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I'm painting a bunch of orcs myself (though not so well!,) and I'm having trouble finishing my models because things aren't going the way I wanted them to when I set out. My procedure is as such: - white primer - pre-watered paints down in separate containers - paint layers until I am happy with recessed areas. In this case, skin is light green, clothing purple, and everything else is brown. - hit the raised areas with the same paint, only thicker. The green I'm using is very light, almost a GW Scorpion Green, and this process has worked wonderfully on the skin - I'm very happy with it. The darker colors are another story, though. I feel like by the time I get a solid dark color down over white primer, my plan is impossible. The models look really good for the first few coats (though obviously unfinished) and as the darker colors get filled in it just looks flatter and blander and blotchier. Where should I go from here? Get an eye dropper and mix white paint in? I wanted to avoid mixing paint, but it's starting to look like I'll have to. tl;dr Help I can only paint snotlings!
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Apr 16, 2013 04:50
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BULBASAUR posted:
Like two-brush blending, or whatever it is? Can I do that with white, or should I find a lighter purple?
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Apr 16, 2013 07:44
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Nebalebadingdong posted:
What is the trick to getting wood to look like this?
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Apr 24, 2013 05:56
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Khorne Flakes posted:I will always recommend Dawn Power Dissolver over anything for striping models. You can strip models in only about 15 minutes of soaking it. But get some kind of gloves when you do it, or you'll hand will remind you all week why. I just bought a bottle of this stuff earlier this week and I can testify that it's absurdly strong, much faster than simple green, and will also help itself to your fingerprints if you don't wear gloves. Stuff looks like napalm jelly if you pour it out of the bottle. It will get pretty much anywhere a toothbrush can reach factory fresh, even on plastic.
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Apr 26, 2013 21:58
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What brands do you guys use for varnishing? I've read here to spray gloss varnish on first, since it's harder, then do matte varnish to kill the reflectiveness, but the one time I bought some varnish in the past I just wrecked some models. As I go through my Oath stuff I want to get it all nice and sealed (esp. since I'm going to use it on a tabletop) but I don't really know what to use As an aside, spraying varnish all over my poo poo is going to dull out the washes I put on, right? I don't see why it wouldn't.
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May 10, 2013 00:41
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Deanut Pancer posted:If you over-do this bit, you'll end up giving the model a frosty appearance. That's what happened. I still have the spray varnish from before, so maybe I'll give it a shot on something expendable, change up my technique, and see if that helps.
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May 10, 2013 01:10
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I have a display case for model cars that's mirrored in the back that's about four feet across diagonally and about five inches deep. It's got a clear plastic panel in front that's hinged on the top, so dust doesn't get in there so easily. It was meant to hold 21 cars, but each compartment easily holds thirty or so dudes and most vehicles, so long as they aren't too tall or wide. Makes for easy classification. edit: stuff like this works well https://www.google.com/search?q=model+car+cases&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=D5jkUfqfLK-xygH60oA4&sqi=2&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1920&bih=927
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Jul 16, 2013 01:46
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I gotta say, I like that dude an awful lot better than the 40k Catachans kit that he's so similar to. His pose and musculature are realistic, and his mouth isn't hanging open!
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Aug 13, 2013 01:43
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 I'm finally starting to hit my stride with these orcs and goblins, four months into oathing. Can anyone help me with getting good, solid yellows (no airbrush?) They look better in this picture than they do in person. Right now I use averland sunset as a base, get it with agrax earthshade, and then try to lighten it with yriel yellow as much as possible, but the going is always rough.
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Aug 28, 2013 20:28
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berzerkmonkey posted:You don't suck - you just don't have experience. Very few people paint a good mini early on - take a look a few pages back for the "Then and Now" proof. I dunno, I kinda like the red rims. The bright, solid color on the bottom does a lot to tie them together; if it was a dark brown or a grey they'd look like a muddled mess. On the subject of that, two quick things I see that you can do to improve the look of your future stuff: 1. Now that you've busted out the washes, you've got some super obvious mould lines on your dudes, especially on the arms. Wash clings to those lines like no other, so you need to get rid of them somehow. With orcs, I just take a hobby knife and shave them off, but with a nice model you'd want to get some files. 2. Basecoat + wash gets you nice dark crevasses but splotchy areas. If you get your green paint back out, something lighter, and go over the parts that aren't a uniform dark color once or twice, you'll have a much more solid color that doesn't look unrealistically flat. Basecoat > Wash > Layer is the quick and easy way to making your rank and file duders look good.
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Aug 30, 2013 21:12
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berzerkmonkey posted:You tie your models together with a cohesive color selection on the model itself, not on the base. For instance, one guy has a red hat, one has a red pouch, one has a red gun, etc. Yeah, you shouldn't have bases of all different colors, but the base shouldn't be the focal point. Also, he wouldn't have to paint the base rim a dark brown or grey - he could go a lighter brown, for instance. Oh, I realize that, I just meant that right now it's better than nothing for tying together his models. Without the bases they're just dark and rusty and vaguely green. Your army is a lot more careful in having something prominent painted red in every unit, so it all looks like it belongs. On his it's mostly on the shirts, which are hard to see, and the fiddly bits. If the helmets were all red or something, that would be best, I think. If it were me I'd paint the helmets + some element of the gun casing/weapon the accent color.
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Aug 30, 2013 22:05
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Bo-Pepper posted:
You're in luck; I've been spamming my friend with tau schemes I've seen posted here and in the oath thread that I thought were cool. Here's a few of the good ones:         I don't know what colors these schemes are, precisely, but for the most part they follow a pattern that's true of many armies. 1. Primary army color. Most of the model is basically a single color. On Tau, that's usually the armor plating. 2. Secondary color. This is a color that gets used on the mechanical poo poo behind the plating and the fabric on the firewarriors and pathfinders. It's usually darker than the main color, so as not to overwhelm the primary one. 3. Accent color. This is a bright color that's used to call attention to or differentiate units that would otherwise look the same. Your leader looks a lot more impressive when he's set off with this color rather than just saying "we'll he's the crisis suit with the two plasma guns." With tau, a lot of times it's accomplished by painting the helmet differently (this happens with marines, too.) Tau skin is blue by fluff, so sergeants and poo poo have this effect naturally if they don't wear helmets. 4. Fiddly poo poo color. This color is for when you need to differentiate parts but need to do it in something else so it won't get confused with your accent color. It gets used for scopes and doo-dads and other stuff. The dudes in the first image by Booley fit the four-color scheme pretty well: They're predominantly olive green, the primary army color. they are secondarily black, a color for the guns and mechanics that doesn't overwhelm the green. He uses bright blue to set off his unit leader (they all get a little blue, of course, since they are Cool Dudes in crisis suits) and they all have brown on them in different areas to individualize. Between his color scheme and his posing, you have three models that are basically identical but have an individual feel. A final thing to think about is what colors you want to *exclude* from your scheme. Your guys can be defined by the absence of a color, too. I don't think Booley made a whole army out of these green dudes (was it a kill-team?) but I really doubt if he did you'd see any red, orange, or yellow in it. tl;dr Pick a bold color for your armor, a dark color for your under-parts, a bright color for your special guys, and a complimentary color for your fiddly poo poo.
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Sep 3, 2013 07:03
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Heat helps a lot in the stripping process. If you can heat the whole mixture of minis and solvent and water up, things will go a lot easier. Just don't get it so hot you're messing with the integrity of the models.
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Sep 6, 2013 21:06
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Bucnasti posted:I've read somewhere that you can use Dawn Power Dissolver to strip individual parts of a model. It's kind of a gel so you could apply it with a brush to just parts of the model. You might even be able to mask the rest of the model. The stuff is potent and works fast so you'll have to be careful not to get it where you don't want it. Yeah, it's really concentrated into a napalm-like gel, so you can just dunk the heads, let it sit, and brush it off. It'll run a little bit, but I imagine you could just suspend the model upside-down for the ten or twenty minutes. It won't take long on pewter at all.
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Oct 7, 2013 10:49
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demota posted:
It's either too humid or your can is toast. The dusty look happens when too much of the paint goes weird in the air on its way to the model. Unfortunately, if you put the can up really close, the propellant will gnaw on the plastic and pit it instead. The only way to win is to buy an airbrush, but only if you have the space to use it 
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Oct 10, 2013 07:14
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NTRabbit posted:My first Oath cross post! What size brush are you using for your dudes? I had the same kind of problems going on with my models, and what really improved it for me was using a bigger brush and somewhat thinner paint. It looks like what happened on the Infinity models is that you had some unthinned paint on a really small brush and you had wrestled with the surface tension just to get it to cover the primer. There's no way you can do all the details AND cover up all the primer all at once, really.
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Nov 1, 2013 05:39
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Oxford Comma posted:Anyone have any suggestions for making wood look good in WHFB war engines? This is also eluding me. A while ago someone posted some wheels off a screaming bell or something with retardedly crisp and awesome looking wood grain. When I asked how they did it, they just said "well I got some brown here and some nuln oil and there you go" but all my attempts to reproduce it have been a lovely mess. Like, to an extent, I can paint the wash directly into the cracks of the wood grain, but this really depends on the sculpt and what's going on with the model; if the grain isn't very deep, I can't get the contrast to come out at all.
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Nov 12, 2013 05:32
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Lethemonster posted:Finally: Richyp if you want you can pull any of the info from my blog for your new aggregate thing. I assembled lots of good blog links, shops, walkthroughs etc on it and wrote some articles myself. I might write some more - I always want to do my own blog but don't really have the time or drive to do consistent updates a couple of times a week. What is the blog again, anyway? I can't find a link in the last few pages.
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Nov 26, 2013 22:47
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JoshTheStampede posted:Yes, exactly that. Selling bits themselves would be GW taking a cut on their bottom line in order to provide a service that hobbyists really enjoy and that makes customers happy in the long term, which is the opposite of GW's business strategy in recent years. It sounds like bitching grognard poo poo but I really do think they made the decision that they were not a sustainable business model long term so might as well get as much money up front as they can before it falls through. I'm a nerd who is bad with money and has enough disposable income that I don't really worry about hobby expenditures and I quit shortly after 6th edition 40k, despite liking the edition WAY more than 5th, because it just became too expensive to even maintain 1 army, much less think about starting a new one. I'm gonna guess it's an inventory thing as well. Back in the day they probably had a big stupid warehouse where there were thousands of bins of poo poo, but now that they've moved to boxes, it's a lot cheaper/easier/faster/everything to keep a small stock and make them month by month on demand. It probably saved them an awful lot of money and overhead on recordkeeping. Back in the day I bet they didn't even keep track of bits, just dumped in damaged merchandise or something. Maybe some greybeard would come up to the front office and say "We need more Grand Theogenist codpieces."
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Dec 2, 2013 00:58
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Caddrel posted:I forgot to ask about gluing as well. Aren't the fumes from plastic glue harmful? I'm guessing I should just super-glue everything rather than have plastic glue fumes filling up my studio apartment. The amount you'll need is pretty modest as long as you don't eat it or something. Best lesson of glue is that less is more; you want part : glue: part, not part : glue : paint: glue : more glue : paint: part. Keep it simple and it should be easy. Actually, if I were you, I'd just superglue all your models for now, because plastic cement welds a bond. If these are your first models, some day you are gonna come back and want to re-do them, and you'll be pissed if you welded everything together all retarded. I speak from experience. If you don't like a superglue bond, you can just toss the model in the freezer for a half hour and it'll snap right off. Plastic cement, on the other hand, is forever.
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Dec 3, 2013 20:04
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On the topic of less is more, I want to share my rattlecan method because I've been spraying a lot of dudes lately. I used to piss through a lot of spray paint because I'd stand the models up (usually taping them down so they wouldn't tip over) on a box top and spray them like that. I've saved an awful lot of spray paint by laying them down in a circle, bases pointed inward. Doing that, you can spray in gentle arcs rather than off into space, and you can rotate the box top with your wrist and make sure that all the time you are spraying, you're getting a model, and not the bottom of a base or nothing. It's easy to piss through primer if you aren't thinking about it.
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Dec 3, 2013 20:26
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Booley posted:Does anyone else find that crisis suits are awful to paint? I love painting everything else in the tau army, but can't stand crisis suits for some reason. No rivets, must be a dream 
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Dec 4, 2013 08:02
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Renaissance painters and alchemists will know your shameful secret!
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Dec 6, 2013 04:55
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A little heat will go a long way, too. You'll have to be a bit careful not to destroy your poo poo in the process, but stuff strips a lot better when it's nice and warm.
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Dec 11, 2013 02:29
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Monster w21 Faces posted:Do you see this as being a result of living in a post YouTube world? I suppose we've come a long way from reading Dr. Faust painting tutorials and he is all "I watered my paint down 9:1 and picked out the raised areas" leading to me trying to put paint on my dude two molecules at a time
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Dec 12, 2013 11:42
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serious gaylord posted:I've really enjoyed my painting this year. I've found myself moving more and more into a more 'realistic' style of painting although I do still like to dip my toe into the Eavy metal style now and then. My photography improved as did the way I display them when they're done. I have Lorgar sat on my desk and big plans for trying new techniques next year too. What are you guys going to do? Welp I think I'm gonna paint some 3pt night goblins, much like last year 
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Dec 14, 2013 06:04
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Lethemonster posted:Oh my god I need a Rumpagon. Reminds me a lot of Jazzuo's game Hermies. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMLRVLs5MqU
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Dec 17, 2013 02:46
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I don't usually crosspost from the oath thread, but I'm proud of my mortar/doom diver.  
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Dec 31, 2013 15:55
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What is your bone secret? I keep having to paint bone in my army but I still haven't decided how to make it look any good.
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Jan 20, 2014 02:34
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Indolent Bastard posted:You could try Deal Extreme Deal Extreme is king, if you're willing to be patient. I just got 300 4mm x 2mm magnets in for 14 bucks last week. Catch was that I ordered them before Christmas.
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Jan 24, 2014 00:28
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 Crosspost from the oath thread. Too much OSL, or not enough?
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Feb 1, 2014 22:23
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Pacheeco posted:I feel like it's too much and it's too "solid" for light. Like it's such an intense light source my brain wants it to extend onto the paper towel and table and farther out onto more of the minis in the line but it just abruptly ends half way on each model to the sides and at the front. Also there isn't a gradual enough light transition and it's kind of hard to tell where the light is coming from at first glance because there is no light being cast forward from the head thing, it's being cast backwards which I guess COULD happen but it's kind of weird seeing it on a miniature and it's also being cast perfectly to the sides but not forward which makes no sense to my eyes. Additionally the OSL seems like it is extending farther on the bases of the models than it is on the models themselves which is detracting from the effect. With a piece like this where the light source is being held so far forward I think a more subtle OSL effect that just hits that one model and the ground around him would look a lot better because from that set up my brain perceives the light as being like magically stopped by some light stopping force field at the front of the bases. If there was another rank in front and behind the light source you could extend it onto them and it would make the OSL look more cohesive as a large source of light creating a sphere of illumination instead of creating a line. Also it might just be the color choices but it actually looks more like they are turning into ice than they are being lit up. Yeah, it was my first attempt at doing OSL. I got the same criticism elsewhere - it's not quite clear what is giving off the light. This would have made a better unit filler in the middle of a group, I guess, then I could do light off all sides and have it make a bit more sense. At least I know I can paint a model turned to ice, now 
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Feb 2, 2014 00:23
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SUPER NEAT TOY posted:
You've kind of answered your own question - you do the same sorts of things on the model that the artist did in the comic.
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Feb 5, 2014 00:18
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Phoon posted:Anybody got any pics of models with objects suspended in mid air with wires and such I'd like to take a look at some, see how it looks, especially if the wires are painted to look like magic effects or something. One quick way to get a long, thin stick is to just grab a piece of sprue, heat it up under a lighter and pull it almost apart. Less fiddling than working with wire, as long as you don't put it under any sort of stress.
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Feb 16, 2014 23:08
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Rapey Joe Stalin posted:My next method to test would be to take a white undercoat, base it in Yriel, then seal it with gloss before applying shading and secondary colours. Then rely on some mineral spirits to clean the model up again. Not sure how well that would work to remove excess wash or clumsy paint dabs though. Is your pot of Yriel yellow as horrible as mine? I try to use mine and unless I thin it absolutely perfectly its brushstroke city since it won't self-level at all.
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Mar 15, 2014 22:20
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Deofuta posted:With three models finished I decided my hands were a bit too shaky to get the fine details I want to work towards. I saw some guy on youtube using an odd looking contraption and managed to find it on amazon listed as a helping hand with magnifying glass. Now I've got one on the way, including a shear flush cutter. I've also seen people use larger pieces of cork with wire stuck in them, do any of y'all use these to help the process? I usually wind up contorting myself when I'm painting details to steady myself at several points. It's not very comfortable. The trick to getting good details, I think, is to use as large of a brush as you are able, provided it has a good tip. Smaller brushes make it harder to control the flow of paint, so don't break them out unless it's really necessary. Many new painters just grab the smallest brush they can find and then despair as their models take for loving ever to finish and they still don't look any good. When it comes to the thing you linked, I think that would be more awkward than useful, unless your eyes were bad. Nobody's going to look at it with a magnifying glass, after all, so it's probably better to aim for a way that looks good to the un-aided eye.
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Mar 19, 2014 00:03
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Pilgrimski posted:Drink more wine or fancy bottled beer! Yeah, drink and paint. There are a lot of things I can't do very well when I drink, but painting isn't one of them - I don't think you could really tell the difference between my sober painting and four beers in, except that it was a lot slower.
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Mar 19, 2014 01:04
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Lord Of Texas posted:Does anyone have any recommendations for materials that can be used for molding "hilly" bases other than green stuff? I've had a lot of luck with green stuff, but it's obviously expensive to use for an entire army for that purpose. I use aluminum foil for bulk filling and superglue it in place. It doesn't cost or weigh anything, which is pretty cool.
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Mar 24, 2014 21:50
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Weirdo posted:
He looks good but I'd be worried about the color scheme. Like dishwasherlove said, it's very dark. For one model, it's fine, but if you have 20 (or 50!) it's not going to look very cool at all. It seems like once you rank them up all you'd see was a lot of brown and black and a few dots of green for the ears and noses. Everything visually interesting on the model is on the front side of him, and you won't be able to see it since he's hunched over. I like that blade, though, that's a cool rust effect.
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Mar 27, 2014 12:11
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 00:02 |
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What would you guys recommend for painting rock, like on bases? I have no idea what I'm doing, but I have a large rock that an orc is standing on and I don't want it to look so booooring.
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Apr 16, 2014 00:56
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