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Reikland seems really good on yellow.
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Mar 16, 2014 01:20
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Do any of you have experience of using citadel washes over a gloss varnish? I'm thinking of trying to do an oil wash but with the acrylic wash.
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Mar 16, 2014 09:06
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That's what I was hoping to hear. Being able to apply Yriel through an airbrush and then shade with Reikland afterward would be a huge time saver. I've got three coats of Yriel over Averland now and It is still horrifically blotchy close up.
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Mar 16, 2014 10:05
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We're going to need a bigger Micro Sol.
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Mar 17, 2014 00:19
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Work in progress in my five year long (on and off) quest to find a way of painting Imperial Fists that I like and is practical. Colours look a bit off because of autocorrection. If it weren't for the shockingly uneven nature of the Yrial, after three coats, I think I would go straight into an army like this. As it is I need to find a way of cracking a smooth coat first.
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Mar 17, 2014 01:18
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You want what is called a 'pin vice'. And the attendant drill bits in a diameter that matches or is slightly narrower than your paper-clip. For corks you want to look at bungs sold to the wine-making hobby. I like these. Cheap as chips and provide a stable platform for a normal 28mm model (models mounted on wine corks are way too top-heavy to stand on their own). Added benefit is that if you put a paper-clip into the arms and head you can mount them on the same cork as the body. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 01:08 on Mar 19, 2014 |
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Mar 19, 2014 01:02
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Cyclomatic posted:Does anyone have any experience with using an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner for cleaning airbrush parts, and possibly stripping paint on models when it is hard to get out recesses? The ultrasonic cleaner is very good but it can damage some of the internal seals, so you might want to look into whether or not you need to remove them before cleaning.
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Mar 23, 2014 04:51
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Different roles. Oils are for when you want to shade something without colouring the surrounding area. You can clean them of with spirits where acrylic will stain.
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Apr 8, 2014 11:15
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serious gaylord posted:
You can do it with something like space marine power armour, but yeah, you should also know when and where to use the acrylic wash as well. For instance, I'm (again) thinking about painting some Mentor Legion marines, and with white legs/arms there would be huge benefit to pin shading those parts using an appropriate blue-grey oil. And if I'm doing that I might as well shade the dark green and steel with black at the same time. But I'll still use acrylic for some areas beforehand.
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Apr 8, 2014 12:42
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VolatileSky posted:First attempt at airbrushing! You will be amazed how quickly aiming the spray becomes second nature. It's like using a mouse or aiming a gun, the coordination will click and you will just know without paying any conscious attention to it.
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Apr 9, 2014 01:16
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How do you guys go about putting your Infinity models onto custom bases? I'm looking at using a Basius pad to make textured greenstuff to go on my bases, but I can't really see how I could realistically pin those spindly legs to the bases.
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Apr 15, 2014 21:43
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Thanks for the advice. And yeah, PVA glue is the best sealer.
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Apr 16, 2014 20:37
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Except for how they separate in the bottle and are all but impossible to mix again without a motorised mixing rig.
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Apr 17, 2014 00:00
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Make sure it's rated for both gasses and particulates.
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Apr 17, 2014 20:57
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ijyt posted:Citadel Mouldline Remover? I thought that's what the knife was for. That is actually an incredibly good tool. You still need a knife in tight detail, but it works a charm on larger sections without the risk of cutting yourself or slicing a chunk out of the model. Broken clocks and all that.
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Apr 18, 2014 23:46
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ijyt posted:I've actually never heard of one. Do you just use the edge of a piece of shaped metal or what? Yeah, works exactly like removing mould lines with a knife but without blunting or risking a cut. Like I say, very very handy.
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Apr 19, 2014 03:08
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That's a gorgeous paint job. How did you do the stone? It looks amazing.
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Apr 19, 2014 17:29
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The Knight codex has a short story where a pilot basically just sits in his command chair in a medieval style meeting room, has a plug connect to his brain, and then does an anime style chair-drop through the depths of the building straight into the cockpit of his suit. It didn't come across to me as being anywhere near as complex as the method of synching with a true titan.
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Apr 20, 2014 08:11
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Tadhg posted:Does anybody have recommendations on forest themed resin bases? I make a lot of my own bases, but for my Wood Elf characters I'm looking for something a little more scenic than I usually do. Most of the forest bases that I've seen are little more than a sand texture with a few roots showing through; I'd like something flashier. Have a look at the Basius basing pads. They have two, Kingswood Forest and Forest of Deep Shadow. http://www.wargamesbakery.co.uk/Basius%20Basing.html
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Apr 22, 2014 00:09
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I was really impressed with the testers we did with some of the other bases. I haven't tried the forest ones yet.
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Apr 22, 2014 05:07
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The Basius pads are also pretty drat helpful if you want to texture the floor of a scenery piece.
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Apr 22, 2014 07:23
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The Heckler posted:Does anyone have any experience using Filters on their models? I think it was ThePaintingClinic youtube channel where he painted a Knight Titan using that stuff through an airbrush. It gave a very nice finish.
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Apr 22, 2014 22:08
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enri posted:There is something appealing about the crisp blue armour, gotta be said There really is. I've got a half finished UM on my desk right now... next to Imperial Fist, Mentor Legion, White Scar, and Minotaur test models. I might try and finish him tonight.
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Apr 23, 2014 21:52
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Lungboy posted:Thanks, but I'm in the UK I'd go with transparent personally. White will mean needing much closer cropping when you cut the decal off of the sheet. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Apr 26, 2014 |
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Apr 26, 2014 08:38
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I'm sure I'll find some. Printing at work is a good idea though, I could use their fancy laserjet. Now, would I be better off with white or clear paper for that green Marine I posted?
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Yeah, I used graphite on my ill-fated Great Unclean One a few years back to give a metallic tinge to his rusted cleaver. It is a wonderful technique.
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Apr 28, 2014 13:20
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The GW paint tray is actually pretty good. The pots are stupidly designed though, you have to put the lids on without pushing them all the way down, otherwise your brushes bend their tips against the bottom.
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Apr 30, 2014 20:18
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How would you guys go about highlighting Citadel Flash Gitz yellow? I was thinking maybe 1:1 with bone then straight bone? I'm a hobby idiot and wont stop trying to nail down Imperial Fists. Edit: That kitbash Librarian looks very cool.
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May 26, 2014 16:38
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Okay cheers, I'll give that a go.
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May 26, 2014 17:26
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I agree with that. Either a pistol, or taking off the scope would slim it down and create a cleaner through line for the pose. And a drum mag is always cooler.
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May 26, 2014 18:10
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Crossposting from the 40k thread because I'm an angry babby.quote:I've just decanted a brand new pot of Ulthuan Grey (mixing it with white for an army) and it was so dried out it blocked the 10mm aperture of the funnel I was using, even with the full content of the pot sitting in the top of the funnel. The pot had never been opened before, the tamper seal was still in place and the lid looked to be properly attached.
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Jul 22, 2014 21:23
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Excuse the shittiness of the picture. I'm trying to decide if I should stick with the cream interior, which I'm worried is a bit too eye-catching, or switch to something darker and a bit more neutral, like washed boltgun. What do you think?
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Jan 2, 2015 13:26
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Thanks for the feedback on the cockpit guys. I think I'll stick with the cream and just change how I paint it to get a cleaner look.Post 9-11 User posted:
That was my main consideration in leaving him mostly blue. But visuals aside, it also triggers my sperge reflex to have every pilot be a Techmarine, because it would be silly. I used the alt-Techmarine scheme of head and right shoulder to indicate secondment to the armoury. I am a huge nerd. Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Jan 2, 2015 |
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Jan 2, 2015 18:05
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Where's the OSL from the shenis?
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Jan 2, 2015 19:18
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SRM posted:I think they might not even have done a drybrush, it might just be Leadbelcher then Nuln Oil. Don't listen to this, SRM is just telling you lies so you will buy paints that don't work.
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Jan 8, 2015 22:36
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serious gaylord posted:RIP Fairy Power Spray. They changed the key ingredient and now you don't work like you used to. Biostrip 20. Works better, faster, and isn't noxious.
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Jan 20, 2015 19:47
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serious gaylord posted:As easily available in the UK? Yeah, made by a UK company as far as I know. You can get it from Amazon in 500ml pots for around £8 as I recall. Brush it on generously then let it sit for an hour. Non-toxic, non-irritant. Water soluble. In my experience it's basically a miracle stripper. Just remember to properly rinse the models afterwards to make sure any residue is off. It's specifically designed for stripping paints as an answer to the EU saying "That incredibly hazardous toxic poo poo? That's dumb." Lovely Joe Stalin fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Jan 21, 2015 |
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Jan 21, 2015 00:25
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Biostrip has almost no smell. Can't remember if I mentioned that.
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Jan 22, 2015 01:07
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El Estrago Bonito posted:That one huge mustache guy is so common in historical Brit ranges for the time period that I'm 99% sure he has to be in an Osprey uniform book somewhere since that's usually the source of one random guy showing up in multiple ranges and scales. Far as I know it's actually a traditional British Army NCO's style.
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Jan 30, 2015 20:00
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 10:11 |
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You want a spray booth. Portable or permanent, but you need one.
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Feb 9, 2015 18:04
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