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richyp posted:A pretty simple 3 step skin tone I like to use is, thinned tallarn, agrax/devlan wash then tallarn plus bone (approximately 5:1) which you can build up if it's too dark. Why do you recommend agrax/devlan wash rather than flesh wash?
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Nov 7, 2012 22:14
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LoG posted:It's tempting, my pugs nose is pretty dry and cracking. LGS might work better than vaseline. Try this instead of either solution you mentioned above http://www.walgreens.com/store/c/mane-%27n-tail-hoofmaker-hand-%26-nail-therapy/ID=prod10975-product (on the dog, not your models)
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Nov 8, 2012 20:03
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LumberingTroll posted:I Think I need help, I have way to much sitting around, and no time to work on any of it Oh that is nothing; find a copy of Achtung Schweinehund!: A Boy's Own Story of Imaginary Combat and see just how few little army mans you own. Hell I probably have more than you and I don't even have as much talent in painting, nor a dedicated work space.
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Nov 13, 2012 22:19
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One time I caught an insurgent this big!
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Nov 19, 2012 16:46
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signalnoise posted:How in the world do you paint a miniature with an airbrush? Wouldn't it be basically impossible to do without loving up details? I suppose this is just for big flat surfaces or something, or for base layers? Like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PIFtCipLpA
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Nov 25, 2012 17:54
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Adrian Finol posted:Been working on this fellow for the last couple of nights. Hopefully I'll be done tonight! I already got good feed back from others and I used it and failed on my Infinity minis; but what is your process for skin?
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Nov 29, 2012 20:05
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Adrian Finol posted:For this model: Thanks. I guess I just suck as skin tones. I need to test out my skin painting one some lovely minis I don't like. edit: I've been painting orks for over a year, so finely detailed human models with a normal skin tone skin is hard to do after so many comedy fungus monsters. Don't worry I'll keep ta it. Thanks for the support. \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Nov 29, 2012 |
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Nov 29, 2012 20:28
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krushgroove posted:I bought waaay too many empty dropper bottles and paint jars - I decanted some white gesso (my backup 'oh poo poo my paint isn't sticking' supply) into a 20ml jar...from a 1 liter tub! ...does anyone want any white gesso? Be careful to use something that won't rust. A friend but BBs in his paint and had to toss them all after the BB started to rust. The skulls in reaper paints are pewter and too large to get caught in the spout. I'd recommend using a glass bead to get the job done for your own paints.
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Dec 11, 2012 16:38
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Some goon said placing their paints in their sonic bath did a great job of mixing paint. I tried it once and didn't see any huge results, possibly I didn't leave them long enough, but you could give it a try.
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Dec 11, 2012 17:31
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krushgroove posted:That is a cool mix of basing stuff, really - is it all Silfor stuff? White chocolate Terminators, yummy!
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Dec 26, 2012 01:23
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GW brand no. Stuff you can use for this hobby, yes. Knives, terrain stuff, modelling supplies etc. but no miniatures.
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Jan 14, 2013 22:37
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Verdugo posted:The one by me is carrying Vallejo model paints, which is a big plus. Mine too, but it is mostly military colors for scale model builders.
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Jan 15, 2013 16:23
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Anyone have a guess what these guys are worth? Commander 401005 and Lieutenant Olsen (chainsword) http://www.solegends.com/citrt/rtimpguard109-01.htm http://www.solegends.com/citrt/rto5ig96-01.htm
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Jan 19, 2013 19:06
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signalnoise posted:Did I make the right purchase just buying an Ottlite? I like to think its pretty good at the color of light it gives It's one of the lights I use and it works well to cut down on eye strain. Lethemonster posted:Sedition Wars You should have received the Core Game Box as well as the Green and Blue Dice, the Patch, a Lithograph, Extra Strain models plus bases, Extra Vanguard models plus bases. Everything else should ship in the release in March. Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Jan 22, 2013 |
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Jan 22, 2013 20:53
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serious gaylord posted:I finished some things today. The Dark Angels Limited Edition chaplain I think they are amazing. What is your gold technique?
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Jan 24, 2013 17:23
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I'm feeling better and better about having sold my set. I hope that there are no other surprises for you guys.
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Jan 28, 2013 22:45
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Good to know as I will be keeping the terrain and the "Not Serenity Crew" when they ship.
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Jan 29, 2013 03:07
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Mutant Headcrab posted:I'm a Heroclix player and I've had some miniatures that are atrociously painted, even for a pre-painted miniature. I'd like to remedy this. According to the internet, Simple Green does nothing and careful use of acetone is preferred. Does anyone know of any other substance that would be effective in stripping a pre-painted miniature? I'd rather not use acetone if I can help it. Just prime over pre-painted minis and go from there.
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Jan 30, 2013 18:02
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klosterdev posted:I made a Pathfinder character based off of Banjo/Kazooie, which I made via a lot of planning and the Advanced Race Guide. I could barely find any bird miniatures so I ordered one on amazon and it turned out to be waaay too big. I ordered an upright dire bear for Banjo in the meantime but it's probably not medium sized and is just a placeholder. Game-wise, the (biped) bear is medium sized and the bird is small. Where can I find miniatures like that? I'm looking for both painted and unpainted.  http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/bear/latest/02753#detail/02753_jj  http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/bear/latest/14452#detail/IG_348_1  http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/bear/latest/03456#detail/03456_w_1  http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/bird/sku-down/P02934B  http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/bird/sku-down/P10024B You can also look for yourself here Bears http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/animal%20bear Birds http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/bird
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Feb 1, 2013 20:45
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Fauxtool posted:
How much was it?
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Feb 2, 2013 01:32
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I have an in-line filter that I use with my air compressor (which is a mini-shop type capable of 100psi which I use for airbrushing and general shop stuff like pumping up bike tires) the filter ensures I don't get excess water from condensation or other crap from my tank mixing into my paint or primer. http://www.harborfreight.com/inline-desiccant-dryerfilter-68215.html http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...s.jsp?locale=en (My exact model isn't sold any longer but I got one close to this on sale near Christmas one year for around $40)
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Feb 4, 2013 19:42
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Because it is probably mildly corrosive like concrete is. They possibly mean do not use an un-gloved hand and touch their product when it is wet. edit: or possibly to ensure you get a smooth mixture before it starts setting up you need a machine to do the mixing. if it sets in 25 minutes it might be cutting it close to get a proper hand mix and get it into your mold before it starts to get tough to work with. 2nd edit: yes that's why, short working times and a need for really good consistency. Though at the volumes we are talking you could probably get away with it. I'm assuming they are referring to people who would try to hand mix a garden statue sized piece; the stuff would likely be set up before they got to the pour. Average sized jobs and miniatures sized jobs are two very different things, and lots of people don't mess with miniatures. Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Feb 4, 2013 |
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Feb 4, 2013 21:32
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thiswayliesmadness posted:I forgot how handy the dollar store can be for spare bits. 16 wheels (off 4 throwaway cars) for $2? Considering it can be $0.50 off ebay per wheel from bit sites, I'll take that deal. Dollarama is truly a Big Mek's best friend. Bad Munki posted:What do you mean? I'm basically following the methods described right on hirst's own website. Also, I pounded for a good while until bubbles stopped coming up, so I suspect it's okay. And in any event, this is the first cast, so it's supposed to be a trash cast anyhow. When the weather gets warmer hit some yard sales and you can get one of these for less than $5 (I got mine for $1).  Also if you somehow missed it follow Hirst's wet water method. http://www.hirstarts.com/casting/advanced.html#wet
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Feb 5, 2013 21:55
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This thread has been telling me to shut up and use Simple Green for many months now and I am sick of it. I use Super Clean engine degreaser to strip minis and so I am conducting a test to see which does a better job of removing paint from plastic and metal miniatures. Exibit A: A Jug of Concentrated Simple Green household cleaner (Orange Scented)  Simple Green is non-toxic and biodegradable. It is also an eye irritant, but non-mutagenic, and non-carcinogenic (so says the label). Exibit B: A Jug of Super Clean engine degreaser (formerly Castrol Super Clean)  Super Clean is biodegradable but may cause burns to eyes and skin. This warning may be accurate for eyes (I don't know I'm not clumsy enough to get it in my eyes) but I feel is unduly dire about skin burns, so to show how little skin irritation occurs I will be handling this product without the recommended gloves. Exibit C: The test subjects 2 plastic Space Marines with black primer, red and metalic paints applied and 2 metal Servitors with black primer, red, grey, black, and metalic paints applied.  Exibit D: The test chambers, 4 glass containers with gasket sealed lids.  And so the test begins at 18:30CST The Servitors  The Space Marines  As I took the photos the metalics paints in the Super Clean jars bubbled agressively. The blur in this picture around the bolter gun is the bubbling. And you can clearly see the white foamy bubbles at the top of the Super Clean above the bolter in both the first and second pictures of the Space Marine submerged in Super Clean.  And within 30 minutes had been stripped to the black primer beneath  I plan to update this experiment in the morning with follow up pictures and againh tomorrow evening when I remove the models and see what they look like after 24 hours of soaking and then after a quick going over with a tooth brush. Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Feb 8, 2013 |
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Feb 8, 2013 02:54
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Bad Munki posted:You might want to vent the jars that are bubbling before the pressure builds up to much. Don't tell me how to run my experiment  Acetone is poo poo and gives me a headache, gently caress acetone.
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Feb 8, 2013 03:00
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Since a great many miniatures are now plastic or resin does it even matter how well acetone strips metal, and furthermore I think the ability of acetone to strip metal is well established is it really necessary to document its effectiveness?
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Feb 8, 2013 03:14
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Manifest posted:Acetone sucks because it's unpredictable and can potentially destroy some materials. gently caress it. How long do you find you typically need to leave minis in Simple Green? Do you use concentrate or the diltued stuff? ghetto wormhole posted:I didn't expect you to test it, I just figured I'd throw it out there since the last time this came up people acted like using acetone was the equivalent of dumping 55 gallon drums of used motor oil in the local wildlife reserve. Fair enough. Sorry if I came off as snippy, but I really do hate that stuff. My wife can be doing her nails with it in the basement and I can smell it the moment I walk in the front door upstairs, it's dreadful smelling. Edit: As I am off to bed I just agitated all four jars. Simple Green Servitor no change Simple Green Space Marine small amount of small flakes of paint seen in the fluid Super Clean Servitor small amount of large flakes of paint seen in the fluid Super Clean Space Marine a fair amount (twice small amount) of large flakes of paint seen in the fluid Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 05:55 on Feb 9, 2013 |
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Feb 8, 2013 03:24
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Cyclomatic posted:Simple Green seems to have two levels of stripping that it can accomplish. The reason for this test was I tried soaking some metal minis in Simple Green for 4 days and even after using a tooth brush the paint wasn't coming off easily so I went out tonight to get old reliable Super Clean and decided to do a side by side comparison.
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Feb 8, 2013 03:36
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berzerkmonkey posted:'Sup, Super Clean buddy. I'm partial to Super Clean myself - I've never had any luck with Simple Green whatsoever. As for the glove warning, Super Clean is a strong base, like lye, and will cause burns and slough off skin. If you get Super Clean on your hands, after a while, your fingers feel a little slimy and smooth - that's the outer layer of skin coming off. Personally, I wear Mechanix-type gloves with a rubberised palm and fingers, and I avoid the bulk of the stuff. Then again, I also pretty much constantly rinse them in water as well, so that helps too. I know what Super Clean does to hands, but for how little I actually touch it, my hands get a tiny bit 'slimy' and then after washing are very dry, but that is the worst of it. I know I should wear gloves, but to help calm the easily frightened I am working without them to show that this stuff is relatively harmless. UPDATE: As of this morning. Simple Green Servitor small amount of small flakes of paint seen in the fluid Simple Green Space Marine small amount of large flakes of paint seen in the fluid Super Clean Servitor a large-ish amount of large flakes of paint seen in the fluid Super Clean Space Marine a large amount of large flakes of paint seen in the fluid
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Feb 8, 2013 16:36
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And now for the conclusion of the great paint strip-off. Metal Servitor straight out of the Simple Green test chamber.  Metal Servitor straight out of the Super Clean test chamber.  Plastic Space Marine straight out of the Simple Green test chamber.  Plastic Space Marine straight out of the Super Clean test chamber.  Simple Green Metal Servitor after approximately 60 seconds of scrubbing with a toothbrush.   Super Clean Metal Servitor after approximately 30 seconds of scrubbing with a toothbrush.   Simple Green Plastic Space Marine after approximately 60 seconds of scrubbing with a toothbrush.   Super Clean Plastic Space Marine after approximately 30 seconds of scrubbing with a toothbrush.   Simple Green on the Left Super Clean on the Right  Notice how the one on the right is out of his slotta base? That's because Super Clean weakened the super glue bonds and he popped right out when being scrubbed. Simple Green on the Left Super Clean on the Right  You can clearly see that the Simple Green Marine still has most of his primer coat on while it was nearly all stripped away from the Super Clean Marine. The reason for the different scrubbing times is that I stopped only when the mini looked like it had stopped shedding paint and primer, but it only appears to take half as long to stop shedding paint and primer with Super Clean soaked minis. But how did my hands hold up?  Just kidding this is stripped red paint from an ork that I was working on. My hand is find, just a little slimy and pruney as expected, even after stripping 34 models.  Some of those models were vehicles that some dim bulb had "primed" with gloss black spray paint.  (This image is actually post soaking [24 hours in Super Clean] but those of you that have seen gloss primed minis know what I was dealing with.) This is after some light scrubbing and wiggling the parts now that the super glue bond was weakend.  Pretty snazzy, huh? In conclusion. Simple Green is an adequate stripping agent, it also smells nice and is less hazardous, to work with. It will run you $10-15 per gallon. Super Clean is a superior stripping agent, it requires less time when processing the minis, is more effective, and weakens super glue bonds holding the minis together. It costs $7-10 per gallon. Though do be aware that Super Clean will damage your skin slightly if you don't use gloves. WINNER:  SUPER CLEANThank you for your time and attention. Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Feb 9, 2013 |
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Feb 9, 2013 04:23
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SERPUS posted:Was there any damage to the plastic in the Super Clean? None. I've had stuff soak for weeks with no softening of the plastic. (I have never tried stripping resin, but I don't see why it would be any different.) Fix posted:Whelp, I'm sold. Sort of like windshield washer fluid. It really doesn't smell much at all. Also I forgot to mention that you should keep the liquid, it is reusable for at least 3-4 soakings.
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Feb 9, 2013 05:07
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Swagger Dagger posted:I'm going to have to put a bunch of stuff into storage for a while. Is there anything I should know about storing paints long-term? Will they all be useless when I get them out in, probably, a year? Just don't let them freeze or get way too hot and you should be OK.
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Feb 11, 2013 06:10
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Manifest posted:I felt that naming them after rappers was nowhere near as ridiculous as the horrible psuedo-latin sculpted into the armor. FYI, Big Poppa is a better Dread name than Biggie Smalls or Notorious B.I.G.
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Feb 11, 2013 20:04
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Manifest posted:Good call. 2-Pak, Big Poppa, and N8-K9? edit: possibly a little too nerdy, I dunno.
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Feb 11, 2013 20:11
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thiswayliesmadness posted:/\/\/\ Edit: Why wait? Only two months left this season so Because you did such a good job this year, we are electing you to run it again next year. 
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Feb 12, 2013 15:22
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BULBASAUR posted:One thing I'd consider with your bad rear end modular building project- making a set that looks more grimdark. I think those buildings look perfect for something like Infinity, but are a little contemporary looking for space gothic. What you don't like the Tau home planet look?
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Feb 14, 2013 22:17
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SRM posted:How does GW Ceramite White compare to the old Skull White or whatever the standard layer white is now? Getting tired of doing like 6 coats of white over light grey and still having it come out streaky or lumpy. At first release Ceramite White was clumping in the pot and was unsellable. I don't know if it has gotten any better. Personally I have switched to Golden Fluid Acrylics: Titamium White and never looked back. Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Feb 18, 2013 |
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Feb 17, 2013 23:30
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!amicable posted:I haven't really finished much in a few months, but here's what's kicking around my desk. Almost everything needs more detailing and clean up. And the photos are poo poo. I want to hate them because I typically prefer a muted color pallet, but I just can't; these are pretty cool.
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Feb 21, 2013 17:01
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Gesso is garbage and only allowed if you live somewhere with 90%+ humidity and don't have the money for an airbrush and vallejo primer.
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Feb 23, 2013 03:56
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Swagger Dagger posted:I've used gesso more or less exclusively for years since there's no good place to spray in my apartment complex + it's super humid here, and it's fine. Anyone who's saying it's complete garbage is just being dogmatic about their chosen method of painting space mans. Or I used gesso and found it to be terrible and so recommend that others don't bother. Less dogma, more experimentation and observation. Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Feb 23, 2013 |
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Feb 23, 2013 17:47
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