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Guitarchitect posted:holy hell you're making me want a lathe. There's nothing I would like more right now than a beautiful wood coffee cup with the right contour/weight/balance http://rizaydog.webs.com/treadlelathebuild.htm I will make this one day.
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Sep 17, 2012 03:05
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Blistex posted:If there is one thing this project has taught me, it's that you can never have too many clamps.
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Oct 30, 2012 23:53
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http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/Uploads/Public/Documents/ShopTricksBook.pdf Bunch of tips and tricks that im sure most of you know, but I didnt.
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Jan 15, 2013 04:10
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I have been going through the wood whisperers videos, but am finding its really geared and aimed at power tools. Are there any that are aimed more at hand tool usage?
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Jan 22, 2013 01:34
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Cheers. Made my first bench hook last night from one that LieNielsenToolworks youtube. Slapped together an aviary thats really poo poo, but birdproof. Going to work on version 2.0 once I have some more practise at various things like dowel joints. Now that I have a drill bit for dowels that is actually straight, they should be a bit neater.
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Jan 23, 2013 01:59
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How big a motor would you need to drive something like that?
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Jan 23, 2013 05:22
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I would go out and get decent wood glue that doesnt expand and stick properly to hardwood. I had a bad experience with that poo poo just not sticking, and what was supposed to be a nice door just falling apart whenever you put any pressure on the joins.
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Jan 30, 2013 04:57
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Was out walking the dog when I saw a load of wood maybe 50m from my front door step. Someone must have taken down a pergola or something, because I walked away with 10 lengths of 1.5m-1.6m * 10cm * 5cm hardwood, plus probably about 5 half lengths. Should keep me going for projects for a while. Must be about $200-$300 bucks worth at least.
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Jan 30, 2013 15:19
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Any recommendations for circular saws in the midrange price bracket? Cant quite afford a festool yet, and Im in Australia to complicate things. Thinking about $300-$500.
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Feb 19, 2013 03:53
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asdf32 posted:Circular saw for 3-5 hundred? Am I missing something? Frogmanv2 posted:Im in Australia I have never seen a dewalt, milwaukee or festool in a store. We get ryobi, bosch, ozito, makita and other generic/rebadges. I could order them in, probably, but without knowing much about circular saws I would be guessing.
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Feb 21, 2013 00:42
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Bad Munki posted:If those are your only choices, I'd be most likely to trust the bosch. Far, far less likely to trust the ryobi. Makita used to be great, I don't know how they are these days, probably still good. Never heard of ozito. Ozito is the poo poo level entry disposable stuff. Was looking at a Makita, might as well go for that then.
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Feb 21, 2013 02:34
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[t img] that image before you get a forced vacation.
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Apr 8, 2013 03:20
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wormil posted:I'm a little skeptical of how those sides hang out there with little support.
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Jun 6, 2013 08:10
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Sylink posted:After watching some videos/reading I think the thin edges will not be too much of a problem, but for the faces is it just going to be a matter of hard work and determination along with a large hand plane? What sizes should I consider purchasing for a general set? Ideally I would like just 2 planers (one small one big) that I can use across a variety for widths but I dont expect to work on any single board wider than ten inches. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cl5Srx-Ru_U He goes into what jacks he uses at about 4:30, but its a #5 1/2 jack plane and a #4 smoothing plane.
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Jul 2, 2013 10:38
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Baby steps. I just finished my first project that included lovely joinery, and not just screwing blocks of wood together. Its a simple kitchen hutch and im still not happy with how it turned out, but its functional, and I can finish that project and think about it for a bit and then come back to it after practising everything a lot more. And sharpening my saw. And labelling my coffee jars so I dont mistake the varnish for the stain. And remember to label stuff better, or take pictures or something so I remember what way everything fits back together after I take it apart to varnish it. Next I get to make a door for an aviary.
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Jul 10, 2013 01:33
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Spikes32 posted:What hopefully cheap piece of equipment should I actually be using? I live in an apartment and do work on the balcony, just as an fyi. Below are some photos of what I've already done. Thanks! You could do that with a $10 chisel and mallet, plus the sander you already have. Might take a few to get them nice and accurate, but if you get a chisel the exact width of the grooves you want, that will make it a lot easier. Mark out where you want to cut out, then define the edges with your chisel with a light hit or two to start with, then start working it out. There are plenty of youtube clips that show you how to cut a mortise. Or, you could get some sort of guide system for your dremel. Do you have the router attachment?
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Aug 2, 2013 03:45
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Spikes32 posted:though I will need to get some clamps to keep it set when I work.
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Aug 2, 2013 11:19
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Dont worry, I would be posting the poo poo out of that restoration everywhere I could as well. Amazing job.
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Sep 10, 2013 15:48
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You have no idea how jealous I am that you can pick up a bandsaw for less than $100.
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Sep 24, 2013 02:00
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wormil posted:Where do you live? Around here, finding a bandsaw for under $100 is easy. Im moving to a town called Albany. On gumtree (our sort of craigslist) the closest bandsaw for sale is 350km away and is $550 for a 14" model.
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Sep 24, 2013 12:17
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Blistex posted:When are they going to officially change the name to "Price-gouge-istan"? It seems that anything hobby related in Australia is 3-5x more than anywhere else on earth. I guess having a small population on the far side of the planet from the majority of electrically-powered hobby woodworkers doesn't help. Its really hosed sometimes. If I go to the Adobe website and buy the US version of something and download it and install it, its usually about a 40% discount to the Australian website version. Adobe came out and said that the price differential was because of the localisation options they have built into the website. Its slowly, glacially slowly, getting better. I still get loving jealous when you jerks say poo poo like "I picked up a router for $20" or "Around here, finding a bandsaw for under $100 is easy." or "there was 3 pages of craigslist entries, and I have narrowed my search down to these ones......" Of course, the up side of this is that I dont live in America.
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Sep 24, 2013 13:44
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kafkasgoldfish posted:I selfishly agree. Motion thirded and passed.
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Oct 28, 2013 09:21
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calcio posted:Any good links and/or tips for making picture frames? I have a miter saw, a table saw and a router. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ibr_7n5ReM I have been making a few, though not exactly picture frames, and picked up a bit from this video. Making sure you are at exactly the right angle of cut is the single most important thing imo, followed by accurate length cutting. Get those two right and they should all fit together neatly. If they dont, put a clamp over the diagonal and apply pressure to bring them all together accurately.
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Oct 29, 2013 02:24
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Wandering Orange posted:No one is being a dick and there's been a ton of good ideas and recommendations. The reason I posted in the first place was cause I had trouble visualizing how I was going to assemble everything with 1/2" ply; I didn't start with 3/4" ply because I honestly thought 1/2" would be sufficiently strong given the requirements. Since secure joints are a part of 'sufficiently strong' and neither are possible with 1/2" ply, okay, redesign. I vote for an internal brace of structural pine, and use your ply idea to make the sides and stuff. Used that way it will help strengthen it. I would strongly recommend a lip of some sorts to keep the tank in place as well.
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Nov 14, 2013 05:21
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pageerror404 posted:Im finally getting around to setting up a little shop in my apartment. I'm curious what you guys use for tool sharpening. I found this interesting oil stone set on amazon that's intended for chefs knife sharpening. I'm wondering if it would work just as well for chisels or plane blades. Overkill imo. I use 3 water stones that cost about $30aud each, after trying scary sharp. Would be better spent getting a good veritas honing guide and water stones I think.
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Nov 20, 2013 01:29
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pageerror404 posted:What brand of stones and what grits? One coarse to grind a new bevel if needed, one medium to touch up to an acceptable standard and one fine if I want a really sharp chisel for some delicate work. Brand doesnt really matter, and like everyone says, its really a case of what works for you. I dont like using loud grinders, so unless im touching up turning chisels and I need to do it repeatedly in a short amount of time, I use quieter methods, but a decent grinder with a coarse wheel and a polishing wheel will do the job in a lot shorter amount of time.
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Nov 20, 2013 04:44
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QPZIL posted:YES! I knew I knew the word, I just forgot it, so my googling wasn't working well Get good with a chisel then, because you are going to be doing a lot of it. You can get hand planes that will do it as well.
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Nov 21, 2013 02:57
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Sylink posted:I'll have to check, I will probably go with poplar because my last few experiences with pine have been less than stellar. Dont scrimp on safety with things that can very very very easily take off a finger or worse. Whats $100ish compared to using your hands for the rest of your life?
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Jan 1, 2014 09:08
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I started reading up on dust control and the best way to get rid of it and the more I read the more I was horrified, especially when I got to the bit that told me how much dust would contaminate a given area to harmful levels. Turns out its sweet gently caress all, in the range of grams per cubic meter. http://www.woodworkforums.com/f200/generic-2hp-dc-171247/index5.html Thats a thread where BobL does some modifications to a generic dusty thats common in Aus and makes it actually usable. Its probably not the same DC you have, but the ideas should transfer over. Venting outside is one of the best things you can do, along with increasing the hose size to something that can support the required CFM. BobL gets really really really into his DC, so if you do a search for more posts by him, you will find some gems of information there.
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Jan 11, 2014 12:54
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Tindjin posted:Any tricks for taking off a corner of square piece of wood like a 4x4? Part of the issues is that I only need to do it to about 1/4 of it's length. Set your table saw blade to the required angle and add a stop block at the required length.
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Jan 20, 2014 06:05
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I have heard festool routers aren't that great. If you are going to be splashing out on quality, get a triton. http://www.woodworkforums.com/f13/best-1-2-inch-plunge-router-180740/ That thread might help.
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Jan 22, 2014 07:07
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swampface posted:These Narex chisels from highland woodworking are pretty good: Hahaha "proper" 
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Feb 25, 2014 03:23
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The best bit is that America notionally follows the metric system. It's just that an entire nation went "Nah, fuckit, it's too difficult." and they kept using the British system, only they kept the old units and definitions, instead of the ones updated in the 1800s. It's ok though. It's not like any space ships have crashed because of it.
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Feb 26, 2014 02:12
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I vote router sled.
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Mar 10, 2014 12:45
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A most productive day. They are doing work on the power poles outside my house so no power tools worked till a short time ago, so I decided to finally tune up the #4 Stanley that has been sitting in my cabinet for ages. Sharpened the blade, flattened the sole, swapped the handle to one that doesn't give me blisters and now I'm making near see through shavings and giggling at how much easier it is to use. Plus I found out my new jigsaw will handle the jarrah that's been sitting in my wood pile for ages, so I can finally use that for something. Then I got a call back about the job I went for at a hardware store, and I'm going in for an interview soon.
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Mar 18, 2014 05:55
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You can make your own bar clamps with some wood, a bit of threaded rod and a bit of dowel. It's a useful project. I have a few of those Irwin clamps. They are useful and better quality than others I have bought.
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Apr 1, 2014 15:49
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Walked posted:Will do. You will need to make some accommodation for the movement of wood between the seasons and moisture levels of where you are. Floating bread board does this fairly well. You can clean up the surfaces fairly well with a hand plane. Most places won't let you run recycled wood through a thicknesser cos of the chance of a nail or some gravel screwing up the blades.
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Apr 3, 2014 15:45
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So can you damage wood or glue by soaking it in metho for too long? I need to strip back the finish on a bunch of picture frames, and doing each of them one by one takes too long, and I have a supply of metho and both of the finishes say to clean up with metho.
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Apr 10, 2014 03:16
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You would be surprised at how little space you need in a shed for a usable work space, especially if you don't have a bench yet. A good first project is to make your own bench so you can choose the dimensions to fit. Just make sure you can get it out the door, or make it so it's easily dismantled. If you aren't making huge pieces, you don't need a huge amount of space.
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Apr 19, 2014 14:02
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So what's a good way to dry out a couple of thin slabs or platters of wood? Maybe 3cm thick and just sawed off a tree.
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May 8, 2014 23:59
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