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STR posted:I know at least with Honda Civics, the coupes tended to be significantly heavier than the SEDANS (by a few hundred pounds), between the much heavier doors/side impact beams and I assume a beefier B pillar. I assume that's also the case here? Seat Safety Switch posted:Yes. The 2.5RS coupes are heavier than even the wagons in 98-01, so it's probably similar in the Aus/Japanese market's equivalent chassis. The coupes are heavier but the difference in the raw shell is marginal. If anything the coupe's are more structurally strong - the GC/GF/GM shells aren't exactly over engineered. The difference really is in the trim levels - the 2.5 RS for instance is a higher trim level so that mostly gives you the extra weight. The WRX STI two doors were heavier mostly down to Subaru throwing in absolutly everything in them they could offer at the time. They also had the R180 diff, heavier gearboxes, better quality carpets and so on, there's no interior stripping going on at all - 60G's for a Subaru was a fuckton of money in 1998 for a Subaru so it better have everything! Where you look at the difference between the WRX STI and the WRX RA is that the RA is the stripper model - lightwieght glass, panels, no intrusion bars, lighter roof, alloy boot, lightweight interior, no sound deading etc. Now some WRX STI's picked up the lightweight panels but for the AU cars they all still had intrusion bars and the heavier glass so they are in fact the heaviest GC/GM8 chassis of them all. Which is all relative as the classics are all light and the extra 50Kw the WRX STI's had made them all considerably faster than a stock GC8 WRX. And thats still 200kgs lighter than the following GD chassis WRX STI's as the v5 WRX STI was still only 1270kgs* Also of note that the v5 WRX STI had a readline of 8200rpm. (*) You need a AWD BRX to be that light these days
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May 26, 2020 21:52
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simplefish posted:$2750 to do the head gaskets Update: $3100 for everything: New radiator, 2nd hand engine with half the mileage of mine - all fitted and tax included
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May 27, 2020 13:19
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For context, I did an EJ25D gasket job on a 98 outback for about $1200 myself. This included new seals, gaskets, water pump, belts, and head machining. And I apparently paid a lot to do it, but this also included the tools needed to do it. I was quoted a few gasket jobs for under $2000.
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May 27, 2020 13:49
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I just put new tires on my 16 WRX in prep for summer finally. Not sure if anyone has done brakes on an FA WRX, but it desperately needs pads and maybe calipers as well. I'm thinking I'm just gonna go OEM, but I vaguely recall 18 pads had less fade and were better in general. Are there any after market options for pads/rotors/calipers that are markedly better than OEM? I don't really track this and I want to stay away from squeals, so hardcore Hawk pads are probably not what I'm trying to go for. Just trying to get a good balance of streetability/longetivity.
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May 29, 2020 00:55
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Jamal hooked me up with Ferodo pads a while back. They make no noise, but are extra dusty. This is specifically the package he built for me: https://www.functionauto.com/index.php/2015-wrx/brakes/dba-fer-2015wrx.html The pads are Ferodo DS2500, if that's all you need.
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May 29, 2020 01:32
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um excuse me posted:Jamal hooked me up with Ferodo pads a while back. They make no noise, but are extra dusty. gently caress yeah, thanks dude. I'll research this one a bit. Not sure if you had much experience running with it, but would be very curious on your experience. Also - how did your swap end up going?
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May 29, 2020 02:34
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I've been on these pads for roughly 10,000 miles. Did a few autocross events on them. They perform well but I can't honestly say I've brought them to the performance limit where they really step up over factory pads. Like I mentioned earlier, dust output is noticeably higher than stock, but they're definitely not the worst I've ever seen. Washing the wheels once a week will keep them clean if you care enough to do it but 2015+ wheels are grey so it hides well. After nuking my motor I am very cautiously adding on a few other reliability modifications that I'll post about in the future. After that track days are on the table as the motor, brakes, and suspension are all finally going to be up to the task and I'll be able to report actual performance differences. The new motor has been good to me so far. Went through the entire winter with it. Start ups take five minutes for the coolant needle to move, which I am advised is when I can drive it since I run forged rods now. I commute 60 miles a day and haven't noticed anything unusual. The new motor has 5000 miles on it at this point with a single oil change if you don't count the break in. Oil change intervals are 3000 miles with this engine but even with my moderate commute it hasn't been inconvenient. I'm currently biding my time, waiting for somebody to step up and sell a full bolt on port injection kit that's not a hacked up BRZ job. When that happens, I'll really open up the potential of the motor. May need to do an STI drivetrain swap to support it.
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May 29, 2020 03:09
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Jamal hooked it up with the Ferodo's on my VA as well and pretty much what um excuse me said. Pretty good and a little dusty but way less dusty than the Hawk street/race I used to have. Other question: How safe is the Cobb OTS tune? Car is stock engine/exhaust wise so it would pretty much just be to shoo away the rev-hang.
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May 29, 2020 20:30
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The OTS stage 1 tune is safe. It's actually a little conservative, most people report more power gains out of a custom pro tune, meaning Cobb is leaving power (read: timing) on the table. Stage 1+ and 2+ are decent too, however they get temperamental with non-cobb upgrades like the ETS exhaust I ended up going with.
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May 29, 2020 21:53
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What are considered safe oil temps? It's getting warm here and I'm seeing the oil go above 212F now, whereas before when it was cold it, it usually wouldn't break 200F.
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May 29, 2020 23:11
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This is more a general car question but does anyone have a good way to clean some light carbon buildup off the aluminum heads at the exhaust manifold while the engine is in the car? In the past with torn down engines I'd do a soak but I can't really soak in this situation. I'd like the mating surface of the header to be a little cleaner I think before I reattach it
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Jun 4, 2020 17:02
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Does anyone know off the top of their head how the '99 rear CV axles are secured on an Impreza? I'm having a hard time seeing, but the fronts were a pain in the rear end roll pin. I'm trying to get the front lateral link off, and the inboard bolt is too close to the cv axle for me to get my breaker bar on it. I tried jacking the hub up by the bracket that houses the big bolt securing the lateral link, but even at full strut compression it doesn't seem to be enough. I wish I had gotten some 90 degree impact extensions, but I don't have the money to buy any tools right now. Might ask a friend if he has any. E: Actually, would the CV axle be able to rotate at all if it was still secured in the hub? If not I could just do that, assuming that there's enough lateral play in the hub right now, which I suspect there is with all the stabilizers except for the trailing arm removed.
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Jun 5, 2020 01:05
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Does anyone know off the top of their head how the '99 rear CV axles are secured on an Impreza? I'm having a hard time seeing, but the fronts were a pain in the rear end roll pin. I'm trying to get the front lateral link off, and the inboard bolt is too close to the cv axle for me to get my breaker bar on it. I tried jacking the hub up by the bracket that houses the big bolt securing the lateral link, but even at full strut compression it doesn't seem to be enough. 1) The stub axle on the rear is a circlip inside the diff. 2) Are you doing the lateral link or the trailing arm? Either way I'm quite getting why the axle is fouling in such a way it needs to come off?
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Jun 5, 2020 02:20
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I'm doing the lateral links and trailing arm, just replacing the bushings in each because they're old enough to drink now. Here's a picture of the forward of the two lateral links:  And here's two pictures of the outside of the trailing arm bolt, I thought I got a picture of the inside but the angle is awkward so even I can't tell what I'm looking at. On the far left side you can see how the inside of the bolt has some kind of line (I'm guessing either brake fluid or ABS sensor) going about 1" away from it. 
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Jun 5, 2020 03:46
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You might hate me when I mention that rubber cap on the other side of the lateral link bolt can be easily removed by a screwdriver and you can much easier get to the nut it's on top of. The front of the trailing has three bolts connecting it to the shell that might be easier to work on too.
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Jun 5, 2020 04:36
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Motherfuck. That might help. I'll be able to put a combination wrench over the one with no room and use the breaker bar on the other one.
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Jun 5, 2020 07:09
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Double post, but turns out that even after taking the cap off I've got no room on that side to fit a socket either. Now I've got an impact wrench, ho ho ho.
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Jun 5, 2020 23:57
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Those rear axles are gently pried out , and then you just snap them back in.
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Jun 6, 2020 22:00
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07 WRX here - Noticing a slight blip/lag in acceleration that shows up when my engine is cold. It's pretty pronounced when I'm being gentle with the gas, kinda right before the turbo starts kicking in. It's also accompanied with a slight squeak "psst" sound (not the turbo blowoff) From what I can tell the internet is telling me it's a fuel filter/pump/injection issue. Edit: did some testing and it seems it’s my AC compressor (or something related). Turning the AC off the squeaking stops and immediately starts when I turn it back on. Edit 2: AC Compressor. Dealership also found a leaking rack/pinion so they're replacing both. Thank god I bought that extended warranty program! DevCore fucked around with this message at 08:13 on Jun 12, 2020 |
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Jun 7, 2020 07:35
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What is the rubber part on the top of the strut where the top of the spring mounts? Goes between the strut mount that bolts into the body of the car and the coil spring. I didn't remember those being there until I pulled the strut out, so I didn't get replacements. They seem kind of dry on exposed surfaces, would chrome-moly-graphite lube be good to apply or would that just attract more grit to mess it up? Are there any good replacements out there? I don't know that I will unless I get string alignment worked out. Or is it not something that I would need to replace, even 20-21 years later? The rubber where the spring contacts it looks drat near new.
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Jun 11, 2020 10:25
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22 Eargesplitten posted:What is the rubber part on the top of the strut where the top of the spring mounts? Goes between the strut mount that bolts into the body of the car and the coil spring. I didn't remember those being there until I pulled the strut out, so I didn't get replacements. They seem kind of dry on exposed surfaces, would chrome-moly-graphite lube be good to apply or would that just attract more grit to mess it up? That is the strut mount/strut bearing/strut hat, it dampens the shock loading between the suspension assembly and the strut tower on the chassis. They're about $50 a piece (for good AM, like Moog or Monroe) and while you can reuse them, without seeing them it's hard to make a call. If they're truly that old tho I'd replace them. Once worn they can allow too much movement in the camber direction and wear your tires extra (and hurt fuel economy), sometimes add steering play, and can sometimes be the source of a suspension clunk. If you already have the strut out it's easy to do, so I'd do it. I literally just did mine because I refreshed the front suspension on my rallycross car and when I inspected with a flashlight they looked okay but when I pulled on the strut it was clear there was play in the tower. I have to mention too, don't just settle for a home toe alignment with strings, that is enough to get you to the alignment shop for a better job. You'll be affecting camber by pulling the struts and reinstalling and unless you have a kit to handle camber measurement as well, you should not just leave that part as is. It is possible to do at home, just not with a string.
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Jun 11, 2020 14:24
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:don't just settle for a home toe alignment with strings, that is enough to get you to the alignment shop for a better job. You'll be affecting camber by pulling the struts and reinstalling and unless you have a kit to handle camber measurement as well, you should not just leave that part as is. It is possible to do at home, just not with a string. I really do need to counter that. Rally teams do alignments with string in the middle of a cold wet service camp and it comes up as good as you get on a 20 grand aligment machine. And to be honest, working out camber isn't that hard to do either - home alignment is more than acceptible, it's just like any car job - plan it, take your time and it'll work.
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Jun 12, 2020 00:00
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:I really do need to counter that. Rally teams do alignments with string in the middle of a cold wet service camp and it comes up as good as you get on a 20 grand aligment machine. And to be honest, working out camber isn't that hard to do either - home alignment is more than acceptible, it's just like any car job - plan it, take your time and it'll work. As a rallycross car owner and rally team crew member, I agree that the "string" method is fine for racing. Most teams use toe/camber plates though. I have a set myself and find I can get within .5 degrees usually, both toe and camber. Presumably this poster doesn't want to shred tires like we do though. Just get a camber measuring instrument, the string won't work for camber. I just wanted to inform them they should inspect and calibrate camber as well, since a strut job affects more than just toe. I didn't mean to insinuate that only a special machine could do it.
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Jun 12, 2020 02:39
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:As a rallycross car owner and rally team crew member, I agree that the "string" method is fine for racing. Most teams use toe/camber plates though. I have a set myself and find I can get within .5 degrees usually, both toe and camber. Presumably this poster doesn't want to shred tires like we do though. Just get a camber measuring instrument, the string won't work for camber. I just wanted to inform them they should inspect and calibrate camber as well, since a strut job affects more than just toe. I didn't mean to insinuate that only a special machine could do it. Just to continue the going off track (see what I did there?) - In racing/rallying I would consider that it needs to be more accurate than on the street. Street aligments have a lot of +- to them that I wouldn't accept on any of the rally cars I've had. There really isnt a lot of camber adjust on the front of a Subaru so just cranking to max on the eccentric bolts then bringing one side back to match the other is not going to get you tyre trouble some alignment String /ruler/level is more than cool to accurately get you 1mm increments of toe and to adjust camber/ castor to be spot on. The real skill with aligning is patience and willingness to make the tiiiiny adjustments needed whatever way you have, be it laser, string etc. TBH the most garbage tyre burning alignments Ive had came from Subaru.
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Jun 12, 2020 13:54
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As far as a level, you mean one of the bubble float type things like you use in construction to match the camber? I do plan on adjusting camber, definitely. Jamal has been helping me a little bit through email, he said to just crank the camber as much as possible with the parts he sent me and then dial it back so they match. Caster isn't adjustable either, he just said to jam the control arm as far forward as I can for the ALK, and the pedder front mounts will add a fixed amount of caster. I guess I should still measure that and adjust the rear sway bar bushings in the oblong holes if it's too far off. The struts have actually been the least painful part of this whole process, probably because they've all been changed out in the past so they don't have as much crap fusing them together. There's a couple bolts that a 250lbft impact wrench won't get loose on the rear suspension, and trying to drop the gearbox crossmember to install the ALK one of those bolts needed an overnight soak in PB blaster and I'll see if that helps. I've got a friend coming today with an Earthquake, and he's been looking for an excuse to pick up one of those Milwaukee M18 electric impacts with 1400lbft if that doesn't work (or alternately we just chop the bolt with a sawzall, hammer the remnants out, and replace it with a new one). So if I have to replace the top rubber and metal part, that's not as big of a deal, getting the strut out has been easy on all of them so far. Part 10 here is the part that's old, I didn't get a new one with the KYB strut mounts I got for some reason. Ignore the red circle, this was just the first diagram I found on a search. 
22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Jun 12, 2020 |
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Jun 12, 2020 15:48
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Subaru calls that spring insulator. Aftermarket from Rockauto is like $15, and the OEM part number from this diagram is 20323FA000. There should be a rubber perch/seat/seal underneath as well though, where the spring seats into the upper assembly. I've reused these in the past but I've heard it can be a source of a clunk if it is badly dry rotted. $5 on Rockauto, Subaru P/N is 20325FA000.
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Jun 12, 2020 22:15
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Is there a good fast way to redo the suspension mounts? I paid a buddy to do struts and shocks but the problem wheel has a groan when it is compressed that the other doesn't and it sounds like it's coming from top ish of the spring/strut I'll put it on the list. Pretty sure I need to do bearings too anyway. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 07:03 on Jun 13, 2020 |
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Jun 12, 2020 22:53
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Good and fast like without removing the strut and compressing the spring? You'll have to compress the spring at the very least, and doing that and disconnecting from the mount while attached to the car seems like it would be pretty difficult (impossible? Never tried). I would just pull the strut assembly, it's not super difficult if you've had them off recently because you won't have to break a bunch of rusty bolts loose.
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Jun 12, 2020 23:26
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:Subaru calls that spring insulator. Aftermarket from Rockauto is like $15, and the OEM part number from this diagram is 20323FA000. There should be a rubber perch/seat/seal underneath as well though, where the spring seats into the upper assembly. I've reused these in the past but I've heard it can be a source of a clunk if it is badly dry rotted. $5 on Rockauto, Subaru P/N is 20325FA000. Thanks. I'll order replacements, for now I'll just hit it with silicone spray. Anyone who has done the lateral links in a first-gen Impreza, how? On the right side, there's no room for a straight shot on the front one with an air tool, and a u-joint has to bend too much to get enough torque, even with a wrench on the front side. Not enough room for a breaker bar without removing the brake drum. On the driver's side, the exhaust is in the way of the rear lateral link and the front has the same room issue as the passenger side. I'm not dropping the exhaust right now because that's the one spot on my car aside from the drum brakes that has significant rust and I don't want to risk breaking the exhaust. On the bright side, judging by the one lateral link I got out of the car, those bushings aren't bad at all, whereas the trailing arms, which I was able to get off, were an absolute mess. I might just save the lateral link bushings until I can afford to have someone do them for me, since they aren't in too bad shape to begin with. The trailing arms, ALK, struts, and rear subframe lockdown bolts should make a significant difference anyway.
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Jun 13, 2020 15:13
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86 Brakes: I’m going to need at least 18” wheels if I ever want a big brake kit or am able to finagle a dealer to get me the Brembos that come with the TRD Performance Package, aren’t I?
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Jun 18, 2020 01:26
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Minto Took posted:86 Brakes: The Brembos that are in the 2020 WRX performance package can fit under 17" wheels. I have 17" steel wheels that I bought from TireRack with the car. They didn't have any fitment data because the brake package is a new option, but they said to get the 17" set and they have a fitment guarantee. The dealership put them on for me before I picked up the car, so I didn't get a good sense for how tight it was. Didn't really see when I took them off. E: From some other comments that I had seen online, along with people saying that they won't fit under 17" wheels, is that if they were balanced with the flat weights that go onto the inside of the wheel that you will have interference issues. If that's true, it must be very tight.
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Jun 18, 2020 03:22
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Yeah there are a number of kits that fit under 17" wheels. The PP brembos for example will. They are very similar to pre-2018 oem sti brembos, which i'm guessing are the same as the 2020 wrx brembos, but importantly you do not want to put those on a BRZ. They'll bolt on, but the piston sizes and orientations are wrong so you shouldn't do that. Stoptech's C43 kit will fit but requires a pretty wide, low offset wheel in general. The essex ap racing 299mm brakes work, there are some wilwoods, and stoptech has made an ST40 kit for subarus that goes under 17s but I'm not completely sure they have one listed for the brz.
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Jun 18, 2020 04:17
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Thanks. The reason I'm stressing is I still need to buy winter wheels/tires and I want to be fancy by running some Sparco Terras. Ideally, I'd only buy a set of winter wheels once since this is a forever car. Eventually, I want to supercharge and I haven't done a track day (bro) yet, so I'm probably ok with the stock brakes for now. Full Collapse fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Jun 18, 2020 |
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Jun 18, 2020 04:27
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What are the most common causes of an '04 Forester XT running "rough"? I haven't looked at it yet, it's a significant drive but one that I need to make at some point anyway for another errand. I'm thinking misfires, those little filters they had that could get clogged or fall into the head, engine mounts, but I assume it could also be a transmission about to fail (5mt), possibly something with the head gasket as well? I guess if oil or coolant was getting into the combustion chambers it could cause it to feel rough, but you'd probably also notice the plume of smoke coming out the back. Conversely, what are the most serious possibilities? The seller said that it's popping a code for a small emissions leak, but that sounds like the one where you didn't put your gas cap on right. An actual exhaust leak before the turbo seems like it could cause the car to run rough as the turbo is getting a fluctuating amount of exhaust, though? The seller is only asking $1600 for it, so even if it was something moderately severe and beyond my ability to fix (pretty much anything involving taking apart the trans or engine) I'd have money left over to pay a shop.
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Jun 19, 2020 07:38
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It's a 16 year old turbo Subaru
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Jun 19, 2020 07:46
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I'd give attention to the usual suspects. Spark plug wires, spark plugs, and injectors. Dont focus on more complicated things before you have to. Plus if you end up replacing the stuff I mentioned, you're only replacing stuff that needs to be replaced or cleaned eventually anyways.
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Jun 19, 2020 12:00
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Could be a fucky coil pack. An 04 XT is coil on plug. Start with fresh plugs and make sure nothing is leaking vacuum. Also the motor could be toast.
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Jun 19, 2020 12:16
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Ah nuts, I did a quick search for 04 Forester XT spark plug wires and got a ton of hits so I assumed. I guess that's what I get for being lazy.
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Jun 19, 2020 12:27
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Everyone always says subaru earths are poo poo too
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Jun 19, 2020 13:00
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simplefish posted:Everyone always says subaru earths are poo poo too Thats not really true tho. ------- At 16 years, I'd say coil packs are a likely suspect. um excuse me posted:I'd give attention to the usual suspects. Spark plug wires, spark plugs, and injectors. Dont focus on more complicated things before you have to. Plus if you end up replacing the stuff I mentioned, you're only replacing stuff that needs to be replaced or cleaned eventually anyways. This too
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Jun 19, 2020 14:13
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