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I've been looking to get a light truck to beat around in, for random crap I can't fit into my Jetta, and also be able to carry around my bike and future kayak. 1988 Toyota N40 4x4 Pickup, with the Fuel Injected R22-E for $1500. 228k miles. Tell my why I should not get this truck.   Looks like it took a whack to the passenger side which knocked the window out of the rail, but you know.. 20 year old truck and all.  I suppose I should update with my requirements: Be a small truck. Be around $2k. Running and can pass inspection with just minor work. A/C a bonus. Shifty Pony fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Mar 5, 2013 |
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Mar 5, 2013 02:45
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 02:36 |
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Hotbod Handsomeface posted:That truck looks really beat. If you're in the US or Canada(I don't know how it was offered or what it was like in other countries) you should also check out the ford ranger/mazda bxxxx. They are great trucks. I drive a 95 4x4 with the 4.0 every day and it is a great and pretty capable thing. I bought it over the comparable toyotas because it didn't have the price premium that toyota trucks often had and I was able to fit more comfortably inside. In some cases you can almost get 2 rangers for the price of the toyota. The 4.0 makes less hp but seems to make up for it in terms of a great torque curve. Good point. I've found a '95 Ranger XLT 4-cyl manual with a bit of rear panel damage (cosmetic only, can be beaten out) for $2200. As it is just going to be a toodle-about vehicle and I live in a drat flat area the 4-cylinder shouldn't be a problem. My father is now interested in the Toyota as a parts truck for his '87.
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Mar 5, 2013 16:50
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This is going to sound absurd but... lately I've been angsting over my soon to be ownership of two cars. I own (no loan) a '10 Jetta TDi. I have bought my father's '01 F250 diesel for $8k as the last truck I will ever buy or need to buy. The truck is primarily for running heavy lifting tasks which will come along with having a house and setting up/maintaining a garden. Sometimes a truck is just drat handy to have, you know? The Jetta gets wonderful fuel economy and is very nice on the inside and is the first car I ever bought new. Because I work from home it gets driven mainly as a runabout around town or when I want to go to some random rural town's celebration of oatmeal (yes that is a real thing) or the like. Here's another wrinkle: I can't sell the truck because that was part of the family pricing deal. I keep entertaining the idea of selling the Jetta and getting some generic used compact car as a replacement while pocketing $10k and cutting down the $400 biannual comprehensive insurance cost. But then again.. I really like how nice the Jetta is. Relying only on the truck would be a bit annoying because whoa is it a pain in the rear end to park. Am I rediculous for having two vehicles as a single late 20's person?
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May 14, 2013 03:17
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I'm batting this around because my current car situation doesn't fit my life at all. Proposed Budget: Trade 2010 VW Jetta TDI (43k miles) + 2001 F250 4x4 Diesel (234k miles, new transmission + tires, gooseneck hitch + brake controller) New or Used: New Body Style: Sedan or Hatchback How will you be using the car?: I work from home and 99% would be short errand trips in stop and go traffic which is exactly not what the truck and manual transmission turbodiesel Jetta are good at. I was thinking a hybrid or or even a plug-in hybrid would be ideal, but a standard gas engine would be the better choice because I'm probably never going to burn enough fuel to make up the difference (I seriously drive ~5k per year with rare long-distance trips). I would prefer something that I could shove my bike into without trouble and with good visibility, so i was thinking perhaps a well equipped manual transmission Focus hatchback (I've driven the Focus SE hatch and besides for the absurdity of SYNC found it nice). I'm thinking I could dump any leftover cash (would that be realistic?) into an account and call that my "if I need a truck I can rent one" fund. But then the ecoboost engine might have the same "short trips are godawful for it" situation too. Alternate option: keep VW, sell truck, put money in maintenance fund to deal with the higher wear on the turbodiesel from constant short trip driving and cover occasional rental costs. Shifty Pony fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Apr 20, 2014 |
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Apr 20, 2014 21:10
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I'm selling my car over Christmas to a family member. Is now-ish too early to start looking around at the used market for the replacement (a 2010+ Honda Fit)? I have the cash. I don't want to get stuck in a buy immediately (without inspection for example) or have no transportation bind and insurance would only be $200 extra at most.
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Oct 20, 2014 03:25
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nm posted:Nope, start shopping now. I've been eyeing this one for a while : http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/4667981702.html Cons would be the hail damage but I got him to send me a photo and it is just small intentions that interrupt the reflection on the roof and don't penetrate the clear coat. Also while the "warranty" was bought from the dealer it is a 3rd party one. Transferable but I will have to see exactly what is covered. Considering that it has been on the market for a month I imagine I'll be able to haggle down the price if the test drive and mechanic inspection were to go ok.
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Oct 20, 2014 18:06
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No way was his asking price something that I would pay at all. I'm betting he got scammed on the warranty (most likely, when has a dealer extended warranty not been overpriced?) and thinks it adds a ton to the car's value. I keep waffling on going new. The silly prices people are asking (but clearly not getting) for their used vehicles makes something like the lx or even an ex manual seem a good idea. USAA is quoting $16200 and $18100 respectively for their car buying service. edit: I should mention: I have the cash to pay for either used or new flat out but have the credit (~760) to qualify for the best rates if that would be more financially prudent (at 0.9% is that the case though?). I don't drive much (~5-6k per year) due to telecommuting but am not willing to go car free and would like to start doing more long distance trips. I'm looking at Fits because they are simple, reliable, decent on fuel, maneuverable in the the stupid-small parking spaces + lanes around Austin, and will fit a pair of bikes upright in the back with the seats folded down. Shifty Pony fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Oct 20, 2014 |
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Oct 20, 2014 19:04
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Buy the car new if your credit is that good. Seriously. The Fit really doesn't depreciate that much, as you can see from your used car search. Plus, that way, you can get it how you want it, new vehicle warranty, peace of mind etc. Eh it is mostly parking lots that are the issue. My Jetta TDI works great on the highways until you have some idiot in a dualy next to you. I lived in Alexandria VA for a while and I agree with you that compared to there things are a cakewalk here. Somewhat Heroic posted:Assuming the OP can see with his eyes he's making the better choice in nearly all aspects of having a car. There is no 2014 unfortunately. 2014 was skipped in favor of the 2015 full redesign and the 2015 was delayed for a bit so very few dealers have any 2013 models hanging around. In those cases you are also getting a "2013" model and all the depreciation involved with that number because people don't care if you tell them "but I bought it in later 2014!"
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Oct 20, 2014 21:16
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So the consensus is to to say screw the used market and just buy used given how high the prices of the used Honda Fits are? If so should I just pay cash or should I finance some of it if I can pull a good (~0.9%) rate? Also any opinions one way or another regarding getting the manual transmission? I've driven manual most of my life and it doesn't bother me one bit even in the city. On the other hand I've driven the new Fit with the CVT and it doesn't bother me either. In normal driving the rubber banding almost feels like a touch of turbo lag to me.
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Oct 21, 2014 00:13
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TrinityOfDeath posted:Drive the manual before you buy it. The Fit didn't change the final gear ratio, so 65-70 on the highway is at or above 3k rpms. Drive it, and see if you can live with the noise. Swung by a dealer at lunch... what the gently caress was Honda thinking with that top gear? It was annoyingly buzzy even at 65 and I would not be a fan at all of riding for hours at 75 with that drone. Such a shame because the rest of the gearbox is quite nice and fun to drive. Looking on various forums dealers are taking a "take it or leave it" approach to pricing due to the car moving very quickly and the out the door price for an EX auto would be about $19.7k including everything. Still makes sense to go new I suppose because a 3-4 year old used one apparently is $13k and would I would still need to pay tax, tag, title etc.
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Oct 21, 2014 18:40
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I've driven the Focus hatch and the recent Civic but cargo space is about tops on my "must have" list. I bike a ton and the ability to jam two road bikes into the back of with minimal fuss (or one without even taking off the wheel) is huge. Having to drop the seats and thread my bike through the trunk of my MkV Jetta without damaging anything is a real chore because they didn't make it easy to do.
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Oct 21, 2014 23:17
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Listerine posted:Ok, all things that I don't care about. Well, I'll go ahead and give them a test drive, but looking through that list, I'm definitely going to follow up on some of those others- the Honda Fit looks pretty and is still in my price range. Thanks again for the help. Just a heads up from someone who just reserved one after digging deep into just about every single "what did you pay?" thread on the internet: 2015 Honda Fits are basically going for MSRP with very little room (a few hundred bucks at most) for negotiation. They didn't make a 2014 model promising the redesign which held over demand a bit, the 2015 was delayed for a few months, and they are having trouble shipping the things to most of the country because they go via rail through Texas and Texas railways are clogged with oil shipments. Supply might be a bit better in CA but it looks like people are reporting that an EX automatic will still be ~$20.5k and an LX auto will be ~$18k.
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Nov 19, 2014 17:02
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I bet they get hundred of emails from people not actually interested in buying. Go by the dealer but be "in a rush" so just chat real quick and get a business card from a salesperson. They take you much more seriously once you've established a face to face connection like that. Also Ford's website should have a "build this car" option with a "get a quote" button at the end, they usually follow up on those.
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Nov 23, 2014 15:50
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Smashurbanipal posted:Is there anything particularly scary about the TDI? I know it's not AWD but maybe with a good set of snows it would work. I really like the idea of the TDI for the MPG. What should I be looking out for? The main thing to look out for is maintenance history and particularly oil changes. The engine requires high quality oil meeting a certain VW spec and while they aren't hard to find they are slightly different from what goes in most cars. To make it short I'd never buy a TDI that had Jiffy Lube or the like in its oil change history. The TDI tends to attract road warriors so high miles are pretty common but if the car was well maintained are not cause for concern at all. The automatic transmission is expensive to maintain because it needs special snowflake DSG transmission fluid every 40k and it is a dual clutch transmission which some people don't like the feel of. Get a manual if you can because it is a blast with the torque from the diesel. Oh and remember in the cold to wait until the glow plug light turns off before starting.
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Dec 11, 2014 19:11
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Watch out because many incentives are an either-or setup where you can get crazy low interest or a cash incentive but not both. Also be sure to watch the paperwork closely and not fall into the trap of "oh this extended warranty is just $13 more per month" But if that isn't the case for you and you qualify for a super low rate I would say finance a chunk of it. Something like 1/2 to 1/3 so you never need to worry about being upside down.
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Dec 12, 2014 15:55
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The dealer isn't making the loan, the manufacturer most likely is and they kickback a good chunk to the dealer so that's where the money is coming from. Car manufacturers these days are basically finance companies that happen to make cars on the side to give their customers a convenient item to finance.
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Dec 12, 2014 19:20
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RommelMcDonald posted:Can you explain? I don't read this forum regularly. The major issue with the 2013 200 is that it is basically a rebadged Sebring. While there isn't anything glaringly awful about it there also isn't anything that it does that other cars don't do better, except perhaps price. Fuel economy isn't all that great even with the 4-cylinder (which is apparently lackluster in the performance department) and Chrysler tends to be dead last in reliability among major manufacturers. They also are used as rental fleet vehicles so depreciation is going to be very high.
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Jan 7, 2015 21:20
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IOwnCalculus posted:The Fit has been here for a few years now and for pretty much all of those years, $currentyear-1 used Fits sell for very near the same price as $currentyear new Fits. Are they actually selling our is it a case of everyone pricing them at what they see other people pricing them at on Craigslist? Some people are allergic to buying new for whatever reason. It has been drilled into their heads that it is the dumbest financial thing you can possibly do.
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Jan 15, 2015 22:32
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Big Bad Voodoo Lou posted:I have a 2003 PT Cruiser with 69,500 miles that I got from my in-laws in 2009. My wife doesn't drive at all, so it's our only car. It was essentially a free car for me, but over the last two years, it has become less and less reliable. I've spent thousands on repairs, including TWO alternators, multiple oil leaks, and more. Last week, I spent over $1,300 on it (including the second replacement alternator) after getting stranded again -- either the third or fourth time in the last year. Even if you are paying cash you may still want to check to see if you qualify for a loan at stupid low interest rates. Test drive both but in the end you'll be driving the car so get one you want. Be sure to bring along both the walker and the wheelchair to check and see how easy they would be to store. For example the seats in the rear of the fit flip up so you might be able to stash the walker or wheelchair upright in the seat right behind your wife, but it may end up being a pain so be sure to check. The sales people should be all for this when you ask to check: they were actually a touch excited when I brought along my bike to shove in the back to check the Fit because (he said) he would be able to tell anyone asking in the future that he's seen it and yes it would work. I would say that the Fit will be more economy car feeling then the more expensive Escape but when you are coming from an early 2000s PT Cruiser you really can only go up. My only complaints about my Fit is that it has a relatively small fuel tank and the Bluetooth will automatically start playing when you get in if it was playing when you got out. Just a warning: You won't get much for the PT Cruiser.
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Jan 27, 2015 17:11
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Big Bad Voodoo Lou posted:I figure I won't get much, especially with the CD changer long-since broken. I'll be thrilled if they offer me $3,000, and I know that's optimistic. But it's a 2003 with 70,000 miles, which ought to count for something. Unfortunately 70k miles and 2003 model would count for something if it were not a PT Cruiser. The model just developed a really bad reputation as lovely underpowered unreliable cars and all of them are priced accordingly now. If you drive them a bunch they fall apart. If you don't drive them much they also fall apart. They also became "that car you inherited from your grandparents" so younger drivers will actively avoid them. The Fit is a 2015 and I have only had it for a month but rather like it. Very comfortable, easy to drive and park around the city, and does fine on the highway and when windy. The engine has to rev high to make power but that's just the nature of a Honda 4-cylinder. The only quality annoyances so far was a slight creak from the dash on cold days and rough roads but pushing around the edges of the trim to reseat it seems to have fixed it I got the EX model but didn't get the leather. The backup camera and passenger side blind spot cameras are wonderful and I don't think I would get a car without the or at least a blind spot warning system. The infotainment system is fine although I'm not a huge fan of touchscreens and Hondalink is useless. You can just plug your iPod directly in using usb (either near the cup holders or in the center console) and get access to your playlists but that takes the place of a line-in jack (bring it and a usb cable with you if you test drive). No adjustability to the intermittent wipers could be a problem if you live in a place it drizzles or fogs a bunch. If you are taller it might be an issue as the steering wheel doesn't angle up all that much and that could start to obscure indicators on the instrument panel.
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Jan 29, 2015 16:50
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 02:36 |
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19 o'clock posted:850 was the theoretical max I thought. According to the notice stuff I got after applying for a car loan Equifax does a range of 250-900, Experian from 250-877, and TransUnion from 253 to 893. Very few places use a pure FICO score anymore and instead they use some customized scoring system specific to the type of loan being sought (auto, house, etc). That's probably the reason for the strange ranges. What the hell would you have to do to get a 250 score?
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Jan 29, 2015 21:41
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