|
Phone posted:You only have to worry about your credit score for a car loan if it's sub 700. You should be able to get the prime rate with any lender with a 740. Thanks for the feedback. Any website I should use for pricing guidance? Besides the Toyota Prius V, are there any other wagons with good MPG that are considered safe/quality buys? Any year models I should watch out for? Honestly, if I can get a good wagon new for under 20k, I'd like to do that.
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2016 21:13
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 10:13 |
|
|
Phone posted:My friend had a MY2011 or 2012 Sonata with the 2.0T motor, and the DBW system is tuned to give you 80% throttle at 10% gas pedal because it leaves a good impression of "this car is quick" on the test drive. When you actually floor it, it doesn't go/pull noticeably faster/harder because it already gave you most of what it had. This is how the dbw subarus, including the new wrx, are and it's annoying enough that I wrote them off for myself.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2016 21:14
|
|
|
Well, it would be subjective but you'd be going from one company that has come under heat for falsifying emissions and fuel economy numbers to a company that has been under fire for their fuel economy numbers. Real life fuel economy numbers for Hyundai's fleet have come in under their EPA/sticker ones. For MPG wagons, you're kinda SOL for your price point (outside of moving out of the country). Subaru has wagons... but they all barely hover around 30mpg these days and VA has a few weeks worth of time where the AWD comes in handy. Volvo's offerings start at $36k, so that nixxes that idea. For giggles, I took a look at BMWs lineup and the 3 wagon starts at $44k. No bueno. Mazda didn't bring over the 6 wagon. The Civic hatch is a bit on the smaller side. And everything else is crossover hell as you've discovered. E: mixed up the two posters looking for wagons. If you're fine with sedans, a used Lexus ES300h is right in your price point. Phone fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Dec 9, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2016 21:20
|
|
|
Phone posted:Well, it would be subjective but you'd be going from one company that has come under heat for falsifying emissions and fuel economy numbers to a company that has been under fire for their fuel economy numbers. Real life fuel economy numbers for Hyundai's fleet have come in under their EPA/sticker ones. Huh, wasn't aware of Hyundia MPG issues. Also hadn't considered a used Lexus.... that looks pretty dope.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2016 21:31
|
|
|
Phone posted:Well, it would be subjective but you'd be going from one company that has come under heat for falsifying emissions and fuel economy numbers to a company that has been under fire for their fuel economy numbers. Real life fuel economy numbers for Hyundai's fleet have come in under their EPA/sticker ones. This is all good info. Is the Ford C-Max Hybrid not very good? https://www.edmunds.com/ford/c-max-hybrid/2016/wagon/features-specs/ Or are American hybrids usually a bad idea? Edit: According to this, the Prius kinda owns the C-Max: http://www.autotrader.com/car-reviews/2016-toyota-prius-vs-2016-ford-c-max-which-is-better-251972 Dahbadu fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Dec 9, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2016 21:39
|
|
|
emocrat posted:Huh, wasn't aware of Hyundia MPG issues. Also hadn't considered a used Lexus.... that looks pretty dope. Yeah, for boring daily commuter, the value proposition of a barely used Lexus ES is pretty nuts because you can get a car that stickered for $45-50k for $30k all day long. Also, you get away from a lot of the usual pitfalls of buying used since it isn't The Ultimate Driving Machine; it's a tarted up Toyota Avalon with butt and hand warmers built for optometrists and their wives.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2016 21:40
|
|
|
Dahbadu posted:This is all good info. Is the Ford C-Max Hybrid not very good? https://www.edmunds.com/ford/c-max-hybrid/2016/wagon/features-specs/ The C-Max is basically a knockoff Prius that's worse in every way. If you get one really cheap, go for it!
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2016 21:42
|
|
|
Twerk from Home posted:The C-Max is basically a knockoff Prius that's worse in every way. If you get one really cheap, go for it! Good to know!
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2016 21:43
|
|
|
Dahbadu posted:This is all good info. Is the Ford C-Max Hybrid not very good? https://www.edmunds.com/ford/c-max-hybrid/2016/wagon/features-specs/ Ford has had some spotty reliability lately and the C-Max has been in a weird spot. A quick google is showing that Car & Driver only managed to wring 33mpg out of one. It's going to come down to test drives. Just take a weekend and see how the Prius V, C-Max, Focus, Civic hatch, and Mazda3 feel to you.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2016 21:43
|
|
|
Phone posted:Ford has had some spotty reliability lately and the C-Max has been in a weird spot. A quick google is showing that Car & Driver only managed to wring 33mpg out of one. Thanks again. I really appreciate it. Is this website a good indicator of getting fair prices or deals? https://www.edmunds.com/
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2016 21:57
|
|
|
Dahbadu posted:Thanks again. I really appreciate it. Yes it is  Edmunds is one of the industry standards. Try truecar too, though it's newer and a little less respected. Also kbb.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2016 22:07
|
|
|
Dahbadu posted:
Not really. Prius V gets way better mileage than almost anything else that competes. emocrat posted:I am actually coming from a VW Passat TDI that is being bought back. Other than it not being what I was told, I have actually really liked the car. Very comfy and has met all my needs. The complaint on the Hyundia seems very subjective, basically, its not as fast/powerful as you thought. Doesn't really scream never buy Hyundia to me, but, we all have different preferences. Sure, heres a budget: In addition to the ES300h there's also the Avalon hybrid which is essentially the same car. They were also essentially the same MSRP when new so you could have a look and see if there might be a deal on one vs the other I guess. I forget which version of the Lexus infotainment the current Es uses but some people really hate them and prefer the more simple interface in teh Toyotas.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2016 22:39
|
|
|
Dahbadu posted:Thanks again. I really appreciate it. All car sites are getting the same data from the dealers, re:pricing. Some of the sites have better price contextualization features.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2016 23:45
|
|
|
Most car dealers have worked through almost all 2016 inventory at this point. Model year changeover for tooling at the factory is in July, and dealers usually have begun to get the new model year in stock by September.
|
|
#
?
Dec 10, 2016 23:48
|
|
|
Ciaphas posted:When you say buying one off-lease, do you mean buying after the lease is over or buying a used one? I was led to understand the following about cars- On the volts in particular the residual numbers were nonsense. My ex and I leased a volt three years ago and it was supposed to be worth 23k after the lease. In reality it was more like 15. I wonder who loses money when this happens, the dealer? The manufacturer? If you got your heart set on a plug in hybrid I suppose this is the only practical option. Just remember you're buying a GM economy car for luxury car prices. Ours had all the rattles and creaks you'd expect from like a Chevy sonic.
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2016 19:05
|
|
) who likes a new car every 3-5 years
|
Proposed Budget: <$200/month (US), but we have poo poo credit (593 and 635). At least we plan on using the credit union we're part of for financing? New or Used: Used Body Style: 4 door; sedan or small crossover How will you be using the car?: Mostly city driving, occasional drives in the mountains. The most we haul are large Costco trips and our walker. What aspects are most important to you? Gas milage, reliability. If at all possible, we want something made this decade because it's going to have to last 10+ years. Our 2002 Alero is getting to be more expensive to fix than it's worth. We need new struts and the body's pretty banged up (missing 1 mirror and the other's held on with tape, bashed in front end, rear passenger window no longer works). Once we get done paying off a loan, we'll be looking for a new (to us) vehicle. The dealerships in town do push, pull, or drag trade in things a couple times a year, so we can wait for one of those to maybe manage a down payment because at least it runs.
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2016 23:37
|
|
|
Lord Zedd-Repulsa posted:Proposed Budget: <$200/month (US), but we have poo poo credit (593 and 635). At least we plan on using the credit union we're part of for financing? /implied wife of above I would really like a CVT but that's probably gonna be expensive to fix someday. If it's manual, I will need someone to teach me how to drive stick. A hatchback would be hella nice w/r/t transporting mobility aids (I hate trying to cram the rollator in the trunk, it lives in the backseat because that was the most space I could find). I would love a sturdy drivetrain; I have some bad history with racks and pinions.
|
|
#
?
Dec 11, 2016 23:44
|
|
|
Shopping on payment is a great way to get yourself screwed. You need to back that out into a loan principal and term you can live with, along with expected realistic interest rates. "We'll give you X for your trade" offers are like pretty much any other dealership offer - they're making it up somewhere else.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2016 02:55
|
|
|
I've driven a bunch of cars now and gotten a much clearer idea of what I want in a new (used) car. Insurance also cut me a larger check than expected, so my budget has gone up considerably. I really liked the 2005 Acura RSX I was driving before it got wrecked, and I'm half-tempted to just pick up another one, but I think it would be wise to go with something more modern at this point. Proposed Budget: $15,000. I could consider going above this for the perfect car, but honestly the no fun allowed frugal side of me would prefer to spend less. New or Used: Used, but prefer something relatively modern. Body Style: Hatchback preferred, but will also consider sedans and coupes. I have a strong preference for smaller cars. How will you be using the car?: Daily driver. Mostly city driving, with longer highway trips on the weekends. The ability to haul things would be nice, but isn't a requirement - I have access to my step-dad's pick-up truck on the weekends. What aspects are most important to you? Handling, interior quality, and reliability are the most important factors. I drove a 1995 Saturn SL sedan with no power steering for over a decade, so now I can't stand the extremely light and floaty steering that a lot of modern cars have. The drat thing also never broke. The RSX I replaced it with also had excellent handling and reliability, and I'd like to keep that trend going. Automatic climate control is a requirement, and I really want heated leather seats and bluetooth audio streaming as well. Fuel economy isn't terribly important; while I drive every day, I only average ~5000 miles a year. So far I've test driven the following cars:
Kefit fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Dec 12, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2016 03:34
|
|
|
Civic Si?
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2016 03:45
|
|
|
Mazda 3 is what checks the most boxes. I have a '17 GT and enjoy everything about it except for its slightly bumpy ride but it's a trade-off
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2016 04:09
|
|
|
Lord Zedd-Repulsa posted:Proposed Budget: <$200/month (US), but we have poo poo credit (593 and 635). At least we plan on using the credit union we're part of for financing? To do the math: $200/month @ 4% for 60 months is $9,900 out the door. Subtract from that your local sales tax, registration fees, and any "doc fees" that a dealer will charge you if they are unregulated in your state. Figure out the prices and never talk payment with the dealer. "We can only afford $8k" is much better than "it has to be $150/month" - they will figure out how to turn that into a hilarious commission by selling you a really crappy car at a really high price or interest rate. https://www.edmunds.com/calculators/affordability.html https://www.edmunds.com/car-buying/what-fees-should-you-pay.html Consider craigslist and a pre-purchase inspection. ($100/car)
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2016 05:28
|
|
|
Thanks for the advice. I have never car shopped before and my wife's mom made the payments on the Alero so neither of us know a ton.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2016 05:49
|
|
|
cat_herder posted:/implied wife of above Why do you want a CVT?
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2016 14:33
|
|
|
Kefit posted:I'm currently learning heavily towards a Mazda 3 hatchback from the last generation (2010 - 2013). While the current gen seems like a much nicer car overall (especially in terms of interior quality), it's going to be outside my price range at the upper trim levels I want. Is the 2.5 non-SkyActiv engine available in 2010 - 2013 Mazda 3s likely to address my acceleration concerns? Are there any other cars I should check out? I think Skyactiv came out in '12. You might be able to get more bells and whistles/newer in a Focus, and that also opens up the option of an ST, but I don't know if that would be easy to find in your price range. Worth a thought I guess.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2016 15:05
|
|
|
Earlier in this thread it was recommended I check out a used Lexus ES 300H. I am gonna test drive one soon, but I wanted to get some opinions on Lexus in general. Does any of the Toyota longevity etc carry over to Lexus? How over a barrel would I be on maintenance costs? Any known mechanical issues I should be aware of? Id be looking at stuff with about 30k miles on them, but hoping to drive it for a good long while.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2016 16:54
|
|
|
emocrat posted:Any known mechanical issues I should be aware of? No. The Lexus warranty is 4 years 50k miles insteadof 3/36 for Toyota.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2016 16:56
|
|
|
Lexus poo poo is just as reliable as Toyota if not more so. They're fancy Toyotas - dull, reliable, and slightly expensive for what you get. Maintenance costs are higher, because it's a premium brand.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2016 17:00
|
|
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Why do you want a CVT? Also, this. Any car at the ~$10k ballpark price, with a CVT (excluding the Prius) is going to be an early example of a CVT. If you don't want a manual, fine, but there's no viable reason here to exclude a traditional automatic transmission. If you're going to finance with your credit union, you should go get preapproved for an amount and interest rate before you go a whole lot further. There's always the off chance a dealership can beat it, and if they can't, you already know what your interest rate will be.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2016 18:45
|
|
|
Lord Zedd-Repulsa posted:Proposed Budget: <$200/month (US), but we have poo poo credit (593 and 635). At least we plan on using the credit union we're part of for financing? Oh and which car? How about a 2007ish Honda Civic LX automatic? EX has more bells and whistles which is just more things to go wrong. They're great little cars and are cheap to fix.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2016 19:26
|
|
|
emocrat posted:Earlier in this thread it was recommended I check out a used Lexus ES 300H. I am gonna test drive one soon, but I wanted to get some opinions on Lexus in general. Does any of the Toyota longevity etc carry over to Lexus? How over a barrel would I be on maintenance costs? Any known mechanical issues I should be aware of? Id be looking at stuff with about 30k miles on them, but hoping to drive it for a good long while. All of the Lexus stuff has either Toyota stamped or a sticker on it after once you peel back the interior. Toyota's hybrid system is basically THE SYSTEM to the point where they're leasing the technology to other car manufacturers. From a pure chassis and mechanicals standpoint, Lexus is as reliable as any given Toyota. Not to scare you off, but this rings true for any car manufacturer and brand, but the more gadgets and gizmos a car has, the higher chance you're going to wind up with something electrical breaking. It could be as simple as the power antenna not retracting, but it's probably not going to be catastrophic in any sense of the word. Usually it isn't even the wiring or controllers that go on electrical stuff, it's stuff like plastic gears getting turned into goo. This rings true for all cars, but it bears repeating: if you take your car to the dealer for everything, you will get taken for a ride. You don't need $60/each wiper blades when you can get some on Amazon on sale for $20/each. The difference between a $300 brake job and $1300 brake job is that someone is eating steak tonight and it isn't you. The ES300h is a tarted up Avalon, some things will be marginally more expensive, but if you're even tangentially mechanically inclined, you can pass the BS test with flying colors. Report back after you test drive it because I'd like to hear some feedback on it and if it was something that you were looking for.
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2016 22:31
|
|
|
Michael Scott posted:Yes it is Edmunds is the only one listed here that will come close to actual value of a car. Can we add "Don't listen to Michael Scott" to the OP, or title?
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2016 22:54
|
|
|
Nitrox posted:Edmunds is the only one listed here that will come close to actual value of a car. Can we add "Don't listen to Michael Scott" to the OP, or title? I like Edmunds a lot myself. KBB and Truecar are decent references and they get close. Truecar focuses on new cars sold by dealers. What's your beef with those?
|
|
#
?
Dec 12, 2016 23:02
|
|
|
A friend of mine just bought a 17 Chevy volt. Specifically, the dealership told him he could only buy it tomorrow due to not having the plates otherwise, had him sign a buyers order, and gave him the keys to the car (which has dealer plates). They told him they wanted to close the deal and hes supposed to return tomorrow to finalize paperwork. Essentially he's in possession of a car he doesn't have title to. What the heck is going on here, are they trying to trap him into financing through them or something? He has a $500 deposit down but is going to use his own bank for the loan.
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 00:23
|
|
|
It would depend on the contract, but this may "just" be a scheme to get him to bite on a worse deal: Now the car is his, he's driven it home, shown it to all his friends, does he really want to explain to them all how he had to give back the car over an extra $20/mo?
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 00:40
|
|
|
nm posted:It would depend on the contract, but this may "just" be a scheme to get him to bite on a worse deal: Hell yeah I would explain that to my friends, and I'd let the whole internet know about how lovely and bait-and-switch that dealership is, too.
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 00:48
|
|
|
mastershakeman posted:A friend of mine just bought a 17 Chevy volt. Specifically, the dealership told him he could only buy it tomorrow due to not having the plates otherwise, had him sign a buyers order, and gave him the keys to the car (which has dealer plates). Due to not having plates? The temp plates they print out of a regular rear end printer and shove in a plastic sleeve? Oy vey. Also he bought a Volt? Oh dear. Can he be talked sense to? This is shady as hell and buying a colt isn't a great decision in the first place. Lease those depreciation boat anchors if anything.
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 01:04
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Oh and which car? How about a 2007ish Honda Civic LX automatic? EX has more bells and whistles which is just more things to go wrong. They're great little cars and are cheap to fix. are the newer MYs of Civics as good? 2007 is a nine-year-old car, I'm worried about what may be needed in the near future in terms of maintenance and parts wearing out. edit: I found this, which is hella cute, but I don't know anything about how good Mitsubishi is supposed to be. https://albuquerque.craigslist.org/cto/5914192687.html and I rented an Altima ten years ago and liked the CVT in that, I thought it made it fun to drive, but I don't have a huge preference either way. I'm fine with an automatic, I just wanted something (a little bit) cool. 
cat_herder fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Dec 13, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 01:25
|
|
|
Dear god no on that Mitsubishi. It's a poo poo car from a poo poo company that will probably be gone from the US in the next five years. The key with a used car is maintenance. 2007 may be 9/10 years old, but if it's been maintained properly in that time, it still has a lot more life in it. You need to be a bit realistic here. No car you can afford today will go another decade without at least one major repair in that time. You'd have a hard time guaranteeing a new car to go that long. It's still much cheaper to pay for a good used car plus repairs, than it is to pay for a new car.
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 01:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 21, 2024 10:13 |
|
|
Phone posted:<Snip> Thanks, good info. I'll def post after I drive it, gonna be a week or 2 though. Nothing in my city so I got CarMax (I know) to transfer one I'm interested in for free. I got a bit less than a month before my turn in appointment on my TDI though, so plenty of time to test things out and all.
|
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2016 02:22
|
|