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I just bought a 2005 GTI with the 1.8t engine and would like to get a vagcom device, are there any preferred models? I'd want a standalone device rather than one that plugs into a computer, but if the price difference is great enough I'd consider either.
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Mar 21, 2014 05:03
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fknlo posted:Wish my TDI did that. My best tank is 42.5 mpg. I'm guessing he's using Imperial gallons, which makes that about 36 mpg US.
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May 26, 2014 23:28
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tijag posted:
Is the sunroof only available with leather seats now?
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Jul 2, 2014 03:19
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I'm trying to replace the driver's side CV axle on my MKIV GTI and I'm stuck at removing the triple square bolts on the transmission side. It seems unless the angle is dead on the bit jumps out, but I can't really get to it without multiple extensions which makes everything a bit sloppy. I tried an impact wrench but its 19.2V cordless and just makes noise on them. Any tips?
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Nov 2, 2014 22:48
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No. 6 posted:Why are you replacing the whole axel anyway? CV joints went bad (both boots torn) Got the axle out and putting the new one in now. One thing nobody seemed to mention is how to get the ball joint back into the lower control arm (it's lower due to suspension expanding). Disconnect sway bar, get everything back together then use floor jack to lift it up and reconnect sway bar? Edit: ended up doing it that way and it worked fine. No more clicking when I accelerate now! DrChu fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Nov 3, 2014 |
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Nov 3, 2014 19:21
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What would an average price to pay a shop to change the timing chain tensioner on a 2010 GTI?
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Apr 3, 2015 15:10
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I'm pretty sure there's independent settings for the resume volume and speed compensated volume. It reads like its supposed to prevent the volume from being louder than that when you start, however on my car it seems to always crank the volume to that max setting even if its lower.
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May 13, 2015 00:21
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Having an issue with my 2010 GTI. On cold starts I'm getting a high pitched squeak/shrieking sound for about the first 30 seconds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKjB2wLjUEY This doesn't really happen on warm starts, however for I will hear a short squeal similar to above as I pass through 1200-1500 RPMs or so. After the sound stops in either scenario it won't occur for the rest of the drive and seems to have no impact on performance.
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May 17, 2015 23:25
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DrChu posted:Having an issue with my 2010 GTI. On cold starts I'm getting a high pitched squeak/shrieking sound for about the first 30 seconds: Still trying to figure this out. Its not the serpentine belt or the diaphragm part of the PCV valve. I also posted this on the Vortex and one of the suggestions was the secondary air system (CBFA engine). If i disconnect the power to the solenoid to check will that cause any other damage? I guess I'm worried about the pump going but then the solenoid doing nothing.
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May 27, 2015 01:56
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Mooseykins posted:Do you guys still have secondary air pumps on those? That screeching/farting noise sounds exactly like dying ones do, you can pull the plug and start it to check, not sure if it will trigger the light. The CBFA engine does. I guess the part near where the noise is is the combi valve/injection valve (http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_VI--2.0T/ES281566/), not sure where I read solenoid at. I don't mind replacing it if its the actual bad part, though I hope I could find something cheaper than that link.
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May 27, 2015 02:22
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Almost got this stupid valve off today, however I just could not get to one bolt Its hidden behind that black coolant line underneath it. I was able to feel where the bolt was, but the line wasn't flexing enough to allow me to get a good angle with my ratchet. Hoping I don't have to drain the coolant and remove the line, but it'll probably be a few weeks until there's another decent day to attempt it again. On the plus side, I can now remove the whole battery box and air box assembly in about five minutes, so the next time should go quicker.
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Jun 17, 2015 21:57
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2010 GTI Went to start car this afternoon and the instrument cluster and lights went crazy and kept flickering on and off. Is that how these cars react to a low battery? I tried a couple more times and it may have tried to crank a little on one of the attempts. If I just turn car to on without cranking, all the electronics seem to work normally, except for an "ESP Error" message that shows up on MFD after a couple seconds.
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Nov 26, 2015 00:08
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BlackMK4 posted:Yes Got a jump and bought a new battery today. Everything seems back to normal now, however I'm getting two faults in the Engine module when running an Auto Scan in VCDS that I didn't before (no CEL though): 2 Faults Found: 001674 - ECM Power Relay Load Circuit P068A - 000 - Opens Too Early - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100000 Fault Priority: 0 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 255 Time Indication: 0 Date: 2047.15.31 Time: 31:63:63 Freeze Frame: RPM: 0 /min Load: 0.0 % Speed: 0.0 km/h Temperature: 42.0∞C Temperature: 34.0∞C Absolute Pres.: 1030.0 mbar Voltage: 10.795 V 050217 - Implausible Data Received from Steering Column Control Module U0429 - 000 - - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00100000 Fault Priority: 0 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 255 Mileage: 0 km Time Indication: 0 Freeze Frame: RPM: 0 /min Load: 0.0 % Speed: 0.0 km/h Temperature: 15.0∞C Temperature: 15.0∞C Absolute Pres.: 1030.0 mbar Voltage: 11.049 V Readiness: 0000 0000 Hoping they clear over a few more drive cycles.
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Nov 28, 2015 04:31
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:Were you running alot of accesories after you scanned? That voltage is crazy low. I don't even charge my phone in the car so idk. Maybe it was low from sitting on shelf at store and I have driven enough to top it off? Either way I had no trouble starting today, I'll give it a week of commuting and run another scan this weekend.
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Nov 30, 2015 22:39
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Mat_Drinks posted:If you've got the stock PZeros still you might want to replace them with a more pothole resistant tire. I had one bubble up with 2k from a moderate pothole and google searching returned a ton of results of people having similar issues. In the year I've had my 2010 with 18" Detroits I've lost two PZeros to potholes that caused sidewall bubbles. This weekend I dropped down to 17" Goals with BFGoodrich g-Force Comp-2 A/S tires. Hoping they hold up better, the 10 pounds less per wheel should make it drive a little better as well.  
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Apr 11, 2016 04:06
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Uthor posted:Any tips for doing the rear brakes on a MKV GTI? I got stuck removing the carrier bolts. I'm debating returning the parts and just paying someone to do it as it seems like a huge PITA. Are you using a triple square bit?
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Jun 12, 2016 02:47
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I messed up while changing the oil on my MKVI GTI and forget to bring the correct filter wrench with me, and I didn't notice until after I drained the oil. As I was not at home I had to put the new oil in without changing the filter. I've read in some tutorials for changing other things (like the intake manifold) where they say to remove the filter for clearance, and that draining isn't needed since the filter is on top of the engine and upside down. Will I be safe just taking the filter off and swapping in the new one, or will this be a disaster?
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Jul 17, 2016 02:32
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Using the correct wrench made that the easiest part of the job, only a couple drops fell out of the filter. I also cleaned out the HVAC system with Klima Cleaner yesterday and my AC no longer smells like death when I use it, just in time for another 9 days of 90+ temps in a row.
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Jul 17, 2016 21:04
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My MKVI GTI has been sounding a little loud at times recently, finally this morning it deciding to go all the way and separate the muffler from the rest of the exhaust. I got underneath the car and found that luckily it is just the sleeve that connects the two halves After 140K miles the two hose clamps that secure it to each side have dissolved. Assuming I can get the remnants off, can I replace those with any that are about the same size, or is there some reason I should get replacement ones from VW? edit: found replacement sleeve on Amazon for $16, ordered that DrChu fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Nov 7, 2016 |
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Nov 6, 2016 20:36
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GutBomb posted:
If you have an Android phone you should be able to play music from it as a mass storage device. If you have an IOS phone, get the Lightning MDI cable instead.
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Dec 23, 2016 02:04
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Selling the Accessport I had for my MKVI GTI- https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3515402&perpage=40&pagenumber=23#post477763536 I'm missing the bump in midrange power already 
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Oct 26, 2017 20:57
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Is there a way to check on/off status of heated seats with VCDS? The seat back on GTI never seems to get warm when I have the seats on, however sometimes it feels a little too hot with them off (at this time of year war I have seats on while going to work and off when driving home).
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Mar 27, 2018 03:33
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Having trouble with the PCV system on my 2010 GTI. I had the car in the shop about a month ago for some cooling system issues, they recommended I replace the PCV because there was excessive oil in the intake/intercooler. I had been having a slightly rough idle and would occasionally smoke while idling so I thought I'd give it a shot. The first one I got didn't have any revision markings on it, and when I installed it the car could not maintain idle, would miss and threw codes about airflow (I forget the exact code numbers). I put the previous PCV back on and the car was back to normal, returned the PCV and ordered a different one. I got that one couple days ago, it has the AH revision on it which should be most current. After I installed it it seemed fine, however after driving for a half hour the revs would start to hang on shifts and when I would come to a stop they'd jump up to about 1400 for a few seconds, then drop to 1100, then finally settle at normal. I gave it a day to see if that would change but it didn't. After driving for about an hour I got a CEL - P2187 System Too Lean at Idle (Bank 1). From what I can see this indicates a bad PCV, so either I'm just having terrible luck and should return and try again, or maybe there's something else I should be looking for? I've seen some suggestions for replacing the N80 valve, but that's an involved process if I want to do it the right way, and more than I'd want to spend on a part that's just a guess. I'll be putting the old PCV back on it the meantime since it's at least driveable with no codes with that on. The car has almost 160K miles on it, so it may be time to just move on from it and get something else.
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Dec 27, 2018 05:19
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Styles Bitchley posted:Just wondering, what other items have you replaced over the history of the car, and how many times have you had the carbon cleaned out? Still on original fuel pumps, fuel filter, injectors? I swapped in the old PCV today and the idle issue is no longer occurring and no codes yet, however I only drove it enough to get up to temperature and won't be able to take it on the highway until tomorrow. I inspected the two hoses that come off the PCV and didn't see any cracks, though I couldn't get the rear one completely out of the car with the tools I had on hand so i can't say for the certain on that one.
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Dec 28, 2018 00:54
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I had a 2010 GTI with the CBFA that I replaced the stock intake with that new revision and had no problems with reusing the fuel rail. I got mine from DAP along with this install kit (https://www.shopdap.com/intake-manifold-install-kit-for-2-0t-tsi.html) because the updated manifold had a port my original did not.
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Sep 19, 2019 01:08
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The 2.5 had 55 more horsepower than the 2.0 and was rated about 1 MPG less, I think that trade off would be well worth it.
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Oct 3, 2019 04:03
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Feb 29, 2020 03:38
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dialhforhero posted:Reading the manual says G12++ and G13 only. TL-VW 774 J is the factory coolant. No Advance Auto near you? https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...chTerm=pentosin
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Jul 19, 2020 22:48
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minivanmegafun posted:speaking of mk5 audio things, anyone got a good suggestion for a carplay-compatible headunit? mine is a base Rabbit so I don't have satellite controls, something with a real volume knob on it would be ace. Search for RCD330 or RCD330G. A lot of results seem to be a little in the knock-off territory, but they're based on a foreign market VW radio that would work in MK5s, just make sure it lists the correct FM frequency range. You should be able to find threads about in on the vortex.
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Jul 27, 2020 21:01
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Are you sure that isn’t factory? My 2010 GTI had a similar connector that eventually rusted out, I think I found a replacement for less than $20 https://parts.vw.com/p/Volkswagen__GTI/Clamp-Pipe-Muffler-Front--Rear/48126313/1K0253141N.html
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Dec 1, 2020 04:27
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latinotwink1997 posted:I’ve got a 2012 GTI that just had the low oil pressure warning go on briefly while I was taking a fast turn and then went off. Turns out my oil was super low, only 5400 miles after my last change. I used to be able to go the full 10k without issues. It’s a little over 110k miles now and no leaks I can find. Is it something worth having checked or is this typical for this kind of age/mileage and I’ll just need to keep it topped off in between changes? Could be the rear main seal going?
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Apr 9, 2021 03:23
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Ok Comboomer posted:the FiST I just bought doesn’t have a backup camera, and I’m probably not gonna pay the $1500 it would cost to replace the SYNC 2 module with SYNC 3 and gain CarPlay compatibility You should be able to upgrade for a lot less than $1500 if you find a couple used parts - https://www.reddit.com/r/FiestaST/comments/a13nqt/sync_2_to_sync_3_upgrade_google_sheets_compilation/
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Aug 4, 2021 17:08
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hellotoothpaste posted:Wow, I’m fully expecting to spend 10x that if I ever wanted the glass cockpit for the atlas provided it’s possible at all. I think you will be able to for a lot cheaper than you expect, the hardest part will be the programming and you'll need either a VCDS cable (and someone to have figured out what settings to change) or have the dealer do it. The cluster itself is less than $1400 new at most (https://parts.vw.com/p/Volkswagen_2...3G0920420B.html), a lot of dealerships have it for around $1000, plus whatever surrounding trim needs to be changed. Based on what I've read about doing the retrofit on Golfs, the most important thing is coding in the mileage, since that has to be done first before anything else, because once that's in it can't be changed later.
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Aug 4, 2021 17:52
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Do you have (or have access to) a VCDS cable? You should be able to log the wastegate duty cycle to help determine if it’s actually that part going wrong. There may be a test mode for it as well. Have you ruled out the N75 valve?
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Oct 15, 2021 01:25
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rope kid posted:They've been polished a bunch of times but it seems like maybe they're too far gone now. Maybe I could just replace the lenses. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bremmen-parts/glass-headlight-lens-set/3592ltnn12748~br/ The basic procedure is to bake the old lights for a bit to loosen the adhesive, pop the plastic lenses off, clean off any remaining adhesive and reapply, then put these new ones on.
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Dec 16, 2021 18:39
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