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serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
You can also load the front up with powder and then blast thinner through an airbrush front the front to give you movement effects on planes/skimmers too.

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serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
Also gently caress. Yes. This kit is amazing.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
I think he might be the smallest primarch yet. He doesnt seem any bigger than Lorgar.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
Forge World guard and more more 'true to scale' compared to their marines. This means they're a lot smaller than regular guard.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

ineptmule posted:

I think the Elysians go even further though - I have some of the Hazardous Environment Cadian bits which are smaller than regular Chadians but still look pretty huge on the Elysian legs.

Thats because the Cadian bits are designed to go on GW plastics. Elysians are Forgeworld through and through. The Death Korps are the same, much smaller.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
gently caress putting Curzes wrist blades on the model. poo poo needs needle tweezers and years of success at Operation.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

The Sisko posted:

Speaking of Primarchs doesn't Lorgar have the same thing going on with some little spikes on his mace?

Not really, they're in semi circles so its fairly easy to get them situated.

Nothing however comes close to the ballache of the Pteruges on Fulgrims tabard. Having to not only trim these 3mm pieces of resin out from a flat sheet and then stick them on individually was a nightmare. They give you extra, which is good because I fired a few across the room.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

big_g posted:

I just finished the F-22 Raptor I posted a few pages back. Pretty happy with it, now just thinking about what to get next.









I like this. Mind if I ask what scale and who made it? I always like to have a look at good model ranges.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Z the IVth posted:

I'm painting up my latest Battlesuit and I've run into a bit of a rut. So here is it's current state:


(Pardon the lovely lighting, the highlights are washed out)

I keep looking at it and it's just not "popping out" enough for me. The highlighting isn't quite done yet, and the guns have yet to go on, but the base colour scheme is just looking really bland. I was deliberately avoiding the schemes used in the more popular Infinity battlesuits, but now I'm having a hard time figuring out how to make it stand out a bit more.

My to-do list is:
1. The visor of the helmet (now in black) - Should I do it in white, orange or green?
2. There are various little greeblies scattered over the armour (see the ankle pads and the forearms) - I am thinking of doing these in 'jewel' green to complement the red.
3. Stripes on the red parts - Still undecided on orange or white.
4. Freehand insignia - I am thinking of doing something on the chest, but I wonder if it's going to make it look too OTT 40k if I do a giant skull or wolf head on the chest plate.
5. Weathering - Any good ideas on painting on paint chips? I've already done the airbrush work, so I've missed the boat on using salt. I plan to wash the mini more to bring out the highlights, and will do a pin wash into the crevices.
6. Weapons - These will be simple black/grey affairs with small amounts of colour only.

Thoughts from the more colour-oriented crowd?

P.S I am very hesitant to fiddle with the red areas in any way. It's not obvious due to the poor lighting, but the red has been zenithal highlighted. If I ruin it, I can't repair it.

All of your colours are complimentary. Use a contrasting colour in spots of the model. A bright green will work very, very well.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
I don't even think I could paint that freehand on a Knights shoulder pad. And if I could, it certainly wouldn't be quick.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

LumberingTroll posted:

People just dont understand how long it takes to paint things, and if you want "top" quality it takes even longer. A top quality Knight would take what, 15 hours of work Id say. at $300 thats $15/hr good luck finding a good artist in any field that will work for that little. This is why I wont ever paint for anyone else, that and im not that good :D

A top quality knight would be a weeks work since you could do some ludicrous things on those flat panels. I put 20+ into most of my Primarchs and if I was to paint a knight, even with liberal airbrush work to do the boring bits I'd be looking at 25 to 30 for my best. Most people that paint commission work do it so close to minimum wage its not feasible.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

JoshTheStampede posted:

I don't think he meant a Knight Titan. I think he meant a warmahordes model.

Arent they tiny? That would make it take even longer.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

JoshTheStampede posted:

Haha holy poo poo that's even worse. He wanted 3 Knights cleaned and assembled with custom freehand work and custom-sculpted gigantic resin bases and thinks he can get that anywhere for under what you quoted him. Ok buddy.

He'd be looking at at least £200 per Knight, even from the airbrush jockeys.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
Those own. Nice palette choice.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
Model air paints are the business with brushwork too.

Caution when mixing them with other lines or paint brands though. They don't tend to mix that well with things aside from other VMA paints.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
Doesnt look weird to me.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
Nearly there. Base, mutilated corpses and all the gore to go plus adjusting anything that doesnt look quite right when its all together.

lovely mobile cam wip incoming.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
Finished Curze. I had a lot of fun with this one. Very happy with the blue on the armour.

Click for big

















serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Skarsnik posted:

This looks rad, how did you do the blue?

VMA Signal Blue, Blue and then Sea Blue in various percentages of mixes.

TheChirurgeon posted:

Very cool. What's your method for painting the stone on the ruined archway?

Steel legion drab, heavy drybrush Baneblade brown, stipple/drybrush rakarth flesh. Drybrush palid wych flesh.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

krushgroove posted:

Z the IVth - didn't you also sculpt it? either way it looks great, it's a very nice subdued yet striking color scheme I think.


Hey color scheme experts, I need some help deciding how to add some detail to my Dark Eldar forces. I did a quick and simple airbrush basecoat but want some of the deeper detail in these models to pop out to add a bit more color:



I want to put some detail to these bits but not sure what colors to go for:
weapons (right now I'm thinking gold, bronze or another non-silver metallic?)
sail stands and supports - the 'V'-shaped bits on the outer parts of the sails (light blue?)
engine exhausts (gold or bronze? whichever one of these isn't used on the weapons I think)

The weapon glow for the engines is a magenta/pink, it's hard to see in the picture I think

Gold will work very well as an accent.

Or if you're very brave, bright green.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
Any capes on characters should be in green. Will really draw the eye to them without making them super stand out.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

SRM posted:

You know that old Ultramarines display in the old Space Marines codex? The one with the entire chapter? That was me. Took like a weekend.

I painted a squad for the new version of that. I can always pick out my Rhino.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

SRM posted:

If you're looking for better models, don't look to Mantic. I get all my GW stuff for 20% off from Warstore or whatever, but the ease of assembly and quality of sculpting is really, really good. I feel like I'm getting what I pay for, even if I do wish it was cheaper.

That rules! Which one's yours? Is it in any other product pictures on GW's site?



Front right squad with the Rhino with the tac squad arrow on the right. Did it for my local shop in a few hours as they were buried.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Boon posted:

Uh.... how does one come across that many sections to make a wall like that. It's awesome and also stupidly expensive it seems...

When you have access to the machine that pumps them out it doesnt exactly cost a lot. That was for Gamesday 2012 when they had an updated Ultramarines Chapter on display.

AndyElusive posted:

:captainpop:

That gore.

Why aren't you working for Forge World? They need to hire you and pay you the big bucks because this is better than the show model on their site.

I'd never work for GW, I wouldnt get on with the management.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Takkaryx posted:

I'm painting up some minis for my group's DnD characters. The party recently killed a giant crab, and of course our druid promptly made giant crab armor. I've decided that it was a purple dungeness ( :v: ) crab, and I'm wondering how in the world I'm going to paint that. Here are the pictures I'm going from;



My initial thoughts are to start with a really warm beige, do a couple washes of purple, speckle some more beige on top, then a red wash and then another purple wash. Any ideas?

White undercoat, then a heavy wash of a sepia tone. Then you can start bringing in the other colours in washes and then stipple on some of the more striking colours to give it a random, mottled look building up the colour closer to the center of the carapace.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

ijyt posted:

Dude I know your pain. I could totally slap on a basecoat, wash, not even bother with mould lines to have a painted army. But I don't want that, I'd know it be low effort, and it'd bug me. I'd rather do it to a standard that I'm happy with than regret it later.

Hi I've been painting for 20 years now and I have 1 painted army (2000 points!)

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
It's actually a Grey Knight army that I finished, played about 3 games with and is now completely illegal unless I play unbound!

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Post 9-11 User posted:

Sorry, Paladin player! :shrek:

Draigo AND Crowe. So Paladins AND purifiers. 27 model 2k army!

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

It was a post in agreement with you because i'm exactly the same. I don't know why you're being such a dick about it :confused:

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Frobbe posted:

a modelling question.

i found these http://www.anvilindustry.co.uk/Latest-Releases?product_id=328



and i kind of want to run three of those as a vulture gunship standin in 40K. anyone see any particular modeling issues with that? and does it fit rule of cool?

Vultures are the same size as Valkyries. I cant really tell the scale of that, but it looks a lot smaller.

Aside from that, I really like the look of it.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
Fyi for anyone that wants to build Vulkan/Mortarion/Curze, you have to leave the shoulder pads off if you want to paint the cloaks seperately or you'll have to tear them off to get it to fit. You can just about fit Lorgars cape on afterwards but its bullshit nightmare 1000.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

berzerkmonkey posted:

Haha, not any more - those dipsticks at GW decided it would be a good idea for the bottom line to ship all their stuff to China and pay someone pennies to cast resin models. Unfortunately for GW, those same companies just use the molds to cast stuff they sell on the side.

They havent had anything bar books made in china for about 5 years now just FYI.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

berzerkmonkey posted:

GW certainly produces their plastics in China. Are you sure about the FW resin?

They brought everything back after the chinese factories were churning out legit stuff in the day and fakes at night using the same machines. Nothing is made in china bar the books now.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

The Sisko posted:

Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm working on those highlights on the face as we speak and now that you mention it I could push the highlights on the armor some more ( I was afraid it look too busy). Also I can confirm Gaylord is right ; that cape was a colossal loving nightmare to put on with the shoulderpads.

I gave up trying to take Curzes shoulder pads off as they're so delicate and just cut the cape to fit.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
You can line the goriest parts of the Wolfen zombie with a purple ink and really make it look wet and horrid. Tiny amount goes a long way.

I like what you've done with those models.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

JoshTheStampede posted:

Some Wip pics of my dorf bust! Mainly of interest because the face is all oil paints over a flat acrylic base.

Man, working with oils is super intuitive and easy, and there's zero stress about blending like there is with acrylics. Why worry? This poo poo aint drying till tomorrow at least, just lightly whack it with a brush and it magically blends! I loved it, I will seek out new places to use it because 32mm minis isn't really the best venue for it, probably.




Thats a phenomenal eye.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

dr_ether posted:

Finished working on S'erum. Was a lot of fun to paint. Got a couple of minis to finish (nothing really new) before moving on to paint some more character models for the Dirz.



Thats some wonderful work and brilliant colour choices.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

ineptmule posted:

A couple of Winsor & Newton S7 brushed just arrived and one of them already has some splayed hairs, and a couple which have been caught and bent back by the tip protector.

Is this fixable, or should I complain and send it back to the vendor?

The bristles that have been bent back are easily fixed by wetting the brush and dragging it back with a twirl on some kitchen towel.

The one thats already splayed i would send back.

serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.
RIP Fairy Power Spray. They changed the key ingredient and now you don't work like you used to.

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serious gaylord
Sep 16, 2007

what.

Rapey Joe Stalin posted:

Biostrip 20. Works better, faster, and isn't noxious.

As easily available in the UK?

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