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GM used a plastic clutch pedal to depress the pushrod to the cluster master. On the Saturn Ion version, the rod eventually punches through. It's a lot more pressure than a brake light switch, and once it starts eating through the pedal, it'll destroy the ball end on the pushrod too (the rod is steel, but the ball end is.... plastic). GM did eventually release a piece that snaps into the clutch pedal if you catch it early enough, but if you don't you're dropping the steering column to R&R the clutch pedal (thankfully separate from the others).
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Aug 19, 2023 19:44
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opengl posted:Hitch install on the Vibe so I can drag my bike to the track without borrowing a truck. Still need to find a lightweight trailer but now I'll be ready to snatch one up since they sell quick. Now just wait for the rear heat shield to rust through and fall on the exhaust. Most annoying noise ever. Only rust we've had on the Matrix, the rest of the underside looks brand new. Might bug the SO to get a hitch though. At least that way I can hitch a ride with my bike to a trailhead easily; it's a solid 5 mile ride to the trail I want to ride most (what's left of it after a wildfire went through anyway... supposedly over half is still in good shape). I mean I guess I could continue to just chuck it in the back, but that's kind of a pain. cursedshitbox posted:six years in the making with version three i can see the light at the end of the tunnel and it's probably a loving high speed train. DONKEY IS BACK?!?  Should change the startup text to "Good luck".. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:07 on Sep 13, 2023 |
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Sep 13, 2023 12:02
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cursedshitbox posted:gently caress, so changing this to a random intro. Need to mod the 550's DIC to show "Don't forget a spare turbo" at startup instead of the Ford logo.
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Sep 15, 2023 11:26
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I'm sure you know it's not the brake booster - all it does is make it easier to push the single piston into the master. From looking at diagrams, I'm thinking it's a front/rear split instead of diagonal, and there's no proportioning valve/load adjusting valve when equipped with ABS. When ordered without ABS (which I think you could only do on the Tundra anyway), there's a load sensing proportioning valve and some junction blocks. It almost sounds like there might be air in the front brakes? The fronts are supposed to do most of the braking, and should be warm after a stop. And it's a bitch to get all the air out without the ABS pump working unless you have a pressure bleeder. If you threshold brake to the point that they start to lock up, what locks first? Front or rear? I'd be looking at the front brakes (air in them? bleeders oriented correctly?) or maaaaaaayyyybe master cylinder, but that's just me. I haven't seen a master fail in a way that would cause it to keep pressure in a line, I have seen flexible lines coming off a master fail that way though. But I'm fairly sure you have hard lines from the master to the soft lines at each wheel. Also it looks like Toyota's recommended bleeding sequence is RF, LF, RR, LR, which goes contrary to what I'm used to. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:42 on Sep 19, 2023 |
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Sep 19, 2023 14:34
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chrisgt posted:sweet, thanks for the suggestions!! I guess the unusual bleeding sequence sorta confirms the circuits are front/rear not diagonal. Doesn't traction control require the ABS pump to be working? Or was that before you disconnected the pump? It looks like the 1st gen could be had without ABS - I'm not sure how common it is, but I'm finding references to proportioning valves for 00-06. Here's a quick "how to adjust" for one, looks like it probably sat between the rear end and the bed. https://www.tundras.com/threads/the-brake-proportioning-valve.76916/. I would think the Sequoia doesn't have one since it's heavier in the rear, but you might see if there's one hiding on the rear axle. It looks like it just uses a lever to adjust it based on how much the rear is squatting; I would think the weight difference between an empty Tundra and a Sequoia would eliminate the need for it, but maybe not. Found a proper 1st gen Tundra FSM online, don't know if that'll help (it's for an 03, but an 02 should be pretty similar, and I think much of it will probably be useful on a Sequoia).
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Sep 19, 2023 15:58
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opengl posted:Replaced the door check in the Vibe for the....fourth? fifth? time. I've lost count. I've been meaning to replace a check on the Matrix for... uh... 5 1/2 years now. I have one from a similar year Corolla, just never got around to it. If it had power windows I would have done it ages ago, but it has crank windows and I don't really have anything to pull the retaining clip easily.. and of course everything is loving riveted, since the doors have never been apart for anything except an exterior door handle replacement. It didn't snap; instead it yanked out of the door holder. It was shoved back in, but if you even look at it funny, it pops back out. SO's out of town for a couple of weeks, I should probably take care of that. If I can find the replacement check  (I think I know what shelf it's on.. or maybe it's in the glove box)
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Nov 5, 2023 07:24
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Suburban Dad posted:That's...not really how it works. The sensor is probably dead and defaulting to "all knock all the time" and fully retarding timing. Premium is just going to cost more. Just replace it IMO and it'll feel much better. Or the same because it's a Camry. It really depends on the car. On N/A Nissans, when they detect a dead knock sensor, they run perfectly fine and just store a code (the CEL doesn't even turn on). Throw a $25 eBay sensor in and they wind up pulling timing so hard that you can't even hit 65 (on a car that can normally do 120), but the code goes away. Drop $500 on an OEM and it works fine. When I tried the cheap sensor, I wound up just unplugging the drat thing after a couple of miles. It didn't throw a CEL, just stored P1325, passed OBD2 smog fine, had plenty of power with it unplugged. The only reason I even knew the original knock sensor was bad is it spat out P1325 when I checked for codes. No light, ran fine otherwise. I would still replace it if OP can get an OEM sensor, but cars don't always pull all the timing once the knock sensor fails. Knock sensors are something you should always go full OEM on too.
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Nov 6, 2023 15:56
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Pretty!! I've taken every car I've owned into the desert at some point, no regerts (despite what Blackstone said...). One of the biggest joys in my life is hauling massive rear end down dirt roads.
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Nov 6, 2023 20:17
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Steve French posted:
Watt a pain. What vehicle is that? I know Ford does it on the Transit (makes for EXTRA fun when there's a cage behind the seat - which most cargo vans have).
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Nov 20, 2023 20:10
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Even on my rust free Outback, it was an absolute pain in the dick to get one of the front bearings+hub out. Wound up pulling the spindle, going to town with the torch, and sticking the whole thing in a press. The press deformed a bit before the drat thing finally popped free, and it sounded like a bomb went off when it did break free.
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Dec 4, 2023 01:31
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Replaced the radiator on a friend's  Apparently the fan rubs up against the radiator and this happens on every 1st gen Aveo (the fix is to get a dremel and grind down the edge of the housing). Also, her power locks would go apeshit constantly, to the point that she needed a jump every few days (battery was only a couple of months old). Traced that to the driver's door lock actuator - there's no power lock button inside the car, it locks/unlocks all the doors from you pushing/pulling on the lock itself from inside. Figured that part out when I barely nudged it and it sounded like 4 machine guns. She said it drives her crazy going down the road, and the alarm frequently went apeshit while parked. Wound up yanking the fuse for the power locks (bonus: killed the alarm), but of course there's no way to lock the driver's door once the fuse is out, unless you use the key. Tried the typical import tricks of holding the inside handle out while locking, holding the outside handle, etc. It won't lock without using the key with the door closed, but at least it's only that door. I figure the timing belt will let go before I have to touch this thing again. I don't wish that on her, but it's at 77k, and I won't do a timing belt for anyone except myself (like a lot of cars, it requires a few engine-specific tools; she would also want it done at her place, which is an apartment parking lot). Every Aveo I've seen in a junkyard that wasn't wrecked had "bad engine" written on it, and they're known for breaking the timing belt around 50-60k. Aside from the valve cover gasket pissing oil, and the power lock issue, it seemed like it was in decent shape, but it's still a 15 year old Daewoo. She asked if it was worth dropping the money on the timing belt, and I had to go "uhhhhm... well it runs and drives and has working AC, if you want to keep it then yes, but if you plan to get rid of it, TBH I wouldn't bother, it's not worth a whole lot, probably won't last more than a few more years". It was her mom's car, so it has a good bit of sentimental value. Was surprised to see PW/PL on it and keyless entry since it's a base model, doesn't even have a CD player. e: this is what I'm talking about with the fan. AC and non AC cars use different width radiators, but use the same fan. You can see the fan assembly has warped a bit over the years. I wasn't the first one in here either (definitely a lot of reused hose clamps and some finger tight bolts, and the wires were smashed a bit on the O2 sensor), this may be the car's 2nd replacement radiator. I didn't see any GM or Daewoo markings on the one that came out; it got the cheapest known brand I could find (TYC, $75 shipped). I see why you never see these, or Daewoos, on the road anymore too - they're slapped together even worse than a Cavalier, maybe worse than an early Hyundai Excel, with a poo poo engine, poo poo transmission (though shockingly, not a CVT?), and parts are already getting kinda hard to find.  Next time I see her, I'll bring my dremel and shave off the edge of the fan assembly. Radiators on these are apparently a 30-40k mile part until you do that. There's also next to no info online about doing a radiator replacement. I was specifically looking for info on what size sockets/wrenches to bring. Youtube said 8 and 10mm. Nothing was 8mm, it was almost all 10mm except for the transmission cooler lines (banjo bolt on one, hose clamp on the other). Thankfully she had vice grips that worked well enough to break the banjo bolt free, but there was a crush washer under it, so I'm gonna inspect for leaks in a few days. I have some crush washers here that are roughly the same size, but that was probably a 17mm (if not larger) bolt I didn't expect to run into. The lower ATF connection was a screw-in adapter to connect via hose clamp, different size of course. Thankfully the new radiator came with one (I did break the old one free, but the new one had threadlocker on it already). tl;dr I make radiator replacement overly complicated on a car that you never really see on the roads anymore (for good reason) randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Dec 19, 2023 |
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Dec 19, 2023 05:10
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Oh I agree, and I'm used to that to a degree from owning 80s and 90s Hondas. But on those, you could get around it by pulling the inside door handle and hitting the power lock button (or if you didn't have power locks, just locking the door from the inside), but the number of people I see with older Hondas still locking with the key... FFS, it's printed in the owner's manual. I see the same thing with people driving classic Japanese vehicles too (particularly older Toyota pickups). Their mind is blown when I tell them "hey, if you just hold the outside door handle while locking it, it'll lock". Something is broken in that locking mechanism though - it won't let you lock it even with the door closed. I think that's what hosed it up to begin with - just about every car with power locks will lock the car when you put it in gear (or on a 3 pedal car, when you start moving). I moved it into a different parking space once I was done with it, and tried locking the door from the inside once it was in gear (with the PL fuse out), and... nope. Wouldn't lock, there was something in the door preventing it. I suspect that with the fuse in, it kept trying to lock itself until the contacts wore to the point that it constantly thought you were trying to lock it. Kinda impressed the solenoids have held up that long. Seriously sounds like BRRRRRRT going down the road with the fuse in. My first Honda (1988 Accord LXi) had the same issue, just not bad enough to kill the battery (it would only do it when the driver's door was unlocked; once locked, it was fine). It was always fun when I took it to a drive thru car wash where they didn't let me sit in in the car, and I told them up front "dude, it's gonna lock you out, DON'T LEAVE THE KEY IN IT". 3 times, the car wash had to call a locksmith after the car rolled out... twice shutting the line down, the 3rd time it rolled out into the street and stopped when it hit the curb (in front of the police station across the street  )EDIT: the keyless entry remote is part of the key anyway, you're not locking the keys in it easily if you're used to using the remote. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Dec 20, 2023 |
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Dec 19, 2023 14:40
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Those cleaned up really well. Still really weird seeing a 2nd gen Outback with the tow hook cover and fog light grills intact - my bumper was too deformed to get a cover on (the fogs were aimed about 2' in front of the car thanks to the bumper sag). Still have the grills I bought somewhere, the tabs wound up being broken off of the fog housings. The headlights on my Outback went from "are these drat things even on?" to "who the gently caress turned on the daystar?!" after a good polish + aim (the saggy butt on mine wasn't helping things either). Even the JDM HID factory lights I had didn't do as good, though I suspect that was partly because the lenses were pitted/cracking on the inside (I guess the HIDs threw a lot more UV than the covers were designed for? still have them in the garage wired up to a PC PSU, I'll fire them up when I need a lot of diffused light). Those taillights will always be an issue, they flat out don't age well - every time I went to the junkyard, I tried to find a set that wasn't full of water/moisture. I found one outer that was in somewhat better shape, but still not fantastic. Did find a center section that didn't completely fill up every time it rained. Yours look like they're in a lot better shape than mine were, but it probably wouldn't help to add a drain hole anyway. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Jan 3, 2024 |
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Jan 3, 2024 01:13
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Check the bushings in the rear - there's one in the middle that rots out and drops the rear a bit, which also results in it whacking the bumpstops. Usually causes a bit of odd camber too though. Mine definitely had saggy butt as a result of that. Bushing had completely left the chat, yet somehow didn't cause any rattling or clunking.
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Jan 4, 2024 01:23
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NitroSpazzz posted:Truck hasn't been running right for a couple weeks now but it's only used for trash runs and taking the dog to the park so didn't worry about it too much. Have this week off so I pulled it into the garage to let it warm up before diving in. It took a half hour to pull it ahead ~10ft, do a 5 point turn and pull into the garage. Was thinking maybe it was the duraspark unit or something on the carb but decided to check the plugs after I saw checking for a stuck float wasn't going to be a quick/easy job. Plugs were a little crusty. Bah, you can just climb into the engine bay and sit on the fender - that's what I did at 5'7 when I had my 80.  And the DuraSpark II system either works or doesn't in my experience - it goes from running fine to "why did the engine die?". Mine would crap when it got hot, but opening the hood and letting it cool off for half an hour was usually enough to get it to restart and run for a little longer. It was an OEM module, though likely not original. Mine had spots to bolt down two modules, so I left that one there and mounted an aftermarket one next to it (think it was a Borg Warner unit from Checker, now known as O'Reillys). At least that way worst case, I could switch to the other if one took a poo poo and limp it home.Those plugs were disgusting - looks like it's running pig rich, so you probably do have something going on with the carb, or it's not getting warmed up enough for the choke to pull off. Checking for a stuck float is easy on the 2 barrel Autolite - it turns into a little gasoline fountain. Dunno about the 4 though.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:30 on Jan 4, 2024 |
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Jan 4, 2024 12:26
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Clearly, GM Optispark was better than HEI, especially on higher mile vehicles, or stuff that didn't get driven regularly. ............... I can't keep a straight face after saying that.
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Jan 4, 2024 14:44
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Darchangel posted:Already replaced the upper control arm bushings. They were toast. It helped a little, but not a lot. It looks like the springs are sill available from Subaru for roughly $75/ea (MSRP, you can find them lower once you have the part number, may be a little higher at some dealers). But I just checked, you're correct - wagon and sedan get different rear springs from the factory. You'd think the wagon weighs a lot more, but it looks like on the highest optioned models, there's just under a 100 pound difference.  Still enough of a difference that Subaru has different springs for the wagon.Oddly, there's 3 different part numbers listed, all shown as fitting 01-04 LL Bean wagons in the rear - 20380AE21A, 20380AE23A, 20380AE39A. The last is also listed as fitting the base model, the other 2 are only listed for the higher trims (one is specified as also fitting "cold weather" models, I'm gonna guess they're the same springs with some kind of coating? every 03-04 Outback had heated seats/windshield/mirrors, even the base model, so "cold weather" didn't really add anything except a block heater AFAIK). You can probably narrow it down by using the VIN on parts.subaru.com. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:26 on Jan 5, 2024 |
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Jan 5, 2024 12:30
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Full Collapse posted:It's always funny when people try to race me. I giggle as they zoom off, cut their clapped out turd through traffic and I say to myself, "children." The best is when you're in your own not-fast ricer (with requisite body crap, exhaust, etc of a late 90s/early 00s rice bucket, but it's really just a stock Civic EX with shitloads of blowby on a very tired D16Y8), and someone else pulls up next to you at a light, then bangs the rev limiter a bit. You look in your mirror and there's a cop directly behind them, so you rev back, slip the clutch a little to jerk forward, etc. Then when the light turns green, you slowwwwwwwly ease the clutch out at idle while 2F2F bro does a mad 1 wheel peel with crazy wheel hop and barely beats a Geo Metro through the intersection. ACAB etc, but if you're going to line up for a street race in your clapped out Celica, CHECK YOUR loving MIRRORS FOR COPS, ESPECIALLY DIRECTLY BEHIND YOU! Cop was laughing his rear end off when I took off slow, gave me a thumbs up when he went by. Been 25 years, I still wonder how many tickets that dude got. Or if the cop could keep a straight face when dealing with him. It was in no way an unmarked car either - 9C1 Caprice with full BRIGHT logos, light bars, spots, etc. You only miss that by being a loving idiot. Motronic posted:Is J.C. Whitney still as thing? They used to have the most epic sized section of their catalog dedicated to stick on chrome for every generation of vette. Sir, not only are they still a thing, they still do printed stuff. It's now a "magazine" instead of a catalog, with the real meat being online, but seeing as most print stuff has gone the way of the dodo bird... (they're now part of carparts.com though) Looks like the bulk is Jeep stuff now though. Reminds me. I got a PHONE BOOK dropped off at my door today. I didn't know those still existed. Only 1.5" thick instead of a baby forearm tho. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Jan 11, 2024 |
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Jan 11, 2024 22:31
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