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Boundless316 posted:Well gently caress me, I love how I miss the obvious sometimes. Thanks! Now I just have to get the spoiler off.  No problem.
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May 21, 2014 12:31
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Well this isn't going to be cheap. My trans is currently at TMZ after finding ferrous shavings in the oil. I've been debating parting out for 3 or so years now and this might be the final nail in the coffin. Tim seems to be a good, if extremely busy man. "The transmission is torn down, It looks like Jacks Transmissions had this thing last? Soda can shims, reused shaft nuts, machined down center diff cross-shaft for the 4-spider, stupid modified 3/4 shift fork for double pin that is a complete hassle how he does the 2nd pin. Off the bat, your center diff pinion gearset and cross-shaft is damaged. One of the "modified" stock cross-shaft posts is snapped off, the other machined down one is severely galled so 2 of 4 spider gears are junk. The lower pinion gear took a good hit out of it and the upper one looks meh. The other two spider gears look decent still (the ones that were on factory posts that were still surface hardened). I will tear down the clusters tomorrow. I have to figure out what 1st gear is installed in this as it is not a factory DSM 2nd unless it is an early model DSM 1st. As for other gears, it has a double synchro 2nd, a double synchro looks like a evo 3 3rd with a tall dsm 4th and dsm 5th gears. The intermediate shaft bearings are totally wiped out. The 3rd/4th shift rail has a bent rail end, and it needs forks for 1/2 and 3/4 either way. I will put together a list for the transmission tomorrow and will take apart the tcase tomorrow as well". I have some thinking to do. I like the car but I've had my fun and have been itching something fierce for a new project.
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May 21, 2014 22:03
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Guy Random posted:Well this isn't going to be cheap. My trans is currently at TMZ after finding ferrous shavings in the oil. I've been debating parting out for 3 or so years now and this might be the final nail in the coffin. Tim seems to be a good, if extremely busy man. My trans is also at TMZ and I am terrified to hear that kind of report back because AFAIK the trans I had was rebuilt by some bozo in Florida with a lot of promises and not a lot of sense. 
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May 21, 2014 22:12
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My Talon's been sitting for a bit so I decided to get it charged up and running again. It jumped fine and idled for 20 minutes, but ultimately the battery was dead. I exchanged the battery at Autozone and it's good as new. New giving life to old:  Now I need to see if I want to keep the car or sell it. I've owned it for 13 years, but only put 700 miles on it since I rebuilt the engine a year ago now. It still needs a bunch of work on little things to make it really worth driving around, but with another project car to spend money on and a 75lb dog to haul around, the Talon doesn't make much sense these days.
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Jul 8, 2014 01:25
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BoostCreep posted:My Talon's been sitting for a bit so I decided to get it charged up and running again. It jumped fine and idled for 20 minutes, but ultimately the battery was dead. I exchanged the battery at Autozone and it's good as new. For how little they sell for anymore (at least around here, but they're all rusty as gently caress) it may not be worth selling. I don't regret getting rid of mine because I think it was on the verge of spinning a bearing or something terrible, but if yours is good to go for awhile then I'd just roll with it. Or do something silly with it like put the drivetrain in a Yugo.
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Jul 8, 2014 03:01
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Sell it. Pick at the little "drivability pieces" at your leisure and you might get 4k for it.
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Jul 8, 2014 03:07
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Octopus Magic posted:Sell it. Pick at the little "drivability pieces" at your leisure and you might get 4k for it. Yeah, I have about 4k in the rebuild. I'll hang onto it.
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Jul 8, 2014 08:22
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Here's a question. Are the engine wiring harnesses (the one that goes through the firewall) different between a 1995 and a 1997? If so, poo poo; I'm going to have to swap the harnesses to get my '97 engine working. If not, poo poo; it looks like this guy hacked up the harness more than I thought and I may have to swap the harnesses to get my '97 engine working PROPERLY.
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Jul 16, 2014 19:49
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The ignition coil is going to be 180° out and the cam/crank sensors will be different. Otherwise, the engine should just swap over. 95 used a Hall Effect sensor under the exhaust cam. 96+ used the sensor hanging off the intake cam. You can splice the harness or buy something from Magnus? to swap out the cam sensor without splicing. I hope that makes sense. Phone posting while on a call.
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Jul 17, 2014 22:11
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95 is OBDI and 96+ is OBDII. Does the 95 have the OBDII plug under the dash? I don't have a ton of experience with 2g cars.
BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Jul 17, 2014 |
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Jul 17, 2014 23:09
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Pretty sure the 95 is set up for OBDII and has the plug.
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Jul 18, 2014 00:13
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It is setup for OBDII and has the plug. I can drop a 96+ ECU in the car and only need to change the spark plug firing order.
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Jul 18, 2014 15:37
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Some of the plugs and sensors are different. Since I'm going to be using the '97 engine with all sensors/parts, and since I can apparently pull the harness without doing anything with the dash, I'm just going to pull and swap.
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Jul 18, 2014 23:46
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(cross-posting from my build thread) It looks like I've got some rubbing on the clutch fork (this is the transmission I won't be using, but attached to the engine I will be):   And it looks like my throwout bearing was on its way out:  Based on position, it looks like it would have to be the clutch it was rubbing on:  Here's the transmission I will be using for comparison:  Any thoughts as to why this rubbing might have been happening?
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Jul 19, 2014 01:00
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After doing some research on the webs, it looks like this might be because the fork/pivot ball might be out of adjustment, causing the fork to rub on the pressure plate?
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Jul 19, 2014 05:43
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Yeah. Just replace the fork and pivot ball. It'd about $40 for both parts. If you pop the fork off and look at the pivot ball, it's probably more oval than round. You only need to shim it up if you are machining the flywheel (which needs to be stepped properly). If you replace the flywheel/pressure plate/clutch while you are in there, you shouldn't have problems. Make sure you readjust the clutch pedal after replacing anything to make sure it isn't holding pressure against the pressure plate. Jack's Transmission did a YouTube video that explains the adjustment procedure and why it needs to be done. John Shepherd would also recommend replacing the dowel pins. Please make sure that the dustcover goes back on as well. It needs to be there to act as a spacer between the motor and transmission.
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Jul 19, 2014 14:53
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I've got the dust cover on this one, I'll make sure it gets included with the engine/transmission combo. I think I'm going to re-use the clutch fork, ball and such from the transmission I'll be using, they look to be in good shape. I'm swapping the master cylinder over, so adjustment will definitely have to happen anyway.
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Jul 19, 2014 19:59
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Question: All three of my transfer cases have a rubber seal that goes in the end around the output shaft. The only part that Napa appears to have for this is a metal one. Is this the correct part? It fits, but I'm concerned it's not the right part since it doesn't match ANY of my transfer cases. Also, got the engine/transmission installed yesterday no big deal.
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Jul 22, 2014 00:35
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http://www.jackstransmissions.com/products/transfer-case-output-shaft-oil-seal Either order it online or from Mitsu. Whenever you need a specific thing like that that isn't a common alternator/starter/belt/etc, just get it from the source, or get the wrong part 3x.
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Jul 22, 2014 01:47
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I've been driving my Talon around a bit lately and the transmission feels way clunkier than I remember. I'm hoping it's just the motor mounts which are original and shredded, so I bought a set of Drop Engineering mounts for a 1g AWD for $220 shipped. I could have gone the cheaper route and just bought poly inserts, but screw burning and digging 23 year old rubber out of beat up and rusted mounts when I can just swap them for brand new obnoxiously green ones. They should be here by this weekend. I plan on dropping my 14b and porting it so I can swap my 3" exhaust back on the car and doing the mounts at the same time. Then I want to book some time at RRE to get a proper tune and let them do a once over on the car to make sure I didn't gently caress anything up.
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Jul 23, 2014 04:47
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Okay, seriously. How the hell do you get the drat axle to separate from the intermediate shaft? I'm about to take it in to a shop and have someone else deal with it because gently caress this banging on the drat thing to try to pop it loose for hours.
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Jul 23, 2014 19:54
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Pry them apart with a crow bar.
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Jul 23, 2014 20:05
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Yeah, I tried that.
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Jul 23, 2014 20:25
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You just have to manhandle it. I usually put a pry bar between the joints and pop it back and forth quickly and it'll loosen up. There's a circlip in there that needs to pop free. I've never had to spend hours working on that before, but it can be a pain in the rear end.
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Jul 23, 2014 21:00
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I always unbolted the suspension arms and pulled the wheel out while the intermediate shaft was still attached to the AC bracket. Worked on both of my cars.
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Jul 23, 2014 21:06
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Sometimes a thin block of wood or something on the case will get you a better grip on the axle with the edge of the prybar and get the force directed closer in line with the axle.
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Jul 23, 2014 21:10
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My new engine mounts arrived today. They are STIFF. This should be fun. They should definitely help my shifting problem. Super high quality though with a nice coating and welds.  
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Jul 29, 2014 01:52
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Took the intermediate shaft to 13"'s shop and he got the fucker off in about 15 seconds with one of the shop tools. He did comment that it was "really loving on there" though, may not have been able to get it loose by hand. Next question. How in the gently caress do I get the shifter cables out? Mine are new and have solid (roller skate) bushings installed, so I want to re-use them. Ideally the solution involves me pulling them out in to the passenger compartment so I don't have to remove them from the shifter (mine's a short-throw that I'll be moving over) or try to pull of the retaining clips which are so far being loving impossible to remove.
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Jul 29, 2014 04:21
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Use a screwdriver to pry upwards on the tabs or a large set of vise grips. Working it up on each side a little bit each time makes it a lot easier. As far as getting the cables out, there is a plate at the firewall with a couple of bolts on it. You can undo that and pull the cables out from the inside on the car.
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Jul 29, 2014 12:34
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th vwls hv scpd posted:Use a screwdriver to pry upwards on the tabs or a large set of vise grips. Working it up on each side a little bit each time makes it a lot easier. As far as getting the cables out, there is a plate at the firewall with a couple of bolts on it. You can undo that and pull the cables out from the inside on the car. Yeah, found that in the manual. Since I'm moving the mount over so I don't have to bother with taking the shifter apart to move it I'll just pull the cables through instead of disconnecting them.
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Jul 30, 2014 18:21
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If you run into any problems, I might have photos from when I did a manual swap in an RS some years back.
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Jul 31, 2014 03:06
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th vwls hv scpd posted:If you run into any problems, I might have photos from when I did a manual swap in an RS some years back. Got 'em out last night. Now I just need to get the "control" harness pulled, and I'm ready to start getting stuff plugged in on the new car.
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Jul 31, 2014 23:07
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14 days until this year's DSM Shootout. Anyone from here going?
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Aug 1, 2014 14:20
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Could anyone tell me what steering wheel control options came on the 3/4g Eclipses? The rental cars I've been using while building my car have had them, and I really like the convenience; so I want to try getting something together once I'm able to drive my toy again.
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Aug 2, 2014 20:04
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Should $1200 be considered suspiciously low on a 96 eclipse that (I'm assuming) runs? I like the way those cars look, but I don't know anything about them. This is the ad listing and it's lacking useful details on its condition: http://shreveport.craigslist.org/cto/4710235177.html
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Oct 12, 2014 20:06
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For that price it is probably not a turbo car. It might not be a bad deal if you want an A - B car that gets OK mileage and looks decent. Just don't expect it to go fast cheaply.
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Oct 12, 2014 21:32
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Texted the guy who put the ad up and he said hes "listing it for a friend a few houses down" which I think is odd. He said I can come look at it monday, and I'll just try to be watchful in case hes trying to pull some sketchy poo poo. He also says a couple is coming back friday to buy it with cash.
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Oct 12, 2014 22:41
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Texted the guy who put the ad up and he said hes "listing it for a friend a few houses down" which I think is odd. He said I can come look at it monday, and I'll just try to be watchful in case hes trying to pull some sketchy poo poo. He also says a couple is coming back friday to buy it with cash. Not everyone is savvy enough to list something on Craigslist. If it is a non turbo car, the battery will be on the driver side. Turbocars are on the passenger side. Valve cover gaskets leak if installed incorrectly. Both motors are definitely interference motors, so make sure the timing belt has been done. If you have any questions, I'll try to answer them.
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Oct 12, 2014 23:28
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th vwls hv scpd posted:Not everyone is savvy enough to list something on Craigslist. If it is a non turbo car, the battery will be on the driver side. Turbocars are on the passenger side. Valve cover gaskets leak if installed incorrectly. Both motors are definitely interference motors, so make sure the timing belt has been done. If you have any questions, I'll try to answer them. Ok thanks. I kinda just assumed the worst since I don't know the seller or how trustworthy they are. Is it possible to tell if the belt was changed on an engine with a timing belt cover? If it isn't then I'll have to see if he has a receipt or something from getting it changed.
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Oct 13, 2014 00:07
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Ok thanks. I kinda just assumed the worst since I don't know the seller or how trustworthy they are. Is it possible to tell if the belt was changed on an engine with a timing belt cover? If it isn't then I'll have to see if he has a receipt or something from getting it changed. There is an inspection cover on the 420a (non-turbo) that is 1 - 8mm bolt I think. The turbo cars have 3 - 10mm bolts holding the top half of the cover on. Look to see if it is frayed or cracking. Don't be alarmed if it isn't perfectly centered on the gears. It's not uncommon for it to be a little off center.
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Oct 13, 2014 02:40
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