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One thing I've done before that works well for certain tools is to use one of those extension cords with a light in the clear overmolded plug. That way you know right away if the outlet you've plugged into is live. Not really necessary in a lathe, but it's something to keep in the back of your mind.
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Apr 19, 2016 03:06
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I would just like to take a moment for a Public Service Announcement for all the newbies (and some entertainment for those more experienced readers): Double, triple, even quadruple check that you have the right footprints on your project before you submit them to have boards made. Have someone else check them if need be. I've been designing my first board recently, (a VFD tube clock,) and just got the PCBs back a few days ago. I checked for any obvious shorts, attached most of the parts, and plugged it in to start checking functions. Odd things happened, so I started checking more carefully. It turns out that even though I started going through each footprint and checking it against the datasheets, I rushed and missed three important ones. A MOSFET (LFPAK) driving my boost circuit, two LED (SOIC 24) driver chips, and some tactile switches. I salvaged and rerouted the MOSFET, but not without ripping off a pad, and I haven't started tweaking the pins for the drivers or the switches yet. Now windows won't recognize my ATmega32u4, so I've got to get that off the board with only a soldering iron. At this point I'd rather just throw together one of my spare boards, but I dread trying to get all of these tubes and chips out and back in without hot air. TL;DR: Don't rush. Check the datasheets against your board layout. Check them again. Have someone else check them. Give up and take up underwater basket-weaving instead. Also, test each section as you assemble it.
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Dec 7, 2016 06:11
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One Legged Ninja posted:TL;DR: Don't rush. Check the datasheets against your board layout. Check them again. Have someone else check them. Give up and take up underwater basket-weaving instead. Also, test each section as you assemble it. A small update: I took the two SOIC-24 LED chips off with my iron, and it was still a no-go. So I got out a second board and put on just what I needed to get the uC to run. That one didn't even make my computer do the ba-DOOP sound, so after two days of testing and inspecting everything, I went to set it down with the USB cord in, and clumsily banged it off the bench and broke the connector off. That's when I found that the data pins weren't actually connected to the pads. When I stuck the probe on them to test continuity, it would push down and make contact, but nothing was getting through normally. I think next time I design something, I'm going to use through-hole connectors. Anyway, after a few hours of playing around and learning all about fuse bits, I can get both boards to pop up as a Leonardo, and a simple Hello World written to the serial port works fine. But the code I've written so far for my breadboard setup just makes the device unrecognizable. I've tried to make it generically applicable to any 32u4, avoiding platform specific shortcuts to pins and so on (except for quick and dirty temporary code), because I'm testing with a Teensy 2.0. So I suppose I'll have to go through line by line and see what's breaking it.
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Dec 10, 2016 06:05
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This is every project I've ever worked on. Ever. This one has a somewhat strict deadline, however.
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Dec 11, 2016 05:38
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So a few weeks ago I ordered 10 of these boost converters to play around with in various projects, as well as two better made ones from a domestic seller, for an actual project that I would like not to fail. When the good ones came in, I unwrapped one, hooked it up to my bench supply at 5v, and adjusted it to output 12v. All was well. The cheap ones came in a week or two later, so I dug one out, soldered some wires on, put it on the power supply, and tested it. No good, it was passing 5v (minus the diode drop) straight through, no matter how I adjusted the pot. I opened a second, same thing. I figured you get what you pay for, but I should have a few good ones in this batch. I tried a third one, same result. So I searched YouTube for this part number, and a video came up where a guy melted three of them. Reading the comments, however, lead me to this Amazon review. Apparently the factory setting for the trimmer pot allows too much voltage to the IC if you supply it with more than 4v or so. If you back the trimmer way out, and only feed it ~3v, then adjust it to near your desired voltage, then you can feed it whatever it's rated for. I've only tested three so far, but it's worked for all of them. TL;DR: Cheap Chinese electronics are cheap for a reason. Do your research first.
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Jun 12, 2017 00:56
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Sagebrush posted:As long as you take the time to carefully spread the socket open the right amount before inserting the stud, I'm sure you can make the female connector fit nearly anything. 
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Nov 28, 2017 21:18
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Harvey Baldman posted:, but my PCB has it basically tied to the VCC, so I can't manipulate it properly. Can you cut the trace and run a jumper wire to the Teensy?
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Jan 4, 2019 17:25
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goodness posted:I think that will work. It is to trigger an effect so it doesn't need to be held down. Hopefully I'm misunderstanding, but if those pushbuttons are your piezo buttons, the microcontroller doesn't have enough analog inputs to read them all. They'll still only be on/off.
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Mar 1, 2019 12:30
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mewse posted:I'm slowly working my way thru a youtube series called "getting to blinky" about making a schematic + board layout using kicad He (Chris from Contextual Electronics) has quite a few good videos on his channel related to KiCad. Well worth checking out for anyone getting started with it.
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Mar 1, 2019 18:45
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poeticoddity posted:For on/off, a simple shift register will work. There are tons of 74HC595 examples with the Arduino. You can drive the Output Enable pin of the 595 with the PWM output of the Arduino (or whatever) directly, if you want them all the same level.
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Mar 26, 2019 14:32
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Bad Munki posted:Hold the leads in your mouth and give 'er a spin never take my advice My 7th grade science teacher had one, and would give an A to anyone who could hold the leads in their hands for one full crank of the handle. Even with 10 or 15 of us in series it was quite the tingle.
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Jul 9, 2019 14:44
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One Legged Ninja fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Jul 23, 2019 |
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Jul 23, 2019 03:05
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Bad Munki posted:I'm sure this comes up once in a while but the thread is almost 500 pages long, so: I got a Tekpower TP3005D-3 two years ago, and it's been pretty nice, but I've never used a high end supply, so I have nothing to compare it to. I swapped the pots out on one side to ten turn versions just for finer control, but most of the time the stock pots are more than adequate. There are other brands that are identical in appearance, but at the time this one was highly recommended.
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Aug 28, 2019 17:07
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And 
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Apr 12, 2020 02:09
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In case you need a visual reference to what everyone is saying, this page explains it.
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May 14, 2020 15:23
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I can't answer your question, but have you watched this video? It came up in my feed a few days ago. DigiKey doesn't have a filter smaller than 0.6", and those cost double digits.
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Jul 23, 2020 20:52
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Kreeblah posted:
What about designing a board with all the extras that you want, and just lay out some through holes for the entire Teensy to piggy back on it? Just treat it as another component. Or like an Arduino shield.
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Aug 27, 2020 02:36
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Kreeblah posted:I'm looking at this as a good opportunity to get some experience doing something new, though, Fair enough. As good a reason to do something as any.
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Aug 27, 2020 03:40
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Ambrose Burnside posted:
A few years ago I started working on a VFD clock powered via USB that used one timer from an ATMega 32u4 and a few components as a boost converter to power the tubes. It was only 30v, not 170, but it was plenty for the purpose. I never finished the project, but it did functionally display things after I fixed a couple mistakes on the board layout. I have it in my mind that I might redesign it to be modular some day.
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Sep 30, 2020 16:59
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I'm a relative novice, and I may have an incorrect understanding of MOSFETs, but couldn't you just power the gate of a P channel directly from the USB before the diode, and add a high value pull down? Unplugged, it would be low, connecting the battery, and plugged in, it would be nearly as high as the battery at full charge, shutting the FET off. No MCU pins needed for switching purposes. If you need to turn it off harder, use a charge pump as mentioned.
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Oct 29, 2020 21:24
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How about a roller/ball bearing with conductive grease? Pre-tension it to reduce any chance of arcing. It should be able to handle a couple amps easily. Edit: just keep it out of the solution so it doesn't seize.
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Jan 25, 2021 14:15
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MrOnBicycle posted:A new mosfet is cheap, but the shipping isn't Where have you looked? I see 10 packs on eBay for less than $5 shipped to the eastern US. You'll have to wait a few weeks before you can fix your tool, but your can't really beat the price.
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Jan 29, 2021 16:52
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Harvey Baldman posted:Question time!~ Your question seems to have been overlooked so far, but I don't really have any good advice. Are you sure you can comfortably breathe with just one filter while working? I could imagine it being possible to shrink everything into a small enough package to mount elsewhere on the mask while staying within a hobbyist's budget. 3D print a front cover from your favorite Star Wars/Mortal Kombat character, add some voice manipulation, Bob's your uncle.
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Mar 1, 2021 04:47
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I've heard it referring to power transmission lines, electric fences, and old car ignition parts.
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May 19, 2021 12:19
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VelociBacon posted:In any multi-battery case I'd expect you'd have to solder some little plates or wires to the battery terminals such that the current can pass from one to the next like it would in a parallel setup with batteries, and you'd just solder or clip the PSU wires onto the +/- sides. If I'm understanding you correctly: If it's a parallel battery connector, to get more capacity at the voltage of one battery (I haven't seen many devices like this) you shouldn't need to solder the terminals together, they should be one continuous contact already. If it's a series pack, to get more voltage at the same capacity, don't connect the spring terminals together. That would short the power supply and could range from not particularly good to a Bad Thing. The positive lead of the power supply goes to the most positive terminal, and the negative lead to the most negative terminal. That's all.
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Oct 26, 2021 19:25
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PoizenJam posted:
The size of a round LED refers to the diameter, not the height, so you'd probably get better results searching for 5mm and 3mm LEDs, respectively.
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Apr 12, 2022 11:00
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Shame Boy posted:, the ATMega328P. Plus it's one of the chips you can still get in DIP... Theoretically. After three months of shipping. For $10+ a piece. Yay, global shortages!
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Apr 26, 2022 11:53
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Every time I look at this photo I see something new. Better make sure your 555 is torqued to 225 ft/lbs before you hammer it home. And twist your wires together firmly with your linesman's. Also, there is an iron plugged into that 400° base. Is it the one being held? 
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Aug 15, 2022 00:07
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Stack Machine posted:Unless there's some internal calibration path, it took some effort to get that square wave on the screen with no probes connected. I think that, or maybe the hammer, is what tips the Poe's Law scale to parody for me. Can you view saved waveforms on that model? That's what I assumed it was, but my scope is from the 80's, so I don't know about them fancy new fangled options.
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Aug 15, 2022 16:34
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Just make a PCB front panel, then you don't need to learn any new software. 
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Oct 5, 2022 22:50
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ANIME AKBAR posted:There are lots of ways to approach it, depending on what your background is and what sort of circuits you only want to build. With no formal electronics training, and in my classic dive -headfirst-into-the-deep-end style, one of my first PCB designs was for a VFD tube clock, using an unused timer on an ATMega32u4 to drive a boost converter to make ~30v needed for the tubes from the 5v supply. Other than some beginner footprint mistakes, it worked well enough for the few mA I needed. I never did finish the clock, though. Too much scope creep and other shiny things distracting me from finishing the code side of things. So to reinforce what Akbar says, just start playing with things until it does what you want, then add features as needed.
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Nov 29, 2022 19:47
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Boxman posted:Arduino Leonardo In addition to what everyone else has said, you can search for a Pro Micro instead of a Leonardo. It's the same microcontroller in a smaller form factor with your choice of Mini/Micro/Type-C connector, for significantly less money than the full sized Leonardo. They're available on eBay for decent prices, or AliExpress for comically low prices, caveat emptor, of course. I've used them for several specialty controllers.
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Feb 18, 2023 01:33
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Just as a basic troubleshooting step, are you actually changing the target temperature of the 888D, and not the calibration? Not that I've ever made that mistake. 
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Apr 23, 2023 13:50
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Cojawfee posted:It's weird because this is for dimming lights in a car. I'm pretty sure halogen lights don't take kindly to rapidly being turned on and off. My 08 Wrangler uses PWM for the halogen headlights and fog lights, and I've only ever had one of each burn out since it was new. Edit: It's not a user accessible setting, and you'd never see it change, (at least in the US) but if you get into the CANbus you can change the values and toggle daytime running lights and whatnot. One Legged Ninja fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Aug 29, 2023 |
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Aug 29, 2023 18:13
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That's just your emergency egress lighting.
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Sep 1, 2023 17:56
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I've watched a couple of Dave's videos on it, though not the full length video in that link. Seems to be the new top contender for hobbyist level machine. I would sure love to replace my old Tektronix with it just so I don't have to have a dedicated area for it. He also confirmed that it can be unlocked to the 100MHz version.
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Sep 25, 2023 16:16
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I can't for the life of me remember where I saw it, but I saw someone design a board to mount on the outboard end of a NEMA 17 stepper to make it act like a servo. Electronoob maybe? I'll try to remember to find a link tonight. If I remember the details well enough, it seems like that would be potentially useful for your project.
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Jan 18, 2024 22:14
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Expo70 and Shame Boy posted:a question about steppers and servos I just got this short video about testing open and closed loop steppers and servos in my feed. He does a side-by-side thermal video of four different devices at idle current, and tests maximum acceleration and speed. Not the most exhaustive testing, and doesn't really answer your previous question, but interesting nonetheless. And he mentioned you can get closed-loop steppers premade on the usual Chinese sites. Edit: oops, I was phone posting and put the wrong link in. One Legged Ninja fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Jan 25, 2024 |
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Jan 25, 2024 04:04
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Shame Boy posted:Oh neat, thanks Oops, no, I was phone posting with a baby on the other arm and pasted the wrong link. Here's the right link.
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Jan 25, 2024 18:42
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some kinda jackal posted:I have a shower thought project that I'd like some advice on. I tore apart a standard USB A wall wart to wire it into a replica oil lantern that I turned into a lamp/night light. I printed a custom enclosure for it that was part of a larger piece that fit in the base, and plugged a set of string lights into it. You could probably get away with taking the prongs out and using the original case. However, if this typewriter already has a neon indicator, why not just use another neon for the pointer? BigClive shows how easy it is in one of his videos (I think that's the one, but I didn't watch it again to confirm.) I think it would match the vintage style more closely, if that matters. Edit: nm One Legged Ninja fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Mar 14, 2024 |
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Mar 14, 2024 16:38
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