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Enjoy the sounds of a failed piston or connecting rod in my 300TD http://youtu.be/7EoN38iPapw
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Jul 23, 2011 04:39
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EvilMoFo posted:If it is the same transmission as they used on W123 300D cars, that is completely normal and a good thing. Very possible. Any idea how I'd check? I've tried to look up part numbers and have failed for the 300D--190E has a 722.3 or 722.4 transmission in it. As an aside: Looks like my oil pressure sender is shot, too. Joy!
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Jul 24, 2011 20:25
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   Deconstructing my 300TD for engine removal
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Jul 25, 2011 00:36
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CommieGIR posted:Sweet Wagon Pics
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Jul 25, 2011 00:39
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Francis Baconator posted:That thing is gorgeous, can't remember the last time I saw a wagon from that generation. I'm looking forward to seeing what you find inside. It's like some sick Christmas day gift-opening. More to come, I was removing the manifolds today. The car is in overall EXCELLENT condition for a 1980, has all the luxuries (SLS Hydraulic rear suspension, electric windows, 4 wheel disc brakes, power steering, WORKING AC, etc.) The seats are not even TORN! The carpeting has no tears or stains, the only torn up parts is the dash and the wood paneling is falling off (nothing that can't be solved by some epoxy) Not to mention, no major body cancer, minor rust only, its in perfect health for a 30 year old wagon (despite the unhealthy engine) Oh it also came with TONS of spare body parts, spare brake and front lights, I have everything I need to restore it to original OEM condition. Oh, and unlike every other old car I've gotten the trunk lid opens like a spring. All for the cool cool price of $500. BONUS: Interior   CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Jul 25, 2011 |
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Jul 25, 2011 00:45
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I'll trade you! My drat 190E's 2-3 tranny kick is now being accentuated by a popping/grinding noise from the rear. Waking up early to check the CV joints, axles, flex discs, ball joints, and wheel bearings. My buddy (experienced mechanic) mentioned that I should check the "cross joint". I promptly asked "do you mean the CV joint?" (thinking there's no difference between CV joints and U-joints) He replied "Cross joint is different dude, it's like a bearing. Cv joints are inside the axle. Cv joints are axle bearings. Good luck." and hasn't been heard from since (he's overseas). Any idea what he might have meant? I'm guessing he means wheel bearings, but I spoke to him about my last car and we both used the term "wheel bearing" when I was describing a grinding there. Either way, off to sleep so I can go push and pull on random parts of my car tomorrow, and pray I make it to and from work safely...
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Aug 3, 2011 08:47
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Can someone give me a rough model year for this MB, please? I need to get some fake plates made up for it for a TV show and want the year to be right (in the UK).
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Aug 3, 2011 11:56
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Early to mid 2000s? ish
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Aug 3, 2011 13:30
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Between 2003 and 2008.
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Aug 3, 2011 15:05
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Sprout Magnet posted:Cross joint  Or...  Dude, check out the cross joint 
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Aug 3, 2011 19:52
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el topo posted:Between 2003 and 2008. The Third Man posted:Early to mid 2000s? You're both gents, thanks very much.
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Aug 3, 2011 22:37
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echoplex posted:I need to get some fake plates made up for it for a TV show and want the year to be right (in the UK). Can we assume this UK TV show that uses fake plates is what we're all assuming it is?
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Aug 3, 2011 23:02
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Adiabatic posted:Can we assume this UK TV show that uses fake plates is what we're all assuming it is? Sadly not (I think they use real plates most of the time)
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Aug 4, 2011 09:12
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I'm going to see an '87 300D turbo tomorrow, and if it runs well hopefully drive it home. Iirc the major flaw with the engine was the head gasket being aluminum, but by 191k I would think it would have already gone if it was going to. I know to look for knocking and such, but are there any major problems I should be looking for?
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Aug 6, 2011 02:30
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That is that motor the dirty dieselers say to avoid. I don't know much about it myself. I'd guess that if it has 191k then it's not one of the afflicted motors, but I'm not entirely sure that's the long and short of it either. One thing I'd be sure to check is the coolant. If it has any signs of oil contamination, run.
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Aug 6, 2011 02:39
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 (No need to blur plates, right? Who would steal this?) Picked it up this afternoon and had a nice 48 mile drive home to get a feel, and it feels good. The engine seems to be in great condition, no hesitation at all in accel, no shifting problems. Suspension is pretty soft, but perfectly drivable. AC system is stuck in low fan mode or off only. The sunroof works! The coolant was perfectly clean too.  To do list: -Replace brake pads, resurface rotors -Get valves adjusted (slight knock at idle) -Investigate mystery leak (small amount of moisture in engine bay) -Look into replacing (part that controls wiper fluid) -Epoxy over tiny hole in floor -Try and find a way to stabilize the driver's seat (Little wobbly from someone rather large driving it for a long time, I assume)
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Aug 8, 2011 05:28
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So, anyone here ever pull a W123 rear subframe? I'm tired of my 240d steering itself all over the drat road.
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Aug 8, 2011 17:06
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Ugh. My wife took our 2005 C230 Komp SS to the shop yesterday because it would no longer lock the doors over 5mph and the windows would not roll up or down automatically anymore. They called me and told me that the battery needed to be replaced and that it would be $250 for the battery replacement and then $90 bucks for the ground wire for the new battery. I told them I'd call ahead and I'd be up there tomorrow to pick it up and to just jump it with something in the shop and leave it running until I get there and to just leave it alone. Called Checker and they have a battery for $100 bucks brand new so I'll just swing by on the way home and spend 10 minutes swapping the battery out at home. They also told me that the rotors are grooved pretty badly and that they would need to change them here shortly and I asked how much. $900 bucks for the fronts. I again said no thanks and saw that I can get the OEM ones for $100 bucks a piece online and spend the afternoon and do it myself. They did give her a brand new GLK 350 as a courtesy car. That thing is so small on the inside but it's pretty peppy for being a smallish suv. OptimusMatrix fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Aug 9, 2011 |
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Aug 9, 2011 15:08
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OptimusMatrix posted:Ugh. My wife took our 2005 C230 Komp SS to the shop yesterday because it would no longer lock the doors over 5mph and the windows would not roll up or down automatically anymore. They called me and told me that the battery needed to be replaced and that it would be $250 for the battery replacement and then $90 bucks for the ground wire for the new battery. I told them I'd call ahead and I'd be up there tomorrow to pick it up and to just jump it with something in the shop and leave it running until I get there and to just leave it alone. Called Checker and they have a battery for $100 bucks brand new so I'll just swing by on the way home and spend 10 minutes swapping the battery out at home. They also told me that the rotors are grooved pretty badly and that they would need to change them here shortly and I asked how much. $900 bucks for the fronts. I again said no thanks and saw that I can get the OEM ones for $100 bucks a piece online and spend the afternoon and do it myself. The GLK 350 surprisingly does not suck. DasVolk and I rented one in Tahoe and the thing performed like a champ during an insane snowstorm.
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Aug 9, 2011 15:28
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Belldandy posted:The GLK 350 surprisingly does not suck. DasVolk and I rented one in Tahoe and the thing performed like a champ during an insane snowstorm. Yeah it's not a bad little car 270hp in that small of car zips around pretty good and it rode pretty nice. But the backseat leg room is virtually non existent.
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Aug 9, 2011 15:31
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OptimusMatrix posted:Yeah it's not a bad little car 270hp in that small of car zips around pretty good and it rode pretty nice. But the backseat leg room is virtually non existent. 270HP in a 4300lbs car isn't zippy. It just has good clearance and the AWD/Traction system isn't garbage.
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Aug 9, 2011 15:52
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Belldandy posted:270HP in a 4300lbs car isn't zippy. It just has good clearance and the AWD/Traction system isn't garbage. Hmm maybe I'm not used to the ride height and it seemed like I was going faster than what I was.
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Aug 9, 2011 16:08
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At what RPM should the C107/560sl switch out of first gear? Mine always sounds like it is reving to the moon when accelerating slowly in first. However, it feels fine and isn't actually reving all that high.
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Aug 9, 2011 16:39
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Belldandy posted:The GLK 350 surprisingly does not suck. DasVolk and I rented one in Tahoe and the thing performed like a champ during an insane snowstorm. It's about what you'd expect if you jacked up a C300, dropped a bigger engine in, turned it into a wagon and sold it for the same price. The performance is about the same but the ride height comes at the expense of cornering. And the reliability is bad, I don't think that's powertrain-related though. The rear seat room was the most disappointing part, I didn't expect THAT to carry over from the C300, they could've done much better.
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Aug 9, 2011 16:44
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NOTinuyasha posted:It's about what you'd expect if you jacked up a C300, dropped a bigger engine in, turned it into a wagon and sold it for the same price. The performance is about the same but the ride height comes at the expense of cornering. This is the exact thing that I thought about it. I do like the looks of it though.
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Aug 9, 2011 16:47
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Tai-Pan posted:At what RPM should the C107/560sl switch out of first gear? Mine always sounds like it is reving to the moon when accelerating slowly in first. However, it feels fine and isn't actually reving all that high.
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Aug 9, 2011 23:40
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Glad to see there is a Benz thread in here. I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, but am getting sick and tired of working on my SO's Subaru Forester. I'm wanting to simply my life a little and get something that is more rewarding to work on. A co-worker of mine has a '78 300D non-turbo Coupe with 270K on it he is selling for $4,500. Appears to run good, slight amount of blue smoke when cold and there is a little bit of an injector knock. Body and interior are quite good for something of it's age. Any problems that happen with these cars around this vintage/mileage?
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Aug 11, 2011 18:31
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Lowclock posted:Same thing as what we usually call a u-joint, like on drive shafts. Cross shaped. Thanks!--I know where mine is based on that. Thought it was called a spider usually, but I guess cross joint works too. I also went straight to Pineapple Express when I heard the term... It's an inch or so in front of the center stabilizing bracket for the driveshaft. My rear flex disc was shot and has been replaced. Then, I discovered the stupendous amount of damage to the front flex disc. It should arrive late today or early tomorrow, so I'll be replacing that as well. I'll check the spider at the same time--yay!
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Aug 11, 2011 20:21
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7734 posted:Glad to see there is a Benz thread in here. Take the coupe for a test drive and see if you like it. I have a 1980 300cd without a turbo, it's loud on the highway due to higher gearing, less insulation and power relative to the later models. $4,500 is an unrealistic price for 270k miles, unless everything is rebuilt. Still high for a non-turbo. Coupe-specific problems are broken window regulators in the rear, costly window seals & glass. That year's climate control is troublesome, to say the least. At 33 years old, all rubber parts are suspect; at that mileage, everything else. Got any pictures?
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Aug 12, 2011 04:52
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7734 posted:I'm wanting to simply my life a little and get something that is more rewarding to work on.....'78 300D non-turbo Coupe with 270K If you want to work on the car and you enjoy it, by all means. However, if your goal is actually to simplify your life, why are you looking at a 30+ year old car? Get a 10 year old Corolla.
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Aug 12, 2011 06:37
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Thanks for the advice on the Benz. I agree that $4500 is to high, offered $3500 on it, though my co-worker is actually selling it for someone so I don't know how much of a hurry they are to sell. As far as simplifying my life goes, that might have not been the best phrase to use. A 10 year old commuter car would be far, far more simple, but my S.O. hates cars like that. It's either another high mileage Subaru or something like a old Benz. I run the parts department at a marine diesel repair shop, so I actually have some experience working with old diesels, not to mention a whole shop full of the exact tools I'll need. Here is a picture of the car:  Even if this deal falls through, I think I'm going to keep on trying to get an old diesel Benz. I live in the Pacific NW in an area that is just full of rich, trust fund, wanna be hippies, and these kind of cars are really popular with that crowd.
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Aug 12, 2011 17:30
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I'm also looking at a old Mercedes, a 1980 300TD (non-turbo). About 125k miles, only had about 1000 of those during the past five years. Doesn't leak any oil and has good pressure. Great interior and exterior. Only rust is on the bottom edge of the rear window, about 1/2" strip the entire length. Engine sounds great, no knocking, no smoke. Top radiator hose is still pliable. Nothing wrong with the vacuum or electrical systems. Good alignment, no pulling. It needs new tires, a new glow plug and a new rear shock. A/C blows and isn't cold but was colder than the ambient air (needs to be refilled possibly?). Radio turns on but the audio is some electronic squeal. It seems like it takes a little bit of time to get up to 25mph but cruises pretty well once it gets going. I don't have much mechanical experience period, much less with a diesel. The seller is asking $3500 but I wonder if I'm missing something. I'd like to have it checked out by a mechanic as well. What do you guys think?
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Sep 10, 2011 21:46
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icehewk posted:I'm also looking at a old Mercedes, a 1980 300TD (non-turbo). About 125k miles, only had about 1000 of those during the past five years. Doesn't leak any oil and has good pressure. Great interior and exterior. Only rust is on the bottom edge of the rear window, about 1/2" strip the entire length. Engine sounds great, no knocking, no smoke. Top radiator hose is still pliable. Nothing wrong with the vacuum or electrical systems. Good alignment, no pulling. I would take it to a trusted mechanic for a pre-purchase inspection to get a laundry list of what the car needs. Keep in mind that 1980 isn't a great year for these cars (nonturbo engine, less insulation & rustproofing, 1960's nightmare HVAC system) and $3500 is too much for the condition as described. Any pictures? W123's are relatively simple work on, if you want to learn. You can do routine maintenance and work your way up to suspension, brake and HVAC work. Just one round of the routine maintenance that car needs could exceed its purchase price (if you can find a qualified mechanic!). Also, it likely isn't a good idea to have an old Benz as your primary car, at least without a backup.
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Sep 10, 2011 22:29
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Only pics available are from the ad: http://imgur.com/w0hBJ.gif I'm definitely willing to learn how to do work on it, but I'm leaning away from it due the non-turbo and poor rust-proofing. Doing all the work needed to get this car in great condition would be still end in disappointment. Going through a minor intersection shouldn't take 6-8 seconds. What would the best years be for maintenance/rust proofing that should I be looking at? I'm not in any hurry.
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Sep 11, 2011 00:29
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A W123 for over ~2500 has to be in pretty good condition, given the market conditions, unless the seller is an asshat. I would not buy a wagon without a visit to a mechanic, with specific attention given to the magical rear suspension. Wagon parts tend to be unique, unique is not what you seek in a car that will need work at some point; there were many more sedans made than there were wagons. Driving a w123 diesel like a modern car will not have the results you seek. It is simply impossible to hit triple digits in these non turbo diesels without a hill involved. Likewise, the only thing you will beat off of a line is a bus or a truck; you stop missing acceleration after a while. MATLAB 1988 posted:Keep in mind that 1980 isn't a great year for these cars (... 1960's nightmare HVAC system)
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Sep 11, 2011 13:53
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EvilMoFo posted:Seriously now, what year had an HVAC system that was not a nightmare? Model T?
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Sep 11, 2011 18:22
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EvilMoFo posted:Seriously now, what year had an HVAC system that was not a nightmare? 1977-1983 240d with manual climate control.  With the 1981-1985 ACC, you might have to replace a monovalve or re-solder the ACC board to have it work perfectly. 1977-1980 ACC? Have a look at this. http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123ACC1Conversion The best year for the 240d is 1983 and 1985 for the 300d/300cd/300td. The later models have lower gear ratios for better highway travel and many other improvements. There's a clear difference between well-sorted 1977 and 1985 models in refinement and drivability. They're still bested by a Kia Rio in all aspects though. I'm waiting for a craigslist seller to reply back on a 280ce partout, so I can grab a set of European bumpers, headlights & taillights, all 4 manual window cranks and a non-delaminated rear windshield. IMHO the coupe looks better with European gear but sedans and wagons can keep the battle-bumpers. From:  To: 
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Sep 11, 2011 19:18
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MATLAB 1988 posted:1977-1983 240d with manual climate control. We are the original owner of a 77 300D and I bought an 85 300D earler this year. It honestly is night and day with what was done to the car over the 8 years of production. EvilMoFo fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Sep 12, 2011 |
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Sep 12, 2011 01:51
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Wasn't there a guy here with a 4 door Merc' that was supercharged? I wonder what happened to him and the car?
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Sep 12, 2011 21:17
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Sweet a merc thread! I'm a student in perth looking for a reliable and low maintenance car, how is a 2002 W203 C180 for that? Looking at carsurvey.org reviews it seems lots of mercs seem to have rust problems around the 5-10 year mark so I'll be checking for that, but apart from rust are there any issues I should look out for? How are the electronics, AC etc?
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Sep 25, 2011 15:23
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