflats are honestly not that bad in terms of performance but at about $700 a pair I'd rather not have to get new ones every 8 months so I'm probably going to replace them with some Pilot Sport 4Ses. Anyone have a slime/pump recommendation I can keep under the trunk liner? The Quadrifolgio comes with a kit my dealer sells but it's $200 plus and I'm sure there are much cheaper alternatives that are as good or better. I have AAA and spend 99% of my time in a major metropolitan area so not too worried about getting stranded but it would be nice to be able to pump things up to limp to a tire shop so I'm not fully reliant on a tow for something that isn't a blow-out. Second, anyone have a tire recommendation for an inexpensive summer performance-ish tire that comes in 185/55/R15? When I say summer performance-ish, I mean we live in Southern California but it's also going on a 100hp Fiat 500 so "performance" just really means stickier than an unnecessary all season.
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Apr 6, 2021 23:59
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StormDrain posted:That's great to know, I use that on plastics but if it helps rubber too I've got a few spots that will benefit. How often do you apply it? We use it every couple of weeks during regular maintenance, but you could almost certainly get away with applying it less often in less extreme conditions. Who was the goon who had a bunch of orange cars in Phoenix? I think he used it and really liked it.
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Apr 7, 2021 00:02
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otter posted:Howdy (again) AI goons. Last time I dropped something into the engine bay like that, I needed to take off the plastic undertray. Not a big job. I could reach under without jacking the car up, then just the front coupla bolts undone and the plastic tray bent down and everything rolled towards me. Of course rather than bending plastic, the proper thing to do is jack it up, stands in, and remove the rear bolt(s) as well. With an Explorer you might fit under without jacking. But getting a reachy magnet is just useful to have too.
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Apr 7, 2021 00:29
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crackhaed posted:Two tire related questions: I think Slime is kind of frowned upon, but my understanding is it works alright. It just makes a mess and thus irritates the technician who replaces the tire. Anyway, keep some of that and a Viair compressor in your trunk and you should be able to handle flats reasonably well. TireRack.com has a couple Kumho Ecstas in my area for under $90 in that size. If I remember right, they’re pretty popular amongst autocross folks, so they would probably do what you’re looking for. I’d head over there and see what options came up. They do some good reviews too. nitsuga fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Apr 7, 2021 |
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Apr 7, 2021 00:33
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nitsuga posted:I think Slime is kind of frowned upon, but my understanding is it works alright. It just makes a mess and thus irritates the technician who replaces the tire. Anyway, keep some of that and a Viair compressor in your trunk and you should be able to handle flats reasonably well. nitsuga posted:TireRack.com has a couple Kumho Ecstas in my area for under $90 in that size. If I remember right, they’re pretty popular amongst autocross folks, so they would probably do what you’re looking for. I’d head over there and see what options came up. They do some good reviews too.
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Apr 7, 2021 01:10
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I had a big post written but my hosed touchscreen wildly poo poo all over it so I'm gonna make this short because I'm out of fucks to give. Dilden, get it good and hot for a bit before changing the oil. It'll flush any condensation and goop out better than just changing it. Dude with the license plate screws vs gravity issue, try a magnet on a bendy stick tool. The orange car guy from AZ is Holdbrooks.
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Apr 7, 2021 02:04
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crackhaed posted:If it's good enough to include as OEM for the QV it can't be too frowned upon, right? Any particular slime brand recommended? I'm only familiar with tubeless bike slimes but never used any for a car. I guess I wouldn’t sweat it. If there’s no spare, seems like Slime and a compressor is really just you taking care of your own. I don’t have any personal experience, but I know I’ve heard of Slime working fine. They’ve got plenty of info on their website too, so it’d be worth a gander, but I’ll bet Slime 10011 is what you’re after.
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Apr 7, 2021 02:25
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mobby_6kl posted:Well I got the tranny from my Fit/Jazz out with the help of a friend who's a real-deal mechanic. The transmission disassembly went fairly smoothly and I replaced the known to fail front input shaft bearing without any issues. It was slightly noisy. I then decided to check the other bearing, which I don't have and everyone said is usually fine. It's not. The new bearing is here so I'll head out to install it and everything else back together. The car has an aftermarket clutch at about 200k km, so I'm not sure if I should install another one just in case. Maybe I'll remove the current one and check for wear? Considering the car was $600 I'm leaning towards returning the $80 clutch kit lol. But if I do change it, is the RMS supposed to be lubed for installation? Would motor oil be ok or is some fancy stuff required? It's this one: http://ecatcorteco.com/web/corteco/...archAppType=ENG
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Apr 7, 2021 10:42
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Yes, engine oil. You just need to smear it around the mating surfaces. Just like when you replace an oil filter, except you'll be doing the outside edge (maybe the side that faces the inside of the engine too). If it's already leaking, just run your finger around the inside edge of where the old seal was and use that to lube it. Do the clutch while it's apart unless the one in there looks brand new. You don't REALLY want to drop the trans again, do you? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:03 on Apr 7, 2021 |
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Apr 7, 2021 14:00
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Seconding: ALWAYS replace the clutch & throwout bearing when you open it. It's relatively cheap, and simple to do while it's out.
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Apr 7, 2021 16:57
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Edit: disregard, wrong poster
Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Apr 7, 2021 |
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Apr 7, 2021 19:32
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STR posted:Yes, engine oil. You just need to smear it around the mating surfaces. Just like when you replace an oil filter, except you'll be doing the outside edge (maybe the side that faces the inside of the engine too). If it's already leaking, just run your finger around the inside edge of where the old seal was and use that to lube it. PainterofCrap posted:Seconding: ALWAYS replace the clutch & throwout bearing when you open it. It's relatively cheap, and simple to do while it's out. Rear main seal and Pilot bushing too. E: and get the flywheel resurfaced.
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Apr 7, 2021 23:59
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Would a NIB 30 y/o torque wrench be good to go if i checked the calibration?
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Apr 8, 2021 14:32
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So I'm looking at adding on a GPS module to my '15 Scion xB. The Scion modules seem to be the same as the Toyota modules but are more expensive for some reason, is there any reason to think the Toyota module won't work for my scion? https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Toyota-Scion-Harman-extension-Navigation-Module-86100-YY050/193856430075?hash=item2d22be5ffb:g:UKYAAOSw4I5gB2Iv https://www.ebay.ca/itm/12-13-14-To...5.c101196.m2219 Part numbers are different, altho the second one references the first. They look identical obviously, the only thing I'm worried about is the wiring pins being the same
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Apr 8, 2021 14:38
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PeterCat posted:Would a NIB 30 y/o torque wrench be good to go if i checked the calibration? After calibration yeah should be good to go
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Apr 8, 2021 14:46
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Applebees Appetizer posted:So I'm looking at adding on a GPS module to my '15 Scion xB. The Scion modules seem to be the same Throw in a Pioneer or Kenwood Android Auto/Apple Carplay head unit and call it a day, use your phone for everything. Okay, it won't look stock, but functionality will be miles better. You won't ever have to worry about up to date maps either. I'd suggest Pioneer over Kenwood, simply bc Kenwood likes to hijack the Bluetooth streaming audio output from the phone (including alerts, ringtons, etc) even when you're not on the BT input (REALLY annoying if you're trying to listen to a radio station or CD while using your phone for navigation). Pioneer is a lot more polite about that, they usually leave the BT streaming audio disconnected until you switch to the BT input (or a phone call happens). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Apr 8, 2021 |
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Apr 8, 2021 18:25
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I don't want to do that tho, I hate using my phone for poo poo other than just calling and texting. I use CDs and a memory stick for music. I will occasionally stream a podcast but that's it. It already has a Pioneer unit in it from the factory that sounds really good, I just want to add the factory GPS specifically so I don't have to use my phone for GPS.
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Apr 8, 2021 18:38
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I'm with STR, factory nav fuckin blows. Google Maps via CarPlay is a life changing experience in comparison.
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Apr 8, 2021 19:03
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Applebees Appetizer posted:I don't want to do that tho, I hate using my phone for poo poo other than just calling and texting. I use CDs and a memory stick for music. I will occasionally stream a podcast but that's it. Almost every factory system, other than those that are basically running Google Maps themselves, is absolute hot garbage compared to Android Auto or CarPlay. You don't actually operate it from your phone, it shows up on the car screen like a factory nav system would, it's just Google/Apple Maps or Waze with real-time updates free forever as opposed to whatever crapware Toyota licensed.
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Apr 8, 2021 19:28
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Like everyone else says... just get an aftermarket head unit. Android Auto/Apple Carplay will even give you live traffic updates. If it's done right, you're not even touching your phone - it'll be mirrored on your stereo, right down to touchscreen controls. IIRC on an xB, the stereo is just below the cluster anyway, so you're barely taking your eyes off the road to do anything involving the stereo (why don't more companies do the center-mount cluster anyway? it's the one thing I REALLY miss about my Saturns...) Unless you really like "turn right in 100 feet" when that turn takes you into the ocean. Or through Groverhaus. Or through a lake. And none of the built-in navigation accounts for live traffic. There's a reason everyone has gone either to IoT (hi Tesla) or Android Auto/Apple Carplay (nearly everybody else).. That fancy Pioneer head unit Scion installed likely has better amps and speakers vs the super base model stereo they used in a Corolla (in fact it looks REALLY close to the factory radio in my Matrix). Pretty sure they didn't even use separate amps, just a higher quality stereo (vs a Corolla) and better speakers. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Apr 8, 2021 |
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Apr 8, 2021 19:50
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STR posted:And none of the built-in navigation accounts for live traffic. Not strictly true for newer cars - the built-in nav on my Crosstrek is a Tomtom OEM and it gets live traffic updates (and weather) over the air. Some built-in navs have the advantage of showing upcoming turns/directions in a better place than the radio touchscreen too - Subaru will show it on the smaller upper display, Volvo will show it in the dashboard display. That said, 99.5% of the time we use Apple/Google/Waze instead since it's so much better.
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Apr 8, 2021 19:58
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Car Mook question: So the sun is melting snow, and soon I'll be able to start fixing some wheel well corrosion. My problem: I don't have a garage, and the weather often doesn't cooperate, mainly delivering high winds that makes even otherwise good days difficult to impossible to paint. Is there any way around this? Getting a garage doesn't seem to be in the cards. What else can the DIY paint/rust treatment dude do? I'm dreaming up a painting tarp that uses suction clamps to stick itself to the body - I have a paint respirator so I wouldn't poison myself.
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Apr 8, 2021 20:01
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luminalflux posted:Not strictly true for newer cars - the built-in nav on my Crosstrek is a Tomtom OEM and it gets live traffic updates (and weather) over the air Correct, but in this case, we were being extremely specific - Applebee Appetizer's car is a very late Scion xB. The Scion brand died at the end of the 2014 model year (maybe early 2015 MY) (the iA carried on as a Toyota for a bit, but it was literally a rebadged Mazda 2), and IIRC he's driving an xB that's a year or two older. And that live traffic, on late model cars, sometimes relies on a subscription plan. I know there were specific frequencies dedicated to traffic stuff in the late 90s/early 00s, but they never really caught on on in the US. Today it mostly relies on whatever "emergency response" system is built into the car (which relies on the cellular radio built into the car for whatever Onstar-like system the car has) TomTom may do it differently - if they do, that's awesome! randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Apr 8, 2021 |
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Apr 8, 2021 20:06
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opengl128 posted:I'm with STR, factory nav fuckin blows. Google Maps via CarPlay is a life changing experience in comparison. 100%
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Apr 8, 2021 20:47
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