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So a buddy of mine is starting up a Pathfinder campaign. I'm thinking of rolling up an inquisitor and need a mini. The best one I've found is:http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/Pathfinder/latest/60046#detail/60046_p_1_nic (sorry but Waffleimages is down). The problem is... I'm playing a dude. I've never done a conversion before (hell I just started painting minis again a couple of months ago), but how hard would it be to dude that figure up? I'm thinking drilling out the chest, filling with putty, and using an xacto to do some detail work. How wrong am I?
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Sep 9, 2010 21:31
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Miles O'Brian posted:I have their Iconic Bard and Alchemist. I love some of their stuff. If I don't do an inquisitor then I'm playing a summoner and using that Alchemist. The Pathfinder Iconic series is easily one of the nicest lines of RPG minis I've seen. The Exalted ones were really nice too but they're out of print. Seriously, I don't get how Reaper can just knock it out of the park with their licensed stuff while (most of) the Dark Haven line just feels so generic.
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Sep 10, 2010 07:33
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Tadhg posted:More questions! I use 3ml of Golden Acrylic Flow Release to 30ml of distilled water. I'll add more or less depending on the paint I'm thinning but it gives a pretty good flow. For example: Beastly Brown gets about 1 drop of flow release mixture to one drop of paint. Escorpina Green is already pretty thin so I'll add maybe 1 drop of release mixture to every three drops of paint. I'm still horrible at painting but things look a fair bet less chunky since I started thinning them.
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Nov 21, 2010 04:30
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needs to know!
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I need advice: Click here for the full 800x600 image. What can I try to make these guys look less terrible. I already screwed up by trying something stupid (doing the highlight first and then the base color over that staying away from edges) what can I do to make them look more... not poo poo?
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Nov 21, 2010 06:09
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HKR posted:Is this your first figure? Unfortunately I've assembly lined the whole unit like that so they came out consistent. All I can do at this point is give it another layer of Cygnar Blue base over the splotchy areas to even it out some. I have P3 armor wash, Devlen mud, and Ogryn Flesh. I'm going to hit the hell out of it with the armor wash once the colors are a little more even, but do you think a coat of Devlin would help or just make it look dirty?
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Nov 21, 2010 08:53
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Tadhg posted:Citadel metallics: yes. They thin fine, and it really does make application smoother. e:^^^ Yeah, except the touchy golds. I've found that I don't like straight Vallejo metallics. They looks too much like cheap metallic spray paint. I find that doing 4:1 mixture of metallic paint to non metallic paint give me a more subdued and meatlly color. It also helps thinning them down a bit so they don't glomp up or separate out when I thin them.
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Nov 22, 2010 20:55
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. They're too thick to use straight, but thinning makes them a horrible glittery mess. I thin as little as I have to; the best way I've found is just to have excessive water on the brush. Still a pain.
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Decent comes readily to mind. The Castle Ravenloft board game has a fair number of minis that come with it. And if you're up for a challenge, Arkham Horror with some of these would be pretty cool.
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Nov 25, 2010 04:53
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Bullet Proof posted:or if you're especially crazy you could try using the crushed lightbulb method
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Nov 30, 2010 22:37
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Bullet Proof posted:uhh yea, that last part of my post was a joke, i nearly choked on my drink when i saw that article. i really wasnt advocating that people play with crushed lightbulbs I'm not saying you were. But sooner or later someone is going to try that and gently caress themselves up real good. And it's not like they'll be able to bitch at the guy, because blogspot blogs aren't braille friendly.
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Dec 1, 2010 04:46
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So I've over gesso'd my bile thralls. Do I just dump them in a cup of pinesol for a few minutes or is there another way to strip them? They're pewter minis on plastic bases. Also I have a ton of Epic 40k minis I want to switch from "sort of Blood Angels" to Ultramarines, do I just paint over them or is there a way to strip those without dissolving them?
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Dec 11, 2010 07:40
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Bachtere posted:Reaper Ice Toad I painted as a Christmas present. This toad has licked itself. It is also pretty awesome.
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Dec 17, 2010 06:44
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SRM posted:Ogryn Flesh would like to have a word with you. The first time I opened my pot of Ogryn Flesh I thought one of my dogs had farted and/or died.
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Dec 28, 2010 00:13
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I'd go with the former rather than the later. The model cement is probably too goopy and will get places you don't want it to be.
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Jan 1, 2011 01:09
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Those look like pre-painted figures. Not in a bad way. They're just so slickly done I could see them coming out of the box that way. Did you do everything with the airbrush or just the big flat areas?
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Jan 1, 2011 21:56
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So I've been for a few months now and while I've seen some improvement from where I was when I started out I need some advice on how to further up my game. This is the last thing I painted:  Click here for the full 800x600 image. What techniques should I look into to make my stuff look better?
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Jan 2, 2011 18:39
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How small of an area can you do with an Airbrush? Is it just used for large ares for base coating or can you do detail work with it?
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Jan 4, 2011 18:03
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Bistromatic posted:A good airbrush can go pretty small, glowing eyes and the like are no problem but keep in mind that you're never going to get hard edges unless you mask them somehow. I'm not planing on doing eyes or anything. But would this one give me a tight enough spray to do faces: http://www.harborfreight.com/deluxe-airbrush-kit-95810.html ?
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Jan 4, 2011 18:54
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ChewyLSB: Looking good so far, especially for a first effort. A couple of things: The first technique you need to develop is brush control. As you get better and better you'll develop a sense of where the paint is going as you put it on the model. When you see minis with nice clean lines it because who ever did the paint was able to get it exactly where they want. Menoth white has a strong yellow bias. That's why the studio color scheme "pops", the white areas contrast nicely with red ones without looking garish. Pure white doesn't do that. If you have Menoth White Highlight you can try it on a spare spruce to see what I mean. Your brush is probably the wrong shape for what you're trying to use. Dry brushes are usually broader and more squared off than usual brushes. As for doing crevices, learn to use washes. They settle into those fine areas to provide color and change the tone of your base coat. As far as doing the back of the back of your models, check to see if they've put in any little surprises you wouldn't expect to see from the front. If so, figure out how to accentuate them. If not, keep carrying the design cues for your scheme from the front to the back.
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Jan 6, 2011 05:51
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I just played around with dipping for the units I did for last months oath. Yeah, minwax seals the hell out them. I could probably plink away at those guys with a BB gun and not damage the paint. A few blasts of dull coat (I use the Testors stuff) killed the shine on the Trenchers I did. The Bile Thralls didn't get dulled because I want them to look kind of slick and wet. Despite the paint job not being very good I'm pretty happy overall with how they turned out. Especially since I did exactly no shading on them.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image.  Click here for the full 800x600 image. Which flavor of Minwax are you using? I used the Polyshades Clasic Oak Satin on these guys and thought it did a decent job. I might switch to a darker stain for the next unit I do.
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Jan 9, 2011 07:04
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I'm guessing it took a dive off of a table?
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Jan 10, 2011 06:37
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The way I've had it explained to me is that because the wash changes the tint of anything you put it on, you can then go back and highlight with the original base color. It's supposed to give you a more natural look as the original color is now distinct enough from the tinted base coat to pop, but not so different as to look jarring. MasterSlowPoke: God doesn't want you to have that Valk. Do not tempt his wrath, as he is an angry god, capable of much worse.
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Jan 10, 2011 07:56
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I don't know if it really matters when it comes to brands. I just went down to my local art supply store store and bought a pint of it for like $8. So far it's done about 70 points of Warmahordes and a grip of Reaper minis and I have barely put a dent in it.
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Jan 10, 2011 19:11
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Klungar posted:Having just gotten the D&D Castle Ravenloft board game that comes with a bunch of unpainted plastic miniatures, I am interested in the answer to this as well. I can't remember if the guide was posted here or somewhere else, but you should consider dipping them. Prime -> Base coats -> Dip in floor wax. It does the shading for you plus protects the crap out them so they don't get all crapped up in the box.
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Jan 17, 2011 04:50
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I went back a few pages and didn't see anything about these two: and  They're on sale right now and I'm wondering if either would be a good purchase. Here is my situation: over a year ago I rescued a kitten, which showed it's gratitude by knocking all of my Warmachine mans off their shelf, destroying a good chunk of both painted and unpainted figures, as well as my desire to paint or play. I want to change that. And I want to change that by buying something that will make my work both quicker and more consistent. The Sotar looks like a nicer brush, dual action/gravity fed, but it comes with only a fine tip and seems to be geared towards that. The 306-1 universal seems to be... well... universal. Dual action, can do gravity or siphon feed, and can adjust the spray. I'm leaning towards this one since it seems to be a good workhorse and may be a bit more lenient on me. I'm figuring to do this piece by piece and have everything by the new year.
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Nov 25, 2012 05:33
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WhiteOutMouse posted:Those look like little paint buckets. My brushes have 5-7cc. You might have some issues having to mix up the same basecoat over and over. BlackIronHeart posted:Yeah, I've got a Paasche Talon, which has a .4oz cup, and it's waaaay bigger than both of those but also waaaaaay small for basecoating more than 10 Marines at a time. Well the Universal can be set up as siphon feed like so:  I want to say those are 3/4oz jars, which is a grip of paint.
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Nov 25, 2012 17:29
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signalnoise posted:How in the world do you paint a miniature with an airbrush? Wouldn't it be basically impossible to do without loving up details? I suppose this is just for big flat surfaces or something, or for base layers? I would still use a brush for details and fine work. But after painting an entire Khador Battlegroup by hand I know there has to be a better way. I just want to be able to do do big flat areas, or an entire units armor, quickly and consistently. Devlan Mud posted:How else are you gonna paint whizzards on the side of all your Rhinos? I'ma build a Stormstrider with Nemo painted on the side.
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Nov 25, 2012 17:41
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Since I haven't seen any "Do Not Buy Under Any Circumstance!" warnings either here or on other sites I've narrowed my selection down to either the Badger 360 or the Thayer & Chandler T70. They're identical except the "head" portion. Any reason to prefer the Omni design over the Badger one?
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Nov 26, 2012 06:43
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Swags posted:Anyone have any good guides for how to make realistic looking fur using modeling putty? I have a scaled figure I wanna turn into a furred figure and I don't want to totally botch it. It might help if you post the figure your going to work with and give a rough idea of what you want to accomplish. I'm a terrible painter but from what I've done with some Circle Ouroboros models it seems like fur is about 90% dry brushing and 10% actual texture.
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Nov 28, 2012 05:49
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