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Lothire posted:Bit the bullet on the pinlock visor. $60 felt steep, but I just rode around for a while and it really, really works. My glasses were doing well on their own so long as I didn't breath too heavily. It was a little trouble - I sort of hold my breath when trying to turn the bike at low speeds, then let it all out in my own face. Trying to stop doing that. I have a pinlock visor as well and it DOES work, however my glasses still fog up if I don't control my breathing at low speeds. That being said, the pinlock's capability seems to degrade with age, nowadays it actually fogs up a bit on a hot day even at moderate speed. It never used to. They're disposable I guess.
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Dec 16, 2012 07:16
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 12:29 |
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How crap are shinkos? I just bought an sv650 with a shinko rear and a pirelli angel front. For reference, I'm coming off a hornet 919 with pirelli diablo strada's front and rear. Will I suddenly and without warning lowside into oncoming traffic?
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Dec 23, 2012 03:52
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Shinkos and Maxxis tires (which are I believe the same parent company) are great if you're not on something making a ton of power. I have ran the Maxxis Promaxx tires on all of my vintage street bikes and they never disappoint. I have a friend who had an RS250 with shinkos and he found them pretty deadly in the rain; my SV makes roughly the same power but with V-twin torque(tm) so I dunno. Has to be better than a mostly-bald, 3-year-old diablo strada I guess.
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Dec 23, 2012 20:14
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That seems to work on car batteries, if they're not too old, but I've never successfully revived a motorbike battery. In my experience, when they die they're dead for good. Maybe someone else knows more than me about this.
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Dec 23, 2012 21:55
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Does anyone know how to switch over the units used on the sv650 instruments? I know you can switch between miles and km on the odometer, mine for some reason has the odo in KM but the temp gauge in farenheit. How would I switch it to celsius?
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Dec 23, 2012 22:15
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Doesn't look like it's possible. Just have to learn to mentally convert farenheit I guess.
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Dec 28, 2012 21:22
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Not to mention, springs don't scale very well. A 250cc with valvesprings has no problem revving to 20k because the valves are relatively small and light; a literbike has larger springs and valves and avoiding float becomes a challenge of making the valvesprings as heavy as possible without shaving off the cam lobes. I'm pretty sure this is one of the reasons BMW use roller rocker arm style lifters like a car instead of bucket tappets on the s1000rr. It was a big deal when they first revealed it and the bike certainly has one of the most powerful production engines in it's class. My unscientific 2c.
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Dec 30, 2012 10:02
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nsaP posted:Ducati is awesome. There's that. I almost bought a 748 once but got a honda instead 
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Dec 30, 2012 10:50
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I dunno, my 2v is at 26k and when I was adjusting the valves I could feel quite a lot of play between the valve and the guide. I think it's going to need some real head work before too long. Italian character I assume. Fixed 
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Dec 30, 2012 21:13
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I've used a bike as daily transport for ages now, it works fine if you have something modern, injected and in a fairly lazy state of tune. I recently got an sv650 and it's pretty much perfect from that standpoint. Keep in mind that you'll need to regularly tension and clean/lube the chain and check the tyre pressures. Bikes need more attention than cars to get the most out of them, but you sound like you've got at least half a brain so this shouldn't be a problem for you. Like ponies says, a backpack is a must. I usually just have a simple medium sized one, but my SV does have a ventura rack in case I want to carry anything more substantial. None of that stuff is expensive or particularly hard to get. Modern bikes are very reliable, all the usual suspects (sv650, bandit, er-6 ninja) use proven, simple technology with relaxed engines and modern manufacturing techniques, and can stand up to some abuse. Maintenance as always is key.
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Dec 31, 2012 00:33
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You're all set then 
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Dec 31, 2012 01:04
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Isn't there also an issue with 2nd gear disappearing if they've been abused? I've seen a few for sale with no 2nd but an otherwise functioning gearbox, and heard of people claiming they pop out of 2nd if they're in poo poo shape. This is for the sort with the non-casette type box though, I don't know which one the 07 is.
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Dec 31, 2012 01:40
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Residency Evil posted:Any good places to find motorcycle gear online? edit: whoops, saw the gear thread. My opinion is an sv650 is an excellent second bike as, having taught a friend to ride on mine, the engine can be very choppy and over-responsive at crawling speeds compared to something smaller. Plus, chances are you'll drop it (don't go into it expecting this to happen, I'm just saying it's a reasonable possibility) and SV's don't accept falling over very gracefully vs something with fairings, like a ninja or what have you. For what it's worth, unfaired bikes can be harder to manage at highway speeds for a newbie.
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Jan 17, 2013 06:33
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Mr. Eric Praline posted:So the oil cooler on my Street Triple broke, and flooded the cooling system with oil. (Fortunately it didn't go the other way, so no coolant in the oil.) I've got the replacement part bolted on, and filled the system with distilled water. The plan is to run the bike to temp, drain the water, do it again if the water comes out all sludgy. I have dealt with this several times at work due to oil coolers failing on cars this way. Every time we've just mixed simple green or similar with water, repeatedly driven the vehicle and drained the system. Rinse and repeat. If manufacturer warranty finds this acceptable I'm certain your trip will take it in stride
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Jan 17, 2013 06:43
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I started on a two-stroke 250 with about 65hp, for what it's worth. But my first crash was on my second bike, a much tamer 400 four-stroke. Take that as you will. Also it's worth saying that most 250's and such have genuinely crap brakes; a single front brake to me seems terrible and weak and I think a newbie should have at least moderate stopping power, like a weak pair of discs like the sv has. Not enough to lock the wheel suddenly, but enough to stop in a hurry when you make a bad judgement call. MY FIANCEE started on an rg150 two stroke which had roughly 35hp, was light as a feather and had a terrible single disc on the front. When I rode it in the rain I found it more frightening than my 900 hornet.
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Jan 17, 2013 23:06
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nsaP posted:There's a good chance that with fresh gas and a charged/new battery it'll go. You can off it non-running for cheap but there are a few easy things you can do to try to get it running and it'll be worth way more. It's almost certainly just a buggered battery, things don't just randomly gently caress out by sitting around (unless they're french). Just shill out $80 or however much it costs in your area for a new battery, put a few liters of new gas in and it'll fire up.
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Jan 18, 2013 23:30
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With a totally dead battery, jumping doesn't work because the dead battery seems to suck away all the current from both the jumping vehicle and the bike's alternator. Seriously try a new battery, you'll make much more on it if it's running. Or give it to me for 20 bucks I guess.
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Jan 18, 2013 23:42
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epalm posted:Maybe this will peg me as a new rider (only a couple bikes and a couple years of experience), but, aside from high-performance situations (racing), what is the motivation for separating front and rear braking? Everyone says and everyone knows, the front has ~80% of your braking power, the rear has more like ~20%. Why not have one brake lever than distributes braking power to the wheels in that ratio? Simplicity, ease of production, 'it's always been that way', and people being accustomed to it are all pretty compelling reasons for sticking with something that's cheaper and simpler than the alternative.
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Jan 22, 2013 03:52
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Yeah it'll be the starter; the coils are getting hot, causing the impedance to shoot up and rape you. Also could be a bad ground; I've had cars with a poor engine ground which fired perfectly cold but seemed to have a dying starter hot. Unlikely with a bike as modern as yours though.
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Jan 24, 2013 06:45
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Fifty Three posted:Just ordered new tires for my Ninjette. Long overdue. Am I better off taking the bike to a shop to have the tires mounted and balanced, or removing the wheels myself and taking them somewhere to have the tires mounted? If the latter, what's the best way to get both wheels off of the ground? If it were my bike I'd have a go reviving the chain. Chain lube doesn't cost you much, may as well see how much life you can squeeze out of it. Provided it isn't stretched enough that it's impossible to adjust correctly. Also check for tight spots when you do the chain tension. As for the tyres, how much time and sweat are you willing and able to commit? VS how much it would cost you to take it to a shop.
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Jan 27, 2013 09:12
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Pham Nuwen posted:Thousands of RPM, to the point where the tach is useless once it starts. Unfortunately that's also the point where I want to know my RPMs. Wait, cable? Since when does a tacho operate by a cable? I've seen that effect before and the gauge itself was faulty, the little spring set inside was shot. The tacho should operate by a pulse from the coil, I've never seen one that operates by a cable. Is this really a thing??
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Jan 27, 2013 22:50
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I guess this proves I don't know poo poo about crusty old bikes. I've had several 80's bikes though and they all had a tacho driven off the ignition module thingy. That being said the oldest bike I've worked on was from 1985 
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Jan 27, 2013 23:17
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Mr. Eric Praline posted:So I'm bleeding my brakes, and the banjos keep leaking fluid when the brakes are under heavy pressure. These are galfer stainless lines with new crush washers. I've found in the past that bleeding at the banjo on the MC is helpful and does work. Can't imagine why you're getting poor sealing afterward though; are you sure it isn't just a case of you not tightening hard enough? Also are you certain it's actually leaking through and not just left-over brake fluid being squeezed outward when you tighten the bolt? Try bleeding like this instead: submerge your bleed tube in a transparent bottle of brake fluid, open the bleed screw and just keep slowly pumping the brake lever (while keeping the reservoir topped up obviously). Do this until bubbles stop coming out. You don't need to close the screw after every bleed because the bottle ensures only fluid is drawn back in, not air. This method works 99% of the time for me.
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Feb 7, 2013 23:25
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ReelBigLizard posted:You shouldn't need to bleed at the banjos. Copper crush washers are basically one-use, the copper work-hardens when you squash it. You do if you're replacing pipes or MC, it's otherwise very difficult to get the air out of the MC entirely. VTR1000's are notorious for this, amongst other bikes. I got the impression from his mention of SS lines that he's replacing the lines and not just bleeding for thrills. I've re-used copper washers a bunch of times without any real issue. edit: thought so. I'd try getting some new washers if it's cheap and easy, then bench-bleed the MC beforehand and try again without doing banjo bleeding. If you still get seepage despite everything, I'd start questioning the mating surfaces themselves or whether the correct washers are being used.
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Feb 8, 2013 00:07
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Pompous Rhombus posted:A really obvious question, but my first bike was a 2-stroke where you had to mix the oil in the with the has as you fueled: when I'm checking the oil on my XLR250 (4 stroke), it's normal for there to be a lot more oil on the bottom as it flows down the dipstick, and just a little that comes off on the rag near the top? Or am I reading a false positive and need to add more oil? It burns a fair amount of oil and the PO advised me to check it after every ride. Also remember to check the oil with the bike upright, not on the stand. That's how a hornet 900 swallows 4 liters of oil without being even half full...
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Feb 12, 2013 10:03
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Legerdemain posted:Here it is without the engine noise. I will say that the chain roller is a little worse for wear, with some deep grooves cut in it. But it's still rubber contacting the chain and it spins freely. I guess the chain slack could be taken in a bit. I'm going to give the entire final drive a good working over tomorrow and see if it helps. That sounds like a really loose chain. My VFR had a completely flogged chain that flapped around like mad even with the adjuster fully tightened.
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Feb 13, 2013 06:22
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Legerdemain posted:I thought it might be too, but it has 5 cm of play and spec says 40-50 mm. I'll tighten it up a little bit like I said. I think the thinning of the roller is letting it slap around a bit, as well, but I'm not sure it's causing the sound in question. 50mm seems pretty high, what sort of bike are we talking here?
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Feb 13, 2013 07:24
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Legerdemain posted:It's a '01 BMW F650 Dakar, a dual sport. It's quite tall and springy. 50mm probably isn't unreasonable then. It's odd that there's no noise when you spin the front wheel off the ground (I assume you've done that since you say the bearings are fine). So maybe something is rubbing only when there's weight on the bike? Also are you certain it isn't keys on your keyring bouncing around? Not much else to go wrong up front really.
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Feb 13, 2013 08:55
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Legerdemain posted:Ok, I replaced the roller and tightened up the chain and it fixed the dumb chattering squeakiness. The chain was rubbing on the plastic cover of the countershaft sprocket when the bike was under load. The label on the swingarm says to allow 40-50mm of chain deflection, which is what I was within. The manual, however, says 35-45mm, so I took it to 35 and that seems to be the difference. The swing-arm labels are often full of poo poo; frequently the tyre pressures they recommend are either slightly too low or hilariously high, too.
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Feb 14, 2013 09:49
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ThatCguy posted:
I'm moderately tall, I haven't measure it in forever. I'm pretty sure I'm just shy of 6 feet, I'm taller than most people around me. Anyway, I find I'm not able to fully tuck in on a small sportsbike because my elbows hit my legs and it's physically impossible for me to contort my helmet down onto the tank behind the screen. edit: also skinny, not fat.
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Feb 16, 2013 19:00
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epalm posted:Wait so that squealing is the vibration between the pistons and the back of the pads?? Neato burrito! Also vibration between the rail part of the pad carrier/caliper and the pad sides. Also potentially the rotor having enough of an unworn lip to wear a chamfer into the edge of the pad. That's why cars have shims both on the pad plate and the caliper sides.
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Feb 18, 2013 04:47
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What the christ was wrong with my speedo today? K3 sv650, digital speedo obviously. Leaving work, for the first few minutes the speedo would occasionally just cut out and display zero or 3-5km/h before abruptly shooting back up to the real speed. At one stage I went a full ten seconds with the speedo reading at or near zero, despite my travelling at normal speeds. After the first kilometer or so it went away and it worked perfectly the rest of the way home. Anyone experienced this before?
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Feb 27, 2013 11:08
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Safety Dance posted:I fill up every hundred miles. I've been doing that ever since I discovered that the reserve light on my Husky stopped illuminating. It's annoying. Oh christ I just realised now that with my busted speedo the odometer method for fuel consumption won't work for me anymore. I'll just have to fll up every time the light comes on.
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Mar 5, 2013 00:46
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:The vfr did, it was nothing special The 'vtec' in the VFR wasn't anything like car vtec, it was simply a system to shut off one in two intake valves for improved low-range pull IIRC. I'd say for a sportbike the improved torque curve doesn't justify the extra weight, complexity and engine size. I for one am surprised top-end supersports don't have GDI, it seems like an easy way to get a whole lot more power while staying within emissions regulations. Along with some sort of valvetronic throttle-less system. Again, most of this stuff doesn't scale down very well and would be pretty heavy by bike standards which is probably the main concern, along with cost.
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Mar 26, 2013 02:34
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Snowdens Secret posted:VTEC/VVTi etc are so you can keep low end torque and get more top end horsepower. In a bike you can build straight for horsepower and just slip the clutch more at the low end. The power/weight ratios are also much more forgiving, and you can futz with the gear ratios to get more than enough oomph at both ends. The systems add weight and complexity without really being necessary. Current cb600 hornet has carbs, astonishingly. Yamaha's first 4-stroke GP bike had carbs too.
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Mar 26, 2013 03:21
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Nerobro posted:There are some rpm limitations on that equipment. But really? Do you need MORE torque on a machine geared for 100mph in first gear? Aside from having a simpler feed system, what do they do better than efi...? Honestly curious because carbs seem to have no redeeming qualities as far as I'm aware, beyond the backyard mechanic supposed simplicity etc.
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Mar 26, 2013 03:31
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ThatCguy posted:They don't do anything better than EFI. They're fairly simply and rudimentary, and are good at flowing a lot of fuel at WOT, but in every measurable capacity, they're inferior to EFI. Adjusting your carb with a flathead screwdriver is more comfortable to some people than an ECU metering out fuel flow, but it's definitely not superior. I know, I wanted to see what he could come up with
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Mar 26, 2013 05:12
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Nerobro posted:Feedback doesn't matter. When you're in the "power" map of efi, it's ignoring it's narrow-band o2 sensor anyway. In some implementations it's even ignoring the startup MAP reading. My sv650 has a MAP and no 02 sensor. It is a 2003, and in 04 they got a cat and an o2 sensor. It's also worth noting that the 02 sensor is used to adjust fuel trim, which is a semi-permanent mixture adjustment which isn't updated in real time and can easily compensate for changes in altitude, engine wear and so on. ^^^^PGM-fi honda's have a MAP sensor, you can't really run a car on TPS/RPM alone unless it's something very exotic (BMW M3csl comes to mind) or a dyno-tuned car with the ecu tuned specifically for that engine alone (which the BMW is). There is so much variation between two 'identical' engines coming out of the factory, and so many different driving conditions, that it's basically impossible to mass-produce cars that don't have some sort of air metering system. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Mar 26, 2013 |
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Mar 26, 2013 22:59
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BlackMK4 posted:The E46 M3 CSL still runs a a MAP sensor Oh ok, shows what I know!
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Mar 27, 2013 05:15
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 12:29 |
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BlackMK4 posted:I only know because I had access to an M3 with the CSL intake for a while. I'm surprised that this is even possible. I know this is somewhat on a tangent here but is it really as simple as just throwing the intake on the regular S54 and it all works?
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Mar 27, 2013 05:33
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