|
timb posted:I was looking at Conti DWS but now you've all got me wanting the PSS's. The DWS and DW are both great tires but I still wouldn't trust the dws in the snow regardless of what Continental claims. I work at an Audi dealership and recommend the DW all the time, they're quiet, grip well, and wear evenly. I don't know how much the PSS are but the Continental DW are worth the price.
|
#
¿
Sep 18, 2012 21:52
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 20:35 |
|
|
interwhat posted:I'm a newbie tech working at a VW dealership (hourly so I dont get screwed) and I hope to contribute/learn from this thread. Had a lot of fun with a cam follower job the other day on the FSI. Only one in the shop to do it successfully my first time without any catastrophic failure. Do you mean the follower off of the HPFP that rides on the cam? Did you also do the camshaft chain and adjuster?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 29, 2012 02:37
|
|
|
hedge posted:My mom just bought a new A3 2.0T a couple weeks ago. Yesterday, I saw this under the car on the right side, below the front passenger door. Yep, that's basically what it is. Audis are shipped with a cloth-ish material wrapped around the whole car which is removed during the pre-delivery inspection. These wraps are secured to the car in like 20 points with clips/hooks like that. I know this because I've had to unwrap a lot of them. Whoever unwrapped your moms car at the dealership didn't remove it and it ended up puncturing that panel somehow. I'd make them replace that panel thats some bullshit. Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 15:33 on Oct 7, 2012 |
|
#
¿
Oct 7, 2012 15:30
|
|
|
beejay posted:I have a 2007 GTI and I took it in for 30k maintenance/oil change a couple months ago. They said there were several TSBs that they would take care of as well and the whole process took about 6 hours. Anyway, the other day I went out to check the oil, because it burns oil and I have to top it off here and there. I found that my oil fill cap is a good inch below the engine cover now. It used to be flush. I had a hell of a time getting the cap off sticking my fingers into a hole of sharp plastic edges and then had to use a funnel to make sure I got the oil in there. Additionally the hole where the oil goes in looks a lot different in structure. Does anybody know why they changed this/what the benefits are? I checked everything and it's all in place and not loose, and like I said the structure of everything is different so they definitely replaced the whole deal, I'm just not sure why.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 25, 2012 21:55
|
|
|
The Wonder Weapon posted:Ok, I'll check that tomorrow or this weekend. Are the parts I picked out above good choices? You will need a 7mm hex/allen socket, prybar/beefy screwdriver to push the piston in a little to start and to remove the spring clamp, a c-clamp or large pliers to depress the pistons the rest of the way, a 21mm socket for caliper carrier, and a big hammer to knock the rotor off the hub. Here is a PDF from Audi's ElsaWeb detailing the process, its easy. https://dl.dropbox.com/u/52001/audittbrakespdf.pdf Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Dec 4, 2012 |
|
#
¿
Dec 4, 2012 23:19
|
|
|
Mr. Apollo posted:You need to get the ECU reflashed to stock when you take it in. Audi now hooks your car up to the scanner for every service, no matter how minor, and it does a checksum validation on your ECU. If it doesn't match up your car is flagged with a TD1 code which means that it's been modified. Dealers and Audi are using this as a way to deny any and all warranty claims on tuned vehicles. People have gotten warranty claims approved with a TD1 flag but it's usually and arduous process involving calls and emails to Audis head offcie asking them to put it in writing that they're denying your warranty claim due to your engine tune. The problem is that a lot of the stuff being denied is not remotly related to an engine tune. I'm a technician at an Audi dealership and we definitely don't check the coding on your ECU when you bring your car in. We do hook up the scanner for pretty much every service but it doesn't automatically check your car for a tune. We'd have to run SVM (scans every control module and compares it to what the stock coding is) or check the coding manually and we're not going to do that unless we're searching for a bigger problem. Even then, I've still not heard of anyone's warranty claim being denied for just a tune or minor bolt-ons, at least at my dealership.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 16, 2012 14:49
|
|
|
The Wonder Weapon posted:All the stores within walking distance were closed, so I tried just threading the bolt through from the other side. It went in fine, and straightened out whatever the problem was on the other end. No tap needed! Yeah you mean the little T30 for the rotor to the hub? You don't need them, the lug bolts will hold them onto the hub.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 17, 2012 04:07
|
|
|
The Wonder Weapon posted:In the first picture, the rotor on the left that's all rusted is the rear rotor. The front rotor from the car was pretty much exactly the same. The shiny rotor on the right is supposed to be this guy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028093DK/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00 and specifically says "Fitment Notes: Rear Disc Brake Rotor, 2WD, UPR SERIES PREMIUM OE REPLACEMENT - 9.2" ROTOR DIA - EACH" ALMS uses vented rear discs. You got discs for the regular TT. The part number that you want is 8N0615601B.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 17, 2012 23:50
|
|
|
Toebone posted:The rear brakes on my 09 Rabbit (115k miles) have started grinding, so I'm figuring its time to replace the pads. I'm handy with a wrench but I've never worked on brakes before, just engine stuff. Is this something I can tackle myself just by watching a couple video guides online, or am I better off having a shop do it? It's pretty simple, other than a metric wrench set, a big hammer, and maybe a T25/T30/T40 socket (I'm unsure if your model has a torx screw holding the rotor onto the hub) you just need one special tool to push the pistons back in on the rear calipers. They don't push straight in like most brakes, they rotate as they go in/out. Here's a video guide http://youtu.be/THAc_sdqEs0 Here's a forum post with pretty comprehensive pictures and explanations. http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/t/281928.aspx
|
|
#
¿
Jan 23, 2013 00:43
|
|
|
veedubfreak posted:I have a good job, a garage, tools and mechanical knowhow and I wouldn't touch that car with a 10 foot pole. Same, and I even work for Audi and have access to any special tools and documentation I would ever need.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 28, 2013 19:56
|
|
|
BlackMK4 posted:http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/3720625194.html Maybe if they would take 2000. That car is a shitboxxxx
|
|
#
¿
Apr 28, 2013 22:25
|
|
|
Bummey posted:My mother somehow lost a part on her 2010 Audi Q7's MMI knob thingy. It's the little quarter-sized, dimpled piece of thin plastic that sits atop the main knob in the picture below -- you can see where it's missing. The dealer quoted her a price of $700 to replace the entire dash unit, which is patently loving ridiculous. Here's the repair kit part number for that knob (8K0 998 068). Those break all the time, so often in fact that there is a TSB for it. TSB 2024683/1. It should be replaced for free if your mom's car is still under warranty. It takes seriously 1-2 minutes max to pop the new joystick on. I've replaced so many of these.
|
|
#
¿
May 17, 2013 23:45
|
|
|
Snowdens Secret posted:Regarding valves getting carboned up (which also slowly decreases fuel economy), if you watch the various videos online, the stuff can be rock solid and resistant to solvents. If you're gonna go to the effort of getting your valves cleaned, do the walnut blasting, it's the only thing that seems to work consistently. I'll take some pictures and share them here the next time I do a carbon cleaning at work. Last one I saw at the shop was a carbon cleaning on an 08 RS4 with about 80k miles on it. Every piece of carbon he cleaned off he put into a ball and the ball was about twice the size of a golfball by the end. The valves were just completely covered in hard carbon.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 6, 2013 01:11
|
|
|
shyduck posted:So my GTI 2.0T's fuel pump has to be replaced with 20K on it. Is this normal or am I just lucky? What year and do you mean HPFP or electric in-tank fuel pump?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 8, 2013 00:55
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:Gf's '12 GTI picked up a scraping noise after a tire rotation. It seemed like it was coming from the rear, like a bent brake dust shield. Yeah I'm willing to bet they bent a shield and its contacting a rotor slightly if it started happening right after a tire rotation. Give me a VIN number and I can check for TSBs for you as I'm a VW/Audi tech, sounds like BS though.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 11, 2013 18:41
|
|
|
Typical day at work for an Audi tech here.  Another day, another set of pistons and rings for a 2.0T Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Aug 21, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Aug 21, 2013 23:24
|
|
|
Mooseykins posted:It looks so clean! We have a brand new shop as of ~2 months ago. It's really nice. 26 bays. In ground post-less lifts. Enormous toolboxes provided by the shop. I love it. click for big 
|
|
#
¿
Aug 22, 2013 00:09
|
|
|
Mooseykins posted:Not far from the truth. Pay here (England) is so poo poo. £24k for master tech at dealers. 6 years and £35k in tools so far. Want to retrain as a welder instead. 24k GBP is 37675 USD which is more than I'm making now, but not by much. I only have about ~3000 USD or less into my tools though and have only been doing this for ~2 years.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 22, 2013 00:30
|
|
|
obi_ant posted:I seem to forget every time, but any of you GTI owners out there please remember to check your oil. At 1 quart per 1500 miles (that is quite a lot) you are definitely within range to get pistons & rings assuming your GTI is within warranty. You should hit up your VW dealer and have this process started by having a Part 1 Oil Consumption test done, you then drive for ~600 miles and return for a part 2 oil consumption where they measure the oil burned over 600 miles, if its above a certain amount they will replace the pistons & rings with updated parts that will reduce your oil consumption dramatically. We do like 2 of these a week at the shop I work at, in fact a few posts back I just posted pictures from the piston&ring job that I was doing on a 2.0T Audi A4.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 25, 2013 19:35
|
|
|
obi_ant posted:Well that doesn't sound good at all. Unfortunately my warranty expired in 2012. How much would something like that cost out of pocket? Out of pocket it would cost a crazy amount. It pays 18 hours as a warranty job, so they would probably charge at least 20 out of pocket. Audi has a slightly extended warranty for this problem though so I would contact your VW dealer and see what they have to say.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 26, 2013 01:22
|
|
|
420Chris posted:I think the spec is somewhere closer to 1qt/1000 miles, and the rings are a 50/50 shot of actually fixing the issue, oftentimes people get new rings and right off the bat the burning starts right back up. Its just a poo poo design. Consumption is also covered under powertrain warranty which goes for longer, usually 50k at least. 1qt per 1500 is considered okay per the consumption tsb and test plan, I dont think they will do anything for you. At Audi, we are required to call corporate TAC (technical assistance center) before we get authorization to do rings. They tell us to do them every time consumption is over .30QT/1000 miles. Thats ridiculous if VW's tolerance is 1qt/1000 for the exact same motor. kimbo305 posted:I PMed you the VIN. Sorry, I never check my PMS. Looking it up now for you. edit: replied to your PM Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 13:42 on Aug 26, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Aug 26, 2013 13:32
|
|
|
blk posted:What would I need to expect to spend to get it to 100k? A miracle
|
|
#
¿
Sep 4, 2013 01:50
|
|
|
420Chris posted:Basically every 1.8t or 2.8 leaks oil from the adjuster seal, the reason you don't see it is cause most of it is burning on your exhaust. It isnt something that's going to prevent the car from running, but it will not get any better on its own, either. Eventually you will notice burning smells and smoke entering the vents. This guy knows what he's talking about. I would see if they can do it for any less than $450 since they're already doing a T-Belt I can't imagine it should take 2 extra hours of labor to do the seal. I would have only charged 1 hour extra to do the seal if I was doing a T-Belt. Timing belt/water pump is a gravy job as it is, if I was that technician I would definitely do the seal for only an hour extra. Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Sep 9, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Sep 9, 2013 21:44
|
|
|
Prefect Six posted:I put my key fob through the wash. Will replacing the batteries do anything or will I need to buy a new one? Can still use the key part to unlock/lock/start the car, just remote is dead. You can try to take it apart and spray the circuit down with WD40 but it will probably need replaced, worth a shot though. I've seen it fix remotes before. Prof. Numbers posted:Audi TT won't start. I turn the key to the sound of silence. The battery's OK and the spark plugs were replaced just two months ago. Does it sound like a failed fuel pump? Sounds like an ignition switch to me. I've replaced quite a few of those.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2013 18:07
|
|
|
Prefect Six posted:Why would spraying oil on an electric circuit make it start working?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2013 23:54
|
|
|
devmd01 posted:I really shouldn't read other forums, I was researching B8 A4s, got sidetracked into 2.0T FSI engine discussion sections (wife's passat), and now I just ordered a replacement cam follower for the fuel pump because they made me paranoid at how catastrophic a failure it can be. I see about one of those fail every month at work, I posted some pictures of one in the Horrible Mechanical Failure thread here a couple months ago. That one ended up getting a new intake camshaft, HPFP, and follower. Ran great afterwards. It becomes a pretty big repair job once the camshaft gets damaged.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 4, 2013 00:09
|
|
|
devmd01 posted:Well poo poo, now I know what i'm doing this weekend instead of waiting until the next oil change! What, if any, is the torque spec on the three fuel pump mount bolts? None of the DIY guides I've seen have mentioned it so I just assume go with herr gutentight, but it never hurts to check. Gutentight is fine on those 3 torx bolts, Audi calls for 10nm though. You are supposed to replace the rubber O-ring that goes around the HPFP as well, though I never have seen one leak from not doing it. It's an easy job, the hardest part is getting the 17mm nut for the fuel line off. My opinion on the B8 A4 is that they are a nightmare, but hey, plenty of people are perfectly happy with theirs. 2009-2011 are plagued with oil consumption problems and turbos making GBS threads the bed from the wastegates becoming floppy. I suppose if you get a 2012/13 most of the issues should be ironed out. They supposedly fixed the oil consumption problem with 2012 models and I believe in 2013 they have started installing a clip from the factory that prevents the turbo wastegate issue.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 4, 2013 02:25
|
|
|
schmagekie posted:I broke the glass on my front left fog light of my 2012 Golf TDI. Are they easy to replace? Anywhere carry them for cheap? They're very easy to replace, just pop off the foglight grille and there is like 3 screws that hold the foglight in position.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 2, 2014 00:51
|
|
|
Hashtag Banterzone posted:My 2010 tdi wont start. Probably a combination of it being 4 degrees out today and the car sitting for 10 days. Feather the gas pedal while you crank it over. Seems to work on my girlfriends 2011 Golf TDI when it's being hard to start on cold days.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 7, 2014 23:52
|
|
|
Bovril Delight posted:Look up iced over intercooler on TDIClub. It is not good. Hope its a battery issue. Yeah, my girlfriend's TDI had that issue. It ended up getting a long block when enough water built up in the intercooler, that it got into the engine, hydrolocked and bent a rod.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 8, 2014 02:25
|
|
|
Hashtag Banterzone posted:Jumping it didn't work.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 8, 2014 17:51
|
|
|
Prof. Numbers posted:Sweet jesus that's terrifying. Did I read that right: VW will install a cold weather intercooler kit on request, but Audi won't do anything for the A3 TDI? The A3 TDI and the Passat TDI is not affected by this from what I have seen. At least there is no TSB for it.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 12, 2014 20:15
|
|
|
Snowdens Secret posted:'Top tier' gas doesn't have anything to do with economy, the theory is that it cuts down on carbon deposits on the valves. I think the general understanding is that it's horseshit, but if you complain about anything that sounds like coking symptoms while the car is under warranty, Audi is going to insist you use 'top tier' gas / blame your problems on not doing so for a while before digging any deeper. All we can do is recommend top tier gas or fuel additive. We can't do anything unless the car is misfiring or throws a fault due to excessive carbon buildup on the valves causing a stuck valve. Warranty won't cover us for the labor if we don't have proof of a fault. If that happens we would take off the intake manifold and clean all the valves by hand under warranty. The thing is that the car is usually out of warranty by the time it gets that bad. Unfortunately this will never change unless Audi puts out an extended warranty for carbon buildup like they have for other issues (such as the clogging of secondary air injection ports with carbon). Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Jan 28, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Jan 28, 2014 00:27
|
|
|
veedubfreak posted:Is this still a problem with the newer 2.0t? I'm probably going to be buying a new R when the MK7 comes out. The carbon problem isn't that bad on the 2.0t. I mean they do get a lot of carbon but it doesn't seem to cause a problem usually. The 3.0T, 3.2l and 4.2 get really bad. I've only seen a couple of 2.0t with problems from carbon buildup, but a lot of the other engines. That says a lot considering that the 2.0T is by far the most common engine we see.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 28, 2014 16:45
|
|
|
So the last few days Audi sent me to training for the new 2015 A3 and I got some hands-on time with the car. Anybody here got any questions about the new model, I may be able to divulge some information that is yet to be published.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 7, 2014 23:59
|
|
|
Snowdens Secret posted:Yeah, when are they coming out with the hatchback Unfortunately, I was told that the 5 door is only going to be available as a hybrid in the USA, and its supposedly coming out in the fall. If the MMI/infotainment system is important to you, the A3 now has a better technology package than even the A8. Other than that, the new engine has some modifications such as the exhaust manifold being cast into the cylinder head, the exhaust camshaft having adjustable timing, and a different water pump setup that allows coolant flow to be directed to nearly any specific component.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 8, 2014 00:47
|
|
|
veedubfreak posted:A hatchback A3 would cut into R sales There is a new Haldex system (5th generation) in the 2015 A3. I don't know a whole lot about what's different other than the fluid interval is now 3 years regardless of mileage and there's no longer a Haldex oil filter, the new unit is also apparently 3.7lb lighter than the old unit. Some more information: --Available driveline options-- ALL AVAILABLE WITH DSG ONLY, NO MANUAL TRANS. New 1.8T FWD only New 2.0T AWD 2.0 TDI FWD only Hatchback/5-door (coming later) Plug-in Hybrid only FWD. S3 will be coming with the 2.0T with a bigger turbo. The new 1.8T and 2.0T FINALLY have completely different ignition coils, and they are bolted to the cylinder head! Hopefully this means the VW/Audi ignition coil problems are finally fixed. Another big change to the 2.0T and 1.8T is that the turbochargers now have replaceable wastegates, and they are electronically controlled rather than vacuum operated. TDI is available only with torsion beam rear suspension as they now use adblue and apparently the engineers couldn't figure out how to make the adblue tank fit while keeping 4-link suspension. Dynamic suspension is Standard. Sport suspension is optional, with more agressive dampening and 0.59" lower rideheight. S-line suspension also optional, even more agressive than Sport, and 0.98" lower than Standard. S3 will be available with magnetic ride system. The 2015 A3 will be the first Audi available with 4G LTE internet through AT&T. TL;DR: The new A3 actually has a lot of changes Brain Issues fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Feb 11, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Feb 11, 2014 00:59
|
|
Personally I think the R is a better looking car than the A3 hatch anyway. How's the Haldex?
|
JHVH-1 posted:The US Audis had like A3 S-line. This isn't the same thing as a real S3 right? Will there be a real S3 in the US? Yeah. There's S-line and S3. Sedan only. Hatchback A3 will be plugin hybrid only in the US.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 11, 2014 20:24
|
|
|
Hoopy Frood posted:Today I'll be paying my VW mechanic $650 AUD (let's say around $450 US) to replace my timing belt, labor included. How badly am I being screwed? Is this something I could have done myself with no experience, or is it as complicated as the price suggests? That's a pretty good deal. You're not getting screwed.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 17, 2014 23:57
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 20:35 |
|
|
lightpole posted:Who the gently caress says Hey guys, lets throw the battery under the drivers seat! Turning a 15 minute job into a one that starts with Step 1: Remove drivers seat. It's not like they were pressed for space in the engine compartment. You don't need to remove the whole seat. The seat is on a hinge, you only need to remove the front 2 XZN10 bolts and the seat folds back. This is the proper way to replace a battery on a Q7. http://www.audiforums.com/forum/audi-q7-66/removing-battery-q7-121477/#post1394163
|
|
#
¿
Feb 23, 2014 20:43
|
|