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FAT CURES MUSCLES
Jun 2, 2011



Thanks goons, it was the nuts / bolts on the left side (where the extruder is) that were slightly loose and had some wobble. Tightened them up and printed out a usable piece, however while trying to clean some gunk off from the previous prints while it was hot somehow led me to accidentally shorting the thermistor and now the machine reads a constant temp for both bed and nozzle . Guess I need to order some and wait a few more days. On the other hand, I guess I can update to the tinymachines firmware.


Edit: both temps read max temps even with the thermistors / thermostat / thermometers/ etc, unplugged. This is a board problem isnt it .

FAT CURES MUSCLES fucked around with this message at 15:31 on May 19, 2020

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shovelbum
Oct 21, 2010



Fallen Rib

This is a great hobby because I can feel productive any time the printer is running.

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009


Parts Kit posted:

Any idea on how long the printer could run on your UPS? I've also got a Prusa and unfortunately the Power Panic's rehoming induced a layer shift.

I could probably figure it out using a smart plug - they measure power consumption in real-time.

Stupid_Sexy_Flander
Mar 14, 2007

Is a man not entitled to the haw of his maw?


Grimey Drawer

Random weird thought.

Trying to work out how to build a washing station in my head, instead of spending $250 bucks on the anycubic one. Magnetic stirrers are about ~30 bucks for a small one, I'm thinking a basket and a jar is all that's needed (besides a lid). Can't work out how to get the basket to stay with the lid, or how to keep the basket from smacking into the spinner though...

shovelbum
Oct 21, 2010



Fallen Rib

Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:

Random weird thought.

Trying to work out how to build a washing station in my head, instead of spending $250 bucks on the anycubic one. Magnetic stirrers are about ~30 bucks for a small one, I'm thinking a basket and a jar is all that's needed (besides a lid). Can't work out how to get the basket to stay with the lid, or how to keep the basket from smacking into the spinner though...

Just make the basket hang from the rim of the container, and then have the lid fit over the whole thing.

2 minute sketch:

edit: you can get all kinds of baskets and containers real cheap from restaurant suppliers that would probably be able to be rigged up this way

Only registered members can see post attachments!

shovelbum fucked around with this message at 22:45 on May 19, 2020

The Eyes Have It
Feb 9, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:

Random weird thought.

Trying to work out how to build a washing station in my head, instead of spending $250 bucks on the anycubic one. Magnetic stirrers are about ~30 bucks for a small one, I'm thinking a basket and a jar is all that's needed (besides a lid). Can't work out how to get the basket to stay with the lid, or how to keep the basket from smacking into the spinner though...

I did exactly that and to do the job printed a quick and dirty thing, here it is printed upside-down.

E: can't seem to find where I downloaded it from



It goes into a tupperware-like container with a lid, which can in turn sit on a cheap magnetic stirrer. (The thinner the container bottom, the closer the little puck is to the stirrer plate and the better.)

I just scale the model to fit whatever container dimensions. It sits over the spinner and holds the models off of it and allows good flow all around.

The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 15:23 on May 20, 2020

Stupid_Sexy_Flander
Mar 14, 2007

Is a man not entitled to the haw of his maw?


Grimey Drawer

How does PLA handle acetone? That's pretty much what I'm washing the resin with at the moment...

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012





Gravy Boat 2k

Acetone doesn't do anything to PLA over the short term, but if you soak parts in it for days they could get kinda squishy.

Stupid_Sexy_Flander
Mar 14, 2007

Is a man not entitled to the haw of his maw?


Grimey Drawer

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WD1F7HD

Might go with this, why reinvent the wheel when I can just buy a pickle jar? Just wish it said what the measurement between the bottom of the jar and the basket is.

shovelbum
Oct 21, 2010



Fallen Rib

Where's Ambrose with some beautiful bent wire solution

60 Hertz Jig
May 21, 2006


Fun Shoe

Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WD1F7HD

Might go with this, why reinvent the wheel when I can just buy a pickle jar? Just wish it said what the measurement between the bottom of the jar and the basket is.

I have those exact jars and it's tight - about 2mm (the strainer has feet on the bottom that sit it above the bottom of the jar)

60 Hertz Jig fucked around with this message at 00:26 on May 20, 2020

Stupid_Sexy_Flander
Mar 14, 2007

Is a man not entitled to the haw of his maw?


Grimey Drawer

drat. I need like a quarter inch or so. Maybe I can trim the top a bit it may be use some monofilament line to tie around one of the spokes and use that to hold it up above the spinner?

stevewm
May 10, 2005


Well this is gonna take a minute to install...




Gotta pull 3 more wires up one of the towers, map out all the existing wires, and splice the new whip into the existing wiring. Fun times!

The Eyes Have It
Feb 9, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WD1F7HD

Might go with this, why reinvent the wheel when I can just buy a pickle jar? Just wish it said what the measurement between the bottom of the jar and the basket is.

That looks good for manual agitation, i.e. swishing the basket up and down.

Formlabs wash basins are made kind of like that and it's handy.

insta
Jan 28, 2009


Well, gently caress.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 9, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

Gross


Any idea what happened?

Stupid_Sexy_Flander
Mar 14, 2007

Is a man not entitled to the haw of his maw?


Grimey Drawer

drat.

Well, the good news is you don't have to troubleshoot the problem, it's pretty obvious what it is.

*brohugs* man, that sucks.

insta
Jan 28, 2009


The FunMat HT has a little touchscreen panel, that inside of there is a "send bed to bottom" and "send bed to top" pair of options. There are limit switches at each end of travel, and it will rapid until it hits the limit switch in that direction. I like to store my half-width spool of polycarbonate under the bed to keep it dry in the chamber (there is space for a full spool, so it's definitely not hitting anything). I hit the "bed to top" option, put the spool under it as it was rapiding upwards, then hit the "bed to bottom" option. As far as I can tell, the firmware switched which endstop it was listening to, but it was still doing the "rapid until endstop" command. Since the active endstop was the bottom one, it rammed the bed straight up through the nozzle and shattered the print bed. Nothing else seems damaged (yet...), but I am pretty annoyed.

The nozzle itself has a limit switch which it uses for bed probing. It ignored that one too, which would have made a nice deadman's switch. I am trying to start a warranty claim.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 9, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

Whoo that design is a good example of a people-killer (if it were an e.g. elevator instead of a printer, anyway)

shovelbum
Oct 21, 2010



Fallen Rib

insta posted:

The FunMat HT has a little touchscreen panel, that inside of there is a "send bed to bottom" and "send bed to top" pair of options. There are limit switches at each end of travel, and it will rapid until it hits the limit switch in that direction. I like to store my half-width spool of polycarbonate under the bed to keep it dry in the chamber (there is space for a full spool, so it's definitely not hitting anything). I hit the "bed to top" option, put the spool under it as it was rapiding upwards, then hit the "bed to bottom" option. As far as I can tell, the firmware switched which endstop it was listening to, but it was still doing the "rapid until endstop" command. Since the active endstop was the bottom one, it rammed the bed straight up through the nozzle and shattered the print bed. Nothing else seems damaged (yet...), but I am pretty annoyed.

The nozzle itself has a limit switch which it uses for bed probing. It ignored that one too, which would have made a nice deadman's switch. I am trying to start a warranty claim.

I had never heard of this printer and now that I look it up, drat, you would expect better

insta
Jan 28, 2009


shovelbum posted:

I had never heard of this printer and now that I look it up, drat, you would expect better

I do expect better, and that's why they're gonna send me a new bed.

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT

insta posted:

I do expect better, and that's why they're gonna send me a new bed.

One would hope a firmware update would follow close behind. It's cool that you can get a PEEK / Ultem machine for under 5 grand but if there's only one company doing it at that price, you're probably a beta tester.

shovelbum
Oct 21, 2010



Fallen Rib

insta posted:

I do expect better, and that's why they're gonna send me a new bed.

hell yeah!

i forget, are you using the high temp engineering plastics stuff for business, or is this machine just glorious decadence

insta
Jan 28, 2009


shovelbum posted:

hell yeah!

i forget, are you using the high temp engineering plastics stuff for business, or is this machine just glorious decadence

I do commissioned printing through 3D Hubs as a side business. I have a small fleet of abused MakerGear M2's for PLA / PETG, and some unreliable CR10/CR10Ses for larger PLA/PETG parts. A lot of the better paying jobs were ABS, and I couldn't stop the warping or delamination. 3D Hubs also split into "consumer" and "engineering" grades, and the decent money went over to the engineering grades (for sorta obvious reasons). 90% of the printing the machine does is ABS, which it rocks at. But, when an ULTEM job comes through, it's nice to be able to swap over to the "high temp" hotend and watch the lights in my house faintly strobe in tune to the PWM of the heaters

Nothing I do personally requires ULTEM. I might print an AR lower for shiggles though.

biracial bear for uncut
Jun 9, 2009

ask me about being the most obnoxious person of all time

Print an Ultem Benchy and post pics?

insta
Jan 28, 2009


Or the part I printed successfully before exploding my bed.

shovelbum
Oct 21, 2010



Fallen Rib

I wish Ultem and PEEK had somewhat more dramatic properties for all the hassle in printing them. Like then you could have a benchy that could withstand a torch

insta
Jan 28, 2009


shovelbum posted:

I wish Ultem and PEEK had somewhat more dramatic properties for all the hassle in printing them. Like then you could have a benchy that could withstand a torch

I mean, the ULTEM 9085 that's printed from has a working temperature of 170C without any weakening. You could very realistically use it for automotive parts, since it would also stand up to the various solvents and oil-sprays under the hood. It's 16% the weight of aluminum, but about 40% the mechanical properties. But, in the end, it is still plastic.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!



shovelbum posted:

I had never heard of this printer and now that I look it up, drat, you would expect better

I liked seeing some of the cool stuff Vision Miner sells (mostly high temp printers for engineering plastics) when Joel did a video visiting them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_KvD1yKs40

I got the sample of their bed adhesion stuff but haven't had anything to print to try it out yet.

shovelbum
Oct 21, 2010



Fallen Rib

insta posted:

I mean, the ULTEM 9085 that's printed from has a working temperature of 170C without any weakening. You could very realistically use it for automotive parts, since it would also stand up to the various solvents and oil-sprays under the hood. It's 16% the weight of aluminum, but about 40% the mechanical properties. But, in the end, it is still plastic.

Yeah, that's drat good plastic though. Aluminum is a wonder material and is unfairly maligned. There are a lot of applications where the cracking and galvanic corrosion aren't big issues.

Edit: I hate how deep an enclosure the Prusa takes, bed slinging is very Y-intensive and so many off the shelf steel boxes with doors are <24" interior dimension

Edit 2: the lack enclosure is 22" but I don't see how?

Edit 3: CR10 goons are those things even possible to make good

shovelbum fucked around with this message at 19:05 on May 20, 2020

Forseti
May 26, 2001
To the lovenasium!


My CR-10 purchased from Amazon last cyber Monday has been great

Bone stock, only had to shim the middle of the glass build plate with some tinfoil to counter its dishing. I got the CR-10 because I figured it would do a pretty good job stock and I'd rather do the upgrades to the more expensive variants myself if necessary. So far that has been the case and I haven't felt the need to upgrade anything yet although something resonates and makes a horrible noise that drives me crazy. Haven't bothered to track it down yet, from research it seems to be the cooling fan attachment and I can put some rubber washers on the screws and fix it. I just print slower where it tends not to resonate though.

I did have build adhesion issues initially but after shimming the glass and adopting cheap hairspray it's very trouble free now.

It is my third printer however and I was confident I could diagnose it and fix any of the problems people get (also got it from Amazon so I could exchange it more easily if I got a real bad one). Have to admit I didn't even adjust the belts or wheels when I assembled it.

I tend to print more custom brackets, parts, and such than figures but here's a fuckofftapus next to some arms for a lamp. Probably not top notch quality but good enough for me.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

drunk mutt
Jul 5, 2011


How often do y'all sand your prints?

I've been finding using PrusaSlicer and it's supports that I tend to need to sand to get oddities away from where supports on the bed are immediate on the print object.

I do still feel like I'm constantly fighting the bed mesh and over extrusion. But this doesn't ever really seem to be an issue when I do smaller prints.

insta
Jan 28, 2009


Set your bed to 70C, and take a time lapse of it. Don't print anything, just record the static bed. Does the accelerated video look like it's breathing?

shovelbum
Oct 21, 2010



Fallen Rib

drunk mutt posted:

How often do y'all sand your prints?

I've been finding using PrusaSlicer and it's supports that I tend to need to sand to get oddities away from where supports on the bed are immediate on the print object.

Bridges and stuff that's directly supported by supports always look a little janky for me, I mostly just try to avoid that kind of geometry. I have right now like 16 hours of printing done, but it's a mechanical assembly and a few things didn't work out quite right and it's very frustrating. I was able to sand and file some of the parts but I think I'm just going to reprint one of the sub pieces really sloppy and then try to remodel the whole thing to use more bearings and steel pins and see which I like better.

Veotax
May 16, 2006



I just brought an Ender 3 and run my first few prints. They've come out pretty great, but the 3Dbenchy I did had quite a bit of stringing and an anomaly on one side of the hull.



I used Ultimaker Cura 4.6 as my slicer and just the default settings. I'm a complete novice at this, is there anything I need to watch out for to avoid more stringing like this?

Forseti
May 26, 2001
To the lovenasium!


Bowdens have a lot more "momentum" if you will, so it takes a bit longer to start extruding and also to stop. You can play with the coasting setting (which will tell it to stop extruding before the actual end of a movement by an adjustable amount) or the retraction speed/distance. I think linear advance would be even more accurate but I haven't played with that and I'm not sure the stock firmwares have this setting? Dunno but just thought I'd throw it out there if you wanted to research it. Maybe EStep calibration but I think it would cause more issues if it were off. It's never a bad thing to calibrate that though.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

Those zits on the hull are likely where the z-layer step is happening. Searching for z seam or zits will turn up a number of things to try as possible fixes.

ceebee
Feb 12, 2004


Just preordered a Snapmaker 2.0, curious to see how a 3-in-1 machine works (CNC, Laser, and 3D extrusion). Was about $1400. The only other device I have for printing is a $300 Elegoo Mars but I'm holding out on buying a larger scale resin printer once they all start going the mono-LCD route. My main complaint with resin-based printing is how toxic and messy the actual resin is, I just don't trust these cheap rear end chinese resins. Anybody have any experience with Snapmaker devices by the way?

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!



Veotax posted:

I just brought an Ender 3 and run my first few prints. They've come out pretty great, but the 3Dbenchy I did had quite a bit of stringing and an anomaly on one side of the hull.



I used Ultimaker Cura 4.6 as my slicer and just the default settings. I'm a complete novice at this, is there anything I need to watch out for to avoid more stringing like this?

Stringing can vary with the filament and printer setup, but I've got very little most of the time with my retraction settings as:


In Cura you have to hit the cog in the settings and go in and checkbox the settings you want to see in the settings panel. I also use the add-on (they're in the Marketplace button up top) called Sidebar GUI so they're always present like they used to be in previous versions but that's more of a personal preference.

That said, you may have to change them slightly because I've got one of the slightly tighter bowden tubes, a chinese knock-off of the capricorn stuff, but I'd give those a shot and see if they help.

CHEP has a lot of really good videos on tuning the Ender 3 with Cura since that's primarily what he uses: https://youtube.com/user/beginnerelectronics/videos

Here's his one on reducing the seam you get from the layer starts and stops:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NU1kYEE3qrQ

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Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004





Veotax posted:

I just brought an Ender 3 and run my first few prints. They've come out pretty great, but the 3Dbenchy I did had quite a bit of stringing and an anomaly on one side of the hull.



I used Ultimaker Cura 4.6 as my slicer and just the default settings. I'm a complete novice at this, is there anything I need to watch out for to avoid more stringing like this?

Looks like the Ender 3 is about $200 shipped? Is this an acceptable 2am drunk purchase? Asking for a friend. Yes I am aware I asked about $600 tier printers just a few pages back

I figure even if I buy a high end printer, I'm still gonna have to slice my boat hulls into ~8x8x8" chunks anyways with Cura, plus the hull is gonna need to be faired and painted so

I have a bunch of balsa coming this weekend, gonna practice building boxy 36" boat hulls with that before committing to 3D printing one out of 10 chunks and gluing them together

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