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Haha so the strut tower rusted out, and so they braced it with a log against the window, then the inevitable happened. Guy gives no fucks, apparently.
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Sep 30, 2013 05:59
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Gorilla Salad posted:Someone actually went and named their company Thrush. It's a bird you hack.
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Sep 30, 2013 06:20
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Friar Zucchini posted:Please enlighten an ignorant plebe, what am I looking at? Did your catalytic converter just explode? Muffler exploded. Or to be more precise, the engine backfired through the exhaust bad enough that the weakest link (the muffler) said  A backire that big happens sometimes if you flood the poo poo out of an engine and get it started before all the gas has evaporated. Makes one hell of a bang. 
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Sep 30, 2013 06:29
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 Technically it's an afterfire.
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Sep 30, 2013 06:46
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I'm surprised a relatively modern Subaru got that bad after less than a decade. Then again, I bought a 10 year old XT6 in Minnesota way back when and the bottom half of it looked like it was made of tissue paper.
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Sep 30, 2013 08:55
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Geirskogul posted:
It's not pedantic to point this out; a backfire is a similar scenario through the intake/intake valves. The two aren't even related beyond the fact that they involve an unintended explosion inside an engine.
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Sep 30, 2013 09:05
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Sudo Echo posted:No words. It's like africa, but in the first world!
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Sep 30, 2013 09:19
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The King of Swag posted:It's not pedantic to point this out; a backfire is a similar scenario through the intake/intake valves. The two aren't even related beyond the fact that they involve an unintended explosion inside an engine. I learned the difference between the two while attempting to modify my first car, an Olds Delta 88 with the plastic intake 3800. Shattered 80's plastic everywhere. Kind of like this (not my picture):  Put on a pre-series-1/LN3 cast aluminum intake after that.
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Sep 30, 2013 10:40
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Sudo Echo posted:No words. For the record, he logged over 200 miles on that repair.
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Sep 30, 2013 11:45
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 The King of Swag posted:It's not pedantic to point this out; a backfire is a similar scenario through the intake/intake valves. The two aren't even related beyond the fact that they involve an unintended explosion inside an engine. Is it pedantic to point out that in either case, the whole problem is that the explosion is not inside the engine? 
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Sep 30, 2013 12:40
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Splizwarf posted:
I always thought that the blast occurred inside the cylinders and that it was the (unplanned and not properly timed) rapid expansion of gas into the intake/exhaust that cause them to pop/explode, which is why there's also the very real danger of shredding your valves in the process. But actually looking it up, you do appear to be right.
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Sep 30, 2013 12:50
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Ive got a workmate that exploded the intake on his ford exploder. I keep meaning to look at it to work out whats involved in fixing it for him
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Sep 30, 2013 13:07
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Ferremit posted:Ive got a workmate that exploded the intake on his ford exploder. I keep meaning to look at it to work out whats involved in fixing it for him Ha! Been lucky with the Fairlane. Mixer ring LPG systems love to pop things apart good and proper. Even an ignition miss can trigger one off. Amazingly all it's ever done is usually just pop the air cleaner housing apart. Sometimes it punches the filter down. It's popped off a few miscellaneous LPG bits a couple of times but that was always fixed with a few minutes and a screwdriver. Some people with LPG systems take to their air cleaner housing with a holesaw and shove a bathplug in. I'm surprised OEs don't have a fusible link of sorts like that built in.
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Sep 30, 2013 13:16
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some texas redneck posted:Muffler exploded. Or to be more precise, the engine backfired through the exhaust bad enough that the weakest link (the muffler) said Literally exactly this. That's a pretty accurate rendition of my face when it happened, too.
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Sep 30, 2013 21:48
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It's... beautiful. I'm willing to admit that pop-riviting my floor pan in place was hack-job repair, but this, it just... should have sent a poet. The red ratchet strap that was going across the interior, was it pulling the log away form the window, or what? How did you get a look at this vehicle, are you a scrapyard operator? Was it drove in like this, or towed? So many questions, so little time.
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Sep 30, 2013 23:27
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Chrisgt is the redneck magician who built that. Basically it is someone's 800 dollar "new paint, bad motor" future rally car. They threw a motor in it and took it out for some dirt driving, the strut tower tore the gently caress off. Chrisgt chopped a tree up with his chainsaw, strapped everything in the right place, and they limped it two hundred miles home. The car's done, AFAIK he is gonna part it out and find one that won't break in half. He'll probably check the strut towers for rust this time, too. I believe the full story is in Slow is Fast's thread, but basically the big strap keeps the log from sliding inwards, the small one keeps it from popping out the window. kastein fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Sep 30, 2013 |
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Sep 30, 2013 23:34
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There are $800 Subarus all over California/Southwest. Why do people even bother with the rustbuckets? A $89 flight and the gas back is all it takes.
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Sep 30, 2013 23:41
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Because some people don't have 3-4 days to spare on a cross country trip plus not wanting to fly to the other end of the country only to find out the car is poo poo or the seller has sold it to someone else in the meantime. Gas money to drive the thing home makes that into a $1500 car in a hurry, too, and from what I understand, it looked fine and no one would have guessed it would have that kind of rust in that random a spot.
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Sep 30, 2013 23:55
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The thing is, the cars that DJ Commie is talking about are actually rust free. Not "rust free" rust belt cars that have holes no bigger than 1/2in and the bubbling around the window seals hasn't quite perforated yet, the ones here have no rust. You can unscrew things on the suspension of a 20 year old Honda or Subaru with no more than a squirt of PB or something. You can also find similar cars in the Southeast. I grew up in Northeast PA, as well as started my wrenching career there so I have dealt with a lot of cars and a lot of rust. I wouldn't buy a car from up there ever, no matter what. I was seriously amazed the first time I went to a junkyard in NC. The poo poo sitting in the yard was nicer than 90% of the cars I drove around as a kid. No holes, solid floors, solid shock towers. To see that on 10 and 20 year old cars was amazing to me. The ones you find in the Southwest are just as nice. Maybe a little less surface rust, generally much more sunbeat interiors. Still, if I was going to spend the money building and caging a rally car I would spend the extra $500 on a fly and ride just to avoid having to deal with a half dissolved body and an undercarriage and suspension that's just fused rust.
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Oct 1, 2013 04:35
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I completely stripped a 1993 Lincoln Mark VIII in 2012 with no PB blaster or broken bolts. It was an all Florida car. 0 rust anywhere. Exhaust unbolted no problems.
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Oct 1, 2013 05:12
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Slavvy posted:It's like africa, but in the first world!
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Oct 1, 2013 05:34
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Geirskogul posted:
Gorilla Salad posted:Someone actually went and named their company Thrush. 
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Oct 1, 2013 11:11
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Bugdrvr posted:The thing is, the cars that DJ Commie is talking about are actually rust free. Not "rust free" rust belt cars that have holes no bigger than 1/2in and the bubbling around the window seals hasn't quite perforated yet, the ones here have no rust. You can unscrew things on the suspension of a 20 year old Honda or Subaru with no more than a squirt of PB or something. As a Texas native who mostly owns 20+ yr old cars and never has trouble getting bolts out, i can corroborate these claims. I look at the stuff some people think is normal (as far as rust) and it makes me think it wouldnt be worth it to be a DIY car enthusiast to have to deal with that poo poo. Luckily noone really HAS to since there are literally millions of rust free old cars just waiting to be bought down here. I don't sympathize with people who are willing to buy rusty poo poo for more than scrap value and then complain about the rust or spend extra time and money fixing something that would have been easy or not even broken on a southern car. In the long run there's no way you DONT come out ahead buying a rust free car and driving or shipping it back if you're going to be driving old cars. There are plenty of excuses you can list about being uncomfortable with long-distance purchases and all that, which is fine, they can have their rusty shitheaps and cry about it while i enjoy the greener grass and rust-free cars. I helped a guy from Michigan located FIVE rare and mostly rust-free vehicles down here and helped him buy them and take them back. I even bought them up front for him and helped him get everything situated to tow back north. There are tons of us out here on the internet willing to do things that seem crazy to help a fellow car enthusiast even if we've never met them. The people that make up excuses before they even bother to ask/try can just wallow in their rust.
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Oct 1, 2013 15:51
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Screw Yankees. That's why I can't get a good car down here.
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Oct 1, 2013 15:59
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My Blazer is 22 years old with nearly 300k miles. I haven't even had to put PB blaster on any bolts yet. Only thing I've had issues with was getting the top nuts off when I did my front shocks, but that was due to not having anything to hold the shaft in place with. Ended up snipping through the washers, the nuts were the perfect size to drop through the holes in the frame while still attached. E: Here have some mechanical failures that've been building up in my phone: Slightly less rust-free than what I'm used to. This lady couldn't afford repairs (almost $3 grand on a lovely ~01 Buick), car had to be towed away. It was an old lady who'd just bought it from a buy-here-pay-here.   I call this one gently caress GM. Can you find the battery?  "Can you balance my wheels for me?"   justintime.jpg  And horrible engineering failures, aka gently caress YOU VOLVO. That's the oil filter housing, the opening is a lot narrower than it looks. 
Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Oct 1, 2013 |
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Oct 1, 2013 16:58
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Can't remember if I posted it yet, but here's what I found doing my fiancee's 200k 98 Explorer tune up and brakes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MzLoeIfc5-U
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Oct 1, 2013 18:19
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When I got my motorcycle earlier this year, this was what the front tire looked like. Gigantic crack in the sidewall, as if to underscore the nearby 2003 DOT date. The dude was riding the twisties with a tire like that.  I just remembered I took a picture of that 
M42 fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Oct 1, 2013 |
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Oct 1, 2013 20:08
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General_Failure posted:Ha! Supercharged drag cars have blow-out plates for that reason. A friend started his Porsche part business by fabricating a similar airbox for early CIS 911's . Stainless body with a spring - loaded trapdoor to vent back fires;too bad bedsheets can't be made the same way.
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Oct 2, 2013 04:14
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Fucknag posted:I call this one gently caress GM. Can you find the battery? It's under the windshield washer fluid reservoir, isn't it? What car?
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Oct 2, 2013 04:32
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It's directly underneath the fuse box, you can see a corner poking out bottom of the frame. It's a chevy venture/pontiac montana, although tbh most cars and crossovers with the 3.4 have it in a similarly stupid location. The hold-down is a stamped piece of metal that clamps on the base, and with the battery in there's maybe 1 inch of space to get your hand down to line the bolt hole up. Also there's a rat's nest of wiring harness connecting to the fuse box, and the two battery cables are connected to it in such a way that you can't really get any of it out of the way, so you have to lift the battery up through it while trying not to yank any wires loose. Plus that big cross brace has to be unbolted. AND it's a side-post battery. Compared with most imports, where it's 2 hook bolts and 2 nuts for the terminals, it's a big pain in the rear end.
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Oct 2, 2013 05:05
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Designed in a loving computer. Which GM engine/platform combination is it where you have to remove a motor mount to change the serpentine belt? 
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Oct 2, 2013 05:07
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Same engine actually, 3.4 in the Impala!
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Oct 2, 2013 05:21
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No photo, but my clutch slave cylinder died in my 96 F150 a few days ago and of course the cylinder is in the bell housing. God drat it Ford. Also driving home stuck in 2nd gear is fun. e: It has less than 30k miles on it (cylinder) and apparently the last shop the replaced it missed some 'nuts, pins, a bolt or two, what the gently caress shop did you take this to, never do that again' - my mechanic on the phone.
Plinkey fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Oct 2, 2013 |
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Oct 2, 2013 05:29
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2012 Audi S4 3.0 Supercharged. Had a misfire on cylinder 2 that took a little while to figure out. 
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Oct 2, 2013 13:44
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Previa_fun posted:Designed in a loving computer. Which GM engine/platform combination is it where you have to remove a motor mount to change the serpentine belt? The kappa platform roadsters, Solstice and Sky, require you to remove a wheel and fender liner to get the battery out.
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Oct 2, 2013 15:50
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 Teaser for later, day 3 at the new shop and I'm already balls deep.
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Oct 3, 2013 00:08
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:
C'mon. Don't leave us hanging. Were you trying to drain coolant or oil there? Or perhaps transmission fluid?
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Oct 3, 2013 00:13
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General_Failure posted:C'mon. Don't leave us hanging. Were you trying to drain coolant or oil there? Or perhaps transmission fluid? Oil pan 
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Oct 3, 2013 00:21
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:Oil pan Are you sure you didn't accidentally drain the Mountain Dew and cream reservoirs instead?
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Oct 3, 2013 00:28
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:
Let me guess. "Weird sound"?
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Oct 3, 2013 01:44
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