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Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Slavvy posted:

Iirc Harley attempted to patent the noise a narrow angle v twin makes and all the other manufacturers teamed up in a class action to get them to gently caress off. In the end they walked away with a patent on 45° twins, so all the metric cruisers are like 50° or similar.

That's somehow even dumber than I remember.

FBS posted:

I haven't had time yet to do anything to the 919 except take a few slightly nicer photos and paw through the bin of spare parts the PO sent.





In the listing he said the tires were the original factory tires - turns out they're actually Metzeler Z8s from 2016. Instead of 18-year-old tires with 12,000 miles they're merely 6-year-old tires with 8,000 miles. :v: He got the bike from a dealer in 2016 and they must have replaced them when they took it as trade-in. (a fun bonus of buying a bike off a message board is you get to read through their post history from when they owned it)

919 is such a good bike.

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SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
The adjustment knob for my clutch lever is stuck, how do I turn the knurled finish without marring it up?

FBS
Apr 27, 2015

The real fun of living wisely is that you get to be smug about it.

Jazzzzz posted:

what's the exhaust, Delkevic?

Yep. It's fairly loud, I haven't decided yet if it's too loud.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

SEKCobra posted:

The adjustment knob for my clutch lever is stuck, how do I turn the knurled finish without marring it up?

if it were me I'd wrap it in something and then use pliers on the something. A rag, electrical tape and last try a few wraps of an old cut up bicycle inner tube are the order of things I would try depending on stuckness. Then again I had to do the same thing not two weeks ago and just used the pliers naked since I'm gangster like that the adjustment knob is hidden by a rubber boot and I barely had to touch it to get it loose is the real reason

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004



last week when i changed the oil in the drz400. i noticed a little bit of glitter in the oil. drain plug magnet had collected some stuff too.

motor has never been f’d with so im searching for common failure modes and going through them.
this is me locktite’ing the flywheel bolts and stator bolts. common mod on these bikes. mine did not have the lock tite from the factory.

next up im going to go through the clutch and clutch basket looking for trouble. then pull the valve cover and check that out.

the inside of the flywheel had scratches where the stator had made contact. i’m hoping that was the issue. nothing seemed loose though so im not sure how things got out of wack enough to touch.

will flush the oil three of four times in the next couple of miles to get as much of the grit out as possible

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Pull the frame oil tank screen, report back.
Cut your filter apart, lay out the pleats. Whatever the oil tank screen didn't catch, this filter did.

FBS
Apr 27, 2015

The real fun of living wisely is that you get to be smug about it.

Covered up some exposed insulation and rearranged the garage slightly so both bikes have their own parking spot and I can get them out without moving the car.



Next I need to put the anchors into the concrete so I can mount the tire changer, which is a little intimidating because 1) I've never done it before 2) it's a rented apartment so I want to keep the damage to a minimum and 3) the drill I'm borrowing from my dad is older than I am.

Jazzzzz
May 16, 2002

FBS posted:

Next I need to put the anchors into the concrete so I can mount the tire changer, which is a little intimidating because 1) I've never done it before 2) it's a rented apartment so I want to keep the damage to a minimum and 3) the drill I'm borrowing from my dad is older than I am.

Assuming you're borrowing a hammer drill from your dad, just get a carbide hammer drill bit in the right diameter and go to town. Not really harder than drilling any other hole, just takes a little longer.

edit: washed and waxed the 'wing because I got caught out in the rain the last time I was on it and it was filthy. Found out one of the seat supports under the pillion part of the seat has somehow sheared off, and that part was built into the grab handle that also has a helmet lock and some other fiddly poo poo built into it so it should be a total pain in the dick to replace

Jazzzzz fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Apr 25, 2022

Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe
After literal months of stalling and slacking and occasional, itinerant sanding and wire-wheeling, I took those two (formerly) rusting coolant tubes from underneath the Rex out to my backyard and hit them with primer.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



New tank, petcock, and chain on the TW. Starts without choke and runs like a scalded cat.

Anyone know where I can find a front brake cable for this goddamn thing? It’s totally seized and riding with just a rear is semi-sketch.

Will install better tires eventually…

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
What year model?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/324105265532

I just googled tw200 front brake cable.
Does not seem to be unobtainable.

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Supradog posted:

What year model?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/324105265532

I just googled tw200 front brake cable.
Does not seem to be unobtainable.

I’ve googled as well, that was my first stop.

It’s an 87, which does not have a cable shaped thusly. I looked on eBay and found nothing. I’m not sure if that angled one would work but mine is straight on both ends.

Partzilla also nothing.

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

continuing to wrench on the drz400.

changed the oil again. pulled all the drain plugs plus the metal screen one in the frame. nothing crazy stuck in it.


got inside the valve cover to check valve clearances. was thinking maybe the timing chain was making noise so i gave that a good inspection. also took out the automatic chain tensioner to make sure it wasn’t damaged or set too tight. seems like its in the middle of its rage still so we’re good there. reset that.







any plug gurus wanna peep my mixture. this bike has a FCR39 that look jetted for the bike ages ago. looks spot on to me.





minor annoyance. the spark plug boot has a little clip that grabs a hold of the the spark plug. the vibration from the engine is causing it to move up and down on the plug and damaging the plug and boot. got a new spark plug so i can try and correct it. would be annoying to get stranded over this minor thing but thats what regular maintenance catches i guess.




next up. thinking about pulling the clutch and and the clutch side engine case cover and going through it all looking for surprises.

drz400 engines are not easy to come by. i dont want this one to blow up. this engine is probably better maintained than most but it wants to kill itself

Imperador do Brasil
Nov 18, 2005
Rotor-rific



Well poo poo. I found a site through a friend that stocks that cable but it’s $34 in shipping…for a $45 cable. Ugh.

Edit: local Yamaha dealer had the front cable and brake shoes for $60 combined!!



Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Apr 30, 2022

Jazzzzz
May 16, 2002
Oil change for the 'wing. I have never had a bike where an oil change was such a mess, and that includes owning a KTM.

3 separate drain plugs, a filter that you can't get your hands or a strap wrench on (must own matching cap-style filter wrench, mine got stuck to the filter and took some convincing to get loose) plus another smaller cartridge filter for the DCT that's behind a cover that uses a spring to push up on the cartridge. As soon as that cover comes off the spring goes flying, but the cartridge stays in place and you have to pry it out with a screwdriver.

First time doing it, took me around an hour including cleanup. To be fair I was slowed down b/c the drain pan I usually use was too tall and made it difficult to get my hands/tools under the bike. That said, for comparison's sake it took me a whopping 10 minutes to change the oil on the GS the first time I did it. BMW less complicated than a Honda? Would never have thought.

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




I'm currently in the process of replacing the rubber seals on the rear brake of my fzr.

One piston was easy to remove with air pressure like the shop manual said, but the other is stuck in there really tight. Any advice? Tried a plumber's wrench covered in the core of a toilet roll to avoid marring the piston surface, but i can't put enough sideways force on it without it slipping off.

I haven't split the caliper yet.


Also this brake fluid stinks and my skin is cursing me for not getting some rubber gloves

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


LimaBiker posted:

I'm currently in the process of replacing the rubber seals on the rear brake of my fzr.

One piston was easy to remove with air pressure like the shop manual said, but the other is stuck in there really tight. Any advice? Tried a plumber's wrench covered in the core of a toilet roll to avoid marring the piston surface, but i can't put enough sideways force on it without it slipping off.

I haven't split the caliper yet.


Also this brake fluid stinks and my skin is cursing me for not getting some rubber gloves

Try putting a grease nipple in place of the bleeder and then pump the caliper full of grease. Contain the whole caliper in a bag or bucket so you don’t cover everything with grease when the caliper pops.

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




Does that still work when one piston is already out? I assume there is a fluid path between both cylinders, and it'll just find its way to the other (now open) cylinder.

I don't have a grease gun so i gotta know for sure before i go find one.

E: i'm gonna try one more time with a plumber's wrench, and if that doesn't work i guess i gotta split the caliper. And then i'll use a wedge to wedge two half circles of wood in there and then i think i can pull on the wood pretty hard.

E2: split the caliper. Managed to seal the fluid passage between the halves with a rubber glove, then used air pressure to get it out. It worked!

Am proud of myself for doing the kind of things i wouldn't have dreamt of 10 years ago :)

LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 15:31 on May 2, 2022

Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe
Got 3 of 4 rad hoses reinstalled last night, the fourth I thought I had until I realized I'd bungled the installation of the hardline and scraped the new paint up on a bracket and by then I'd run myself out of evening

Revvik
Jul 29, 2006
Fun Shoe


Last week, pulled it out of storage and fixed the no-start issue. Starter solenoid. Took it for about 20 miles, decided good enough, then yesterday rode it out to Toledo from Kalamazoo. Check engine light came on almost immediately (🇬🇧). Fuel gauge doesn’t work anymore either, it’s becoming more like the dual sport weirdos pretend it is every day. Two things to check out if I end up selling it on, I guess.

Stupid comfortable, at least.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

It sounds like you actually reached your destination, which means you bought a particularly good one!

Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe
Coolant lines back together, quick spraypaint over some of the bald spots on the frame, started the bike to get the thermostat bled and it sounds like it's running on all cylinders so that's good

Revvik
Jul 29, 2006
Fun Shoe

Slavvy posted:

It sounds like you actually reached your destination, which means you bought a particularly good one!

Hey now, I haven’t made the return trip yet.

Edit: maybe I have trust issues to work on, made it back no hiccups. My sister immediately commented that it reeks of gasoline, so maybe I should change those fuel couplers.

Revvik fucked around with this message at 18:47 on May 8, 2022

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

While you're scavenging the rover v8 for the fuel couplers, it's best to chop off some electrical connectors as well cause you'll inevitably need those.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
I started a refresh of my nx250, as it had developed a some rust spots after winter use, and engine got some valve noise.
Nice weather to work in and my brother also looked over his two.


I did a valve check 4 years ago, just after I bought it, all was within spec but that's 24k km ago. Interval is every 36k km.


Easy to check, all should be 0.23 mm +- 0.03. Turns out only one exhaust valve was near ok at 0.20, other exhaust was at .17ish, both intakes was at .18.

Popped it all off and measured, I could reuse 2 shims but my shim set had the 2 other thicknesses I needed.

I didn't take a picture of it but the alu rot has claimed the rear wheel, manged to puncture the wheel and it's flaking bad now.
As I faff about with getting it relaced I'll drop in one of the stock 16" rims we got. We run 17" rears from 82-84 honda xl250r/s, as they where drop in.
The oem rear size(120/90 -16) had zero good tires available, Bridgestone now has the AX 41 R for it, but I'll rather have more choice.

AnnoyBot
May 28, 2001

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Oh nice! Lemme know when you get around to them

I finally got to look around, and it looks like they went away with the last round of junk hauling. It's probably for the best, they were almost certainly cursed.

Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe
Still running on all cylinders, and no apparent leaks from the coolant lines!

Cut a new bracket for my relocated horn cause the old one busted, finally got a viton O-ring for my wack-rear end fuel quick disconnect (the one I spliced into the gas line cause I got bit once by the fuel line pulling out of the carb rail instead of the tank, and never again, stop-drilled the crack in my tail plastics and cemented it together, and put some new levers on. Hope to be riding it back to my place soon.

E:lmao it was snowing up by my place

Phy fucked around with this message at 07:11 on May 9, 2022

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




AnnoyBot posted:

I finally got to look around, and it looks like they went away with the last round of junk hauling. It's probably for the best, they were almost certainly cursed.

:rip:

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

I don't mind chain maintenance but shaft drive makes things so easy. I had some extra hypoid oil from doing the gearboxes on the Fourtrax so I changed out the rear oil on both Goldwings in 10 minutes:



Drain hole on the bottom, fill hole on the top, check hole on the left. Honda recommends this every 8k miles.

Deeters
Aug 21, 2007


I took care of some deferred maintenance on my XB9 this weekend. First, and most important: tires

Back onto the jack:


This somehow held together for a whole week while I was out of town

It's been a few years, just how old were these tires anyway?

:stare:

Second important thing was replacing the rear brake pressure switch. I couldn't find an official Buell one, so I chopped the connector off the old one, soldered it to the new one and went on my way.



While I'm in here, I ought to change the brake fluid. I threw some new pads in as well.

Gross!

I ended up with Angel GTIIs since they seemed well received around here. Back together and riding like a whole new bike.

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer


We're going in boys. It's only been eight years since they were last attached to the bike, what could go wrong?

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


Nothing will go wrong and everything will be fine.

But make sure Jets R Us has each part before you put a wrench or screwdriver on it.

Yerok
Jan 11, 2009
Pulled out my unregisterable XR650R, started up and ran ok on choke, did wheelies fine, but pilot was obviously clogged. It sat with gas in it for a long time because I put it away in a depression haze and I've been pretending it didn't exist. At least it was non ethanol.

Threw the carb in the ultrasonic and put it back on. It's been such a long time since I stripped an FCR-MX that I forgot how much I love them. Just need to get a replacement power harness for the Trail Tech gauge that's on it and then it's ready to go to its new home.

SV650 is on the battery charger, probably gonna end up with those carbs in the ultrasonic as well for the same reason.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




The FCR-MX is the single greatest fueling device ever. I’m prepared to fight people over this

yummycheese
Mar 28, 2004

Anyone ever re-spoke their wheels??

I was cleaning the chain and oiling the filter on the DRZ and realized the rear wheel is F'd. Every spoke is loose and the whole thing is a wobbly mess. I'm worried I wore out the hub or the rim with it having so much play. But I guess its time to pull the wheel off and un lace it and check it all out and try and re-lace it with new spokes.

Collateral Damage
Jun 13, 2009

Changed the battery because it died over winter.

This time I put a strap under the battery so it can be easily lifted out of the battery box next time and don't have to struggle for 15 minutes trying to get a grip on the exposed half inch top of it.

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

If you don't have a battery tender such as an Optimate, I suggest you get one so you can keep your battery at 100% when it's not being ridden.

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer
I have all three bikes on Cteks, with the quick connector thingies.

Yerok
Jan 11, 2009

yummycheese posted:

Anyone ever re-spoke their wheels??

I was cleaning the chain and oiling the filter on the DRZ and realized the rear wheel is F'd. Every spoke is loose and the whole thing is a wobbly mess. I'm worried I wore out the hub or the rim with it having so much play. But I guess its time to pull the wheel off and un lace it and check it all out and try and re-lace it with new spokes.

It's easy. Figure out what offset you need, if any, buy a couple tools and watch some youtubes.

Get all new nipples too and don't be surprised when you have to cut the spokes where the loose nipple/rim fit beat the poo poo out of the threads on the spoke.

e: idk if it's worth getting OEM excel stuff for a drz sm but I usually just get spokes and nipples from Buchanan's

Yerok fucked around with this message at 02:25 on May 13, 2022

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right arm
Oct 30, 2011

yummycheese posted:

Anyone ever re-spoke their wheels??

I was cleaning the chain and oiling the filter on the DRZ and realized the rear wheel is F'd. Every spoke is loose and the whole thing is a wobbly mess. I'm worried I wore out the hub or the rim with it having so much play. But I guess its time to pull the wheel off and un lace it and check it all out and try and re-lace it with new spokes.

yes. it's easy but it sucks lol especially if you're relacingstreet wheels which can be way more sensitive at 140mph vs a dirt wheel that sees 40mph offroad

my recommendation is to get the loose ones basically hand tight / snug and then spin it on a truing wheel / paddock stand w/o the chain / caliper and see if you really need to unlace and relace. could be there are just enough loose ones to make it hosed up and snugging them might get you closer than unlacing / relacing. worst comes to worst you can just pull them all and start from scratch

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