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Alarbus posted:Yeah, factory interval on the N52 (non turbo) was 100k, but N54 (two turbos) was 50k, and a lot of people bitched because they had to spend $100 on plugs early. I don't see why the N55 or B58 would be any longer than 50k. I've got the N54 and I can attest the plugs need to be changed pretty early (stutter/misfire). I had to replace mine at ~68k (not sure the last time they were replaced prior to that as I bought the car at 63k) and just replaced them again at 117k. The plugs on it aren't bad at all. I didn't need a wobble extension. As far as the brakes, I've done both fronts and rears, and they are very straight forward. For the love of god don't pay dealership prices for that (mine wanted $800 to do just the rear rotors and pads).
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Jan 25, 2018 14:03
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Residency Evil posted:Put some winter tires on and drive your cars in the winter you babies. Winter tires? And miss out on all the fun of not being able to pull out of the driveway on my summer tires when a 1/16" of snow falls?
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Oct 24, 2018 14:12
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I finally got my E90 into the dealership to address the blower motor recall. I towed it there because I had actually seen smoke.  Turns out I have a valve cover gasket leak that is leaking onto the exhaust. Quoted cost to replace at the dealership was over $1,300, nearly all labor. I'll be getting the car back this Saturday (the dealership is 1.5 hours from home) then doing the gasket replacement myself, because screw $1,300 for a valve cover gasket.
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May 17, 2019 02:30
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meatpimp posted:Be ready to replace the valve cover, too. It's probably cracked.
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May 20, 2019 17:13
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Started the valve cover gasket job yesterday. Helpful tip: label maker for the win to label the ignition coils and fuel lines to keep the same order. Good news! The cover isn't cracked. Gratuitous naked N54 shot:  Current status is the new gasket is in place, valve cover is back on, bolts are in, and about half are torqued down. So far the only lost part is a wire retaining clip for wiring connection which BMW decided to not make captive for some reason. Hopefully it's in the under tray.
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May 22, 2019 12:39
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nadmonk posted:Started the valve cover gasket job yesterday. Valve job on the N54 is done. I found out my torque wrench is cheap enough to doesn't go below 10 ft lbs. Mid way point of putting it all back together:  Old gasket is predictably brittle and cracked apart when removing. Thankfully none was completely stuck to the cover or the head. A wipe down of the head with rag sprayed with a touch of brake cleaner took the little bit of gunk off.  I wasn't able to find the wire retaining clip for one of the wiring connectors on the passenger side of the engine. I was able to bend a paper clip into shape, which appears to be retaining it properly. The entire end can be had for a couple bucks, but until that gets here, it will hold it fine. A test drive with a proper warm up followed by some moderately spirited driving brought up no alerts, no smoke, no fresh oil smells. I think I can consider this job done. Next up: Install the Koni Special Actives sitting in my barn.
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May 23, 2019 14:34
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Deadguy2322 posted:So, my wife’s 328i is giving vibration up the steering column under acceleration, but not at cruise. Any ideas? I'm not sure I'd really call what I had vibration, but I definitely experienced shuddering under acceleration when my spark plugs needed to be replaced. Eventually I got misfire codes, but not right away. Maybe a bad U-joint / bent axle? Worn motor mount? Just spit balling.
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May 23, 2019 18:03
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rscott posted:So rally drivers should be giving their navigators acid a la Dune? Yes. Also, hell yes.
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May 25, 2019 15:41
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The battery in my E90 335i decided it had enough sitting around and decided to give up the ghost. Pulled it out, put it on the charger overnight, even after that as soon as I got the charger off and started measuring the voltage, I could see it steadily drop at a rather rapid rate. Thankfully it was a decent Interstate battery and I was able to get a like for like swap. I got it in, it's not giving me any battery messages or anything. But one question for BMW:  Why so many positive terminals?
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May 15, 2020 22:06
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Cojawfee posted:You need to get the battery coded in because it's still thinking it's an older battery. It should just need a registration, not a recode since it's the same make and model. It's not like it's being driven anytime soon, might get to that this weekend.
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May 15, 2020 22:49
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After poking around to see if I could get Carly, Deep ODB, and ISTA/INPA to work with my Bluetooth ELM ODBII adaptor, I remembered I actually do have an OpenFlash tablet for my 2008 E90 335i. I figured it might have a battery reset function on it:  So I'm in luck! I'll have to get it out to stretch its legs. Since I am using the same brand and model of battery (Interstate MTP-49/H8) there isn't a need to recode for a different battery, just reset it. I will likely still order a K+CAN/K+DCAN cable for it, given that they aren't terribly expensive and removes the PITA that is trying to get 3rd party Bluetooth ODBII readers to connect to whatever apps are out there. Does anyone have recommendations for a particular K+DCAN USB cable? Poking around they generally all look about the same. This one at least seems more forthright about the fact the software comes on a sketchy burned DVD: https://www.amazon.com/LZLRUN-Diagn...89921891&sr=8-2 nadmonk fucked around with this message at 12:36 on May 20, 2020 |
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May 20, 2020 12:34
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I ended up going with this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-K-DCAN...872.m2749.l2649 I'm sure it is actually identical to the Amazon one, but hey, at least this way Amazon doesn't get a cut. Also, something about paying a few dollars more plays psychological tricks on me making me feel like it will be more skookum.
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May 20, 2020 14:20
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This isn't really a BMW specific thing, but it works so perfectly for the E90, I had to share. My E90 is a 2008 and even if I added the factory BlueTooth I would only get phone audio, no streaming audio, so that was a nonstarter. I don't have any desire to swap the stereo at the moment either. I've been using a BlueTooth receiver / FM transmitter to reduce cable clutter, but the DC connection was a little loose and if you bumped it while shifting, it would turn off and back on, also a bit bulky.  Randomly, I read about the Tunai Firefly BT receiver and it looked about perfect.  Power from USB, receives BlueTooth, and outputs audio to Aux. It does include a longer Aux cable if you need it, but it fits absolutely perfectly in the console of the E90: 
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Jun 23, 2020 15:17
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Residency Evil posted:
I believe factory bluetooth audio streaming capabilities were added in 2011.
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Jun 23, 2020 15:35
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Alarbus posted:It's a trade off - better looking dash or streaming audio. Use the Firefly, better looking dash AND streaming audio.
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Jun 23, 2020 17:59
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PabloBOOM posted:I have thoroughly enjoyed my 2009 335i convertible for the few weeks I've owned it. It has even been assembled and driven 75% of those weeks! I have a 2008 335i sedan with manual and the sport package. I love that car and will fight anyone that tried to take it. Personally, I love the N54. Some of the issues with it were addressed in recalls, others.... Well let's just say you should do your research and keep your eyes on it and give it the attention it needs. A lot of the other stuff is just regular BMW type stuff. I will say, my N54 (running a stage 1 off the shelf tune) does like nice fresh spark plugs. Getting more power out of that is remarkably easy and cheap. I'm not sure how it compares to newer 3 series, but my E90 seems to have body roll under control. But some of that may come from having the sport package. I also swapped on Koni Special Active shocks and struts last year. Now if you weren't married to the idea of having a BMW engine, you could pick up an E9x and swap in an LS and transmission. They already make kits for that. If my N54 dies, that will likely be my route (honestly, it might be anyways given how cheap E9xs can be had).
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Jun 30, 2020 12:21
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glyph posted:e90 328s are worth $12k? Is it the mileage? (i didn't check options) Because that seems really high for an 11 year old midrange car. It looks like KBB has that mileage and options with an "excellent" condition at $9,255-11,646. So not completely out of line, still seems pretty high to me though.
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Jul 8, 2020 20:07
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I finally got around to do the clutch delay valve delete on my 2008 335i. All of the procedures I've found on line indicate this is an easy job. It very well may be if you don't rocket one of the clips across the garage and end up leaking out a fair amount of brake / clutch fluid before you can reinstall the clip. The CDV just sits inline between a flex hose and a hard line going to the slave cylinder. In theory, you should be able to pop them apart and back together quickly. If you got just a little air in the line, the bleeder right there would probably be fine. I lost enough fluid there was no way pumping the clutch pedal would bleed the line, it just popped to the floor. Thankfully, I just got this bad boy last week:  The power bleeder was an absolute life saver and made this super fast. I have seen many complaints that the bleeder is a total pain to get to. This is one of those jobs where (I feel) an offset box wrench is 100% required.  There wasn't a ton of space for actually rotating the wrench, maybe about 10 degrees, but actually reaching and getting it on the bleeder wasn't difficult. I'm not sure it would be possible with a normal wrench without significantly more swearing. Where the flex line meets the hard line at the middle -bottom of the picture is where the CDV used to live. Mmmmm, forbidden chicken stock:  Don't worry, it didn't come out that dirty, I just use that container for everything. Clutch feel is so much better with the CDV gone. Before, there was always this weird feeling like you had to be a little slow in letting it engage. So my own takeaways: 1. Offset wrenches will save you 2. Have a power bleeder on hand Up next is probably a rear diff service. It's got about 126,000 miles on it.
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Mar 22, 2021 13:30
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